From fcbbc8fd545fb395e7f03c36d05f7c6a3b43527b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Jedr Blaszyk Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2024 08:06:19 +0200 Subject: [PATCH] Updates --- 404.html | 4 ++-- 404/index.html | 4 ++-- _gatsby/slices/_gatsby-scripts-1.html | 4 ++-- about/index.html | 4 ++-- balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/index.html | 11 ++++++----- bikepacking-along-oder-river/index.html | 4 ++-- bikepacking-in-provence-france/index.html | 4 ++-- bikepacking-in-sweden/index.html | 4 ++-- .../index.html | 4 ++-- chunk-map.json | 2 +- ...ntenegro-albania-index-mdx-4c7e36724a88b4f234d4.js | 2 ++ ...egro-albania-index-mdx-4c7e36724a88b4f234d4.js.map | 1 + cycling-in-london/index.html | 4 ++-- fly-in-hike-isle-of-wight/index.html | 4 ++-- .../index.html | 4 ++-- gravmageddon-2024-type-2-fun/index.html | 4 ++-- iceland-roadtrip/index.html | 4 ++-- index.html | 4 ++-- kattegat-loop-bikepacking/index.html | 4 ++-- norway-bikepacking-trondheim-to-bergen/index.html | 4 ++-- page-data/app-data.json | 2 +- .../page-data.json | 2 +- road-to-195/index.html | 4 ++-- rss.xml | 2 +- sitemap-0.xml | 2 +- sussex-coastal-marathon/index.html | 4 ++-- .../3d-printing-aerobar-armrest-riser/index.html | 4 ++-- tech-blog/elasticsearch-data-connectors/index.html | 4 ++-- tech-blog/exploring-apache-lucene-index/index.html | 4 ++-- tech-blog/exploring-apache-lucene-scale/index.html | 4 ++-- .../index.html | 4 ++-- .../featured-snippets-search-applications/index.html | 4 ++-- tech-blog/geometric-deep-learning-overview/index.html | 4 ++-- tech-blog/index.html | 4 ++-- .../nrtsearch-tutorial-website-search/index.html | 4 ++-- .../index.html | 4 ++-- tech-blog/rss.xml | 2 +- .../index.html | 4 ++-- through-the-lens/end-of-summer-in-madeira/index.html | 4 ++-- .../france-provence-bikepacking/index.html | 4 ++-- through-the-lens/iceland-4x4-roadtrip/index.html | 4 ++-- through-the-lens/index.html | 4 ++-- .../izery-mountains-bikepacking/index.html | 4 ++-- through-the-lens/mallorca-in-spring/index.html | 4 ++-- through-the-lens/norway-bikepacking/index.html | 4 ++-- through-the-lens/tenerife-pleasures/index.html | 4 ++-- tuscany-trail-bikepacking-in-italy/index.html | 4 ++-- warta-gravel-2024/index.html | 4 ++-- webpack-runtime-32f0271bb2f2b94f7dc4.js | 2 ++ webpack-runtime-32f0271bb2f2b94f7dc4.js.map | 1 + webpack.stats.json | 2 +- week-long-road-trip-provence/index.html | 4 ++-- work-bike-balance-in-calpe/index.html | 4 ++-- 53 files changed, 101 insertions(+), 94 deletions(-) create mode 100644 component---src-templates-blog-post-js-content-file-path-content-blog-balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania-index-mdx-4c7e36724a88b4f234d4.js create mode 100644 component---src-templates-blog-post-js-content-file-path-content-blog-balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania-index-mdx-4c7e36724a88b4f234d4.js.map create mode 100644 webpack-runtime-32f0271bb2f2b94f7dc4.js create mode 100644 webpack-runtime-32f0271bb2f2b94f7dc4.js.map diff --git a/404.html b/404.html index b385d138a..9e87ef514 100644 --- a/404.html +++ b/404.html @@ -92,6 +92,6 @@ - \ No newline at end of file + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/404/index.html b/404/index.html index fe530a1c6..45ede74dd 100644 --- a/404/index.html +++ b/404/index.html @@ -92,6 +92,6 @@ - \ No newline at end of file + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/_gatsby/slices/_gatsby-scripts-1.html b/_gatsby/slices/_gatsby-scripts-1.html index d1c11b65c..a4d6821bf 100644 --- a/_gatsby/slices/_gatsby-scripts-1.html +++ b/_gatsby/slices/_gatsby-scripts-1.html @@ -2,6 +2,6 @@ - \ No newline at end of file + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/about/index.html b/about/index.html index 0d968888a..828fae5b6 100644 --- a/about/index.html +++ b/about/index.html @@ -92,6 +92,6 @@ - \ No newline at end of file + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/index.html b/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/index.html index 08de3bace..a965b6170 100644 --- a/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/index.html +++ b/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/index.html @@ -91,7 +91,8 @@

The Route

The roads we cycled ranged from smooth tarmac along the coast to rugged gravel mountain paths, and eventually to unrideable muddy sections. Our route essentially made a big loop around Lake Shkodër. The elevation gains were significant, especially during the steep climbs in Montenegro and Albania. Some of the off-road sections were tough but well worth the effort, particularly in the Albanian Alps.

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I was especially fond of the wide tires on my gravel bike, which handled the rougher terrain flawlessly. The tubeless setup, combined with lower tire pressure, gave me extra grip and stability, which made all the difference on the more challenging off-road sections. It kept the ride comfortable, even in less-than-ideal conditions. Best of all, mine was the only bike that didn’t have a mechanical issue this year!

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I was especially fond of the wide tires on my gravel bike, which handled the rougher terrain flawlessly. The tubeless setup, combined with lower tire pressure, gave me extra grip and stability, which made all the difference on the challenging off-road sections.

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Best of all, mine was the only bike that didn’t have a mechanical issue this year!

Croatia

We started our trip in Dubrovnik, arriving at the airport with our bikes all packed up. To make things easier, we booked our final night’s accommodation near the airport, which turned out to be a smart move as we had our return flight very early in the morning. Our host kindly picked up all six of us, bikes included, from the airport and let us store our bike bags in the basement for the week, giving us a hassle-free start to the journey.

@@ -105,7 +106,7 @@

Lovcen National Park

The next morning, we set off from Kotor Bay, and it didn’t take long for the road to start climbing. The ascent from sea level to 1,400 meters was tough but well worth it, with incredible views of Kotor Bay fading behind us. As we climbed higher into Lovćen National Park, the landscape transformed into rocky cliffs and forests.

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The descent from the pass was amazing. A long, winding, paved mountain road led us down toward Virpazar, a small town by Lake Skadar. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side again, with thunderstorms in the forecast for the evening. So, for the second night in a row, we opted for an apartment.

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The descent from the pass was amazing. A long, winding, paved mountain road led us down toward Virpazar, a small town by Lake Shkodër. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side again, with thunderstorms in the forecast for the evening. So, for the second night in a row, we opted for an apartment.

In Virpazar, we got a nice surprise — a local restaurant where the famous Polish chef Robert Makłowicz had filmed his show. Naturally, we had to try the food, and it didn’t disappoint!

Bar

On Day 3, we made our way toward Bar, starting with a climb out of Virpazar. The route took us through mountain passes before descending toward Bar city on the coast. From there we followed the coast to the Albanian border.

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The final push up to the pass was challenging, but the views at the top were stunning. At 1650 meters, we layered up in nearly all the clothes we had — it was freezing. Luckily, there was a neat hotel-restaurant at the top where we grabbed some food before starting the long descent toward Koplik.

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The downhill ride was about 40 kilometers, and it was one of the most rewarding parts of the entire trip. The views of Lake Shkoder and the surrounding mountains were breathtaking as we descended. We had to be careful, though, because at times the road was occupied by pigs wandering freely! As we got closer to the lake, the sun finally warmed us up, and the contrast between the towering mountains and the Shkodër lake below was unforgettable.

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The downhill ride was about 40 kilometers, and it was one of the most rewarding parts of the entire trip. The views of Lake Shkodër and the surrounding mountains were breathtaking as we descended. We had to be careful, though, because at times the road was occupied by pigs wandering freely! As we got closer to the lake, the sun finally warmed us up, and the contrast between the towering mountains and the Shkodër lake below was unforgettable.

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From there, we crossed back into Montenegro, and headed to Podgorica.

