-
Notifications
You must be signed in to change notification settings - Fork 1
/
review44.html
1055 lines (1048 loc) · 508 KB
/
review44.html
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
205
206
207
208
209
210
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
231
232
233
234
235
236
237
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
284
285
286
287
288
289
290
291
292
293
294
295
296
297
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
307
308
309
310
311
312
313
314
315
316
317
318
319
320
321
322
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
335
336
337
338
339
340
341
342
343
344
345
346
347
348
349
350
351
352
353
354
355
356
357
358
359
360
361
362
363
364
365
366
367
368
369
370
371
372
373
374
375
376
377
378
379
380
381
382
383
384
385
386
387
388
389
390
391
392
393
394
395
396
397
398
399
400
401
402
403
404
405
406
407
408
409
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
417
418
419
420
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
435
436
437
438
439
440
441
442
443
444
445
446
447
448
449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456
457
458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465
466
467
468
469
470
471
472
473
474
475
476
477
478
479
480
481
482
483
484
485
486
487
488
489
490
491
492
493
494
495
496
497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504
505
506
507
508
509
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517
518
519
520
521
522
523
524
525
526
527
528
529
530
531
532
533
534
535
536
537
538
539
540
541
542
543
544
545
546
547
548
549
550
551
552
553
554
555
556
557
558
559
560
561
562
563
564
565
566
567
568
569
570
571
572
573
574
575
576
577
578
579
580
581
582
583
584
585
586
587
588
589
590
591
592
593
594
595
596
597
598
599
600
601
602
603
604
605
606
607
608
609
610
611
612
613
614
615
616
617
618
619
620
621
622
623
624
625
626
627
628
629
630
631
632
633
634
635
636
637
638
639
640
641
642
643
644
645
646
647
648
649
650
651
652
653
654
655
656
657
658
659
660
661
662
663
664
665
666
667
668
669
670
671
672
673
674
675
676
677
678
679
680
681
682
683
684
685
686
687
688
689
690
691
692
693
694
695
696
697
698
699
700
701
702
703
704
705
706
707
708
709
710
711
712
713
714
715
716
717
718
719
720
721
722
723
724
725
726
727
728
729
730
731
732
733
734
735
736
737
738
739
740
741
742
743
744
745
746
747
748
749
750
751
752
753
754
755
756
757
758
759
760
761
762
763
764
765
766
767
768
769
770
771
772
773
774
775
776
777
778
779
780
781
782
783
784
785
786
787
788
789
790
791
792
793
794
795
796
797
798
799
800
801
802
803
804
805
806
807
808
809
810
811
812
813
814
815
816
817
818
819
820
821
822
823
824
825
826
827
828
829
830
831
832
833
834
835
836
837
838
839
840
841
842
843
844
845
846
847
848
849
850
851
852
853
854
855
856
857
858
859
860
861
862
863
864
865
866
867
868
869
870
871
872
873
874
875
876
877
878
879
880
881
882
883
884
885
886
887
888
889
890
891
892
893
894
895
896
897
898
899
900
901
902
903
904
905
906
907
908
909
910
911
912
913
914
915
916
917
918
919
920
921
922
923
924
925
926
927
928
929
930
931
932
933
934
935
936
937
938
939
940
941
942
943
944
945
946
947
948
949
950
951
952
953
954
955
956
957
958
959
960
961
962
963
964
965
966
967
968
969
970
971
972
973
974
975
976
977
978
979
980
981
982
983
984
985
986
987
988
989
990
991
992
993
994
995
996
997
998
999
1000
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html class="story nytapp-vi-article" lang="en" xmlns:og="http://opengraphprotocol.org/schema/">
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8"/>
<title data-rh="true">
Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother - The New York Times
</title>
<meta content="noarchive, max-image-preview:large" data-rh="true" name="robots"/>
<meta content="A tranquil dining room in Chelsea with an inexpensive prix-fixe menu stands out in a crowd of youth-oriented kimchi palaces." data-rh="true" name="description"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html" data-rh="true" property="og:url"/>
<meta content="article" data-rh="true" property="og:type"/>
<meta content="Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother (Published 2018)" data-rh="true" property="og:title"/>
<meta content="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-facebookJumbo.jpg?year=2018&h=550&w=1050&s=af9af4ffc1d980c28c6149c82c391528a5cf052c4d72c369d63797e24374bc37&k=ZQJBKqZ0VN" data-rh="true" property="og:image"/>
<meta content="" data-rh="true" property="og:image:alt"/>
<meta content="A tranquil dining room in Chelsea with an inexpensive prix-fixe menu stands out in a crowd of youth-oriented kimchi palaces." data-rh="true" property="og:description"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html" data-rh="true" property="twitter:url"/>
<meta content="Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother (Published 2018)" data-rh="true" property="twitter:title"/>
<meta content="A tranquil dining room in Chelsea with an inexpensive prix-fixe menu stands out in a crowd of youth-oriented kimchi palaces." data-rh="true" property="twitter:description"/>
<meta content="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-videoSixteenByNine3000.jpg?year=2018&h=1688&w=3000&s=628b083f83e2475b5ff5744316cc92871e9241607a22e2b59e7eebcddfdd3fd1&k=ZQJBKqZ0VN&tw=1" data-rh="true" property="twitter:image"/>
<meta content="" data-rh="true" property="twitter:image:alt"/>
<meta content="summary_large_image" data-rh="true" property="twitter:card"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html" rel="canonical"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="nyt://article/bd8a3a71-1f79-55b7-8e85-b99e5143057c" rel="alternate"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.amp.html" rel="amphtml"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="https://www.nytimes.com/svc/oembed/json/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nytimes.com%2F2018%2F12%2F31%2Fdining%2Fhwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html" rel="alternate" title="Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother" type="application/json+oembed"/>
