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Anthony Bourdain Was a Teller of Often Unappetizing Truths - The New York Times
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<h2 class="css-9wqu2x">
Rebel in the Kitchen: Remembering Anthony Bourdain
</h2>
<h4 class="css-qsd3hm">
The former chef turned writer and TV host exposed the underbelly of restaurant culture and took viewers on far-flung culinary adventures with biting wit and a worldly outlook.
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“In my worldview, food certainly plays a role, hopefully in bringing some kind of enlightenment and understanding and openness and appreciation of other cultures.” Anthony Bourdain became one of the most famous chefs probably living today, partly — in fact mostly — because of his writing and his reporting much more than because of his food. “Work, work, work, work, work.” And I think one of the defining images of Tony Bourdain that will live on is of him cracking President Obama up in a noodle shop in Vietnam. “This is killer.” They’re both so happy to be there. And you can tell that. And that was just not an image of a president eating street food that we had ever seen before. And Bourdain, when he was cooking, his food was classic, pretty upscale. When he went over to broadcasting, he abandoned that world completely. He really was not interested in what rich people were eating in fancy dining rooms. He was really interested in what people were cooking all over the world, making the best of what they had. And he definitely connected both of those traditions in a way that I don’t think anyone had ever done before. He really saw himself once he was a writer as someone whose job it was to poke the aristocracy in a very classic way. “I loathe in principle the idea of adhering to any orthodoxy or strict belief system, because my travels have shown me as I move from place to place that what I thought yesterday is, in fact, completely wrong, again and again.” His first TV show, “A Cook’s Tour,” was focused exclusively on food. “I think almost all modern chefs are impressed by Japanese presentation —” His more recent show that he was filming when he died is called “Parts Unknown.” It’s more of a travel show. There is a food aspect to it. But his mission — as he saw it — was to really give people access to places like Lagos, in Nigeria, or the night markets of Singapore. Places that were, as he thought of them, off the map. He brought them onto the map. “So back in Vietnam and all of the things I need for happiness: Low plastic stool — check. Tiny little plastic table — check. Ooh, something delicious in a bowl.” Bourdain was really smart. He was really brash. His appeal definitely was partly to men, who may previously not have thought of cooking as such a masculine activity. He was irretrievably masculine. “Because that’s the kind of guy I am.” Bourdain’s mother was a copy editor at The New York Times and he was always part of — in fact one of the first — of the new generation of more educated chefs who knew a lot about food and were good at talking about food. He had written, I believe, a couple of mystery novels before he published the article in the New Yorker that really made him famous. That formed the basis of “Kitchen Confidential,” which was his memoir of what it’s really like to work in a kitchen — “Welcome to my world.” — which was full of what some people consider really unappetizing details, but which were totally entrancing for people who were caught up in the idea of this rough and tumble, no holds barred, the idea that working in a kitchen was like being in a rock band and it was sweaty and it was loud and it was stressful. But in some way it made people — it brought people together. It made them better. It pulled their best work out of them. It was very intense the way that he described it. “You know, I wrote a book that, you know, I stand by and that it was an honest representation of what I saw, what I went through, what I, you know — the voices I heard and my own voice at the time. But I provide a validation for a kind of a meathead mentality, a bro, you know, sort of meathead, bro culture that, you know, has not been good, particularly for women.” Bourdain always called himself a classic bored New Jersey suburbs kid. He really tried to escape that as soon as he could, first through music and then through drug use. Lots of chefs, especially back in the ’80s, used cocaine really simply as a way to stay awake during 12-hour shifts. It was something that he was open about. It was something that he struggled with. I know that he quit multiple times and relapsed multiple times. In some ways, that was always in the background of his persona as a chef and it was also in the background of his persona as an individual, as someone who had been through the fire and survived. “I went from a guy, you know, broke, always been, had been broke, never insured, never owned anything, perpetually in debt, hardworking guy to overnight, the guy with the best job in the world.”
