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California Today: Angelenos Mourn the Loss of Their Trusted Restaurant Guide - The New York Times
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<img alt="Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning restaurant critic who shaped many people’s view of Los Angeles through its food, in 2015." class="css-rq4mmj" decoding="async" height="600" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/07/23/us/23caltoday1/23caltoday1-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/07/23/us/23caltoday1/23caltoday1-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/07/23/us/23caltoday1/23caltoday1-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/07/23/us/23caltoday1/23caltoday1-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1929w" width="600"/>
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<figcaption class="css-13o4bnb e1maroi60">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning restaurant critic who shaped many people’s view of Los Angeles through its food, in 2015.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
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<span>
Michael Loccisano/Getty Images North America
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</span>
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By
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<a class="css-mrorfa e1jsehar0" href="http://www.nytimes.com/by/adam-nagourney">
Adam Nagourney
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<time class="css-129k401 e16638kd0" datetime="2018-07-23T09:04:59-04:00">
July 23, 2018
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.)
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The police briefing on a
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/21/us/trader-joes-hostage-los-angeles.html?rref=collection%2Fbyline%2Fadam-nagourney&action=click&contentCollection=undefined&region=stream&module=stream_unit&version=latest&contentPlacement=1&pgtype=collection" title="">
hostage-taking at a Trader Joe's
</a>
in Silver Lake that gripped Los Angeles on Saturday afternoon had just ended. But as Mayor Eric M. Garcetti started walking away, reporters stopped him for one more question.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
What did Mr. Garcetti have to say about the death of Jonathan Gold?
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Mr. Gold, 57, was the restaurant critic for The Los Angeles Times. For anyone outside of Los Angeles, it is difficult to appreciate what kind of an outsized figure Mr. Gold was in the fabric of the city he called home: much more than just another restaurant reviewer or hometown institution.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
It was not at all surprising that Mr. Gold’s death merited a question to the mayor, followed by an official tribute from City Hall. Or that it inspired a day of tributes from shocked admirers. (He had been diagnosed with pancreatic cancer in early July.) “We are all so heartbroken,” Roy Choi, the chef behind Kogi, a Korean taco food truck, said on
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BlhTh6fHTBX/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Instagram
</a>
.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
For many people, the joy of Saturday mornings was turning — even before coffee — to Mr. Gold’s latest inside the Saturday section. The more devout of his fans plucked the reviews off the internet the night before.
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
His reviews sent people scurrying to all corners, and produced lines-out-the-door waits at what otherwise might be unknown restaurants, like Jitlada or Chengdu Taste. You could tell they were Jonathan Gold patrons by the way they peered at their phones, consulting his review before ordering.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
His
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://ballots.latimes.com/lists/101-best-restaurants-jonathan-gold/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
annual list
</a>
of the best 101 restaurants was a road map: Working through it (or claiming you did) was a competitive rite of passage. (And so was arguing over some of his rulings: Was
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.latimes.com/food/jonathan-gold/la-fo-gold-vespertine-review-20170902-story.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Vespertine
</a>
in Culver City the best restaurant of the year?) In a world of anonymity, Mr. Gold was unmissable: A friend described him as “a combo of Falstaff and Custer.” He was a celebrity, but he was warm, engaging and lacking pretension.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Saturday mornings are going to feel a little empty now.
</p>
<h2 class="css-1aoo5yy eoo0vm40" id="link-5ce4cb06">
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
More on Mr. Gold
</strong>
</h2>
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Image
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<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
A portrait of Jonathan Gold when he was food critic at L.A. Weekly in 2010.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Anne Cusack/Los Angeles Times, via Associated Press
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• Here’s his obituary in The Los Angeles Times. [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.latimes.com/local/obituaries/la-fo-jonathan-gold-obit-20180721-story.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
The Los Angeles Times
</a>
] Along with notable reviews for the paper. [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.latimes.com/food/jonathan-gold/la-me-jonathan-gold-2018-sg-storygallery.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
The Los Angeles Times
</a>
]
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• Here’s our restaurant critic Pete Wells on Mr. Gold: “Many claims have been made for Gold’s criticism, but he saw his work in modest terms. He wanted to make Los Angeles smaller.” [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/21/obituaries/jonathan-gold-dead-los-angeles-food-critic.html" title="">
The New York Times
</a>
]
</p>
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.latimes.com/opinion/op-ed/la-oe-arellano-jonathan-gold-20180721-story.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
• Gustavo Arellano
</a>
writes that Southern California has lost “one of our greatest and most important
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
literary voices
</strong>
.”