<script data-rh="true" type="application/ld+json">
{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","description":"A tranquil dining room in Chelsea with an inexpensive prix-fixe menu stands out in a crowd of youth-oriented kimchi palaces.","image":[{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-videoSixteenByNineJumbo1600.jpg","height":900,"width":1600},{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-superJumbo.jpg","height":1365,"width":2048}],"mainEntityOfPage":"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html","author":[{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Person","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/by/pete-wells","name":"Pete Wells"}],"dateModified":"2018-12-31T18:34:57.000Z","datePublished":"2018-12-31T18:34:57.000Z","headline":"Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother","publisher":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightHolder":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"sourceOrganization":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightYear":2022,"isAccessibleForFree":false,"hasPart":{"@type":"WebPageElement","isAccessibleForFree":false,"cssSelector":".meteredContent"},"isPartOf":{"@type":["CreativeWork","Product"],"name":"The New York Times","productID":"nytimes.com:basic"}}
</script>
<script data-rh="true" type="application/ld+json">
{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Review","description":"A tranquil dining room in Chelsea with an inexpensive prix-fixe menu stands out in a crowd of youth-oriented kimchi palaces.","mainEntityOfPage":"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html","sameAs":"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html","author":[{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Person","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/by/pete-wells","name":"Pete Wells"}],"dateModified":"2018-12-31T18:34:57.000Z","datePublished":"2018-12-31T18:34:57.000Z","publisher":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightHolder":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"sourceOrganization":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightYear":2022,"reviewRating":{"@type":"Rating","worstRating":0,"bestRating":4,"ratingValue":2},"itemReviewed":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Restaurant","image":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-thumbWide.jpg","name":"Hwaban","sameAs":"http://hwaban.com","servesCuisine":["Korean"],"priceRange":"$$$ (expensive)","telephone":"917-261-2020","geo":{"@type":"GeoCoordinates","longitude":-73.9938224,"latitude":40.7402921},"hasMenu":"King crab; abalone; dubu (steamed bean curd, chicken and mushroom dumpling); snowy bibimbap; chicken; fish stew; pork belly; salmon; strawberry cake; tropical Pavlova; cheesecake. Three-course fixed price dinner, $55; à la carte dishes, $7 to $12. The wine list is mostly French and covers the bases; there is a brief selection of sakes, two sojus and a worthwhile stash of Korean teas and tisanes.","acceptsReservations":"Yes","address":{"@type":"PostalAddress","addressCountry":"","addressLocality":"Chelsea","addressRegion":"","postalCode":"","streetAddress":"55 West 19th Street"}}}
</script>
<script data-rh="true" type="application/ld+json">
{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","name":"The New York Times","logo":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/misc/NYT_logo_rss_250x40.png","height":40,"width":250},"url":"https://www.nytimes.com/","@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher","diversityPolicy":"https://www.nytco.com/diversity-and-inclusion-at-the-new-york-times/","ethicsPolicy":"https://www.nytco.com/who-we-are/culture/standards-and-ethics/","masthead":"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2020/09/08/admin/the-new-york-times-masthead.html","foundingDate":"1851-09-18","sameAs":"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_New_York_Times"}
</script>
<meta content="2018-12-31T18:34:57.000Z" data-rh="true" property="article:published_time"/>
<meta content="2018-12-31T18:34:57.000Z" data-rh="true" property="article:modified_time"/>
<meta content="en" data-rh="true" http-equiv="Content-Language"/>
<meta content="100000006281515" data-rh="true" name="articleid"/>
<meta content="nyt://article/bd8a3a71-1f79-55b7-8e85-b99e5143057c" data-rh="true" name="nyt_uri"/>
<meta content="pubp://event/810e0147103e4a6788338f68bd699e1f" data-rh="true" name="pubp_event_id"/>
<meta content="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-facebookJumbo.jpg?year=2018&h=550&w=1050&s=af9af4ffc1d980c28c6149c82c391528a5cf052c4d72c369d63797e24374bc37&k=ZQJBKqZ0VN" data-rh="true" name="image"/>
<meta content="By Pete Wells" data-rh="true" name="byl"/>
<meta content="Hwaban,Restaurant,Korean Food,Chelsea,Mihyun Han,Key Kim" data-rh="true" name="news_keywords"/>
<meta content="20181231" data-rh="true" name="pdate"/>
<meta content="Food" data-rh="true" property="article:section"/>
<meta content="Hwaban (Manhattan, NY, Restaurant)" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Restaurants" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Korean Food (Cuisine)" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Chelsea (Manhattan, NY)" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Han, Mihyun" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Kim, Key" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="false" data-rh="true" property="article:opinion"/>
<meta content="metered" data-rh="true" property="article:content_tier"/>
<meta content="dining" data-rh="true" name="CG"/>
<meta content="" data-rh="true" name="SCG"/>
<meta content="restaurant-review" data-rh="true" name="CN"/>
<meta content="" data-rh="true" name="CT"/>
<meta content="article" data-rh="true" name="PT"/>
<meta content="Review" data-rh="true" name="PST"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html" data-rh="true" name="url"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com" data-rh="true" name="msapplication-starturl"/>