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And you can tell that. And that was just not an image of a president eating street food that we had ever seen before. And Bourdain, when he was cooking, his food was classic, pretty upscale. When he went over to broadcasting, he abandoned that world completely. He really was not interested in what rich people were eating in fancy dining rooms. He was really interested in what people were cooking all over the world, making the best of what they had. And he definitely connected both of those traditions in a way that I don’t think anyone had ever done before. 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That formed the basis of “Kitchen Confidential,” which was his memoir of what it’s really like to work in a kitchen — “Welcome to my world.” — which was full of what some people consider really unappetizing details, but which were totally entrancing for people who were caught up in the idea of this rough and tumble, no holds barred, the idea that working in a kitchen was like being in a rock band and it was sweaty and it was loud and it was stressful. But in some way it made people — it brought people together. It made them better. It pulled their best work out of them. It was very intense the way that he described it. “You know, I wrote a book that, you know, I stand by and that it was an honest representation of what I saw, what I went through, what I, you know — the voices I heard and my own voice at the time. 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<figcaption class="css-13o4bnb e1maroi60">
<span class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
The former chef turned writer and TV host exposed the underbelly of restaurant culture and took viewers on far-flung culinary adventures with biting wit and a worldly outlook.
</span>
<span class="css-cch8ym">
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Credit
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Alex Welsh for The New York Times
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By
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<span class="css-1baulvz last-byline" itemprop="name">
<a class="css-mrorfa e1jsehar0" href="http://www.nytimes.com/by/pete-wells">
Pete Wells
</a>
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<time class="css-129k401 e16638kd0" datetime="2018-06-08T13:05:10-04:00">
June 8, 2018
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阅读简体中文版
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<a class="css-1d32glx" data-version="zh-hant" href="https://cn.nytimes.com/usa/20180611/anthony-bourdain-restaurants/zh-hant/" title="Read in Traditional Chinese">
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Anthony Bourdain entered the literary stage with an inside tip, delivered in the gruff whisper of a racetrack tout: Don’t order fish on Mondays.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
It was the part that everybody remembered from his first published work,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1999/04/19/dont-eat-before-reading-this" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
a long essay
</a>
about the unglamorous and sometimes unsavory work of cooks and dishwashers that ran in The New Yorker in 1999 and that made it almost impossible for waiters to sell seafood between Sunday and Tuesday for at least a decade.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
And the advice gave Mr. Bourdain, a journeyman cook and chef nobody had heard of, a new career. Before
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/08/business/media/anthony-bourdain-dead.html" title="">
he was found dead on Friday
</a>
, in what the authorities were treating as a suicide, he was the witty, connected guide who, in memoirs, cookbooks and television shows, would tell you things that others wouldn’t.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
In the glossy, cheerful, relentlessly promotional realms of food and travel writing, that left him a fair number of truths he could claim as his own, and he took full advantage of the situation.
</p>
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
A
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/22/books/review/anthony-bourdain-by-the-book.html" title="">
close reader of Orwell
</a>
, he modeled that first essay and the book that grew out of it,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.harpercollins.com/9780060899226/kitchen-confidential-updated-ed/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
“Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly,”
</a>
on Orwell’s “Down and Out in Paris and London.” While other restaurant writers had helped build the cult of the creative, artistic chef, Mr. Bourdain made folk heroes out of the dishwasher and the line cook — a job description previously known only to restaurant employees. He described their lives and their day-to-day work in concrete, indelible detail.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
When kitchens were being wrapped in a shimmering gauze of glamour, Mr. Bourdain got busy unwrapping them, revealing the injuries and addictions, low wages and high tempers that took a toll on workers.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Among other things, he was one of the first writers to tell the dining public that many high-profile New York restaurants would cease to function without the work and talents of Mexican employees. It was almost a casual aside, yet it suddenly opened new subjects to the purview of food writing: immigration policy, labor conditions, racism.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
He identified with the grunts, portraying himself as a slinger of cheap steaks and French fries. The grunts, in turn, identified with him, not because of his contributions as a chef — who can name an Anthony Bourdain dish? — but because he told the world what the work was really like. And once he left kitchens behind for a career in travel television, he didn’t lead his camera crews on a tour of the world’s most luxurious resorts. He went to Detroit and the Bronx, Libya and Beirut.
</p>
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
“Good food, good eating, is all about blood and organs, cruelty and decay,” he wrote in the opening sentence of that New Yorker piece, and it set the tone for all the work that followed.