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\ No newline at end of file diff --git a/component---src-templates-blog-post-js-content-file-path-content-blog-balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania-index-mdx-4c7e36724a88b4f234d4.js b/component---src-templates-blog-post-js-content-file-path-content-blog-balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania-index-mdx-4c7e36724a88b4f234d4.js new file mode 100644 index 000000000..690184dd3 --- /dev/null +++ b/component---src-templates-blog-post-js-content-file-path-content-blog-balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania-index-mdx-4c7e36724a88b4f234d4.js @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +(self.webpackChunkj_blaszyk_me=self.webpackChunkj_blaszyk_me||[]).push([[456],{1929:function(e,t,a){"use strict";a.r(t),a.d(t,{default:function(){return H}});var n=a(7387),r=a(8453),l=a(6540);function o(e){const t=Object.assign({ul:"ul",li:"li",a:"a",p:"p",h2:"h2",span:"span",h3:"h3",blockquote:"blockquote",strong:"strong"},(0,r.R)(),e.components),{MakeItBigContainer:a,ImageComponent:n,BikepackingDetails:o,FullWidthBackgroundContainer:i,LazyIframe:m,Container:c,Column:d,ThreePhotosContainer:h}=t;return o||s("BikepackingDetails",!0),d||s("Column",!0),c||s("Container",!0),i||s("FullWidthBackgroundContainer",!0),n||s("ImageComponent",!0),m||s("LazyIframe",!0),a||s("MakeItBigContainer",!0),h||s("ThreePhotosContainer",!0),l.createElement(l.Fragment,null,l.createElement(t.ul,null,"\n",l.createElement(t.li,null,l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#the-route"},"The Route")),"\n",l.createElement(t.li,null,l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#montenegro"},"Montenegro")),"\n",l.createElement(t.li,null,l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#albania"},"Albania")),"\n"),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[39]})),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"This was my second time biking through the Balkans. Seven years ago, just before starting university, I cycled 1200 km from Vienna to Bar in Montenegro. That trip left me with unforgettable memories, so I was eager to return and explore this beautiful region again."),"\n",l.createElement(t.h2,{id:"bikepacking-in-the-balkans",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#bikepacking-in-the-balkans","aria-label":"bikepacking in the balkans permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Bikepacking in the Balkans"),"\n",l.createElement(o,{logo:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.logo,title:"The Balkans",distance:"580km",elevation:"8800m",time:"7 days",date:"Sep 2024"}),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"For this trip, we followed a route inspired by the ",l.createElement(t.a,{href:"https://bikepacking.com/plog/balkans-bikepacking-video/",target:"_blank",rel:"nofollow noopener noreferrer"},"The Balkans")," post on bikepacking.com, which provided a great foundation. However, we made a few changes to suit our plans and interests, spending more time exploring Kotor Bay and deciding not to cycle through Bosnia."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The journey took us through Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania, covering a mix of coastal roads, steep mountain climbs, and remote trails. Late September weather added an unpredictable element to the trip, with thunderstorms frequently lighting up the skies and sudden rain showers. Despite the occasional rain, the Balkans delivered stunning views at every turn, making the challenge more than worth it."),"\n",l.createElement(t.h2,{id:"the-route",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#the-route","aria-label":"the route permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"The Route"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The roads we cycled ranged from smooth tarmac along the coast to rugged gravel mountain paths, and eventually to unrideable muddy sections. Our route essentially made a big loop around ",l.createElement(t.a,{href:"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Skadar",target:"_blank",rel:"nofollow noopener noreferrer"},"Lake Shkodër"),". The elevation gains were significant, especially during the steep climbs in Montenegro and Albania. Some of the off-road sections were tough but well worth the effort, particularly in the Albanian Alps."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"I was especially fond of the wide tires on my gravel bike, which handled the rougher terrain flawlessly. The tubeless setup, combined with lower tire pressure, gave me extra grip and stability, which made all the difference on the challenging off-road sections."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"Best of all, mine was the only bike that didn’t have a mechanical issue this year!"),"\n",l.createElement(i,null,l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(m,{height:"800px"},l.createElement("iframe",{src:"https://www.komoot.com/tour/1824466978/embed?profile=1",width:"1024",height:"800",frameborder:"0",scrolling:"no",loading:"lazy",style:{margin:0}})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.h2,{id:"croatia",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#croatia","aria-label":"croatia permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Croatia"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"We started our trip in Dubrovnik, arriving at the airport with our bikes all packed up. To make things easier, we booked our final night’s accommodation near the airport, which turned out to be a smart move as we had our return flight very early in the morning. Our host kindly picked up all six of us, bikes included, from the airport and let us store our bike bags in the basement for the week, giving us a hassle-free start to the journey."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[0]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[1]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The weather on the first day was surprisingly nice, with clear skies and warm temperatures. We assembled our bikes by the apartment’s pool and then set off toward the Montenegro border. But before long, a heavy thunderstorm caught up with us…"),"\n",l.createElement(t.h2,{id:"montenegro",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#montenegro","aria-label":"montenegro permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Montenegro"),"\n",l.createElement(t.h3,{id:"kotor-bay",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#kotor-bay","aria-label":"kotor bay permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Kotor Bay"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"After assembling our bikes in Dubrovnik, we set off along the coast, crossing into Montenegro. The weather was pleasant at first, but as we neared Kotor, dark clouds began to gather. By nightfall, lightning was flashing across the sky."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"We had planned to camp that night, but with the storm closing in, we opted for an apartment in Bijela instead. At just 10 euros per person, it was almost the same price as camping, so it felt like a good deal."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[3],isRow:!0})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[4],isRow:!0}))),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[5],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[2]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[6]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.h3,{id:"lovcen-national-park",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#lovcen-national-park","aria-label":"lovcen national park permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Lovcen National Park"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The next morning, we set off from Kotor Bay, and it didn’t take long for the road to start climbing. The ascent from sea level to 1,400 meters was tough but well worth it, with incredible views of Kotor Bay fading behind us. As we climbed higher into Lovćen National Park, the landscape transformed into rocky cliffs and forests."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[10],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[8],isRow:!0})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[7],isRow:!0}))),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[9]})),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The descent from the pass was amazing. A long, winding, paved mountain road led us down toward Virpazar, a small town by Lake Shkodër. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side again, with thunderstorms in the forecast for the evening. So, for the second night in a row, we opted for an apartment."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"In Virpazar, we got a nice surprise — a local restaurant where the famous Polish chef ",l.createElement(t.a,{href:"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOHcpsE8NWQ",target:"_blank",rel:"nofollow noopener noreferrer"},"Robert Makłowicz had filmed his show"),". Naturally, we had to try the food, and it didn’t disappoint!"),"\n",l.createElement(t.h3,{id:"bar",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#bar","aria-label":"bar permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Bar"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"On Day 3, we made our way toward Bar, starting with a climb out of Virpazar. The route took us through mountain passes before descending toward Bar city on the coast. From there we followed the coast to the Albanian border."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(h,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[15],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[12],noPadding:!0}),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[14],isRow:!0})),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[11]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[13]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.h2,{id:"albania",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#albania","aria-label":"albania permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Albania"),"\n",l.createElement(t.h3,{id:"shkodër",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#shkod%C3%ABr","aria-label":"shkodër permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Shkodër"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The moment we entered Albania, we noticed how chaotic the traffic was, with cars, bikes, and pedestrians all moving in what seemed like organized chaos. It had an almost Asian vibe, with the roads full of people going in every direction. Stray dogs roamed the streets, and the Mercedes seemed to be the car of choice for just about everyone, whether brand new or old."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"Despite the bustling atmosphere, the locals were incredibly welcoming. Children waved and offered high-fives as we passed by on our bikes, adding a sense of warmth. The weather, however, remained unpredictable, with thunderstorms once again in the forecast. We ended up finding a full 120m² villa right in the heart of downtown for just 10 euros per person, complete with a bottle of raki as a welcome gift. It was a perfect place to rest after the long day on the road."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[16],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[17]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[18]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.h3,{id:"albanian-alps-shkodër-to-nderlysaj",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#albanian-alps-shkod%C3%ABr-to-nderlysaj","aria-label":"albanian alps shkodër to nderlysaj permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Albanian Alps: Shkodër to Nderlysaj"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The part of our journey took us into the heart of the Albanian Alps, also known as ",l.createElement(t.a,{href:"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accursed_Mountains",target:"_blank",rel:"nofollow noopener noreferrer"},"the Accursed Mountains"),". These mountains are one of the last unexplored regions of Europe, and it certainly felt that way as we ventured deeper into the rocky landscape. The route from Shkodër to Theth was the most challanging part of the trip."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"We started with a scenic paved path along a canyon, with towering mountains on either side. Goats and cows wandered the road, adding to the sense that we were far from civilization. After about 20 kilometers, the smooth tarmac turned into gravel, and with all the recent rain, the trail was full of mud and water. The climb was steep, with breathtaking views behind us, but the rough conditions made it slow going."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(h,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[19],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[20],noPadding:!0}),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[21],isRow:!0})),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[22]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[23]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"At around 500 meters of elevation, we reached the tiny village of Kir, where there was little more than a few excavators and a ",l.createElement(t.a,{href:"https://maps.app.goo.gl/B1ynt27vfQfi38vU7",target:"_blank",rel:"nofollow noopener noreferrer"},"small café")," housed in a shed. The café offered only soft drinks and Turkish coffee. Stray dogs roamed around the café. After a quick stop, we pushed on, but the nice gravel soon turned into a rocky and muddy mountain road. At one point, the mud became so thick that we had to walk our bikes through the mess — there was no way to ride it."