You can display counts for the current file including line count, word
count, and byte count by hitting g CTRL-g. This also displays the line,
word, and byte that your cursor is currently at. The output looks something
like the following:
Col 1 of 0; Line 108 of 337; Word 397 of 1451; Byte 4571 of 18077
See :h 12.5 for more details.