Sonoff S60 version Europe : tasmotized

[ouinouin]

Hi,
Purchased recently the sonoff S60 , they are esp32C3 based sockets with 4000w switching power advertised, and power monitoring, based on the CSE7759B chipset.
the socket is not easy to dismantle, it requires to have a nice soldering iron with a bg tip since you ll have to unsolder the earth "bar while you entered inside the socket.
the main entrance is as for the gosund/nous sockets , inside the female earth pin at the back of the socket.

once the small torx scew is removed, you ll have to pull the grey cover, but its a bit glued, so you have to pry with cisors or another cuting tool all around the limit of the greycover and the body of the socket, the gluing is not so strong, you ll hear some few gracks while applying force with ce cisors in the junction.

once inside, you have to unsolder the earth bar, you ll notice some solder on it, heat and pull with pliers.
the grey plasting protecting the Lan N female pins, is clippend on th board, pull it with a thin plier or by the help of a screwdriver.
then, you ll have to unsolder the L and N bars that are coming from the back of the socket, unlike the gosund, where it was screwed, those ones are not easily removable, you have to heat the huge amount of tin on each pad, and melt also the invisible amount of tin that is located behind the board, then pull side by side with thin pliers, repeat the heating/pulling operation until the board gets out. , i pulled side by side with long pliers holding the copper of the L an N. once finished, the board will come off and youll e able to access to the pins of the microboard. the tx/RX are available through some pads on the mainboard and on the microboard. i prefered to solder my wires for flashing at the junction of the mainboard and the microboard. i flashed the board with tasmota webinstalled without issues.
i used the 5V pad to supply and test the board before reassembly, and used my serial to usb converter to supply the board while flashing with 5V levels, even if not considered safe, it worked. if you want to take it the safe way, consider powering via the 3.3V pad on the microboard.

here is the identification of the pins :

• RYH : relay High : GPIO4 , this drives the relay.
• RYL : relay low : GPIO1 , thi is linked to a transistor that seems unconnected a resistor is missing, i guess its for some other versions like 110V .
• MOD : GPIO10 , apparently this connection doesnt get out of the microboard , i couldnt trace it inside the microboard.
• KEY : GPIO9 , this is the button of the socket. luckily this is also the GPIO to be bulled to enter bootloader !
• LED : GPIO5 , this drives the blue LED , the red LED is hardware driven when the relay is on
• CSE7759B : GPIO7 , the TX pin of the CSE7759B goes to this GPIO. , appparently in the tasmota list you have to choose CSE7766RX

as per my knowledge this is to date the only teardown/flash of this model, more infos are welcome

![Uploading 20240423_003809.jpg

[h3lmutek]

hello, thanks for little tutorial, I'm adding a template: {"NAME":"S60","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,224,544,1,3104,1,32,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,1],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1}

few details:
need flash - tasmota32c3.factory.bin
powering via the 3.3V pad on the microboard wifi AP not working, via 5V working a show ssid.

[h3lmutek]

[milandzuris]

Hi, is there any chance you could make a video of how you disassembled it?, thanks.

[h3lmutek]

video asi ne, ale nejake fotky sem dam, ted delam dalsi 2ks

[milandzuris]

please add, i don't understand how to unsolder the L and N Pins, could you also circle where what need unsolder on the pcb?, thx.

[h3lmutek]

[milandzuris]

thx this photo help me

[sfromis]

Good work! I'd suggest creating a device template in https://templates.blakadder.com/ where you can also post about the difficulties of how to flash the device.

[milandzuris]

i have problem set plug to boot

[milandzuris]

need flashing with 5v no 3.3v

[Jac-Kok]

Thanks everyone for this guide.

It worked, the template was also very useful for configuring tasmota.

Opening the plug was quite easy using a knife and pulling. Then unsoldering the ground pin was also possible, but unsoldering L and N was a real nightmare. With the help of low solder temp and flux and solder wick I finally got it done. I don't think I would do it again unless there is an easier way. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone else, I found it very difficult.
But I am happy with the end result

Isn't flashing over the air an option here?

Update: 11-7
I've done 3 now, and you're getting better with it.
The tricky part remains unsoldering the PCB from the power connections

[netizeni]

I couldn't decide should I buy this S60 or S26. I was leaning towards S60 due to ESP32 and personally better looking device, but when I saw how much PITA is to flash this device, I bought S26.