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[24],isRow:!0})),l.createElement(d,{flex:2.25},l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[25],isRow:!0}))),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[27]})),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"Eventually, we reached the mountain pass at 1100 meters. Thankfully, the downhill section wasn’t muddy, but it was rocky and challenging. Some of the group had mechanical issues, with flat tires causing delays. As we descended into the valley, it was getting dark and cold, and to make things even more interesting, we didn’t have any cellural signal."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,{flex:1.1115},l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[26],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[28]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[29]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"We stopped at a small place called ",l.createElement(t.a,{href:"https://maps.app.goo.gl/aD5imztnVgNxx9Dc9",target:"_blank",rel:"nofollow noopener noreferrer"},"Kafe Skollaj"),", which, despite calling itself a restaurant on Google Maps, was really just a pub. When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine! After clearing that up, we got our cold drinks, which gave us a much-needed boost for the final 8 kilometers of flatter gravel toward Nderlysaj."),"\n",l.createElement(t.blockquote,null,"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine!"),"\n"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"We arrived at a guesthouse run by a local family, who were incredibly welcoming. They cooked us a huge dinner, and after a long, cold day, it was exactly what we needed. The owner proudly served us his homemade walnut raki, comparing it to a “Mercedes” among other raki. It was a great way to end the day, even though the heating wasn’t working, and it was freezing cold at night. Luckily, I had my 0°C sleeping bag with me."),"\n",l.createElement(t.h3,{id:"albanian-alps-theth-to-koplik",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#albanian-alps-theth-to-koplik","aria-label":"albanian alps theth to koplik permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Albanian Alps: Theth to Koplik"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The next morning greeted us with cold temperatures, but for the first time on the trip, we had clear skies and sunshine. After a breakfast prepared by our hosts, we set out from Nderlysaj toward Theth, with the plan to climb up to the mountain pass at 1650 meters."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[32],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[30]})),l.createElement(d,{flex:2.25},l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[31]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"Starting in the valley at around 500 meters elevation, we faced a grueling climb of over 1100 meters. Thankfully, this section of road had been freshly paved in 2022, which made the climb a lot more manageable. The smooth tarmac was a welcome relief after the rough, muddy trails we had faced the day before. As we rode higher, we reached Theth at 800 meters, a somewhat popular tourist spot with waterfalls and hiking trails. Here, we stopped at a small grocery store to resupply and grabbed a much-needed coffee."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,{flex:1.1115},l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[33],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[35]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[34]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The final push up to the pass was challenging, but the views at the top were stunning. At 1650 meters, we layered up in nearly all the clothes we had — it was freezing. Luckily, there was a neat hotel-restaurant at the top where we grabbed some food before starting the long descent toward Koplik."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[37],isRow:!0})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[38],isRow:!0}))),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[36]})),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The downhill ride was about 40 kilometers, and it was one of the most rewarding parts of the entire trip. The views of Lake Shkodër and the surrounding mountains were breathtaking as we descended. We had to be careful, though, because at times the road was occupied by pigs wandering freely! As we got closer to the lake, the sun finally warmed us up, and the contrast between the towering mountains and the Shkodër lake below was unforgettable."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[39],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[40],isRow:!0})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[41],isRow:!0}))),l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[42]})),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"From there, we crossed back into Montenegro, and headed to Podgorica."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[43]})),"\n",l.createElement(t.h2,{id:"heading-back-to-dubrovnik",style:{position:"relative"}},l.createElement(t.a,{href:"#heading-back-to-dubrovnik","aria-label":"heading back to dubrovnik permalink",className:"anchor before"},l.createElement(t.span,{dangerouslySetInnerHTML:{__html:''}})),"Heading back to Dubrovnik"),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"After passing through Podgorica, we camped for the night in a vineyard near the capital. This was the first time (long overdue!) that we decided to use our tents on the trip. The ",l.createElement(t.a,{href:"https://www.instagram.com/vino_jokas/",target:"_blank",rel:"nofollow noopener noreferrer"},"campsite")," was tucked between grapevines, and after a long day of riding, it felt great to finally sleep under the stars. We ended the evening with a delicious homemade lasagna and local wine, all prepared by the owner."),"\n",l.createElement(a,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[46],isRow:!0}),l.createElement(c,null,l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[45]})),l.createElement(d,null,l.createElement(n,{image:e.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[44]})))),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The next morning, we packed up early and aimed for the Bosnian border, but the mountainous route ahead wasn’t as straightforward as it looked on the map. We passed through Danilovgrad and rode into a stretch of empty mountain roads. While the scenery was stunning, the complete lack of stores, or cafés made resupplying a real challenge. For nearly 80 kilometers, we cycled through isolated mountain passes without a single stop for water or food."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"At one point, the road marked on our map turned into an unrideable rocky path. It was nearly impossible to push forward, with heavy vegetation and rocks blocking our way. ",l.createElement(t.strong,null,"If you’re following this route, definitely avoid this 10 km stretch (it starts at 465 km on the Komoot route)!")," After plenty of swearing and struggling, we finally reached the village of Grahovo, where we stopped for a much-needed meal."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"By this point, the group was feeling pretty wiped out, especially after a few days of relying mostly on jelly beans for energy. To make matters worse, we discovered that the border crossing we’d planned to use was for locals only. That meant we would have to take the main road at night, with big trucks passing by and an extra 500 meters of elevation to climb."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"With everyone exhausted, we decided to change our plans. Instead of pushing on to Bosnia, we opted for a 20-kilometer descent down to Kotor Bay. It was a much-needed break from climbing, and by the time we reached our accommodation, we were rewarded with beautiful views of the lake."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"The next day, we cycled along the coast back into Croatia, where we encountered heavy traffic at the border crossing. Luckily, it was a short day of just 50 kilometers. We returned to our final accommodation near Dubrovnik airport, where packed the bikes before our early morning flight."),"\n",l.createElement(t.p,null,"With time to spare, we celebrated the end of our journey with a quick taxi ride into Dubrovnik to explore the city. 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classic @jsx React.createElement @jsxFrag React.Fragment*/\nimport {useMDXComponents as _provideComponents} from \"@mdx-js/react\";\nimport React from \"react\";\nfunction _createMdxContent(props) {\n const _components = Object.assign({\n ul: \"ul\",\n li: \"li\",\n a: \"a\",\n p: \"p\",\n h2: \"h2\",\n span: \"span\",\n h3: \"h3\",\n blockquote: \"blockquote\",\n strong: \"strong\"\n }, _provideComponents(), props.components), {MakeItBigContainer, ImageComponent, BikepackingDetails, FullWidthBackgroundContainer, LazyIframe, Container, Column, ThreePhotosContainer} = _components;\n if (!BikepackingDetails) _missingMdxReference(\"BikepackingDetails\", true);\n if (!Column) _missingMdxReference(\"Column\", true);\n if (!Container) _missingMdxReference(\"Container\", true);\n if (!FullWidthBackgroundContainer) _missingMdxReference(\"FullWidthBackgroundContainer\", true);\n if (!ImageComponent) _missingMdxReference(\"ImageComponent\", true);\n if (!LazyIframe) _missingMdxReference(\"LazyIframe\", true);\n if (!MakeItBigContainer) _missingMdxReference(\"MakeItBigContainer\", true);\n if (!ThreePhotosContainer) _missingMdxReference(\"ThreePhotosContainer\", true);\n return React.createElement(React.Fragment, null, React.createElement(_components.ul, null, \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.li, null, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#the-route\"\n }, \"The Route\")), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.li, null, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#montenegro\"\n }, \"Montenegro\")), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.li, null, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#albania\"\n }, \"Albania\")), \"\\n\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[39]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"This was my second time biking through the Balkans. Seven years ago, just before starting university, I cycled 1200 km from Vienna to Bar in Montenegro. That trip left me with unforgettable memories, so I was eager to return and explore this beautiful region again.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h2, {\n id: \"bikepacking-in-the-balkans\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#bikepacking-in-the-balkans\",\n \"aria-label\": \"bikepacking in the balkans permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Bikepacking in the Balkans\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(BikepackingDetails, {\n logo: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.logo,\n title: 'The Balkans',\n distance: '580km',\n elevation: '8800m',\n time: '7 days',\n date: 'Sep 2024'\n }), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"For this trip, we followed a route inspired by the \", React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"https://bikepacking.com/plog/balkans-bikepacking-video/\",\n target: \"_blank\",\n rel: \"nofollow noopener noreferrer\"\n }, \"The Balkans\"), \" post on bikepacking.com, which provided a great foundation. However, we made a few changes to suit our plans and interests, spending more time exploring Kotor Bay and deciding not to cycle through Bosnia.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The journey took us through Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania, covering a mix of coastal roads, steep mountain climbs, and remote trails. Late September weather added an unpredictable element to the trip, with thunderstorms frequently lighting up the skies and sudden rain showers. Despite the occasional rain, the Balkans delivered stunning views at every turn, making the challenge more than worth it.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h2, {\n id: \"the-route\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#the-route\",\n \"aria-label\": \"the route permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"The Route\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The roads we cycled ranged from smooth tarmac along the coast to rugged gravel mountain paths, and eventually to unrideable muddy sections. Our route essentially made a big loop around \", React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Skadar\",\n target: \"_blank\",\n rel: \"nofollow noopener noreferrer\"\n }, \"Lake Shkodër\"), \". The elevation gains were significant, especially during the steep climbs in Montenegro and Albania. Some of the off-road sections were tough but well worth the effort, particularly in the Albanian Alps.