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The Four Seasons Returns. But Can It Come Back? - The New York Times
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<img alt="After more than 50 years in the Seagram Building, the Four Seasons has moved across Park Avenue." class="css-rq4mmj" decoding="async" height="400" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/12/05/dining/05rest3/merlin_147354855_c182abd4-d8eb-45c4-8ad5-33537b5be8d8-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/12/05/dining/05rest3/merlin_147354855_c182abd4-d8eb-45c4-8ad5-33537b5be8d8-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/12/05/dining/05rest3/merlin_147354855_c182abd4-d8eb-45c4-8ad5-33537b5be8d8-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2018/12/05/dining/05rest3/merlin_147354855_c182abd4-d8eb-45c4-8ad5-33537b5be8d8-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 2048w" width="600"/>
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After more than 50 years in the Seagram Building, the Four Seasons has moved across Park Avenue.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
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Credit...
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<span>
Ellen Silverman for The New York Times
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<dt>
The Four Seasons Restaurant
</dt>
<dd>
<span class="css-z4hz5">
★
</span>
</dd>
<dd class="cuisines">
Seafood
</dd>
<dd>
$$$$
</dd>
<dd class="address">
<span>
42 East 49th Street
</span>
</dd>
<dd>
212-754-9494
</dd>
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By
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Pete Wells
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<time class="css-129k401 e16638kd0" datetime="2018-12-04T12:07:11-05:00">
Dec. 4, 2018
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<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
There is a good case to be made for not reviewing the newly relocated
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.fourseasonsrestaurant.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Four Seasons Restaurant
</a>
at all but just leaving it on the slush pile, and that case can be found in court records involving Julian Niccolini.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Mr. Niccolini has operated the restaurant with Alex von Bidder since the mid-1990s, first at its
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2007/04/04/dining/reviews/04rest.html" title="">
original home
</a>
in the Seagram Building and now, after a two-year hiatus, in a smaller berth on the other side of Park Avenue. Over that time, he has frequently been celebrated for his charm. Less frequently, he has been a defendant in civil and criminal actions arising from things he was accused of having done to women inside the restaurant.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
In 1991,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/nyc-crime/julian-niccolini-accused-harassing-waitress-91-article-1.2247431" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
one of his waitresses sued Mr. Niccolini and the Four Seasons
</a>
, citing sexual harassment. She claimed that for more than three years he had repeatedly rubbed up against her, told her in vulgar terms about his sexual urges and called her “slut,” “lesbian” and other things. Mr. Niccolini denied the charges.
</p>
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<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Julian Niccolini, shown here, has owned the restaurant with Alex von Bidder for more than two decades.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Ellen Silverman for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
In 2014, a former assistant manager filed
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/nyc-crime/seasons-boss-implicated-phone-call-sources-article-1.2248061" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
suit against Mr. Niccolini
</a>
, Mr. von Bidder and the Four Seasons, alleging discrimination. The ex-manager said that after she returned from a maternity leave, the restaurant made it difficult for her to pump breast milk during work hours and, about three months later, fired her and replaced her with a man. In a response filed with the court, the defendants denied the allegations. Both suits were settled under terms that have not been divulged.
</p>
</div>
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<div>
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<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
In 2015, Mr. Niccolini was
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/04/nyregion/co-owner-of-four-seasons-restaurant-is-charged-with-sexual-abuse.html?module=inline" title="">
arrested on a felony charge
</a>
of sexual abuse. According to a prosecutor, he had attacked a woman at the Four Seasons bar “with such force that he ripped her bra open and caused significant scratch marks on her back and bruising on her hip.” After
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/25/nyregion/julian-niccolini-co-owner-of-four-seasons-restaurant-pleads-guilty-to-misdemeanor-assault.html" title="">
pleading guilty
</a>
the following year to a reduced charge of misdemeanor assault, Mr. Niccolini was given a “conditional discharge,” avoiding jail.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
I know people who will never eat at the Four Seasons because they don’t want to give Mr. Niccolini their money. I understand this. I also know people in the food media who think the Four Seasons should not get any coverage as long as Mr. Niccolini owns a piece of it. I understand this, too, but it’s not my view.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
[Julian Niccolini has since been
</em>
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/17/dining/four-seasons-julian-niccolini-fired.html" title="">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
forced to resign
</em>
</a>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
from the restaurant.]