Hope there will be an easier way to flash it in the future.

[sfromis]

Sure, you can do it easier. Just cut a big hole in the side 😀

[netizeni]

Heh, yeah, in that case I will just stick with S26.

[Jac-Kok]

Heh, yeah, in that case I will just stick with S26.

the advantage of the S60 is that it can measure power usage, which the S26 cannot. if you don't need that, the S26 is an easy alternative

[netizeni]

Yes, although I don't need that feature, it might come handy.

@ouinouin can you please take a couple pictures of that printed jig and how you use it for flashing? Also, from where you take 5V and GND? I just recently managed to open that file with FreeCAD and seems like it should be way easier to do it this way, if it doesn't involve (much, if any) soldering.

[menotuu]

firmware is only tasmota32c3.bin to use- which is only english.
tasmota32-DE.bin is wrong - right?

[sfromis]

You are right that it is very wrong, as it is a different hardware architecture. Due to the many variants (both hardware and config) and languages, the Tasmota project does not provide localized builds for other than the base variants.

[menotuu]

ok I searched a bit and found this to compile my own build with specific language.

[ouinouin]

i needed no soldering, i just got some flexible piece of metal from smail chinese wire grips and bended the end in s shape. i slide it on the side of the card, it requires multiple tries to get it correctly (basically i launch the flashing command in a continuous loop then try to place the jig correctly. i tap 5v and gnd from other accessible places on the pcb. Le 14 juillet 2024 19:34:15 GMT+02:00, netizeni ***@***.***> a écrit :

…

Yes, although I don't need that feature, it might come handy. @ouinouin can you please take a couple pictures of that printed jig and how you use it for flashing? Also, from where you take 5V and GND? I just recently managed to open that file with FreeCAD and seems like it should be way easier to do it this way, if it doesn't involve (much, if any) soldering. -- Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub: #21255 (reply in thread) You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Message ID: ***@***.***>

[netizeni]

It would be highly appreciated if you could take some photos of that setup, as it's quite hard to image it over text.

[voidpointertonull]

The original post describes a good approach, and it doesn't seem to be wise to stray far from that path, at least not as long as there isn't a better description utilizing a jig that avoids L+N soldering.

Heating and pulling at the same time wasn't working out well initially, so I went for the alternative option mentioned here of using a solder wick. It was a big mistake, a ton of solder ends up being on the other side, and at one point there will be no solder on the top to assist with heat distribution, so after a lot of pointless struggling, I ended up adding some solder back.

Still, the largest mistake was seeing all the helpful info here and figuring that if there's a way (with a beaten path at that), I'll supply the will.
Bought just one after seeing that the Sonoff brand got corrupted and it's not user friendly anymore after the earlier "DIY mode" days, but after going through this procedure, and considering the unnecessary gluing (it's not waterproof, and there's a screw already anyway), and the important pins also just coincidentally happening not to be exposed on the easier to reach side, I'd conclude that the manufacturer should shove up this hostile design where the sun doesn't shine, I'll keep looking for alternative options.

Thanks for everyone for all the helpful information though. If only the manufacturer would have just a fraction of this good will.

[helmutacp]

I found an alternative solution: cut out a window and then glue it back together. There should also GND point be available in that Windows.

[sfromis]

Yeah, I mentioned that idea already, but people seem to think that it is too brutal 🤛

[remmeha]

I like this approach. It worked very well for me after destroying one with the desoldering approach. Don't have to take it apart, only cut the small window. I had probe needles available and then even a smaller opening is good enough.

[tykasan]

Hey Guys,
Do you think it would be possible to add DS18B20 to this by using i.e TX pin?
If so, with, or without 4.7k Ohm resistor ?? >>> I did not find any information if it has built in pull up resistor that could be activated with SetOption74

Does anyone knows?

Great work btw.. just ordered 2 of these...
M

[Jason2866]

@tykasan NEVER again NEVER add anything to power metering sockets. There is by design AC mains level at the GPIOs.
Furthermore this sockets are so small even when it is not a power monitoring socket, do not do this. The added wires are to close to parts and traces with AC mains! It is dangerous and a very very bad idea to do.

[tykasan]

Ok, I didnt know there is a AC main level voltage at ESP32 GPIO .. I was really not aware of that...
So all these Sonoff basic modifications that people share with each other are also bad ideas?