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"I was especially fond of the wide tires on my gravel bike, which handled the rougher terrain flawlessly. The tubeless setup, combined with lower tire pressure, gave me extra grip and stability, which made all the difference on the challenging off-road sections.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"Best of all, mine was the only bike that didn’t have a mechanical issue this year!\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(FullWidthBackgroundContainer, null, React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(LazyIframe, {\n height: \"800px\"\n }, React.createElement(\"iframe\", {\n src: \"https://www.komoot.com/tour/1824466978/embed?profile=1\",\n width: \"1024\",\n height: \"800\",\n frameborder: \"0\",\n scrolling: \"no\",\n loading: \"lazy\",\n style: {\n margin: 0\n }\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h2, {\n id: \"croatia\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#croatia\",\n \"aria-label\": \"croatia permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Croatia\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"We started our trip in Dubrovnik, arriving at the airport with our bikes all packed up. To make things easier, we booked our final night’s accommodation near the airport, which turned out to be a smart move as we had our return flight very early in the morning. Our host kindly picked up all six of us, bikes included, from the airport and let us store our bike bags in the basement for the week, giving us a hassle-free start to the journey.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[0]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[1]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The weather on the first day was surprisingly nice, with clear skies and warm temperatures. We assembled our bikes by the apartment’s pool and then set off toward the Montenegro border. But before long, a heavy thunderstorm caught up with us…\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h2, {\n id: \"montenegro\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#montenegro\",\n \"aria-label\": \"montenegro permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Montenegro\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h3, {\n id: \"kotor-bay\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#kotor-bay\",\n \"aria-label\": \"kotor bay permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Kotor Bay\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"After assembling our bikes in Dubrovnik, we set off along the coast, crossing into Montenegro. The weather was pleasant at first, but as we neared Kotor, dark clouds began to gather. By nightfall, lightning was flashing across the sky.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"We had planned to camp that night, but with the storm closing in, we opted for an apartment in Bijela instead. At just 10 euros per person, it was almost the same price as camping, so it felt like a good deal.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[3],\n isRow: true\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[4],\n isRow: true\n }))), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[5],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[2]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[6]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h3, {\n id: \"lovcen-national-park\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#lovcen-national-park\",\n \"aria-label\": \"lovcen national park permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Lovcen National Park\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The next morning, we set off from Kotor Bay, and it didn’t take long for the road to start climbing. The ascent from sea level to 1,400 meters was tough but well worth it, with incredible views of Kotor Bay fading behind us. As we climbed higher into Lovćen National Park, the landscape transformed into rocky cliffs and forests.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[10],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[8],\n isRow: true\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[7],\n isRow: true\n }))), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[9]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The descent from the pass was amazing. A long, winding, paved mountain road led us down toward Virpazar, a small town by Lake Shkodër. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side again, with thunderstorms in the forecast for the evening. So, for the second night in a row, we opted for an apartment.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"In Virpazar, we got a nice surprise — a local restaurant where the famous Polish chef \", React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOHcpsE8NWQ\",\n target: \"_blank\",\n rel: \"nofollow noopener noreferrer\"\n }, \"Robert Makłowicz had filmed his show\"), \". Naturally, we had to try the food, and it didn’t disappoint!\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h3, {\n id: \"bar\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#bar\",\n \"aria-label\": \"bar permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Bar\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"On Day 3, we made our way toward Bar, starting with a climb out of Virpazar. The route took us through mountain passes before descending toward Bar city on the coast. From there we followed the coast to the Albanian border.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ThreePhotosContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[15],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[12],\n noPadding: true\n }), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[14],\n isRow: true\n })), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[11]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[13]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h2, {\n id: \"albania\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#albania\",\n \"aria-label\": \"albania permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Albania\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h3, {\n id: \"shkodër\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#shkod%C3%ABr\",\n \"aria-label\": \"shkodër permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Shkodër\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The moment we entered Albania, we noticed how chaotic the traffic was, with cars, bikes, and pedestrians all moving in what seemed like organized chaos. It had an almost Asian vibe, with the roads full of people going in every direction. Stray dogs roamed the streets, and the Mercedes seemed to be the car of choice for just about everyone, whether brand new or old.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"Despite the bustling atmosphere, the locals were incredibly welcoming. Children waved and offered high-fives as we passed by on our bikes, adding a sense of warmth. The weather, however, remained unpredictable, with thunderstorms once again in the forecast. We ended up finding a full 120m² villa right in the heart of downtown for just 10 euros per person, complete with a bottle of raki as a welcome gift. It was a perfect place to rest after the long day on the road.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[16],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[17]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[18]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h3, {\n id: \"albanian-alps-shkodër-to-nderlysaj\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#albanian-alps-shkod%C3%ABr-to-nderlysaj\",\n \"aria-label\": \"albanian alps shkodër to nderlysaj permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Albanian Alps: Shkodër to Nderlysaj\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The part of our journey took us into the heart of the Albanian Alps, also known as \", React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accursed_Mountains\",\n target: \"_blank\",\n rel: \"nofollow noopener noreferrer\"\n }, \"the Accursed Mountains\"), \". These mountains are one of the last unexplored regions of Europe, and it certainly felt that way as we ventured deeper into the rocky landscape. The route from Shkodër to Theth was the most challanging part of the trip.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"We started with a scenic paved path along a canyon, with towering mountains on either side. Goats and cows wandered the road, adding to the sense that we were far from civilization. After about 20 kilometers, the smooth tarmac turned into gravel, and with all the recent rain, the trail was full of mud and water. The climb was steep, with breathtaking views behind us, but the rough conditions made it slow going.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ThreePhotosContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[19],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[20],\n noPadding: true\n }), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[21],\n isRow: true\n })), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[22]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[23]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"At around 500 meters of elevation, we reached the tiny village of Kir, where there was little more than a few excavators and a \", React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"https://maps.app.goo.gl/B1ynt27vfQfi38vU7\",\n target: \"_blank\",\n rel: \"nofollow noopener noreferrer\"\n }, \"small café\"), \" housed in a shed. The café offered only soft drinks and Turkish coffee. Stray dogs roamed around the café. After a quick stop, we pushed on, but the nice gravel soon turned into a rocky and muddy mountain road. At one point, the mud became so thick that we had to walk our bikes through the mess — there was no way to ride it.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[24],\n isRow: true\n })), React.createElement(Column, {\n flex: 2.25\n }, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[25],\n isRow: true\n }))), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[27]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"Eventually, we reached the mountain pass at 1100 meters. Thankfully, the downhill section wasn’t muddy, but it was rocky and challenging. Some of the group had mechanical issues, with flat tires causing delays. As we descended into the valley, it was getting dark and cold, and to make things even more interesting, we didn’t have any cellural signal.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, {\n flex: 1.1115\n }, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[26],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[28]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[29]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"We stopped at a small place called \", React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"https://maps.app.goo.gl/aD5imztnVgNxx9Dc9\",\n target: \"_blank\",\n rel: \"nofollow noopener noreferrer\"\n }, \"Kafe Skollaj\"), \", which, despite calling itself a restaurant on Google Maps, was really just a pub. When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine! After clearing that up, we got our cold drinks, which gave us a much-needed boost for the final 8 kilometers of flatter gravel toward Nderlysaj.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.blockquote, null, \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine!\"), \"\\n\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"We arrived at a guesthouse run by a local family, who were incredibly welcoming. They cooked us a huge dinner, and after a long, cold day, it was exactly what we needed. The owner proudly served us his homemade walnut raki, comparing it to a “Mercedes” among other raki. It was a great way to end the day, even though the heating wasn’t working, and it was freezing cold at night. Luckily, I had my 0°C sleeping bag with me.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h3, {\n id: \"albanian-alps-theth-to-koplik\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#albanian-alps-theth-to-koplik\",\n \"aria-label\": \"albanian alps theth to koplik permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Albanian Alps: Theth to Koplik\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The next morning greeted us with cold temperatures, but for the first time on the trip, we had clear skies and sunshine. After a breakfast prepared by our hosts, we set out from Nderlysaj toward Theth, with the plan to climb up to the mountain pass at 1650 meters.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[32],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[30]\n })), React.createElement(Column, {\n flex: 2.25\n }, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[31]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"Starting in the valley at around 500 meters elevation, we faced a grueling climb of over 1100 meters. Thankfully, this section of road had been freshly paved in 2022, which made the climb a lot more manageable. The smooth tarmac was a welcome relief after the rough, muddy trails we had faced the day before. As we rode higher, we reached Theth at 800 meters, a somewhat popular tourist spot with waterfalls and hiking trails. Here, we stopped at a small grocery store to resupply and grabbed a much-needed coffee.