</p>
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Image
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<img alt="Mr. Bourdain preparing a meal in the kitchen of his New York apartment in 1997." class="css-r3fift" decoding="async" height="900" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/06/08/dining/08bourdain-appraisal-old/08bourdain-appreciation-archival-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/06/08/dining/08bourdain-appraisal-old/08bourdain-appreciation-archival-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/06/08/dining/08bourdain-appraisal-old/08bourdain-appreciation-archival-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 683w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/06/08/dining/08bourdain-appraisal-old/08bourdain-appreciation-archival-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 918w" width="600"/>
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Mr. Bourdain preparing a meal in the kitchen of his New York apartment in 1997.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Jack Manning/The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
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[Read more of our coverage on Anthony Bourdain’s death:
</em>
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/08/business/media/anthony-bourdain-dead.html" title="">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
Anthony Bourdain, Chef, Travel Host and Author, is Dead at 61
</em>
</a>
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
‘
</em>
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/06/08/business/media/bourdain-death-reactions.html" title="">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
Tony Was a Symphony’: Fans and Friends Remember Anthony Bourdain
</em>
</a>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
]
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Mr. Bourdain was a blood-and-organs kind of guy, and he became identified with his unflinching, at times ostentatious, descriptions of life, death, sex and digestion. Footage of fly-speckled goats’ heads in open-air markets was to his travel shows what harbor sunsets were for other programs.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Although he wasn’t immune to hyperbole, he had an old-school chain-smoking newspaper editor’s hatred of self-serving hypocrisy, particularly in other television hosts. He delighted in mocking celebrity chefs like Guy Fieri (whose
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/14/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-guys-american-kitchen-bar-in-times-square.html" title="">
Times Square restaurant
</a>
he called “the Terrordome”) and Paula Deen (“the worst, most dangerous person to America”).
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
At times Mr. Bourdain’s capacity as truth-teller could bleed into other, less salutary roles: the attention-seeking bully, the purveyor of well-polished shtick, the lecture-circuit fixture who, on cue, would curse like a line cook who has just chopped off the tip of his finger.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
“I do a lot of speaking engagements and sometimes I feel like I’m being paid to curse in front of people who haven’t heard it in a while,” he said in
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2008/04/16/dining/16profane.html" title="">
a 2008 interview
</a>
.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
In the past few months, as accusations of sexual harassment and predatory behavior have
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/18/dining/restaurants-sexual-harassment.html" title="">
shaken the restaurant industry
</a>
, Mr. Bourdain’s swaggering accounts of kitchen life have come in for re-evaluation. He certainly took pleasure in telling outsiders what it was like. Was there some pride in there, too, in belonging to a band of misfits and rule-breakers? Had he helped to popularize a workplace culture in which misogyny and abuse were overlooked, tolerated and sometimes even celebrated?
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“To the extent which my work in ‘Kitchen Confidential’ celebrated or prolonged a culture that allowed the kind of grotesque behaviors we’re hearing about all too frequently is something I think about daily, with real remorse,” he
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://medium.com/@Bourdain/on-reacting-to-bad-news-28bc2c4b9adc" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
wrote on Medium
</a>
in December.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Having regularly heaped disgust and outrage on Harvey Weinstein (who was accused of rape by Asia Argento, Mr. Bourdain’s partner), he was also confronted with serious and deeply unsettling allegations about
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/21/dining/mario-batali-sexual-assault.html" title="">
Mario Batali
</a>
, a friend. “In these current circumstances, one must pick a side,” Mr. Bourdain wrote. “I stand unhesitatingly and unwaveringly with the women.”
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
But if the feminist perspective was relatively new to his repertory, speaking out about sexual abuse was not. Long ago, in “Kitchen Confidential,” he had written about a union shop steward who had inserted his fingers into Mr. Bourdain’s rectum every day, in front of the other kitchen workers. Experiences like this may be common for male cooks, but they are not commonly discussed in public.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Mr. Bourdain was too unsettled, his moral compass too twitchy, to have written an account of kitchen life that was purely celebratory or purely accusatory.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
“Life is complicated. It’s filled with nuance. It’s unsatisfying,” he once said. “If I believe in anything, it is doubt.”
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