final nits

Author: bwann

HELMER.md

@@ -7,32 +7,32 @@ tools so you can disassemble parts if it makes working with it easier.
 
 ![HELMER](./img/7271891250_ea68a6c65b_z.jpg)
 
-### Materials
-
-* (10) 16" long 1/2" aluminum angle stock (see below for exact measurement)
-* #8 metal screws
-
-### Assembly
-
-![HELMER partial](./img/7271889822_f71b9c2ba1_z.jpg)
-
 Normally the HELMER has six drawers, and thus has rails/guides for six drawers.
 The top drawer position is left untouched as the whole area is used for the
 power supply and switches.  This leaves the other five positions free.
 
 This is fine if you only want to install five blades, or if you want to have
-server blades with enough spacing to hold a PCIe card.  They're spaced about
-3" apart vertically.
+server blades with enough spacing to hold a low-profile PCIe card.  They're
+spaced about 3" apart vertically.
 
 To get maximum density of 10 server blades, you'll need to add extra rails.
 
-![HELMER side](./img/7271888534_2c394bac79_z.jpg)
+### Materials
+
+* (10) 16" long 1/2" aluminum angle stock (see below for exact measurement)
+* #8 1/2" metal screws
+
+### Assembly
+
+![HELMER partial](./img/7271889822_f71b9c2ba1_z.jpg)
 
 To do this I cut lengths of 1/2" aluminum angle stock the same length as the
 existing rails. It's important that they be the same length or a hair shorter
 if you intend to put doors on the cabinet, else if they stick out the doors
 won't close.  I think these were either 15.5" or 16" long.
 
+![HELMER side](./img/7271888534_2c394bac79_z.jpg)
+
 I used sheet metal screws to fasten the new aluminum rails to the lip on the
 side of the cabinet in-between the existing clip-in rails. Oddly enough I
 noticed the cabinet steel is pretty tough, you may need to pre-drill some

blade.md

@@ -15,11 +15,12 @@ For each motherboard in your cabinet:
 
 * 9.5" x 13.5" x 1/8" (or .100") acrylic sheet
 * #8 x 1/2" machine screws + nuts
+* #6 x 1/2" machine screws + nuts (optional, for 2.5" drives)
 * 9.5" x 1/2" aluminum angle stock (reinforcement bar)
 * (5) 1" cable tie mounting pads
 * Momentary rocker switch (power/reset button)
 * Tiny zip ties
-* PicoPSU
+* PicoPSU (http://www.mini-box.com/DC-DC)
 * Powerpole connectors
 * SATA power splitter, 2/3-way (optional)
 * Short SATA cables
@@ -39,6 +40,14 @@ you could cut some them down and use them if you wanted to reuse some of the
 material.  I used at least two of the drawers for holding the power supply
 and switch, so I've opted to use the same acrylic sheets for all 10 blades.
 
+### CPU fan warning
+
+Since the height of a blade is limited to about 1.5", there's not a lot of
+room for big CPU fans here.  On almost all of my blades I am using Intel
+Atom processors which have a low TDP and use a passive heatsink with no fan.
+The two older Pentium boards I have do have low-profile Dynatron 
+fans+heatsinks on the CPUs.
+
 ### Motherboard power
 
 The PicoPSU is what makes this whole project possible.  It's basically a
@@ -61,6 +70,10 @@ barrel connector and solder on Powerpole ends.  Use a couple of inches of
 After the motherboard is mounted, I'll connect the PicoPSU, then ziptie
 all the loose wires to the blade so they won't snag on anything.
 
+(I've seen some motherboards with built-in 12 VDC connectors which could
+eliminate a PicoPSU, but you're left with no way to power hard drives.)
+
+
 ### SATA connections
 
 I use a couple of 6" SATA cables, preferably with a 90-degree L-ends (but
@@ -69,6 +82,12 @@ just more to keep tied up to stay neat.
 