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, {\n flex: 1.1115\n }, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[33],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[35]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[34]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The final push up to the pass was challenging, but the views at the top were stunning. At 1650 meters, we layered up in nearly all the clothes we had — it was freezing. Luckily, there was a neat hotel-restaurant at the top where we grabbed some food before starting the long descent toward Koplik.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[37],\n isRow: true\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[38],\n isRow: true\n }))), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[36]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The downhill ride was about 40 kilometers, and it was one of the most rewarding parts of the entire trip. The views of Lake Shkodër and the surrounding mountains were breathtaking as we descended. We had to be careful, though, because at times the road was occupied by pigs wandering freely! As we got closer to the lake, the sun finally warmed us up, and the contrast between the towering mountains and the Shkodër lake below was unforgettable.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[39],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[40],\n isRow: true\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[41],\n isRow: true\n }))), React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[42]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"From there, we crossed back into Montenegro, and headed to Podgorica.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[43]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h2, {\n id: \"heading-back-to-dubrovnik\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#heading-back-to-dubrovnik\",\n \"aria-label\": \"heading back to dubrovnik permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Heading back to Dubrovnik\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"After passing through Podgorica, we camped for the night in a vineyard near the capital. This was the first time (long overdue!) that we decided to use our tents on the trip. The \", React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"https://www.instagram.com/vino_jokas/\",\n target: \"_blank\",\n rel: \"nofollow noopener noreferrer\"\n }, \"campsite\"), \" was tucked between grapevines, and after a long day of riding, it felt great to finally sleep under the stars. We ended the evening with a delicious homemade lasagna and local wine, all prepared by the owner.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[46],\n isRow: true\n }), React.createElement(Container, null, React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[45]\n })), React.createElement(Column, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[44]\n })))), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The next morning, we packed up early and aimed for the Bosnian border, but the mountainous route ahead wasn’t as straightforward as it looked on the map. We passed through Danilovgrad and rode into a stretch of empty mountain roads. While the scenery was stunning, the complete lack of stores, or cafés made resupplying a real challenge. For nearly 80 kilometers, we cycled through isolated mountain passes without a single stop for water or food.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"At one point, the road marked on our map turned into an unrideable rocky path. It was nearly impossible to push forward, with heavy vegetation and rocks blocking our way. \", React.createElement(_components.strong, null, \"If you’re following this route, definitely avoid this 10 km stretch (it starts at 465 km on the Komoot route)!\"), \" After plenty of swearing and struggling, we finally reached the village of Grahovo, where we stopped for a much-needed meal.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"By this point, the group was feeling pretty wiped out, especially after a few days of relying mostly on jelly beans for energy. To make matters worse, we discovered that the border crossing we’d planned to use was for locals only. That meant we would have to take the main road at night, with big trucks passing by and an extra 500 meters of elevation to climb.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"With everyone exhausted, we decided to change our plans. Instead of pushing on to Bosnia, we opted for a 20-kilometer descent down to Kotor Bay. It was a much-needed break from climbing, and by the time we reached our accommodation, we were rewarded with beautiful views of the lake.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"The next day, we cycled along the coast back into Croatia, where we encountered heavy traffic at the border crossing. Luckily, it was a short day of just 50 kilometers. We returned to our final accommodation near Dubrovnik airport, where packed the bikes before our early morning flight.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.p, null, \"With time to spare, we celebrated the end of our journey with a quick taxi ride into Dubrovnik to explore the city. It was the perfect way to wrap up our Balkan adventure.\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(_components.h2, {\n id: \"our-rigs\",\n style: {\n position: \"relative\"\n }\n }, React.createElement(_components.a, {\n href: \"#our-rigs\",\n \"aria-label\": \"our rigs permalink\",\n className: \"anchor before\"\n }, React.createElement(_components.span, {\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: \"\"\n }\n })), \"Our Rigs\"), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[47]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[48]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[49]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[50]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[51]\n })), \"\\n\", React.createElement(MakeItBigContainer, null, React.createElement(ImageComponent, {\n image: props.data.mdx.frontmatter.images[52]\n })));\n}\nfunction MDXContent(props = {}) {\n const {wrapper: MDXLayout} = Object.assign({}, _provideComponents(), props.components);\n return MDXLayout ? React.createElement(MDXLayout, props, React.createElement(_createMdxContent, props)) : _createMdxContent(props);\n}\nexport default MDXContent;\nfunction _missingMdxReference(id, component) {\n throw new Error(\"Expected \" + (component ? \"component\" : \"object\") + \" `\" + id + \"` to be defined: you likely forgot to import, pass, or provide it.\");\n}\n","import GATSBY_COMPILED_MDX from \"/Users/jedr/personal-blog/content/blog/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/index.mdx\";\nimport React from 'react';\nimport {Link, graphql} from 'gatsby';\nimport get from 'lodash/get';\nimport {MDXProvider} from '@mdx-js/react';\nimport {BlockMath, InlineMath} from 'react-katex';\nimport {getSrc} from 'gatsby-plugin-image';\nimport '../fonts/fonts-post.css';\nimport Bio from '../components/Bio';\nimport Layout from '../components/Layout';\nimport SEO from '../components/SEO';\nimport ImageGallery from '../components/ImageGallery';\nimport ImageComponent from '../components/ImageComponent';\nimport LazyIframe from '../components/LazyIframe';\nimport LazyStravaContainer from '../components/LazyStravaContainer';\nimport TableOfContents from '../components/TableOfContents';\nimport Comments from '../components/Comments';\nimport {BikepackingDetails} from '../components/BikepackingDetails';\nimport {Container, Column, MakeItBigContainer, ThreePhotosContainer, FullWidthBackgroundContainer} from '../components/layout/Container';\nimport {formatPostDate, formatReadingTime, formatNumberOfPhotos} from '../utils/helpers';\nimport {rhythm, scale} from '../utils/typography';\nimport 'katex/dist/katex.min.css';\nimport './blog-post.css';\nconst shortcodes = {\n Link,\n ImageGallery,\n BlockMath,\n InlineMath,\n ImageComponent,\n Container,\n Column,\n MakeItBigContainer,\n FullWidthBackgroundContainer,\n ThreePhotosContainer,\n LazyIframe,\n LazyStravaContainer,\n BikepackingDetails\n};\nclass BlogPostTemplate extends React.Component {\n render() {\n const {children} = this.props;\n const post = this.props.data.mdx;\n const siteTitle = get(this.props, 'data.site.siteMetadata.title');\n const siteUrl = get(this.props, 'data.site.siteMetadata.siteUrl');\n let {previous, next} = this.props.pageContext;\n const ogimage = post.frontmatter.ogimage;\n const ogImagePath = ogimage && getSrc(ogimage);\n const structuredData = {\n '@context': 'https://schema.org',\n '@type': 'BlogPosting',\n headline: post.frontmatter.title,\n image: post.frontmatter.images && post.frontmatter.images.map(image => ({\n '@type': 'ImageObject',\n contentUrl: `${siteUrl}${getSrc(image)}`,\n creator: {\n '@type': 'Person',\n name: 'Jedr Blaszyk'\n }\n })),\n datePublished: post.frontmatter.date,\n url: `${siteUrl}${post.fields.slug}`,\n author: [{\n '@type': 'Person',\n name: 'Jedr Blaszyk',\n url: 'https://j.blaszyk.me/'\n }]\n };\n return React.createElement(Layout, {\n location: this.props.location,\n title: siteTitle,\n tocComponent: React.createElement(TableOfContents, Object.assign({}, post.tableOfContents, {\n widePostType: true\n }))\n }, React.createElement(SEO, {\n title: post.frontmatter.title,\n description: post.frontmatter.spoiler,\n slug: post.fields.slug,\n image: ogImagePath,\n structuredData: structuredData,\n meta: [{\n property: 'og:type',\n content: 'article'\n }, {\n property: 'og:article:published_time',\n content: post.frontmatter.date\n }, {\n property: 'og:article:author',\n content: 'https://j.blaszyk.me/about/'\n }]\n }), React.createElement(\"main\", null, React.createElement(\"article\", {\n className: \"post\"\n }, React.createElement(\"header\", {\n id: \"post-header\"\n }, React.createElement(\"h1\", {\n style: {\n color: 'var(--textTitle)',\n marginTop: '1.5rem',\n marginBottom: '0.5rem'\n }\n }, post.frontmatter.title), React.createElement(Link, {\n style: {\n boxShadow: 'none',\n textDecoration: 'none',\n color: 'var(--textLink)',\n fontFamily: 'Montserrat, sans-serif'\n },\n to: `/`,\n rel: \"bookmark\"\n }, React.createElement(\"p\", null, 'Blog')), React.createElement(\"p\", {\n style: {\n ...scale(-1 / 5),\n display: 'block',\n marginBottom: rhythm(1),\n marginTop: rhythm(-4 / 5)\n }\n }, formatPostDate(post.frontmatter.date), React.createElement(\"span\", {\n style: {\n margin: '0 0.15rem'\n }\n }, ` • `), formatReadingTime(post.fields.timeToRead.minutes), React.createElement(\"span\", {\n style: {\n margin: '0 0.15rem'\n }\n }, ` • `), formatNumberOfPhotos(post.frontmatter))), React.createElement(MDXProvider, {\n components: shortcodes\n }, children))), React.createElement(\"aside\", null, React.createElement(\"nav\", null, React.createElement(\"ul\", {\n style: {\n display: 'flex',\n flexWrap: 'wrap',\n justifyContent: 'space-between',\n listStyle: 'none',\n padding: 0,\n marginLeft: 0\n }\n }, React.createElement(\"li\", null, previous && React.createElement(Link, {\n to: previous.fields.slug,\n rel: \"prev\"\n }, \"← \", previous.frontmatter.title)), React.createElement(\"li\", null, next && React.createElement(Link, {\n to: next.fields.slug,\n rel: \"next\"\n }, next.frontmatter.title, \" →\")))), React.createElement(\"h3\", {\n style: {\n fontFamily: 'Montserrat, sans-serif',\n marginTop: rhythm(0.25)\n }\n }, React.createElement(Link, {\n style: {\n boxShadow: 'none',\n textDecoration: 'none',\n color: 'var(--textLink)'\n },\n to: '/'\n }, \"Jedr's Blog\")), React.createElement(\"aside\", {\n style: {\n width: '100%',\n backgroundColor: 'var(--bg-header)',\n borderRadius: '1em',\n padding: '1.2em 0.6em',\n marginBottom: '1.5rem'\n }\n }, React.createElement(Bio, {\n isBike: true,\n style: {\n marginBottom: 0\n },\n size: \"l\"\n })), React.createElement(Comments, {\n url: `${siteUrl}${post.fields.slug}`,\n id: post.fields.slug,\n title: post.frontmatter.title\n })));\n }\n}\nBlogPostTemplate\nexport default function GatsbyMDXWrapper(props) {\n return React.createElement(BlogPostTemplate, props, React.createElement(GATSBY_COMPILED_MDX, props));\n}\nexport const pageQuery = graphql`\n query BlogPostBySlug($slug: String!) {\n site {\n siteMetadata {\n title\n author\n siteUrl\n }\n }\n mdx(fields: { slug: { eq: $slug } }) {\n id\n body\n tableOfContents\n frontmatter {\n title\n date(formatString: \"MMMM DD, YYYY\")\n spoiler\n ogimage {\n childImageSharp {\n gatsbyImageData(width: 960, layout: FIXED)\n }\n }\n logo {\n childImageSharp {\n gatsbyImageData(width: 960, layout: CONSTRAINED)\n }\n }\n images {\n childImageSharp {\n gatsbyImageData(width: 1400, layout: CONSTRAINED, quality: 90)\n }\n }\n blogImages {\n childImageSharp {\n gatsbyImageData(width: 1400, layout: CONSTRAINED, quality: 90)\n }\n }\n }\n fields {\n slug\n timeToRead {\n minutes\n }\n }\n }\n }\n`;\n","import React from 'react';\n\nimport { GatsbyImage, getImage } from 'gatsby-plugin-image';\n\nimport './BikepackingDetails.css';\n\nexport const BikepackingDetails = (props) => {\n const { logo, title, elevation, distance, time, date } = props;\n\n return (\n
\n
\n
\n \n
\n
\n

