New Sonoff TX V2.0 ? How to flash #14184
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Hi, Today i received my second ordered Sonoff TX T0 1 gang EU. But when i opened the devices i was a little bit confused. It looks like a new version of this switch. The flash pins are simple to find. But how about GPIO0? I add some pictures in this post. As you can see there is also some silicon tape or something added between the switch and the plastic front. Maybe to protect the switch for ghost switching. Little detail: if you remove the front, the PCB with the ESP8266 is little bit sitcked to the front and falls off. ;)
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Replies: 7 comments 25 replies
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Gpio0 is on the bottom row of pins on the ESP8285 chip, number 2 from the right. Image is not very clear, I can't point out good candidates for an easier location, but you could try following the trace on the PCB. When grounding gpio0, it should not hurt if you also ground the next pin to the right, which is gpio4. Makes for an easier resting place for a probe :-) |
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Thank you for your reply. Maybe should i try a little bit more before i open a question. ;) I got it flashed! Simple like the V1.0 one. GND connected to TP0 (KEY 1). Hold it connected when flashing and that's it! I got some better pictures but file transfer between my phone and computer has troubles. I upload better pictures when it's fixed. ;) Thank you for your quick response! :) |
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If you got it flashed, great! |
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I just tried and there's no |
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Just some pictures with natural light. |
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Maybe uasefull to publish something about this V2.0 on this link? https://tasmota.github.io/docs/devices/Sonoff-T1/ Positive: i got no ghost switching! |
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In case someone is looking for this. |
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This is the easiest option. |
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For information and picture this is the TP1/KEY0 on V2.0 model T0EU1C=
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I'm using this: and flashing (HAA, not Tasmota) with NodeMCU PyFlasher app on Mac. |
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I suspected both. Not using a recommended flashing tool. And your USB/serial adapter is a known dubious one, not really able to supply the power for reliable flashing. While this does not mean that it can never work, it is a very clear risk factor (many users have had trouble with that one), but you still need to be very particular about your whole setup, which is all the details, not just what adapter you are using. |
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Thank YOU. I'm just learning that to menage things in my house. |
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Yup, that's the one we recommend. The small U2 near the jumper for 3.3V/5V is a LDO voltage regulator for 150mA of 3.3V power, which is much better. But still, you should triple-check exact details of wiring and booting in your current setup. |
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I wanted to thank you very much! After changing my USB/serial adapter to the one above everything works smoothly! |
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I has used a CP2104 adapter from Robotdyn. BTW i see that in the intruction page there is just no reference to this V2.0 version? Maybe just an idea? |
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There are lots of USB/serial adapters out there, any reason to specifically add this expensive adapter which does not seem to be particularly great? Saw a suggestion that it by default uses 5V signals (unless board altered) which is a bad starting point for ESP chips where specs are for 3.3V signals. |
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Lacking a 3.3V regulator too |
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Specs suggests the chip having an internal voltage regulator of 100 mA, some of which is used by the chip itself. While not as good as the recommended one, at least better than that red "FTDI" fake clone many seem to start with. Found some sales listings suggesting CP2104 providing 180mA of 3.3V power, which would be just fine, but my confidence in larger numbers than the data sheet is not all that great. |
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Just bought two of these TX T2EU which are looking like the same as in the 1st picture. To enter the flashing mode I have chosen the GPIO0 pin of the ESP8285, but instead of it's fiddly direct pin I used the capacitor next to the pin (C23?) which is pretty easy to connect to GND. No issue flashing both devices.
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Hello all, Any ideas ? |
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It is definitely due to the insufficient voltage of 3.3V. I had the same problem with the T1EU1C v2 board. The chip was only sporadically or not recognized at all. The flashing process stopped in the middle. The USB2TTL converter I used worked perfectly in the past with the other Sonoff products and other ESP82xx boards. The solution was to supply the board with a separate power supply of 3.3 volts via AMS1117. |
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Good hint, but I already tried that. Can't flash it using an USB2TTL neither does it get into flash mode when hooked up to a raspberry pi. In the latter case I also tried a lab power supply for providing the 3.3V. Have not used the lab power supply together wit the USB2TTL, though. Will try after the holydays. |
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Exactly what are you doing to "hold IO0 to ground"? That step can be a bit tricky, and depending on the exact board you have. And you need to connect to ground before and while applying power. And of course, triple-checking and verifying the wiring, along with available 3.3V power, is important. |
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I know, did this a couple of times. Before connecting 3.3V I connect the GPIO0 of the ESP Chip to 0V and hold it there while connecting the 3.3V. I've tried this either by connecting the respective 8285 Pin or the testpoint on the board to zero like discribed in detail above. The T3EU2C and the T0EU2C are exactly the same board, the only difference is the number of pieces on the board, the T3 has some additional 433MHz features. Anyhow, flashing the T0 works like a charm, Ive already flashed a couple of those, the T3 does not, regardless what else I try ... I'm also pretty sure it's not broken, I can boot the standard sonoff firmware and the relays are working ... Has anybody done this with a T3 model ? |
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Gpio0 is on the bottom row of pins on the ESP8285 chip, number 2 from the right. Image is not very clear, I can't point out good candidates for an easier location, but you could try following the trace on the PCB. When grounding gpio0, it should not hurt if you also ground the next pin to the right, which is gpio4. Makes for an easier resting place for a probe :-)