<meta content="nyt://article/bd8a3a71-1f79-55b7-8e85-b99e5143057c" data-rh="true" property="al:android:url"/>
<meta content="com.nytimes.android" data-rh="true" property="al:android:package"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" property="al:android:app_name"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" name="twitter:app:name:googleplay"/>
<meta content="com.nytimes.android" data-rh="true" name="twitter:app:id:googleplay"/>
<meta content="nyt://article/bd8a3a71-1f79-55b7-8e85-b99e5143057c" data-rh="true" name="twitter:app:url:googleplay"/>
<meta content="nytimes://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html" data-rh="true" property="al:iphone:url"/>
<meta content="284862083" data-rh="true" property="al:iphone:app_store_id"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" property="al:iphone:app_name"/>
<meta content="nytimes://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html" data-rh="true" property="al:ipad:url"/>
<meta content="357066198" data-rh="true" property="al:ipad:app_store_id"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" property="al:ipad:app_name"/>
<meta content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1" name="viewport"/>
<meta content="9869919170" property="fb:app_id"/>
<meta content="@nytimes" name="twitter:site"/>
<meta content="A0121HXPPTQ" name="slack-app-id"/>
<script>
const override = (new URL(window.location)).searchParams.get('sentryOverride');
if (override || Math.floor(Math.random() * 100) <= 1) {
document.write('<script src="https://js.sentry-cdn.com/7bc8bccf5c254286a99b11c68f6bf4ce.min.js" crossorigin="anonymous">' + '<' + '/script>');
}
</script>
<script>
if (window.Sentry) {
window.Sentry.onLoad(function() {
window.Sentry.init({
maxBreadcrumbs: 30,
release: '406009e4306a66f29d4a81aea1c595ab893fce5e',
environment: 'prd',
beforeSend: function(e, v) {
if (/amazon-adsystem|ads-us|ampproject|amp4ads|pubads|2mdn|chartbeat|gsi|bk_addPageCtx|yimg|BOOMR|boomerang/.test(v.originalException && v.originalException.stack || '')) return null;
return e;
}
});
});
}
</script>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/favicon-d2483f10ef688e6f89e23806b9700298.ico" rel="shortcut icon"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/apple-touch-icon-28865b72953380a40aa43318108876cb.png" rel="apple-touch-icon"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/ios-ipad-144x144-28865b72953380a40aa43318108876cb.png" rel="apple-touch-icon-precomposed" sizes="144×144"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/ios-iphone-114x144-080e7ec6514fdc62bcbb7966d9b257d2.png" rel="apple-touch-icon-precomposed" sizes="114×114"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/ios-default-homescreen-57x57-43808a4cd5333b648057a01624d84960.png" rel="apple-touch-icon-precomposed"/>
<link href="https://g1.nyt.com/fonts/css/web-fonts.b1c035e4560e0216caf8f03326e0430712b61041.css" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css"/>
<link href="/vi-assets/static-assets/global-a390e9d7a067927dd253742a2f0124d4.css" rel="stylesheet"/>
<style>
[data-timezone] { display: none }
</style>
<style data-lights-css="1dv1kvn 1hyfx7x nuvmzp 1k0lris 9e9ivx hnzl8o 6n7j50 1kj7lfb 10m9xeu 1fe7a5q 1f8er69 10488qs 1e1s8k7 15uy5yv jq1cx6 1g7m0tk vxcmzt 113xjf1 1baulvz 1sirvy4 1xlo06v 79elbk 1uhsiac 1k1icib 1w38vn7 1n60tr3 1wo2tr0 q1aqo6 1dtr3u3 jyqt2x 2urdiw 18um6j6 1tel06d 12fr9lp 18z7m18 k008qs 1aor85t 1hqnpie epjblv fwqvlz 17xtcya x15j1o tvohiw 1iwv8en 1n6z4y 1ly73wi rfqw0c 19vbshk l9onyx s99gbd 53u6y8 13pd83m zjzyr8 z3e15g bsn42l sklrp3 1xhl2m hyytny 5nx6oe 9kcu5u 1e85yo t4350i 1r7ky0e ew4tgv z4hz5 170u9t6 1c4e8vg 83hgbf up6b8e 1q2w90k 1bymuyk ui9rw0 1f7ibof fzvsed 123u7tk tkwi90 1wr3we4 10698na nhjhh0 y3sf94 htw48t fozwf3 1r0gz1j 1o0kkht 1bvtpon 4skfbu 9eyi4s 4wep0k 1dtsvfy swbuts 1vxca1d z1t82k ky4dag 1vkm6nb 139djpt 1wa6gzb n3eewq 1gxs0ky 8qgvsz fb7l6r 11jlzyd 1a48zt4 rq4mmj 13o4bnb 16f3y1r cnj6d5 xt80pu 1e2jphy 233int aknsld mrorfa 1u1psjv ccw2r3 129k401 g5piaz 2fttua 1ho5u4o 13o0c9t a7htku 1l3p632 1xdhyk6 1l44abu 2fg4z9 c2jxua r3fift 1pv2nfg ref0xf name 5j8bii duration delay timing-function">
@-webkit-keyframes animation-5j8bii{from{opacity:0;}to{opacity:1;}}@keyframes animation-5j8bii{from{opacity:0;}to{opacity:1;}}.css-1dv1kvn{border:0;-webkit-clip:rect(0 0 0 0);clip:rect(0 0 0 0);height:1px;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;padding:0;position:absolute;width:1px;}.css-1hyfx7x{display:none;}.css-nuvmzp{font-size:14.25px;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:700;text-transform:uppercase;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.7px;-moz-letter-spacing:0.7px;-ms-letter-spacing:0.7px;letter-spacing:0.7px;line-height:19px;}.css-nuvmzp:hover{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}.css-1k0lris{color:#326891;height:12px;margin-left:8px;padding-left:8px;}.css-9e9ivx{display:none;font-size:10px;margin-left:auto;text-transform:uppercase;}.hasLinks .css-9e9ivx{display:block;}@media (min-width:740px){.hasLinks .css-9e9ivx{margin:none;position:absolute;right:20px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.hasLinks .css-9e9ivx{display:none;}}.css-hnzl8o{display:inline-block;font-size:12px;-webkit-transition:color 0.6s ease;transition:color 0.6s ease;color:#121212;}.css-hnzl8o:hover{color:#666;}.css-6n7j50{display:inline;}.css-1kj7lfb{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1kj7lfb{display:inline-block;margin-right:7px;}}.css-10m9xeu{display:block;width:16px;height:16px;}.css-1fe7a5q{display:inline-block;height:16px;vertical-align:sub;width:16px;}.css-1f8er69{border:0;-webkit-clip:rect(0 0 0 0);clip:rect(0 0 0 0);height:1px;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;padding:0;position:absolute;width:1px;border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;background:#fff;display:inline-block;left:44px;text-transform:uppercase;-webkit-transition:none;transition:none;}.css-1f8er69:active,.css-1f8er69:focus{-webkit-clip:auto;clip:auto;overflow:visible;width:auto;height:auto;}.css-1f8er69::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-1f8er69:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-1f8er69:disabled,.css-1f8er69.