[Jason2866]

Sonoff Basic has no power monitoring. The hardware design is different. The Sonoff Basic has no AC mains level on the GPIOs If done safely it is fine to add a sensor to the Sonoff Basic.

[Jason2866]

There is always AC mains at the GPIOs, if the device has power monitoring.

[tykasan]

Thanks for prompt explanation and saving my home appliance's :) I think I'll just add a secondary ESP module with sensor onboard.

[Noschvie]

@tykasan Have a look to the Shelly Plus 1 with the Plus Add-On, Shelly Plus Add-On Temperature Sensor

[tykasan]

No, I was not aware... but its nice to know that such things exists...
But for now, for me its easier to build another device, base on D1Mini and some sensors tat I currently have in my possession.. Zero waste :)

Thanks!

[defaliz]

Hi,
can somebody tell me from left to right what's the pinout on the picture ? ( i think pin 4 is GND, and 5 TX or RX ? and where is 3v3 ? )
regards

[sfromis]

Pinout should be visible on the back side of that small PCB; this is shown in the images in the first post.

[defaliz]

thank sfromis
so when we try to flash by cutting small windows, it is no possible to reach other side pins....

[Jason2866]

Use the round test point labeled 3V3.

[defaliz]

you're right !
i am going to disassemble the sonoff, now...
thanks !

[Pimentoso]

Just wanted to add that the torx screw size is 5.

[Maxpower905]

Torx-6

[defaliz]

you're right !
i am going to disassemble the sonoff, now...
thanks !

[defaliz]

what's the point of using the sonoff S60 socket since the same socket exists with tasmota already installed? this socket is the NOUS A1T.

[sfromis]

While the form factor and function is indeed very similar, it is not "the same socket". Still, I'd not want to mess with the Sonoff S60 when there are easier options available.....

In some markets, the Sonoff one may be easier to purchase.

[defaliz]

Very, very hard to do but finally successful !!!
see the picture for assembly...
plug is not plug on 230V
i've used tasmota web installer https://tasmota.github.io/install/
unplug the usb/serial device, hold S60 button, plug usb/serial device, and click on install on tasmota installer page !

[sfromis]

Using 5V is generally very bad, risks frying the chip, instead of the right voltage of 3.3V. And if it did not work on 3.3V, that's an unsuitable USB/serial adapter unable to deliver the needed power.

[helmutacp]

You can find a point for 3.3 and 5:

[defaliz]

Thanks helmutacp and sfromis...
I'll try 3.3v for an other one...

[defaliz]

now i try to use template from this post {"NAME":"S60","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,224,544,1,3104,1,32,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,1],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1}
but there is no toggle or energy meter...
when i configure GPIO4 to Relay 1, toogle is working...
how configure other GPIO's ?
regards

[defaliz]

sorry that's works fine with this template...
thanks to all

[defaliz]

flashing is relatively quick operation... no damage at this time...

[Fettkeewl]

Could we get some measurements if someone has a disassembled unit?
One might be inclined to try making a stl for a programming jig similar to @ouinouin.

[Yhatax]

Chip is 5x5mm, so with some image software you can infere distances from chip dimensions, maybe with a good photo it could be more accurate.

[Pimentoso]

I'm not familiar with tasmota and I want to flash esphome on the S60, where can I find the tasmota config for this plug so I can try to convert it into an esphome yaml?

[sfromis]

Not using that device, but I saw that a suggested template was already posted here.
{"NAME":"S60","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,224,544,1,3104,1,32,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,1],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1}

The components translates to:

Gpio.04     AO  224 Relay1
Gpio.05     AO  544 LedLink
Gpio.07     IO 3104 CSE7766 Rx
Gpio.09     IO   32 Button1

This is for the ESP32-C3 in the device.

[Maxus87]

Found out that using 220V power is also an option. Just remember to use optoisolation - like cheapest Ali usb isolators.
BTW once you dont need to cut until 5V, the final cutout will look more nice. I think the less cutting original case the better;)

[RafalVonau]

I think RYL was meant to be used for reducing the holding current of the relay coil. For example, a 50-ohm resistor would decrease the current flowing through the coil without causing the relay to turn off, which would reduce power consumption in the "on" state. Of course, this can also be done without a resistor by using PWM. This socket consumes about 0.2W when off and 0.6W when on, so it’s clear that power consumption was a consideration during the design process.