{title}

\n
    \n
  • \n Distance:{' '}\n {distance}\n
    • \n
  • \n Elevation:{' '}\n {elevation}\n
    • \n
  • \n Time:{' '}\n {time}\n
    • \n
  • \n Date:{' '}\n {date}\n
    • \n
\n
\n
\n
\n );\n};\n","import React from 'react';\nimport { useRef, useEffect } from 'react';\nimport classnames from 'classnames';\nimport useIntersectionObserver from '@react-hook/intersection-observer';\n\nimport './layout/Container.css';\n\nconst LazyStravaContainer = ({\n children,\n height,\n marginBottom = '0',\n wrapperClassName,\n}) => {\n const containerRef = useRef();\n const lockRef = useRef(false);\n const { isIntersecting } = useIntersectionObserver(containerRef);\n if (isIntersecting) {\n lockRef.current = true;\n }\n\n useEffect(() => {\n if (lockRef.current) {\n const script = document.createElement('script');\n script.src = 'https://strava-embeds.com/embed.js';\n script.async = true;\n document.body.appendChild(script);\n }\n }, [lockRef.current]);\n\n return (\n \n {lockRef.current && children}\n \n );\n};\n\nexport default LazyStravaContainer;\n","(function(global, factory) {\n if (typeof module === \"object\" && typeof module.exports === \"object\") factory(exports, require(\"react\"), require(\"prop-types\"), require(\"katex\"));\n else if (typeof define === \"function\" && define.amd) define([\n \"exports\",\n \"react\",\n \"prop-types\",\n \"katex\"\n ], factory);\n else if (global = typeof globalThis !== \"undefined\" ? globalThis : global || self) factory(global.index = {}, global.react, global.propTypes, global.katex);\n})(this, function(exports, _react, _propTypes, _katex) {\n \"use strict\";\n Object.defineProperty(exports, \"__esModule\", {\n value: true\n });\n function _export(target, all) {\n for(var name in all)Object.defineProperty(target, name, {\n enumerable: true,\n get: all[name]\n });\n }\n _export(exports, {\n BlockMath: ()=>BlockMath,\n InlineMath: ()=>InlineMath\n });\n _react = /*#__PURE__*/ _interopRequireWildcard(_react);\n _propTypes = /*#__PURE__*/ _interopRequireDefault(_propTypes);\n _katex = /*#__PURE__*/ _interopRequireDefault(_katex);\n function _interopRequireDefault(obj) {\n return obj && obj.__esModule ? obj : {\n default: obj\n };\n }\n function _getRequireWildcardCache(nodeInterop) {\n if (typeof WeakMap !== \"function\") return null;\n var cacheBabelInterop = new WeakMap();\n var cacheNodeInterop = new WeakMap();\n return (_getRequireWildcardCache = function(nodeInterop) {\n return nodeInterop ? cacheNodeInterop : cacheBabelInterop;\n })(nodeInterop);\n }\n function _interopRequireWildcard(obj, nodeInterop) {\n if (!nodeInterop && obj && obj.__esModule) {\n return obj;\n }\n if (obj === null || typeof obj !== \"object\" && typeof obj !== \"function\") {\n return {\n default: obj\n };\n }\n var cache = _getRequireWildcardCache(nodeInterop);\n if (cache && cache.has(obj)) {\n return cache.get(obj);\n }\n var newObj = {};\n var hasPropertyDescriptor = Object.defineProperty && Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor;\n for(var key in obj){\n if (key !== \"default\" && Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(obj, key)) {\n var desc = hasPropertyDescriptor ? Object.getOwnPropertyDescriptor(obj, key) : null;\n if (desc && (desc.get || desc.set)) {\n Object.defineProperty(newObj, key, desc);\n } else {\n newObj[key] = obj[key];\n }\n }\n }\n newObj.default = obj;\n if (cache) {\n cache.set(obj, newObj);\n }\n return newObj;\n }\n /**\n * @typedef {import(\"react\").ReactNode} ReactNode\n *\n *\n * @callback ErrorRenderer\n * @param {Error} error\n * @returns {ReactNode}\n *\n *\n * @typedef {object} MathComponentPropsWithMath\n * @property {string} math\n * @property {ReactNode=} children\n * @property {string=} errorColor\n * @property {ErrorRenderer=} renderError\n *\n *\n * @typedef {object} MathComponentPropsWithChildren\n * @property {string=} math\n * @property {ReactNode} children\n * @property {string=} errorColor\n * @property {ErrorRenderer=} renderError\n *\n * @typedef {MathComponentPropsWithMath | MathComponentPropsWithChildren} MathComponentProps\n */ const createMathComponent = (Component, { displayMode })=>{\n /**\n *\n * @param {MathComponentProps} props\n * @returns {ReactNode}\n */ const MathComponent = ({ children , errorColor , math , renderError })=>{\n const formula = math !== null && math !== void 0 ? math : children;\n const { html , error } = (0, _react.useMemo)(()=>{\n try {\n const html = _katex.default.renderToString(formula, {\n displayMode,\n errorColor,\n throwOnError: !!renderError\n });\n return {\n html,\n error: undefined\n };\n } catch (error) {\n if (error instanceof _katex.default.ParseError || error instanceof TypeError) {\n return {\n error\n };\n }\n throw error;\n }\n }, [\n formula,\n errorColor,\n renderError\n ]);\n if (error) {\n return renderError ? renderError(error) : /*#__PURE__*/ _react.default.createElement(Component, {\n html: `${error.message}`\n });\n }\n return /*#__PURE__*/ _react.default.createElement(Component, {\n html: html\n });\n };\n MathComponent.propTypes = {\n children: _propTypes.default.string,\n errorColor: _propTypes.default.string,\n math: _propTypes.default.string,\n renderError: _propTypes.default.func\n };\n return MathComponent;\n };\n const InternalPathComponentPropTypes = {\n html: _propTypes.default.string.isRequired\n };\n const InternalBlockMath = ({ html })=>{\n return /*#__PURE__*/ _react.default.createElement(\"div\", {\n \"data-testid\": \"react-katex\",\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: html\n }\n });\n };\n InternalBlockMath.propTypes = InternalPathComponentPropTypes;\n const InternalInlineMath = ({ html })=>{\n return /*#__PURE__*/ _react.default.createElement(\"span\", {\n \"data-testid\": \"react-katex\",\n dangerouslySetInnerHTML: {\n __html: html\n }\n });\n };\n InternalInlineMath.propTypes = InternalPathComponentPropTypes;\n const BlockMath = createMathComponent(InternalBlockMath, {\n displayMode: true\n });\n const InlineMath = createMathComponent(InternalInlineMath, {\n displayMode: false\n });\n});\n\n//# 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- \ No newline at end of file + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/page-data/app-data.json b/page-data/app-data.json index 4670cfbf3..2c71c5407 100644 --- a/page-data/app-data.json +++ b/page-data/app-data.json @@ -1 +1 @@ -{"webpackCompilationHash":"8d9db4a1e1df0842d2db"} +{"webpackCompilationHash":"304e05cfa5fe8384da52"} diff --git a/page-data/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/page-data.json b/page-data/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/page-data.json index adb05ec7d..6845dbced 100644 --- a/page-data/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/page-data.json +++ b/page-data/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/page-data.json @@ -1 +1 @@ -{"componentChunkName":"component---src-templates-blog-post-js-content-file-path-content-blog-balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania-index-mdx","path":"/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/","result":{"data":{"site":{"siteMetadata":{"title":"Jedr Blaszyk","author":"Jedr Blaszyk","siteUrl":"https://j.blaszyk.me"}},"mdx":{"id":"1a2d78d7-daba-5a1f-b866-88cd788444b7","body":"\n- [The Route](#the-route)\n- [Montenegro](#montenegro)\n- [Albania](#albania)\n\n\n \n\n\nThis was my second time biking through the Balkans. Seven years ago, just before starting university, I cycled 1200 km from Vienna to Bar in Montenegro. That trip left me with unforgettable memories, so I was eager to return and explore this beautiful region again.\n\n## Bikepacking in the Balkans\n\n\n\nFor this trip, we followed a route inspired by the [The Balkans](https://bikepacking.com/plog/balkans-bikepacking-video/) post on bikepacking.com, which provided a great foundation. However, we made a few changes to suit our plans and interests, spending more time exploring Kotor Bay and deciding not to cycle through Bosnia.\n\nThe journey took us through Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania, covering a mix of coastal roads, steep mountain climbs, and remote trails. Late September weather added an unpredictable element to the trip, with thunderstorms frequently lighting up the skies and sudden rain showers. Despite the occasional rain, the Balkans delivered stunning views at every turn, making the challenge more than worth it.\n\n## The Route\n\nThe roads we cycled ranged from smooth tarmac along the coast to rugged gravel mountain paths, and eventually to unrideable muddy sections. Our route essentially made a big loop around [Lake Shkodër](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Skadar). The elevation gains were significant, especially during the steep climbs in Montenegro and Albania. Some of the off-road sections were tough but well worth the effort, particularly in the Albanian Alps.\n\nI was especially fond of the wide tires on my gravel bike, which handled the rougher terrain flawlessly. The tubeless setup, combined with lower tire pressure, gave me extra grip and stability, which made all the difference on the more challenging off-road sections. It kept the ride comfortable, even in less-than-ideal conditions. Best of all, mine was the only bike that didn't have a mechanical issue this year!\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n## Croatia\n\nWe started our trip in Dubrovnik, arriving at the airport with our bikes all packed up. To make things easier, we booked our final night's accommodation near the airport, which turned out to be a smart move as we had our return flight very early in the morning. Our host kindly picked up all six of us, bikes included, from the airport and let us store our bike bags in the basement for the week, giving us a hassle-free start to the journey.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe weather on the first day was surprisingly nice, with clear skies and warm temperatures. We assembled our bikes by the apartment's pool and then set off toward the Montenegro border. But before long, a heavy thunderstorm caught up with us...\n\n## Montenegro\n\n### Kotor Bay\n\nAfter assembling our bikes in Dubrovnik, we set off along the coast, crossing into Montenegro. The weather was pleasant at first, but as we neared Kotor, dark clouds began to gather. By nightfall, lightning was flashing across the sky.\n\nWe had planned to camp that night, but with the storm closing in, we opted for an apartment in Bijela instead. At just 10 euros per person, it was almost the same price as camping, so it felt like a good deal.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n### Lovcen National Park\n\nThe next morning, we set off from Kotor Bay, and it didn't take long for the road to start climbing. The ascent from sea level to 1,400 meters was tough but well worth it, with incredible views of Kotor Bay fading behind us. As we climbed higher into Lovćen National Park, the landscape transformed into rocky cliffs and forests.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe descent from the pass was amazing. A long, winding, paved mountain road led us down toward Virpazar, a small town by Lake Skadar. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side again, with thunderstorms in the forecast for the evening. So, for the second night in a row, we opted for an apartment.\n\nIn Virpazar, we got a nice surprise — a local restaurant where the famous Polish chef [Robert Makłowicz had filmed his show](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOHcpsE8NWQ). Naturally, we had to try the food, and it didn't disappoint!\n\n### Bar\n\nOn Day 3, we made our way toward Bar, starting with a climb out of Virpazar. The route took us through mountain passes before descending toward Bar city on the coast. From there we followed the coast to the Albanian border.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n## Albania\n\n### Shkodër\n\nThe moment we entered Albania, we noticed how chaotic the traffic was, with cars, bikes, and pedestrians all moving in what seemed like organized chaos. It had an almost Asian vibe, with the roads full of people going in every direction. Stray dogs roamed the streets, and the Mercedes seemed to be the car of choice for just about everyone, whether brand new or old.\n\nDespite the bustling atmosphere, the locals were incredibly welcoming. Children waved and offered high-fives as we passed by on our bikes, adding a sense of warmth. The weather, however, remained unpredictable, with thunderstorms once again in the forecast. We ended up finding a full 120m² villa right in the heart of downtown for just 10 euros per person, complete with a bottle of raki as a welcome gift. It was a perfect place to rest after the long day on the road.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n### Albanian Alps: Shkodër to Nderlysaj\n\nThe part of our journey took us into the heart of the Albanian Alps, also known as [the Accursed Mountains](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accursed_Mountains). These mountains are one of the last unexplored regions of Europe, and it certainly felt that way as we ventured deeper into the rocky landscape. The route from Shkodër to Theth was the most challanging part of the trip.\n\nWe started with a scenic paved path along a canyon, with towering mountains on either side. Goats and cows wandered the road, adding to the sense that we were far from civilization. After about 20 kilometers, the smooth tarmac turned into gravel, and with all the recent rain, the trail was full of mud and water. The climb was steep, with breathtaking views behind us, but the rough conditions made it slow going.