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-1f8er69:active,.css-1f8er69.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1f8er69:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}.css-1f8er69:focus{margin-top:3px;padding:8px 8px 6px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1f8er69{left:112px;}}.css-10488qs{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-10488qs{display:inline-block;position:relative;}}.css-1e1s8k7{font-size:11px;text-align:center;padding-bottom:25px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1e1s8k7{padding:0 3% 9px;}}.css-1e1s8k7.dockVisible{padding-bottom:45px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1e1s8k7.dockVisible{padding:0 3% 45px;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-1e1s8k7{margin:0 auto;max-width:1200px;}}.NYTApp .css-1e1s8k7{display:none;}@media print{.css-1e1s8k7{display:none;}}.css-15uy5yv{border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:9px;}.css-jq1cx6{color:#666;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;padding:10px 0;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap;}.css-jq1cx6:hover{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}.css-1g7m0tk{color:#326891;}.css-1g7m0tk:visited{color:#326891;}.css-vxcmzt{display:-webkit-inline-box;display:-webkit-inline-flex;display:-ms-inline-flexbox;display:inline-flex;}.css-113xjf1{position:relative;display:-webkit-inline-box;display:-webkit-inline-flex;display:-ms-inline-flexbox;display:inline-flex;vertical-align:top;}.css-1baulvz{display:inline-block;}.css-1sirvy4{padding:0;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-1sirvy4{margin-left:-9px;margin-right:-10px;}}.css-1xlo06v{color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-1xlo06v{margin-right:6px;}}.css-1xlo06v > a,.css-1xlo06v > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-1xlo06v > a:focus,.css-1xlo06v > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-1xlo06v > a:focus,.css-1xlo06v > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-1xlo06v > a:focus-visible,.css-1xlo06v > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1xlo06v > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-1xlo06v:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}.css-79elbk{position:relative;}.css-1uhsiac{height:auto;width:auto;border-radius:100%;background-color:transparent;}.css-1uhsiac:focus{outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-1uhsiac:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-1uhsiac:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1k1icib{display:none;width:215px;position:absolute;background-color:#000;border:1px solid #000;box-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.15);border-radius:4px;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.75rem;line-height:1rem;color:#121212;box-sizing:border-box;top:38px;left:2px;z-index:199;}.css-1k1icib button{width:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:9px;background:transparent;}.css-1k1icib svg{stroke:#fff;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-1k1icib{left:-9px;}}.css-1w38vn7{border:9px inset transparent;display:inline-block;height:0;position:absolute;width:0;border-bottom:12px solid #000;left:4%;top:-21px;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-1w38vn7{left:8%;}}.css-1n60tr3{border:10px inset transparent;display:inline-block;height:0;position:absolute;width:0;border-bottom:14px solid #000;bottom:-15px;left:-10px;}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-1n60tr3{border-bottom:14px solid #000;}}.css-1wo2tr0{font-size:0.75rem;line-height:1.0625rem;}.css-1wo2tr0 strong{font-weight:700;}.css-q1aqo6{height:auto;width:auto;border-radius:30px;background-color:transparent;}.css-q1aqo6:focus{outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 4px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-q1aqo6:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-q1aqo6:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 4px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1dtr3u3{color:#000;font-size:0.75rem;line-height:0.75rem;margin-top:auto;}.css-1dtr3u3 a{color:#000;}.css-jyqt2x{background-color:#fff;border:1px #dfdfdf solid;border-radius:30px;padding:6px;padding:8px 10px 7px;display:inline-block;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-jyqt2x{padding:8px 7px 7px;}}.css-jyqt2x:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;border-color:#dfdfdf;opacity:0.8;}.css-2urdiw{vertical-align:middle;margin-top:-1px;margin-right:5px;overflow:visible;}.css-18um6j6{height:auto;width:auto;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;background-color:#fff;border-radius:100%;}.css-18um6j6:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;border:1px solid #dfdfdf;}.css-18um6j6 .hiddenClass{display:none;}.css-1tel06d{display:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1tel06d{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;width:16px;height:31px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1tel06d{display:none;}}@media print{.css-1tel06d{display:none;}}.css-12fr9lp{height:23px;margin-top:6px;}.css-18z7m18{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-18z7m18{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;margin-top:0;}}@media print{.css-18z7m18{display:block;}}.css-k008qs{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}.css-1aor85t{display:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1aor85t{position:fixed;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;opacity:0;z-index:1;-webkit-transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;width:100%;height:32.063px;background:white;padding:5px 0;top:0;text-align:center;font-family:nyt-cheltenham,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;box-shadow:rgba(0,0,0,0.08) 0 0 5px 1px;border-bottom:1px solid #e2e2e2;}}@media print{.css-1aor85t{position:relative;border:none;display:inline-block;opacity:1 !important;visibility:visible !important;}}.