[Arise]

Did the reflash and yes, a real challenge to desolder.
I used my TS-100 with a C4 tip @350° Celsius and had to add some bismuth. Really don't think is worth the money/time/effort to do this procedure.

What did the trick for me was to first melt the solder on the leg with less exposed side ( less area to heat) and at the same time, using a pair of thin claws pliers to pull up from the socket contacts. You only have to do that a bit and raise a couple of 2-3mm from the position, then let it cool so the solder hardens and won't go back.
Then move to the other leg, heat more until solder is liquid then pull until you can move it up a couple of millimeters.

Repeat if necessary.

What is sad is that in the end you still need to solder everything back an you don't know how thick those lines were in the first place, to make sure is still rated at 20Amps/4000W.

[zonk-git]

Tried another way similar to the jig approach, but aiming at connecting to the PCB pad through the plastic case by drilling small holes and inserting pogo pins in the holes. This way you don't have to open the case at all, just drill 4 small holes on the case.

I succeeded to flash 3 devices so far with this method, but one of them was a bit tricky by the way. Probably the factory assembly job alignment is not 100% consistent ? Or the drilling not perfect ?
I designed a 3D printed template to help drilling the holes, and another template to fix the pogo pins in place.

This is the template for the holes that you temporary fix above the plug :

The printed template fixed on the S60 :

Need to be careful about the angles of the drilled holes (template is aligned to the correct angle, should be thicker though to help this step)

I drill the holes by hand, not using any electric tool, plastic is soft enough to do do

Then you use a 3D printed template with pogo pins connected to the USB/Serial module :

Pogo pins are spring loaded connectors, pretty convenient for this purpose and can be bought on Ali for a few bucks :
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4001166604990.html

STL Files for drill template and pogo pins support :
STL Files.zip

[csakovacs]

Hello,

The 3D design is great! There is an option for the original design (Autodesk Fusion - file format f3d). I would like to make a couple of changes to it!
Thank you for your help!

[zonk-git]

I do not use Fusion for my CAD work, I tried to export STP and DXF files.
PogoPinsD60.zip
Try importing those files in fusion and tell me how it comes.

[Aetohatir]

Hello, I'm having some issues trying to flash my S60.
I did the standard de-solder approach, and while it was a pain it worked fine.
This isn't my first device I (or tried to) flash with tasmota. Did some 8266 devices prior, so I felt comfortable. But now I can't get it to work.

I've connected the pins like in the graphic by @h3lmutek described in the last image.
I checked and double checked the wires and soldered connections. They are fine.
I use an CH340G I used for my other tasmota devices, so I'm confident that it works too.
When I plug it in (and have it set to 5 V, the WiFi chip on the S60 turns on a builds a WiFi net called "ITEAD-10022c5fdb", so I'm at least confident that it receives power. it does not build a WiFi net on 3.3 V.

While writing this I read @helmutacp's post with the tiny 3.3V solder point on the board. And I then tested that (also change the jumper and pin on the CH340G) and it also builds the same WiFi net now on 3.3 V. As that is the "correct" voltage I will now stick to that.

When I try to flash the device with Esp-Flasher (win version) I get
Connecting...................................... Unexpected error: ESP Chip Auto-Detection failed: Failed to connect to Espressif device: No serial data received. For troubleshooting steps visit: https://docs.espressif.com/projects/esptool/en/latest/troubleshooting.html

When I try to flash the device with the Tasmota web installed I get
Installation failed ⚠️ Failed to initialize. Try resetting your device or holding the BOOT button while clicking INSTALL.

I want to use the tasmota32c2.bin firmware.

I feel like I am missing something extremely obvious. I hope I didn't fry my chip because I tried to use 5 V? Do I have to connect a certain pin to ground while starting up like with the ESP8266?

Any suggestion help would be highly appreciated.

My connections (5 V setup)

My connections (3.3 V setup)

My CH340G (5 V setup)

[zonk-git]

@Aetohatir : It looks like you forgot to press the button while powering on the S60 with the CH340, as mentionned in the first post :

The button only has to be pressed a few seconds while powering the device with CH340. After that you can release it.
While in bootloader mode you should not see the Wifi AP
I did not use the 3.3V pad to flash mine

[Aetohatir]

I read that post like three times.
I feel so stupid right now.

Worked first time. oufe

Thanks so much.

[Aetohatir]

Also, @zonk-git I really like your pogo pin solution! Maybe I'll try this next time.