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nAt around 500 meters of elevation, we reached the tiny village of Kir, where there was little more than a few excavators and a [small café](https://maps.app.goo.gl/B1ynt27vfQfi38vU7) housed in a shed. The café offered only soft drinks and Turkish coffee. Stray dogs roamed around the café. After a quick stop, we pushed on, but the nice gravel soon turned into a rocky and muddy mountain road. At one point, the mud became so thick that we had to walk our bikes through the mess — there was no way to ride it.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nEventually, we reached the mountain pass at 1100 meters. Thankfully, the downhill section wasn't muddy, but it was rocky and challenging. Some of the group had mechanical issues, with flat tires causing delays. As we descended into the valley, it was getting dark and cold, and to make things even more interesting, we didn't have any cellural signal.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nWe stopped at a small place called [Kafe Skollaj](https://maps.app.goo.gl/aD5imztnVgNxx9Dc9), which, despite calling itself a restaurant on Google Maps, was really just a pub. When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine! After clearing that up, we got our cold drinks, which gave us a much-needed boost for the final 8 kilometers of flatter gravel toward Nderlysaj.\n\n> When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine!\n\nWe arrived at a guesthouse run by a local family, who were incredibly welcoming. They cooked us a huge dinner, and after a long, cold day, it was exactly what we needed. The owner proudly served us his homemade walnut raki, comparing it to a “Mercedes” among other raki. It was a great way to end the day, even though the heating wasn't working, and it was freezing cold at night. Luckily, I had my 0°C sleeping bag with me.\n\n### Albanian Alps: Theth to Koplik\n\nThe next morning greeted us with cold temperatures, but for the first time on the trip, we had clear skies and sunshine. After a breakfast prepared by our hosts, we set out from Nderlysaj toward Theth, with the plan to climb up to the mountain pass at 1650 meters.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nStarting in the valley at around 500 meters elevation, we faced a grueling climb of over 1100 meters. Thankfully, this section of road had been freshly paved in 2022, which made the climb a lot more manageable. The smooth tarmac was a welcome relief after the rough, muddy trails we had faced the day before. As we rode higher, we reached Theth at 800 meters, a somewhat popular tourist spot with waterfalls and hiking trails. Here, we stopped at a small grocery store to resupply and grabbed a much-needed coffee.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe final push up to the pass was challenging, but the views at the top were stunning. At 1650 meters, we layered up in nearly all the clothes we had — it was freezing. Luckily, there was a neat hotel-restaurant at the top where we grabbed some food before starting the long descent toward Koplik.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe downhill ride was about 40 kilometers, and it was one of the most rewarding parts of the entire trip. The views of Lake Shkoder and the surrounding mountains were breathtaking as we descended. We had to be careful, though, because at times the road was occupied by pigs wandering freely! As we got closer to the lake, the sun finally warmed us up, and the contrast between the towering mountains and the Shkodër lake below was unforgettable.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nFrom there, we crossed back into Montenegro, and headed to Podgorica.\n\n\n\n \n\n\n## Heading back to Dubrovnik\n\nAfter passing through Podgorica, we camped for the night in a vineyard near the capital. This was the first time (long overdue!) that we decided to use our tents on the trip. The [campsite](https://www.instagram.com/vino_jokas/) was tucked between grapevines, and after a long day of riding, it felt great to finally sleep under the stars. We ended the evening with a delicious homemade lasagna and local wine, all prepared by the owner.\n\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe next morning, we packed up early and aimed for the Bosnian border, but the mountainous route ahead wasn't as straightforward as it looked on the map. We passed through Danilovgrad and rode into a stretch of empty mountain roads. While the scenery was stunning, the complete lack of stores, or cafés made resupplying a real challenge. For nearly 80 kilometers, we cycled through isolated mountain passes without a single stop for water or food.\n\nAt one point, the road marked on our map turned into an unrideable rocky path. It was nearly impossible to push forward, with heavy vegetation and rocks blocking our way. **If you're following this route, definitely avoid this 10 km stretch (it starts at 465 km on the Komoot route)!** After plenty of swearing and struggling, we finally reached the village of Grahovo, where we stopped for a much-needed meal.\n\nBy this point, the group was feeling pretty wiped out, especially after a few days of relying mostly on jelly beans for energy. To make matters worse, we discovered that the border crossing we'd planned to use was for locals only. That meant we would have to take the main road at night, with big trucks passing by and an extra 500 meters of elevation to climb.\n\nWith everyone exhausted, we decided to change our plans. Instead of pushing on to Bosnia, we opted for a 20-kilometer descent down to Kotor Bay. It was a much-needed break from climbing, and by the time we reached our accommodation, we were rewarded with beautiful views of the lake.\n\nThe next day, we cycled along the coast back into Croatia, where we encountered heavy traffic at the border crossing. Luckily, it was a short day of just 50 kilometers. We returned to our final accommodation near Dubrovnik airport, where packed the bikes before our early morning flight.\n\nWith time to spare, we celebrated the end of our journey with a quick taxi ride into Dubrovnik to explore the city. It was the perfect way to wrap up our Balkan adventure.\n\n## Our Rigs\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n","tableOfContents":{"items":[{"url":"#bikepacking-in-the-balkans","title":"Bikepacking in the Balkans"},{"url":"#the-route","title":"The Route"},{"url":"#croatia","title":"Croatia"},{"url":"#montenegro","title":"Montenegro","items":[{"url":"#kotor-bay","title":"Kotor Bay"},{"url":"#lovcen-national-park","title":"Lovcen National Park"},{"url":"#bar","title":"Bar"}]},{"url":"#albania","title":"Albania","items":[{"url":"#shkodër","title":"Shkodër"},{"url":"#albanian-alps-shkodër-to-nderlysaj","title":"Albanian Alps: Shkodër to Nderlysaj"},{"url":"#albanian-alps-theth-to-koplik","title":"Albanian Alps: Theth to Koplik"}]},{"url":"#heading-back-to-dubrovnik","title":"Heading back to Dubrovnik"},{"url":"#our-rigs","title":"Our Rigs"}]},"frontmatter":{"title":"Balkans Bikepacking: Exploring Montenegro and Albania","date":"September 22, 2024","spoiler":"A bikepacking adventure through Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania. Mountain trails, coastal roads, and the passes of the Albanian Alps.","ogimage":{"childImageSharp":{"gatsbyImageData":{"layout":"fixed","placeholder":{"fallback":"data:image/jpeg;base64,/9j/2wBDAAYEBQYFBAYGBQYHBwYIChAKCgkJChQODwwQFxQYGBcUFhYaHSUfGhsjHBYWICwgIyYnKSopGR8tMC0oMCUoKSj/2wBDAQcHBwoIChMKChMoGhYaKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCgoKCj/wgARCAANABQDASIAAhEBAxEB/8QAGAAAAgMAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAUBBgf/xAAWAQEBAQAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACAQP/2gAMAwEAAhADEAAAAUDdHOcsZngx/8QAHBAAAQUAAwAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAgABAwQFERIU/9oACAEBAAEFAq+pZZPq9h90gqOrGrTMEBGXP//EABgRAAIDAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABAhES/9oACAEDAQE/AXGzJ//EABcRAAMBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABAhL/2gAIAQIBAT8BmmjbP//EAB8QAAIBAwUBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABAhESMQMhIjJBYv/aAAgBAQAGPwKj1b4/WTtazIpPevhwikZP/8QAGxABAQACAwEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAREAIRAxQXH/2gAIAQEAAT8hHFEb0j44ARIzeSBBhijs8GJYIjDhH//aAAwDAQACAAMAAAAQvB//xAAYEQEAAwEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABABExQf/aAAgBAwEBPxAuqhU1n//EABgRAAMBAQAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABIRFh/9oACAECAQE/EKaq6N1xH//EAB0QAAICAwADAAAAAAAAAAAAAAERACExQWFxgdH/2gAIAQEAAT8QCC0jgYtt+XEDMIinwkUuxwsBoEL1yB7UFmjasyjSYUW/pgmTAn//2Q=="},"backgroundColor":"transparent","images":{"fallback":{"src":"/static/d39aa44a24a15984e5526cb9e5e8c4eb/befba/DSCF1385.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d39aa44a24a15984e5526cb9e5e8c4eb/befba/DSCF1385.jpg 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Mountain trails, coastal roads, and the passes of the Albanian Alps.","indexImage":"./highlight.jpeg","ogimage":"./photos/DSCF1385.jpeg","logo":"./logo.png","category":"bikepacking","images":["./photos/DSCF1004.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1010.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1033.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1041.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1044.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1047.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1056.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1089.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1105.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1109.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1110.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1128.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1132.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1139.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1144.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1161.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1204.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1209.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1211.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1216.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1224.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1246.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1254.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1259.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1266.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1272.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1284.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1314.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1323.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1330.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1339.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1344.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1347.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1351.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1355.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1360.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1361.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1369.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1378.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1385.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1389.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1395.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1397.jpeg","./photos/IMG_4343.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1404.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1405.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1407.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1433.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1434.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1435.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1440.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1442.jpeg","./photos/DSCF1444.jpeg"]}}},"staticQueryHashes":["1142660440"],"slicesMap":{}} \ No newline at end of file +{"componentChunkName":"component---src-templates-blog-post-js-content-file-path-content-blog-balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania-index-mdx","path":"/balkans-bikepacking-montenegro-albania/","result":{"data":{"site":{"siteMetadata":{"title":"Jedr Blaszyk","author":"Jedr Blaszyk","siteUrl":"https://j.blaszyk.me"}},"mdx":{"id":"1a2d78d7-daba-5a1f-b866-88cd788444b7","body":"\n- [The Route](#the-route)\n- [Montenegro](#montenegro)\n- [Albania](#albania)\n\n\n \n\n\nThis was my second time biking through the Balkans. Seven years ago, just before starting university, I cycled 1200 km from Vienna to Bar in Montenegro. That trip left me with unforgettable memories, so I was eager to return and explore this beautiful region again.\n\n## Bikepacking in the Balkans\n\n\n\nFor this trip, we followed a route inspired by the [The Balkans](https://bikepacking.com/plog/balkans-bikepacking-video/) post on bikepacking.com, which provided a great foundation. However, we made a few changes to suit our plans and interests, spending more time exploring Kotor Bay and deciding not to cycle through Bosnia.\n\nThe journey took us through Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania, covering a mix of coastal roads, steep mountain climbs, and remote trails. Late September weather added an unpredictable element to the trip, with thunderstorms frequently lighting up the skies and sudden rain showers. Despite the occasional rain, the Balkans delivered stunning views at every turn, making the challenge more than worth it.