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;max-width:1605px;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;position:relative;width:100%;}@media (min-width:1360px){.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}}@media (min-width:1780px){.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media print{.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-epjblv{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:row;-ms-flex-direction:row;flex-direction:row;max-width:1605px;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:56%;margin-left:calc((100% - 56%) / 2);}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-epjblv{width:53%;margin-left:calc((100% - 53%) / 2);}}@media print{.css-epjblv{display:none;}}.css-fwqvlz{font-family:nyt-cheltenham-small,georgia,'times new roman';font-weight:400;font-size:13px;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.015em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.015em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.015em;letter-spacing:0.015em;margin-top:10.5px;margin-right:auto;white-space:nowrap;overflow:hidden;text-overflow:ellipsis;}.css-17xtcya{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:700;font-size:12.5px;text-transform:uppercase;-webkit-letter-spacing:0;-moz-letter-spacing:0;-ms-letter-spacing:0;letter-spacing:0;margin-top:12.5px;margin-bottom:auto;margin-left:auto;white-space:nowrap;}.css-17xtcya:hover{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}.css-x15j1o{display:inline-block;padding-left:7px;padding-right:7px;font-size:13px;margin-top:10px;margin-bottom:auto;color:#ccc;}.css-tvohiw{margin-top:-1px;margin-bottom:auto;margin-left:auto;z-index:50;box-shadow:-14px 2px 7px -2px rgba(255,255,255,0.7);}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1iwv8en{margin-top:1px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1iwv8en{margin-top:0;}}.css-1n6z4y{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#ccc !important;border-left:1px solid #ccc;margin-left:10px;padding:10px;display:none;}@media print{.css-1n6z4y{display:inline-block;}}.css-1ly73wi{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;margin:-1px;padding:0;border:0;-webkit-clip:rect(0 0 0 0);clip:rect(0 0 0 0);overflow:hidden;}.css-rfqw0c{text-align:center;height:100%;display:block;}.css-19vbshk{color:#ccc;display:none;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.5625rem;font-weight:300;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05rem;letter-spacing:0.05rem;line-height:0.5625rem;margin-left:auto;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-19vbshk{display:inline-block;}}.css-19vbshk p{margin-bottom:auto;margin-right:7px;margin-top:auto;text-transform:none;}.css-l9onyx{color:#ccc;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.5625rem;font-weight:300;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05rem;letter-spacing:0.05rem;line-height:0.5625rem;margin-bottom:9px;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;}.css-s99gbd{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;margin-bottom:1rem;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-s99gbd{-webkit-flex-direction:row;-ms-flex-direction:row;flex-direction:row;height:100%;width:945px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-s99gbd{width:1110px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1280px){.css-s99gbd{width:1170px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-s99gbd{width:1200px;}}@media print{.css-s99gbd{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media print{.css-s99gbd{margin-bottom:1em;display:block;}}.css-53u6y8{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;width:100%;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-53u6y8{margin-left:calc((100% - 600px) / 2);margin-right:0;width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-53u6y8{max-width:600px;width:600px;margin-left:calc((100% - 600px) / 2);}}@media print{.css-53u6y8{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-13pd83m{top:0;position:-webkit-sticky;position:sticky;background-color:white;z-index:902;}@media print{.css-13pd83m{display:none;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-13pd83m{margin-top:3px;}}.css-zjzyr8{width:100%;background-color:#f7f7f5;}.css-z3e15g{position:fixed;opacity:0;-webkit-scroll-events:none;-moz-scroll-events:none;-ms-scroll-events:none;scroll-events:none;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;-webkit-transition:opacity 0.2s;transition:opacity 0.2s;background-color:#fff;pointer-events:none;}.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:50%;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:300px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:300px;}}@media (max-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:50%;}}.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption .css-bsn42l{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutVertical .css-bsn42l{max-width:250px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.sizeSmall.layoutVertical .css-bsn42l{width:250px;}}@media (max-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutVertical .css-bsn42l{max-width:250px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutHorizontal .css-bsn42l{max-width:300px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.sizeSmall.layoutHorizontal .css-bsn42l{width:300px;}}@media (max-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutHorizontal .css-bsn42l{max-width:300px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo .css-bsn42l{width:310px;}}.css-sklrp3{margin:28px 0;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1xhl2m{border-top:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.33);padding-top:24px;}}.css-hyytny{width:100%;height:100%;max-height:150px;position:absolute;z-index:1;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(0,0,0,0.7));}@media (max-width:600px){.css-hyytny{background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(0,0,0,0.7));}}.css-5nx6oe{position:absolute;width:90%;bottom:51px;z-index:2;left:0;right:0;margin:auto;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-5nx6oe{bottom:45px;}}.css-9kcu5u{color:#fff;font-family:nyt-cheltenham,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-size:1.375rem;line-height:1.5rem;font-weight:500;margin-bottom:12px;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-9kcu5u{font-size:1.5rem;line-height:1.75rem;margin-bottom:19px;}}.css-1e85yo{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.8125rem;line-height:0.8125rem;color:#fff;font-weight:500;display:inline-block;padding-right:0.75rem;vertical-align:middle;position:relative;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.03em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.03em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.03em;letter-spacing:0.03em;}.css-1e85yo:first-child{background-image:url('/vi-assets/static-assets/icon-slideshow-3b83378d3d0125cb77d5cc6c291072e2.svg');background-repeat:no-repeat;display:inline-block;width:24px;height:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1e85yo:first-child{width:30px;height:25px;font-size:0.9375rem;line-height:0.9375rem;}}.css-1e85yo:last-child{border-left:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.33);padding-left:0.75rem;}.css-t4350i{font-size:1rem;vertical-align:middle;position:absolute;right:4px;bottom:0;-webkit-transition:right 0.18s ease-out;transition:right 0.18s ease-out;}.css-1r7ky0e .e6idgb70 + .e1h9rw200{margin-top:0;}.css-1r7ky0e .eoo0vm40 + .e1gnsphs0{margin-top:-0.3em;}.css-1r7ky0e .e6idgb70 + .eoo0vm40{margin-top:0;}.css-1r7ky0e .eoo0vm40 + figure{margin-top:1.2rem;}.css-1r7ky0e .e1gnsphs0 + figure{margin-top:1.2rem;}.css-ew4tgv{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ew4tgv{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;margin-right:0;margin-left:auto;width:130px;-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-ew4tgv{width:210px;}}@media print{.css-ew4tgv{display:none;}}.css-z4hz5{color:#c5a257;}.css-170u9t6{margin:20px auto;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-170u9t6{max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-170u9t6{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-1c4e8vg{-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.875rem;-webkit-box-pack:justify;-webkit-justify-content:space-between;-ms-flex-pack:justify;justify-content:space-between;line-height:1.25rem;min-height:26px;padding:5px 0;}.css-1c4e8vg:first-of-type{border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:10px;}.css-1c4e8vg:last-of-type{border-bottom:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-bottom:10px;}.css-1c4e8vg dt{color:#121212;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;font-weight:700;line-height:1.25rem;margin-right:10px;}.Hybrid.DarkTheme .css-1c4e8vg dt{color:#ebebeb;}.css-1c4e8vg dd{color:#333;font-weight:500;border-right:1px solid #ebebeb;display:inline-block;margin-right:10px;padding-right:10px;}.css-1c4e8vg dd:last-of-type{border:none;}@media print{.css-1c4e8vg dd{border-right:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-right:10px;margin-right:10px;display:inline-block;}.css-1c4e8vg dd:last-of-type{border:none;}}.Hybrid.DarkTheme .css-1c4e8vg dd{color:#ccc;}.css-83hgbf{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;-webkit-box-pack:center;-webkit-justify-content:center;-ms-flex-pack:center;justify-content:center;max-width:100%;width:100%;}.css-up6b8e{display:inline-block;}.css-up6b8e i{background-image:url('data:image/svg+xml;utf8,%0A%20%20%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%22http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%22%20viewBox%3D%220%200%2016%2016%22%3E%0A%20%20%3Cpath%0A%20%20%20%20fill%3D%22%23c5a257%22%0A%20%20%20%20d%3D%22M14.34%2C8.83%2C16%2C8l-1.66-.83%2C1.38-1.24-1.82-.38%2C1-1.55-1.74.1h0c.66-.57%2C1.15-1%2C2.65-2.18l-2.7-.84c-.48.44-.87.8-1.21%2C1.14L12%2C1.07l-1.55%2C1L10.07.27%2C8.84%2C1.65%2C8%2C0%2C7.16%2C1.65%2C5.93.27%2C5.55%2C2.09%2C4%2C1.07l.1%2C1.85L2.34%2C2.34%2C2.92%2C4.1%2C1.07%2C4l1%2C1.55L.27%2C5.93%2C1.66%2C7.17%2C0%2C8l1.66.83L.27%2C10.07l1.82.38L1.07%2C12l1.85-.1-.58%2C1.76%2C1.76-.58L4%2C14.93l1.55-1%2C.38%2C1.81%2C1.23-1.38L8%2C16l.84-1.65%2C1.23%2C1.38.38-1.81%2C1.55%2C1-.1-1.85%2C1.76.58-.58-1.76%2C1.85.1-1-1.55%2C1.82-.38ZM8%2C13.14a5.14%2C5.14%2C0%2C1%2C1%2C2.67-9.52l-.48.61a27.9%2C27.9%2C0%2C0%2C0-2.56%2C4L6.14%2C6l-1.36.82%2C3.08%2C4.52C9%2C9.42%2C9.5%2C8.56%2C10.07%2C7.7A18.66%2C18.66%2C0%2C0%2C1%2C12.2%2C5%2C5.13%2C5.13%2C0%2C0%2C1%2C8%2C13.14Z%22%20%2F%3E%0A%20%20%3C%2Fsvg%3E%0A');display:inline-block;height:16px;margin-right:4px;margin-top:-3px;vertical-align:middle;width:16px;}.css-1q2w90k{opacity:1;visibility:visible;-webkit-animation-name:animation-5j8bii;animation-name:animation-5j8bii;-webkit-animation-duration:300ms;animation-duration:300ms;-webkit-animation-delay:0ms;animation-delay:0ms;-webkit-animation-timing-function:ease-out;animation-timing-function:ease-out;}@media print{.css-1q2w90k{display:none;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1q2w90k{position:fixed;width:100%;top:0;left:0;z-index:200;background-color:#fff;border-bottom:none;-webkit-transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1bymuyk{position:relative;border-bottom:1px solid #e2e2e2;}}.css-ui9rw0{background:#fff;border-bottom:1px solid #e2e2e2;height:36px;padding:8px 15px 3px;position:relative;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ui9rw0{background:#fff;padding:10px 15px 6px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ui9rw0{background:transparent;border-bottom:0;padding:4px 15px 2px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ui9rw0{margin:0 auto;max-width:1605px;}}.css-1f7ibof{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-box-pack:space-around;-webkit-justify-content:space-around;-ms-flex-pack:space-around;justify-content:space-around;left:10px;position:absolute;}@media print{.css-1f7ibof{display:none;}}.css-fzvsed{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;border:0;padding:8px 9px;text-transform:uppercase;}.css-fzvsed.hidden{opacity:0;visibility:hidden;}.css-fzvsed.hidden:focus{opacity:1;}.css-fzvsed::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-fzvsed:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-fzvsed:disabled,.css-fzvsed.