 ### Mounting to the blade
 
+For mounting the motherboard to the blade, I run machine screws (size #8)
+up through the bottom of the blade for each corner of the motherboard, and
+thread on a couple of nuts all the way down on each to make a crude standoff.
+The motherboard holes fit over the four screws, rests on the nuts, keeping it
+off the blade.  A final nut on each screw holds it down.
+
 ![Blade photo](./img/16932150116_451bd0770b_z.jpg)
 
 A piece of 1/2" aluminium angle stock (9.5" long) is bolted across the blade
@@ -94,23 +113,22 @@ another helps hold the wire in place.
 
 ![Reset switch mount](./img/16932150146_86a586bd91_z.jpg)
 
-For mounting the motherboard to the blade, I run machine screws (size #8
-I think?) through the bottom of the blade, and thread on a couple of nuts
-to make a crude standoff. The motherboard goes over the four screws and
-a final nut holds it down.
-
-Likewise for each hard drive I run a machine screw (#8 x 1/2"?) through
-the underside of the blade, thread on a couple of nuts, and then run the screw
-into the bottom of the hard drive. I stand the hard drive about a quarter inch
-off the blade so air can circulate around it.
+For each hard drive I run four machine screw (#8 x 1/2") up through the
+underside of the blade, like for the motherboard.  Here I thread on a single
+nut, then run the screw up into the bottom of the hard drive a few turns.  The
+nut is then tightened down against the blade surface so it holds the hard
+drive about a quarter inch off the blade so air can circulate around it.
 
-For 2.5" drives, I think they need #6 screws.
+For 2.5" drives, I think they need #6 1/2" screws.
 
 ![Standoffs](./img/7271914716_f9f48f5739_z.jpg)
 
 The blades can handle either 2x 3.5" hard drives, 2x 2.5" hard drive/SSDs,
-or 3x 2.5" HDD/SSDs. For the three drive configuration, they're in a "V"
-configuration. I figure this is better for heat/airflow and makes it easier
-to get at the nuts underneath the drives.
+or 3x 2.5" HDD/SSDs.
+
+The 3x 2.5" HDD/SSD configuration is a new design, I realized I had space on
+the board to fit an extra drive so provide it as an option.  In the laser
+cutter patterns they're in a "V" layout.  I figure this is better for
+heat/airflow and makes it easier to get at the nuts underneath the drives.
 
 ![Three drive config](./img/46835037641_474b8214e9_z.jpg)

door.md

@@ -20,6 +20,7 @@ front and back doors.
 * (2) HELMER drawer handles
 * (3) 140mm case fans, 2000-3000 RPM, 3-pin
 * (2) Molex to 3-pin splitters
+* (1) 3-pin fan extension cable, about 1'
 
 ### Door assembly
 
@@ -93,13 +94,14 @@ through the cabinet and exhaust out the back.
 These are just ziptied roughly evenly along the back door, low enough from
 the top so it doesn't get in the way of where the main power supply is.
 
-Originally I used 1000 RPM fans because I was sensitive to fan noise, but
+Originally I used 1,000 RPM fans because I was sensitive to fan noise, but
 once the cabinet is stuck under a desk it's really not as noticable. I later
-swapped these out for 2000 RPM (that's all Fry's had), and I think 3000 RPM
-may be okay.
+swapped these out for 2,000 RPM (that's all Fry's had).  3,000 RPM is probably
+overkill for noise unless you're running really hot systems and need it.
 
-For fan power, I used a molex connector off the main PSU, to a couple of
-3-pin splitters, then down to the four fans.  There's no speed control here,
+For fan power, I used two Molex connectors off the main PSU, to a couple of
+3-pin splitters, then down to the four fans.  You may need a short 3-pin
+extension cable to reach from top to bottom.  There's no speed control here,
 they run full speed all the time while the cabinet is powered up.
 
 ### Rear door cable access

network.md

@@ -9,11 +9,17 @@ The networking of my setup has changed considerably over the years, adding
 more complexity to keep up with real world environments.  You can install
 a switch here and call it done if you want!
 
