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The Chinese Crayfish Craze Hits the East Village, at Le Sia - The New York Times
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Le Sia
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11 East Seventh Street
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Aug. 14, 2018
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The rustic little shop held out longer than many other Ukrainian outposts in the East Village. With its shelves of records, tapes, books, newspapers, dyed Easter eggs, the beeswax styluses used to give those eggs their symmetrical patterns, white smocks and blouses with red and black embroidery, and local honey,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2016/06/06/nyregion/with-closing-of-east-village-shop-little-ukraine-grows-smaller.html" title="">
Surma Book & Music Company
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had operated on East Seventh Street since 1943. At other addresses, it went back to 1918.
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Two summers ago,
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it closed
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, going the way of Ukrainian butcher shops selling wrinkled sticks of hunter’s sausage, Ukrainian restaurants offering starchy knobs of halusky, and Ukrainian bars where the customers were downing shots of vodka before that was cool, and kept going after it wasn’t.
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The East Village is a less interesting place without Surma. But the chain-store monoculture that might have seemed inevitable as the Ukrainian community fell away hasn’t been the neighborhood’s fate. Not yet. New Chinese restaurants have sprung up in the area over the past few years faster than the old Eastern European business have died off. In January, one of them moved into Surma’s old address. It’s called Le Sia, and it’s thriving.
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Walk in any weekend night between 6 and 9, and a small throng will be waiting for seats by the entrance, below the kayaks that are stowed up by the ceiling as if this were the garage of somebody’s summer house. During the week, Le Sia takes reservations, but that doesn’t ease the demand by much. On some nights, the crowd is almost exclusively Chinese people of college age or slightly older, many of them lured out of their nearby New York University dorm rooms for steaming pans of shellfish, especially Le Sia’s specialty, crayfish.
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Although a server there described the restaurant to me as “Cajun seafood,” Le Sia is not serving Acadiana-style crayfish. Nor is it seasoning crayfish with the magical, butter-drenched combinations of Southeast Asian and Louisiana flavors like Thai basil-tamarind and lemongrass-ginger that were spawned in Vietnamese kitchens along Bellaire Boulevard in Houston. Yang Liu and Tianye Chen, who own the restaurant along with its chef, Zac Zhang, are following a separate, unbuttered Chinese tradition that they enjoyed before moving to the United States.
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It’s a fairly young one, as Chinese food traditions go. Crayfish, or xiaolongxia, arrived in China sometime in the middle of the 20th century. After regarding the novel ingredient warily for a few decades, cooks built a cuisine around it. Eaters took to it so enthusiastically that by 2016 the Chinese crayfish industry employed five million people and was worth $27 billion. One major farming center is Hubei province, which recently unveiled a 59-foot-long crayfish sculpture that is said to be the world’s largest.
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Its bright-red pincers are raised victoriously
</a>
.
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Le Sia cooks crayfish and other shellfish — lobster, shrimp, and Dungeness and snow crabs — by boiling them first and then clacking them around in a hot wok with one of seven sauces. Each sauce can be further customized to one of four chile-heat levels, from mild to “fire.” Whatever combination of sea animal and seasoning you ask for, it will arrive at the table almost before the words have left your mouth.
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<img alt="Within seconds after an order is placed, it seems, the table is covered with grilled skewers and shellfish in fiery broth." class="css-r3fift" decoding="async" height="400" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/15/dining/15rest2/merlin_142167549_f6149c7b-f334-4c11-9f29-96344e6cdf79-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/15/dining/15rest2/merlin_142167549_f6149c7b-f334-4c11-9f29-96344e6cdf79-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/15/dining/15rest2/merlin_142167549_f6149c7b-f334-4c11-9f29-96344e6cdf79-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/08/15/dining/15rest2/merlin_142167549_f6149c7b-f334-4c11-9f29-96344e6cdf79-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 2048w" width="600"/>
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Within seconds after an order is placed, it seems, the table is covered with grilled skewers and shellfish in fiery broth.