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-fzvsed:active,.css-fzvsed.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-fzvsed:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-fzvsed{display:none;}}.css-123u7tk{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #ebebeb;color:#333;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:500;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;text-transform:uppercase;display:none;padding:8px 9px 9px;}.css-123u7tk::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-123u7tk:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-123u7tk:disabled,.css-123u7tk.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-123u7tk:active,.css-123u7tk.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-123u7tk:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-123u7tk{border:0;display:inline-block;margin-right:8px;}}.css-tkwi90{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;border:0;}.css-tkwi90::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-tkwi90:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-tkwi90:disabled,.css-tkwi90.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-tkwi90:active,.css-tkwi90.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-tkwi90:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}.css-tkwi90.activeSearchButton{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-tkwi90{padding:8px 9px 9px;}}.css-1wr3we4{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1wr3we4{display:block;position:absolute;left:105px;line-height:19px;top:10px;}}.css-10698na{text-align:center;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-10698na{padding-top:0;}}@media print{.css-10698na a[href]::after{content:'';}.css-10698na svg{fill:black;}}.css-nhjhh0{display:block;width:189px;height:26px;margin:5px auto 0;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-nhjhh0{width:225px;height:31px;margin:4px auto 0;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-nhjhh0{width:195px;height:26px;margin:6px auto 0;}}.css-y3sf94{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-box-pack:space-around;-webkit-justify-content:space-around;-ms-flex-pack:space-around;justify-content:space-around;position:absolute;right:10px;top:9px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-y3sf94{top:4px;}}@media print{.css-y3sf94{display:none;}}.css-htw48t{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:#567b95;border:1px solid #326891;color:#fff;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05em;letter-spacing:0.05em;padding:11px 12px 8px;text-transform:uppercase;display:inline-block;}.css-htw48t::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-htw48t:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-htw48t:disabled,.css-htw48t.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-htw48t:hover{background-color:#326891;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-htw48t{padding:11px 12px 8px;height:11px;color:#fff !important;}}.css-htw48t:hover{border:1px solid #326891;}.css-fozwf3{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;border:0;display:block;padding:7px 9px 9px;}.css-fozwf3.hidden{opacity:0;visibility:hidden;}.css-fozwf3.hidden:focus{opacity:1;}.css-fozwf3::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-fozwf3:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-fozwf3:disabled,.css-fozwf3.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-fozwf3:active,.css-fozwf3.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-fozwf3:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-fozwf3{border:none;line-height:13px;padding:9px 9px 12px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-fozwf3{display:none;}}.css-1r0gz1j{-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px;-webkit-box-pack:space-around;-webkit-justify-content:space-around;-ms-flex-pack:space-around;justify-content:space-around;padding:13px 20px 12px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1r0gz1j{position:relative;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1r0gz1j{-webkit-box-pack:justify;-webkit-justify-content:space-between;-ms-flex-pack:justify;justify-content:space-between;border:none;padding:0;height:0;-webkit-transform:translateY(38px);-ms-transform:translateY(38px);transform:translateY(38px);-webkit-align-items:flex-end;-webkit-box-align:flex-end;-ms-flex-align:flex-end;align-items:flex-end;}}@media print{.css-1r0gz1j{display:none;}}.css-1o0kkht{color:#121212;font-size:0.6875rem;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;display:none;width:auto;font-weight:700;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1o0kkht{text-align:center;width:100%;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1o0kkht{font-size:12px;width:auto;margin-bottom:5px;}}.css-1bvtpon{display:none;}.css-4skfbu{color:#999;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-shrink:0;-ms-flex-negative:0;flex-shrink:0;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:17px;margin-bottom:5px;margin-bottom:0;}@media print{.css-4skfbu{display:none;}}.css-9eyi4s{color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;position:relative;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-9eyi4s{margin-right:6px;}}.css-9eyi4s > a,.css-9eyi4s > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-9eyi4s > a:focus,.css-9eyi4s > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-9eyi4s > a:focus,.css-9eyi4s > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-9eyi4s > a:focus-visible,.css-9eyi4s > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-9eyi4s > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-9eyi4s:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}.css-4wep0k{display:inline-block;vertical-align:middle;width:20px;background-color:#fff;border:1px #dfdfdf