\n\n## The Route\n\nThe roads we cycled ranged from smooth tarmac along the coast to rugged gravel mountain paths, and eventually to unrideable muddy sections. Our route essentially made a big loop around [Lake Shkodër](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Skadar). The elevation gains were significant, especially during the steep climbs in Montenegro and Albania. Some of the off-road sections were tough but well worth the effort, particularly in the Albanian Alps.\n\nI was especially fond of the wide tires on my gravel bike, which handled the rougher terrain flawlessly. The tubeless setup, combined with lower tire pressure, gave me extra grip and stability, which made all the difference on the challenging off-road sections.\n\nBest of all, mine was the only bike that didn't have a mechanical issue this year!\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n## Croatia\n\nWe started our trip in Dubrovnik, arriving at the airport with our bikes all packed up. To make things easier, we booked our final night's accommodation near the airport, which turned out to be a smart move as we had our return flight very early in the morning. Our host kindly picked up all six of us, bikes included, from the airport and let us store our bike bags in the basement for the week, giving us a hassle-free start to the journey.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe weather on the first day was surprisingly nice, with clear skies and warm temperatures. We assembled our bikes by the apartment's pool and then set off toward the Montenegro border. But before long, a heavy thunderstorm caught up with us...\n\n## Montenegro\n\n### Kotor Bay\n\nAfter assembling our bikes in Dubrovnik, we set off along the coast, crossing into Montenegro. The weather was pleasant at first, but as we neared Kotor, dark clouds began to gather. By nightfall, lightning was flashing across the sky.\n\nWe had planned to camp that night, but with the storm closing in, we opted for an apartment in Bijela instead. At just 10 euros per person, it was almost the same price as camping, so it felt like a good deal.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n### Lovcen National Park\n\nThe next morning, we set off from Kotor Bay, and it didn't take long for the road to start climbing. The ascent from sea level to 1,400 meters was tough but well worth it, with incredible views of Kotor Bay fading behind us. As we climbed higher into Lovćen National Park, the landscape transformed into rocky cliffs and forests.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe descent from the pass was amazing. A long, winding, paved mountain road led us down toward Virpazar, a small town by Lake Shkodër. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side again, with thunderstorms in the forecast for the evening. So, for the second night in a row, we opted for an apartment.\n\nIn Virpazar, we got a nice surprise — a local restaurant where the famous Polish chef [Robert Makłowicz had filmed his show](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOHcpsE8NWQ). Naturally, we had to try the food, and it didn't disappoint!\n\n### Bar\n\nOn Day 3, we made our way toward Bar, starting with a climb out of Virpazar. The route took us through mountain passes before descending toward Bar city on the coast. From there we followed the coast to the Albanian border.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n## Albania\n\n### Shkodër\n\nThe moment we entered Albania, we noticed how chaotic the traffic was, with cars, bikes, and pedestrians all moving in what seemed like organized chaos. It had an almost Asian vibe, with the roads full of people going in every direction. Stray dogs roamed the streets, and the Mercedes seemed to be the car of choice for just about everyone, whether brand new or old.\n\nDespite the bustling atmosphere, the locals were incredibly welcoming. Children waved and offered high-fives as we passed by on our bikes, adding a sense of warmth. The weather, however, remained unpredictable, with thunderstorms once again in the forecast. We ended up finding a full 120m² villa right in the heart of downtown for just 10 euros per person, complete with a bottle of raki as a welcome gift. It was a perfect place to rest after the long day on the road.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\n### Albanian Alps: Shkodër to Nderlysaj\n\nThe part of our journey took us into the heart of the Albanian Alps, also known as [the Accursed Mountains](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accursed_Mountains). These mountains are one of the last unexplored regions of Europe, and it certainly felt that way as we ventured deeper into the rocky landscape. The route from Shkodër to Theth was the most challanging part of the trip.\n\nWe started with a scenic paved path along a canyon, with towering mountains on either side. Goats and cows wandered the road, adding to the sense that we were far from civilization. After about 20 kilometers, the smooth tarmac turned into gravel, and with all the recent rain, the trail was full of mud and water. The climb was steep, with breathtaking views behind us, but the rough conditions made it slow going.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nAt around 500 meters of elevation, we reached the tiny village of Kir, where there was little more than a few excavators and a [small café](https://maps.app.goo.gl/B1ynt27vfQfi38vU7) housed in a shed. The café offered only soft drinks and Turkish coffee. Stray dogs roamed around the café. After a quick stop, we pushed on, but the nice gravel soon turned into a rocky and muddy mountain road. At one point, the mud became so thick that we had to walk our bikes through the mess — there was no way to ride it.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nEventually, we reached the mountain pass at 1100 meters. Thankfully, the downhill section wasn't muddy, but it was rocky and challenging. Some of the group had mechanical issues, with flat tires causing delays. As we descended into the valley, it was getting dark and cold, and to make things even more interesting, we didn't have any cellural signal.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nWe stopped at a small place called [Kafe Skollaj](https://maps.app.goo.gl/aD5imztnVgNxx9Dc9), which, despite calling itself a restaurant on Google Maps, was really just a pub. When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine! After clearing that up, we got our cold drinks, which gave us a much-needed boost for the final 8 kilometers of flatter gravel toward Nderlysaj.\n\n> When I asked a local if they sell coke (Coca-Cola), he misunderstood and thought I was asking for cocaine!\n\nWe arrived at a guesthouse run by a local family, who were incredibly welcoming. They cooked us a huge dinner, and after a long, cold day, it was exactly what we needed. The owner proudly served us his homemade walnut raki, comparing it to a “Mercedes” among other raki. It was a great way to end the day, even though the heating wasn't working, and it was freezing cold at night. Luckily, I had my 0°C sleeping bag with me.\n\n### Albanian Alps: Theth to Koplik\n\nThe next morning greeted us with cold temperatures, but for the first time on the trip, we had clear skies and sunshine. After a breakfast prepared by our hosts, we set out from Nderlysaj toward Theth, with the plan to climb up to the mountain pass at 1650 meters.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nStarting in the valley at around 500 meters elevation, we faced a grueling climb of over 1100 meters. Thankfully, this section of road had been freshly paved in 2022, which made the climb a lot more manageable. The smooth tarmac was a welcome relief after the rough, muddy trails we had faced the day before. As we rode higher, we reached Theth at 800 meters, a somewhat popular tourist spot with waterfalls and hiking trails. Here, we stopped at a small grocery store to resupply and grabbed a much-needed coffee.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe final push up to the pass was challenging, but the views at the top were stunning. At 1650 meters, we layered up in nearly all the clothes we had — it was freezing. Luckily, there was a neat hotel-restaurant at the top where we grabbed some food before starting the long descent toward Koplik.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe downhill ride was about 40 kilometers, and it was one of the most rewarding parts of the entire trip. The views of Lake Shkodër and the surrounding mountains were breathtaking as we descended. We had to be careful, though, because at times the road was occupied by pigs wandering freely! As we got closer to the lake, the sun finally warmed us up, and the contrast between the towering mountains and the Shkodër lake below was unforgettable.\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nFrom there, we crossed back into Montenegro, and headed to Podgorica.\n\n\n\n \n\n\n## Heading back to Dubrovnik\n\nAfter passing through Podgorica, we camped for the night in a vineyard near the capital. This was the first time (long overdue!) that we decided to use our tents on the trip. The [campsite](https://www.instagram.com/vino_jokas/) was tucked between grapevines, and after a long day of riding, it felt great to finally sleep under the stars. We ended the evening with a delicious homemade lasagna and local wine, all prepared by the owner.\n\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\nThe next morning, we packed up early and aimed for the Bosnian border, but the mountainous route ahead wasn't as straightforward as it looked on the map. We passed through Danilovgrad and rode into a stretch of empty mountain roads. While the scenery was stunning, the complete lack of stores, or cafés made resupplying a real challenge. For nearly 80 kilometers, we cycled through isolated mountain passes without a single stop for water or food.\n\nAt one point, the road marked on our map turned into an unrideable rocky path. It was nearly impossible to push forward, with heavy vegetation and rocks blocking our way. **If you're following this route, definitely avoid this 10 km stretch (it starts at 465 km on the Komoot route)!** After plenty of swearing and struggling, we finally reached the village of Grahovo, where we stopped for a much-needed meal.\n\nBy this point, the group was feeling pretty wiped out, especially after a few days of relying mostly on jelly beans for energy. To make matters worse, we discovered that the border crossing we'd planned to use was for locals only. That meant we would have to take the main road at night, with big trucks passing by and an extra 500 meters of elevation to climb.\n\nWith everyone exhausted, we decided to change our plans. Instead of pushing on to Bosnia, we opted for a 20-kilometer descent down to Kotor Bay. It was a much-needed break from climbing, and by the time we reached our accommodation, we were rewarded with beautiful views of the lake.\n\nThe next day, we cycled along the coast back into Croatia, where we encountered heavy traffic at the border crossing. Luckily, it was a short day of just 50 kilometers. We returned to our final accommodation near Dubrovnik airport, where packed the bikes before our early morning flight.\n\nWith time to spare, we celebrated the end of our journey with a quick taxi ride into Dubrovnik to explore the city. It was the perfect way to wrap up our Balkan adventure.\n\n## Our Rigs\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n\n\n \n\n","tableOfContents":{"items":[{"url":"#bikepacking-in-the-balkans","title":"Bikepacking in the Balkans"},{"url":"#the-route","title":"The Route"},{"url":"#croatia","title":"Croatia"},{"url":"#montenegro","title":"Montenegro","items":[{"url":"#kotor-bay","title":"Kotor Bay"},{"url":"#lovcen-national-park","title":"Lovcen National Park"},{"url":"#bar","title":"Bar"}]},{"url":"#albania","title":"Albania","items":[{"url":"#shkodër","title":"Shkodër"},{"url":"#albanian-alps-shkodër-to-nderlysaj","title":"Albanian Alps: Shkodër to Nderlysaj"},{"url":"#albanian-alps-theth-to-koplik","title":"Albanian Alps: Theth to Koplik"}]},{"url":"#heading-back-to-dubrovnik","title":"Heading back to Dubrovnik"},{"url":"#our-rigs","title":"Our Rigs"}]},"frontmatter":{"title":"Balkans Bikepacking: Exploring Montenegro and Albania","date":"September 22, 2024","spoiler":"A bikepacking adventure through Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania. Mountain trails, coastal roads, and the passes of the Albanian Alps.","ogimage":{"childImageSharp":{"gatsbyImageData":{"layout":"fixed","placeholder":{"fallback":"data:image/jpeg;base64,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"},"backgroundColor":"transparent","images":{"fallback":{"src":"/static/d39aa44a24a15984e5526cb9e5e8c4eb/befba/DSCF1385.jpg","srcSet":"/static/d39aa44a24a15984e5526cb9e5e8c4eb/befba/DSCF1385.jpg 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They are displayed at the top of results for certain search queries,…... diff --git a/tech-blog/tech-stack-of-fast-free-and-customizable-blog/index.html b/tech-blog/tech-stack-of-fast-free-and-customizable-blog/index.html index 97af7633c..07c322f5f 100644 --- a/tech-blog/tech-stack-of-fast-free-and-customizable-blog/index.html +++ b/tech-blog/tech-stack-of-fast-free-and-customizable-blog/index.html @@ -196,6 +196,6 @@

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