+I've considered bolting a Mikrotik CRS switch to the side of the cabinet
+to get some 10-gigabit action, but this ruins all the effort of trying to
+stay neat.
+
 ### Material list
 
-* D-Link DGS-1016A switch
-* Ubiquiti ER-X or ER-6P router (optional)
+* D-Link DGS-1016A switch, (16-port gigabit)
+* Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X or EdgeRouter-6P router (optional)
 * 1/2/3' pre-made flat cat 5e patch cables
+* 4-6' cat 5e patch cable (switch/router to outside)
+* Keystone cat 5e coupler (outside connector, optional)
 
 ### Switches and router
 
@@ -41,15 +47,18 @@ intermediate router for testing.
 
 ![Flat cat 5 cabling](./img/24118899583_85746d5fba_z.jpg)
 
-Originally I used custom made cat5 cables to go from the switches to the
-individual motherboards.  These proved to be bulky and made the door not
-close well.  Since then I've bought pre-made cat5e cables in lengths of
-1', 2', 3'. These are much better because they can be bundled tightly
-together and stay out of the way of removing blades and keeping the door
-shut.
+Originally I made my own cut-to-length cat 5 cables to go from the switches to
+the individual motherboards.  These proved to be bulky and made the front door
+not close well.  Since then I've replaced them all with pre-made cat 5e cables
+in lengths of 1', 2', 3'. (Cat 6 is not needed here.)  These are much better
+because they can be bundled flat against each other and held along the inside
+edge of the door more tightly.  This keeps them out of the way of removing
+blades and keeping the door shut.
 
-Ethernet and power from the switch and router go out through the back door.
+Ethernet and power cables from the switch and router are fed out the back door.
 
+Tip: Put a cat 5e coupler in-line as Ethernet exits out the back door to make
+it easy to disconnect the cabinet when moving it around.
 
 ### Topology
 

power.md

@@ -56,8 +56,8 @@ it can not slide out.
 
 ![Rear of power shelf](./img/7835729104_e788373015_z.jpg)
 
-The fan of the PSU is a nice side effect of drawing air over the switch and
-router, and any residual heat out of the top of the cabinet.
+The fan in the top of the PSU has a nice side effect of drawing air over the
+switch and router, and any residual heat out of the top of the cabinet.
 
 In the front of the drawer, two 8-position terminal blocks are bolted down
 side by side. One side of each terminal block has daisy chained jumpers for
@@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ All 10 cable pairs can be ran down the left side of the cabinet, between the
 cabinet side and the drawer guides. This keeps them out of the way of sliding
 out individual blades.
 
-Another old photo, but shows how the cabling is ran down the inside of the
+Another old photo, but shows how the cabling is dropped down the inside of the
 cabinet from a terminal block:
 ![Power runs](./img/7276522710_9f794c3c08_z.jpg)
 
@@ -115,17 +115,26 @@ router, it makes the ports from the upper device inaccessible from the front.
 Fortunately, it's easy to take the top off the cabinet to get to the wiring
 if needed.
 
+Power for the switch(es) and/or router are fed out of the back of the cabinet
+where they plug into outlet power independently.
+
 ![Switch shelf](./img/7843050254_1ddc9d31da_z.jpg)
 
 Using the bottom from a second HELMER drawer, I cut it down to about 4-5" deep,
 trimmed the sides down to about 1.5", formed it into an inverted-"U", and fit
 it over the front of the other drawer.  This covers the terminal blocks and
-provides a surface to mount the switch on.  I used long lengths of hook and
-loop strap to hold things down.
+provides a surface to mount the switch on.  Put a big notch on the left side
+so the power cabling can feed into the side of the cabinet.
+
+It's rough and kind of hacky, but I didn't have a better idea.  I used long
+lengths of hook and loop strap to hold things down.
 
 This is a recent view of the front of the switch shelf, the router is under
 the lid of the cabinet:
 ![View of switch shelf front](./img/24652254001_e12708d4dd_z.jpg)
 
 View of the top of the cabinet before putting the lid on:
 ![Top view](./img/24118898823_527075567d_z.jpg)
+
+The top of the cabinet will cover all this stuff up, yet still provide
+access to the front of the switch.