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Christina Holmes for The New York Times
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For many customers the go-to order seems to be “crayfish hot and spicy, spicy.” Hot and spicy sauce, as far as I can make out, is based on soy, miso and garlic; the firepower comes from sliced pickled chiles, but the soy and miso give it a muscular heft. It may be my favorite Le Sia sauce, although it’s a close call between that and its near relative, “numbing and spicy,” which is propelled into tingling ma la territory by Sichuan peppercorns.
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I’m fascinated by the kimchi-lime sauce, which conforms to no seafood-boil tradition I know of; its flavor is angular, hybridized, invigorating and not as fiery as you might expect. The garlic sauce hits just one note, and there will be no prizes for guessing which one. There is also a sauce called “thirteen special-flavor herbal spices.” I tried it twice, with wildly divergent outcomes. The first time it was a wonderful, nuanced aromatic blend of expected and unexpected Chinese spices. On a second try, it tasted like spiced seawater.
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The star ingredient can vary, too. Honesty compels me to note that the California crayfish Le Sia has been serving lately have a sweeter, finer flavor than the ones it was getting from Louisiana in the late spring. This will no doubt cost me some friends in New Orleans. On the other hand, those friendships are already on the rocks over my newspaper’s insistence on calling the crustacean in question crayfish, rather than crawfish.
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Le Sia’s shrimp, in my encounters with it, was bland and powdery. Dungeness crab arrived overcooked, the meat desperately stuck to the shell. Snow crab was much better: sweet and flaky in the legs, although the white bits at the joints were slightly broken down. But every time I ordered lobster it was juicy and sweet. It may be the safest choice, although I haven’t completely given up on the crayfish entirely. At $15 for what looks like a very generous pound, it’s worth taking a chance.
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As for the risks of eating without a pair of plastic gloves, kept in plentiful supply in sealed pouches on the table, or one of the synthetic-fabric black bibs with their swirling red claw-and-antenna designs, that is up to you.
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A vast stretch of the menu is taken up by northern-Chinese skewers of vegetables and animal parts of many kinds. These tend to arrive even faster than the other dishes, if that’s possible. They are not bad as quick, casual snacks, particularly the “King of Kings” hot dog, carved into pink lobes that stick out like cat tongues. But other skewers suggest an assembly-line approach that you don’t find among the better street-corner grills in Flushing, Queens.
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The application of the cumin and red pepper seasoning is often just as heavy on delicate ingredients as full-flavored ones, and the grilling times don’t seem to be monitored closely. Tiny squid legs, lamb kidneys and enoki mushrooms were all dry and overdone.
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So was a main course of quail, purportedly smoked over lemongrass and pine cones. Wok-fried clams in garlic sauce were delicious, though, as were many of the cold appetizers, like a rose formation of pickled radish slices; smashed cucumbers in garlic sauce; and Harbin sausage.
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A specialty of northern China, Harbin sausage immigrated there from Eastern Europe. Pink and dense with smoked pork and fat, it is deeply reminiscent of kielbasa. It’s right at home in the East Village.