<br/>
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
•
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.latimes.com/food/jonathan-gold/la-fo-ruth-reichl-jonathan-gold-20180721-story.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Ruth Reichl
</a>
reminds us that Mr. Gold could be
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
maddening
</strong>
. Meeting deadline was not his strong suit. But then, she recalls, he’d turn in something so darn good you’d forgive him.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• The chef Kris Yenbamroong credits Mr. Gold with
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
saving Night+Market
</strong>
, which had been struggling until the
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.latimes.com/home/la-fo-jonathan-gold-night-market-20180722-story.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
critic came to visit
</a>
.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• And
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.eater.com/2018/7/21/17598202/jonathan-gold-dies-food-criticism-quotes" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Eater
</a>
lets us hear from Mr. Gold
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
in his own words
</strong>
.
</p>
<h2 class="css-1aoo5yy eoo0vm40" id="link-255eb100">
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
A Sampling of His Finest Work
</strong>
</h2>
</div>
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Image
</span>
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<div data-testid="lazyimage-container" style="height:308.0444444444445px">
</div>
</div>
</div>
<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Mr. Gold after winning the Pulitzer Prize.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Kevork Djansezian/Associated Press
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• On N.W.A., for
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.laweekly.com/news/jonathan-gold-meets-nwa-2385365" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
L.A. Weekly
</a>
, in 1989.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• On Dr. Dre and Snoop Dogg, for
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.rollingstone.com/music/music-news/rolling-in-compton-with-snoop-and-dre-67753/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Rolling Stone
</a>
, in 1993.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• Mr. Gold wrote
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.lafire.com/famous_fires/1992-0429_LA-Riots/LAWEEKLY-2002-0426/2002-0426_laweekly_ANeighborhoodJustWestofDowntown_Gold.htm" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
this essay
</a>
about his neighborhood and L.A. after the riots tore the city apart in 1992.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• He famously ate his way down Pico Boulevard and wrote about it in this 1998 story for
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.laweekly.com/news/the-year-i-ate-pico-boulevard-2129883" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
L.A. Weekly
</a>
.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
•
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.pulitzer.org/winners/jonathan-gold" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Here
</a>
is the set of reviews that won Mr. Gold the 2007 Pulitzer Prize in criticism.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• And here’s a link to the documentary
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.cityofgolddoc.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
“City of Gold.”
</a>
</p>
<h2 class="css-1aoo5yy eoo0vm40" id="link-7c6162cb">
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
In Other News
</strong>
</h2>
</div>
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</aside>
</div>
<div>
<div class="css-79elbk" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper">
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Image
</span>
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<div data-testid="lazyimage-container" style="height:257.77777777777777px">
</div>
</div>
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<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Firefighters watched an air tanker drop retardant while battling the Ferguson Fire on Saturday.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Noah Berger/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
(Please note: We regularly highlight articles on news sites that have limited access for nonsubscribers.)
</em>
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• A raging
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
wildfire
</strong>
continues to burn just outside of Yosemite National Park. [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/bayarea/article/yosemite-fire-contained-ferguson-park-safe-to-go-13095413.php" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
The San Francisco Chronicle
</a>
]
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• Did an innocent man die in prison for a murder committed by the
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
East Area Rapist
</strong>
? [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.sacbee.com/news/local/crime/article215249615.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
The Sacramento Bee
</a>
]
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• The state agency that regulates physicians has stripped the University of Southern California’s former
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
medical school dean
</strong>
of his license to practice medicine. [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-usc-dean-medical-license-20180720-story.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
The Los Angeles Times
</a>
]
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• State leaders want to create a single authority to manage the
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
electric grid
</strong>
for most or all of the West. The plan promises to cut costs for consumers while helping to bolster use of carbon-free power sources. [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/20/business/energy-environment/california-energy-grid-jerry-brown-plan.html" title="">
The New York Times
</a>
]
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• The
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
Pathway Home
</strong>
in Yountville that was the scene of a deadly shooting will not reopen. [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.sfchronicle.com/bayarea/article/Yountville-shootings-claim-another-casualty-13094670.php" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
The San Francisco Chronicle
</a>
]
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• The “other World Cup” — one for
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
rugby
</strong>
— has converged on San Francisco. [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/20/sports/rugby-world-cup-sevens.html" title="">
The New York Times
</a>
]
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
• How is the
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
Clippers’ biggest fan
</strong>
dealing with LeBron’s move to the Lakers? [
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/20/sports/basketball/clipper-darrell-lakers.html" title="">
The New York Times
</a>
]
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>