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A Tuscan Revival, a French Debut - The New York Times
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Coco Pazzo Trattoria
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★
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Italian
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$$
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160 Prince Street
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917-261-6318
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★
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French
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385 Greenwich Street
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July 31, 2018
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Coco Pazzo is back.
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Those of you who did not eat out in Manhattan in the 1990s have no idea what I’m talking about. Those who did may now be having flashbacks to a rustic-chic Tuscan-esque restaurant, Coco Pazzo, which got
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/1991/01/11/arts/restaurants-88492.html" title="">
a three-star Times review from Marian Burros in 1991
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, and to its three New York siblings, all long gone. A restaurateur’s name may be emerging from the mists of time — the name is Pino Luongo — and linked to it, the names of other vanished restaurants,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/1989/09/22/arts/restaurants-452589.html" title="">
Le Madri
</a>
,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/1993/11/05/arts/restaurants-537493.html" title="">
Mad. 61
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,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/1994/03/04/arts/restaurants-365270.html" title="">
Amarcord
</a>
and Tuscan Square. For readers of tabloid gossip columns, images of pasta-twirling models and executives in Armani suits may be coming into focus, along with bold-face-laden squibs about the social scenes at Mr. Luongo’s establishments in Wainscott, N.Y., and on St. Barts.
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If you have trouble believing that spaghetti and fettuccine once attracted what The Times critic Bryan Miller,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/1989/09/22/arts/restaurants-452589.html" title="">
reviewing Le Madri in 1989
</a>
, called “the hugs-and-kisses-I-love-your-hat-Ciao-baby crowd,” it may be useful to remember that this was an era when pasta was commonly thought to be a health food.
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Nobody has seen the Ciao-baby crowd in a while. (We’ll have to send out a search party if it’s not back in 10 more years.) So far that is not who goes to
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.cocopazzonyc.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Coco Pazzo Trattoria
</a>
, which is shaping up to be a reliable and fairly priced neighborhood canteen on the SoHo corner that used to house a deliberately unstylish bar called
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/13/dining/miladys-a-soho-stalwart-shuts-its-doors.html" title="">
Milady’s
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.
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<img alt="Pappa al pomodoro, a Tuscan standby, at Coco Pazzo Trattoria." class="css-r3fift" decoding="async" height="900" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/01/dining/01Rest1/merlin_141621186_1d8caa52-1496-4a99-acfb-befc12faa2e2-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/01/dining/01Rest1/merlin_141621186_1d8caa52-1496-4a99-acfb-befc12faa2e2-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/01/dining/01Rest1/merlin_141621186_1d8caa52-1496-4a99-acfb-befc12faa2e2-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 683w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/01/dining/01Rest1/merlin_141621186_1d8caa52-1496-4a99-acfb-befc12faa2e2-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1366w" width="600"/>
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Pappa al pomodoro, a Tuscan standby, at Coco Pazzo Trattoria.
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Credit...
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Daniel Krieger for The New York Times
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On balance, Mr. Luongo’s version of Tuscan food retrofitted for American appetites may be easier to see for what it is now that it has lost its fashionable gloss. (He is the executive chef; Pedro Cruz is his chef de cuisine.) When you order pappa al pomodoro and taste the juicy olive oil that slicks the warm, basil-flecked, bread-thickened tomato pulp, you’re not earning bragging rights. You’re eating soup, and a very good one. Nobody will think you’re a culinary trailblazer if you get the cacciucco, either, but you can console yourself with the tender shrimp, scallops, cod and clams in the faintly spicy and fennel-scented broth.
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There are two ways to approach dinner at Coco Pazzo Trattoria. (By day the place is a casual outfit called Coco Pazzo Kitchen.) One is to order what Mr. Luongo calls a piatto unico, a helping of pasta next to a related something-extra on one rectangular plate. Baked littlenecks wobble next to a twirl of linguine and, nice surprise here, ribbons of zucchini soaking in a fine white clam sauce that is made with just the firm, sweet bits. Soft chicken-and-ricotta polpettine sit next to rigatoni in sugo, not on top, so you can have pasta first and meatballs second and tell yourself you’re eating like a real Italian.
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Alternatively, you might go with the main courses marked “Per La Tavola.” For once these plates really are meant for sharing: a substantial stack of spiced and roasted baby-back ribs under a warm slaw of cucumbers and tomatoes, or a spread of grilled rib-eye slices served with a separate plate of “Tuscan fries,” distinguishable from the regular kind by their fried rosemary needles.
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Those fries may be awesomely browned one week but ghostly and uncrisp the next. The tagliolini cooked in the cacciucco broth as a second course after all the seafood has been eaten might be 60 seconds away from being al dente. I am not enthusiastic about the slightly tough squid in moist bread crumbs, baked rather than fried, although the dish has a following at Mr. Luongo’s other restaurant, Morso, next to the Ed Koch Queensboro Bridge. The soufflés that the servers try to sell halfway through the meal can be a little soupy.
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
But the blueberry crostata is a genuine pleasure, its crust likably sweet and tender. And you’ll appreciate the clean, bright flavors of a shot of Aperol dumped over grapefruit granita if, like me, you veer off-script and follow your piatto unico with a couple of main courses.
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laid-back restaurants where you can enjoy a pleasant and unpretentious summer meal, have you been to Yves? It opened without much of a splash about two years ago, despite occupying a handsome, spare dining room whose white interior makes the most of the afternoon sunlight that hits its TriBeCa corner, opposite the restaurant Locanda Verde. I missed the original chef’s tenure, but lately I’ve been intrigued by the cooking of Alex Baker, who took over in February.
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She is Paris-trained, having gone to culinary school and worked at Spring and Le Chateaubriand there, before coming to New York to help open Rebelle in 2015. At Yves, she interprets French food with an appealingly relaxed, seasonal attitude.
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In early June she brought little bright-green favas and sticks of asparagus together with fresh-herb pappardelle, and if you’re wondering what makes that French, the answer is a pistou loaded with tarragon and chervil. There was also a reassuringly gentle navarin of lamb, with a small spring garden in addition to the customary carrots and potatoes: grilled baby leeks and asparagus stalks, and tender chard stems.
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Pan-fried steelhead trout is on the menu now, with a smooth, pale-green sauce of cucumbers, melons and avocados pooling beneath a jumble of warm young cucumbers. So is a side dish of recently picked pole beans and string beans charred on the grill and dressed with toasted-almond vinaigrette.
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At Yves, snails with plenty of garlic butter.
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As interpreted by Ms. Baker, mussels Provençal are not the usual mound of black shells in thin pink liquid with a few slices of baguette; the shells are gone, the mussels are good fat ones and their sauce is more concentrated, augmented with tomato paste and roasted cherry tomatoes and garnished with thick-crusted cubes of toasted bread. The snails are more traditional, parsley-garlic butter sloshing around in their shells. If these land snails wondered what they were doing on a bed of seaweed, they didn’t show it.
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There is some unevenness in the kitchen to be worked out. The fluke meunière may be sautéed to a textbook golden crackle, or it could arrive looking as pale as a fish belly. The country ham sandwich could use bread that’s easier to chew than the crust-armored baguettes from Bien Cuit. The restaurant is large, and service tends to arrive in rapid bursts separated by long pauses. The wine list is very lopsided in favor of three-figure bottles, an irritating move for a fairly casual spot.
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But Ms. Baker seems to be making the best of it. It’s hard to be cross with a restaurant that makes its own boursin and brings it out in a dish so big I could never manage to finish it, even with a stack of toasted baguette to smear it on.
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