</em>
</p>
</div>
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</div>
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</div>
<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
The dining room evokes and updates Philip Johnson’s design for the original space.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Ellen Silverman for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
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<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Their stance rests, I think, on the idea that writing about powerful men who have been accused of abusing women amounts to condoning the abuse and helping the abusers stay in power. While it’s true that media attention is often like oxygen to restaurants, critics have the power to tell a story other than the one the restaurant is pushing. Even when we’re not writing a pan, a fair assessment often requires weaving shining threads with ugly ones.
</p>
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<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The ugliest threads at the Four Seasons happen to be ugly enough to make many people stay away. But there is beauty in the fabric, too.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The Four Seasons has been a significant force in dining: a pioneer in championing American ingredients and wine; an innovator in bringing contemporary design into the restaurant world; a cultivator of
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/10/nyregion/four-seasons-lunch-spot-for-manhattans-prime-movers-moves-on.html" title="">
an eclectic scene
</a>
that treated political power, financial success and creative talent as coequal branches of a high society that was peculiar to New York.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Most of this happened some time ago. In its last years in the Seagram Building, the Four Seasons had become a shabby but lovely museum of midcentury architecture and design, with martinis that I didn’t mind overpaying for and food that I did. I was curious about its new incarnation, which opened in August, and curiosity is as good a reason as any for a critic to swing into action.
</p>
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</div>
<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Diego Garcia, the chef, has made the Four Seasons a seafood restaurant while retaining some classic dishes.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Ellen Silverman for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
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<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
If I were writing the next chapter in a long history, I’d mention how gracefully Diego Garcia has grown into his new job as the restaurant’s chef. I enjoyed Mr. Garcia’s fish cookery at his last restaurant, a small, bare-bones place in Hell’s Kitchen called
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.gloria-nyc.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Gloria
</a>
, but he seemed limited by the kitchen’s size.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
He works on a grander scale now, with more expensive ingredients and more delicate treatments that still betray his creative streak. He roasts duck because the Four Seasons is famous for it, and makes fresh pasta and risotto because the captains in their black jackets need some place to shave all those white truffles. For all intents and purposes, though, he has turned the Four Seasons into a seafood restaurant, and a very good one.
</p>
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<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Raw scallops are outfitted with green apples and caviar.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Ellen Silverman for The New York Times
</span>
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</figcaption>
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<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
It’s not hard to believe he was once a sous-chef at
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/23/dining/reviews/le-bernardin-in-midtown-manhattan.html" title="">
Le Bernardin
</a>
when you taste, say, the raw scallop slivers in citrus juices, elegantly equipped with tart apple and caviar, or the intensely smooth chowder of tiny, just-cooked clams in a New England-style cream broth that’s pale yellow with butterfat. He knows when to show restraint and when to go all in, taking sea-urchin ravioli that are already head-spinningly rich and draping lobes of sea urchin over them.
</p>
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<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
The roast duck is a Four Seasons favorite that made the jump to the new space.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Ellen Silverman for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
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<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Some of the cooking is boring in the right way. I don’t want surprises in Dover sole à la meunière, and I didn’t get any. It was flawless. The duck will surprise only people who don’t know that duck meat cooked to well-done bastes in its own fat until it is almost a warm confit. Other dishes were boring in the usual sense. The mustard sauce poured around the golden crab cake tasted like cream that was shown a picture of a mustard jar.
</p>
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<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Desserts are in the hands of Bill Yosses, back in New York after working as pastry chef in the White House.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Ellen Silverman for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
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<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The chapter would also depict the return of Bill Yosses. Anybody who ate his desserts before he
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/19/us/politics/white-houses-top-pastry-chef-to-leave-post.html" title="">
disappeared into the White House
</a>
won’t be surprised by how good they are here. They do have a slight Rip Van Winkle quality, suggesting that Mr. Yosses allowed several new waves in pastry to pass him by, but that’s no criticism. He makes a better baba au rhum than almost anyone in town, his chocolate tart with a salted stripe of caramel is both powerful and precise, and his hazelnut financier balanced over roasted pears is more delicious than almost any almond financier you can find.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
He has even improved the restaurant’s signature, the
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://garage.vice.com/en_us/article/vbjq8j/b52s-wigs-interview" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Kate Pierson beehive
</a>
of cotton candy that sails out to the tables of valued guests. (Apparently I’ve joined that club.)
</p>