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But the chain-store monoculture that might have seemed inevitable as the Ukrainian community fell away hasn’t been the neighborhood’s fate. Not yet. New Chinese restaurants have sprung up in the area over the past few years faster than the old Eastern European business have died off. In January, one of them moved into Surma’s old address. It’s called Le Sia, and it’s thriving.","formats":[]},"$Article:QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzA3MTY2MGI2LWI0MDItNWQwZC05OTYyLTk1NWNiOWYwYjY3Nw==.sprinkledBody.content@filterEmpty.7.content.0":{"__typename":"TextInline","text":"Walk in any weekend night between 6 and 9, and a small throng will be waiting for seats by the entrance, below the kayaks that are stowed up by the ceiling as if this were the garage of somebody’s summer house. During the week, Le Sia takes reservations, but that doesn’t ease the demand by much. 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Yang Liu and Tianye Chen, who own the restaurant along with its chef, Zac Zhang, are following a separate, unbuttered Chinese tradition that they enjoyed before moving to the United States.","formats":[]},"$Article:QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzA3MTY2MGI2LWI0MDItNWQwZC05OTYyLTk1NWNiOWYwYjY3Nw==.sprinkledBody.content@filterEmpty.11.content.0":{"__typename":"TextInline","text":"It’s a fairly young one, as Chinese food traditions go. Crayfish, or xiaolongxia, arrived in China sometime in the middle of the 20th century. After regarding the novel ingredient warily for a few decades, cooks built a cuisine around it. Eaters took to it so enthusiastically that by 2016 the Chinese crayfish industry employed five million people and was worth $27 billion. One major farming center is Hubei province, which recently unveiled a 59-foot-long crayfish sculpture that is said to be the world’s largest. 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It may be my favorite Le Sia sauce, although it’s a close call between that and its near relative, “numbing and spicy,” which is propelled into tingling ma la territory by Sichuan peppercorns.","formats":[]},"$Article:QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzA3MTY2MGI2LWI0MDItNWQwZC05OTYyLTk1NWNiOWYwYjY3Nw==.sprinkledBody.content@filterEmpty.19.content.0":{"__typename":"TextInline","text":"I’m fascinated by the kimchi-lime sauce, which conforms to no seafood-boil tradition I know of; its flavor is angular, hybridized, invigorating and not as fiery as you might expect. The garlic sauce hits just one note, and there will be no prizes for guessing which one. There is also a sauce called “thirteen special-flavor herbal spices.” I tried it twice, with wildly divergent outcomes. The first time it was a wonderful, nuanced aromatic blend of expected and unexpected Chinese spices. On a second try, it tasted like spiced seawater.","formats":[]},"$Article:QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzA3MTY2MGI2LWI0MDItNWQwZC05OTYyLTk1NWNiOWYwYjY3Nw==.sprinkledBody.content@filterEmpty.21.content.0":{"__typename":"TextInline","text":"The star ingredient can vary, too. Honesty compels me to note that the California crayfish Le Sia has been serving lately have a sweeter, finer flavor than the ones it was getting from Louisiana in the late spring. This will no doubt cost me some friends in New Orleans. On the other hand, those friendships are already on the rocks over my newspaper’s insistence on calling the crustacean in question crayfish, rather than crawfish.","formats":[]},"$Article:QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzA3MTY2MGI2LWI0MDItNWQwZC05OTYyLTk1NWNiOWYwYjY3Nw==.sprinkledBody.content@filterEmpty.23.content.0":{"__typename":"TextInline","text":"Le Sia’s shrimp, in my encounters with it, was bland and powdery. Dungeness crab arrived overcooked, the meat desperately stuck to the shell. Snow crab was much better: sweet and flaky in the legs, although the white bits at the joints were slightly broken down. But every time I ordered lobster it was juicy and sweet. It may be the safest choice, although I haven’t completely given up on the crayfish entirely. 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They are not bad as quick, casual snacks, particularly the “King of Kings” hot dog, carved into pink lobes that stick out like cat tongues. But other skewers suggest an assembly-line approach that you don’t find among the better street-corner grills in Flushing, Queens.","formats":[]},"$Article:QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzA3MTY2MGI2LWI0MDItNWQwZC05OTYyLTk1NWNiOWYwYjY3Nw==.sprinkledBody.content@filterEmpty.29.content.0":{"__typename":"TextInline","text":"The application of the cumin and red pepper seasoning is often just as heavy on delicate ingredients as full-flavored ones, and the grilling times don’t seem to be monitored closely. Tiny squid legs, lamb kidneys and enoki mushrooms were all dry and overdone.","formats":[]},"$Article:QXJ0aWNsZTpueXQ6Ly9hcnRpY2xlLzA3MTY2MGI2LWI0MDItNWQwZC05OTYyLTk1NWNiOWYwYjY3Nw==.sprinkledBody.content@filterEmpty.31.content.0":{"__typename":"TextInline","text":"So was a main course of quail, purportedly smoked over lemongrass and pine cones. 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