solid;border-radius:100%;padding:6px;overflow:initial;vertical-align:middle;height:20px;}.css-4wep0k:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;border:1px solid #dfdfdf;}.css-4wep0k:focus{border-radius:100%;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-4wep0k:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-4wep0k:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1dtsvfy{direction:ltr;display:inline-block;vertical-align:middle;background-color:#fff;color:#333;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;-webkit-transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;border-radius:30px;padding:6px 10px 6px;font-size:0.75rem;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;line-height:0.9375rem;text-align:right;font-weight:500;background-color:#fff;color:#333;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;-webkit-transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;}.css-1dtsvfy:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-1dtsvfy{padding:6px 7px 5px;}}.css-1dtsvfy svg path{fill:#333;-webkit-transition:fill 0.5s;transition:fill 0.5s;}.css-1dtsvfy svg{margin-right:5px;vertical-align:-6px;height:20px;}.css-1dtsvfy svg path{fill:#333;-webkit-transition:fill 0.5s;transition:fill 0.5s;}.css-swbuts{height:18px;width:18px;padding:7px;overflow:visible;vertical-align:middle;cursor:not-allowed;}.css-swbuts g{stroke-width:0.1px;}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-swbuts:hover g,.css-swbuts:focus g{stroke:#333;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-swbuts:hover g,.css-swbuts:focus g{stroke:#666;opacity:1;}}.css-1vxca1d{position:relative;margin:0 auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1vxca1d{margin:0 auto 20px;}}.css-1vxca1d .relatedcoverage + .recirculation{margin-top:20px;}.css-1vxca1d .wrap + .recirculation{margin-top:20px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1vxca1d{padding-top:40px;}}.css-z1t82k{display:none;min-height:280px;}@media (min-width:765px){.css-z1t82k{background-color:#f7f7f7;border-bottom:1px solid #f3f3f3;display:block;padding-bottom:15px;padding-top:15px;margin:0;}}@media print{.css-z1t82k{display:none;}}.css-ky4dag{margin-top:1.5625rem;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag{margin-top:3.75rem;}}.css-ky4dag .e6idgb70{color:#121212;font-weight:700;line-height:0.75rem;margin-bottom:1.25rem;margin-top:0;}@media print{.css-ky4dag .e6idgb70{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-ky4dag .e1h9rw200{margin-bottom:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag .e1h9rw200{position:relative;}}.css-ky4dag .ezdmqqa0{margin-bottom:3px;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ky4dag .ezdmqqa0{margin-bottom:0;}}.css-ky4dag .e1wiw3jv0{color:#333;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag .e1wiw3jv0{text-align:left;}}.css-ky4dag .e16638kd0{display:inline-block;}.css-ky4dag .eakwutd0{margin-bottom:20px;color:#121212;}@media print{.css-ky4dag .eakwutd0{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag .eakwutd0{text-align:left;}}.css-139djpt{color:#121212;font-family:nyt-cheltenham,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-weight:200;font-style:normal;font-size:2.25rem;line-height:2.5rem;margin:0 20px 20px;position:relative;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-139djpt{font-size:2.75rem;line-height:3.125rem;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-139djpt{font-size:2.9375rem;line-height:3.4375rem;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-139djpt{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media print{.css-139djpt{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-139djpt{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-139djpt{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-139djpt{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-139djpt{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-1wa6gzb{color:#999;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-shrink:0;-ms-flex-negative:0;flex-shrink:0;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:17px;margin-bottom:5px;border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:20px;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media print{.css-1wa6gzb{display:none;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1wa6gzb{border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:20px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1wa6gzb{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1wa6gzb{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1wa6gzb{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-1wa6gzb{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-n3eewq{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-style:normal;font-weight:500;font-size:1rem;line-height:1rem;color:#000;padding:21px 20px 15px 22px;text-align:left;padding:13px 15px 12px 15px;color:#fff;}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-n3eewq{position:static;top:auto;left:auto;overflow-y:hidden;font-size:0.875rem;line-height:0.875rem;padding:14px;}}.css-1gxs0ky{font-size:0.75rem;line-height:1.0625rem;font-size:0.875rem;margin-bottom:4px;}.css-1gxs0ky strong{font-weight:700;}.css-8qgvsz{font-weight:700;}.css-fb7l6r{color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-fb7l6r{margin-right:6px;}}.css-fb7l6r > a,.css-fb7l6r > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus-visible,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-fb7l6r:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-fb7l6r{margin-right:6px;}}.css-fb7l6r > a,.css-fb7l6r > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus-visible,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-fb7l6r:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}.css-11jlzyd{background:none;border-radius:10px;background-color:#fff;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;border-radius:17px;display:none;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;height:34px;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.2px;-moz-letter-spacing:0.2px;-ms-letter-spacing:0.2px;letter-spacing:0.2px;line-height:1;padding:5px 0 3px;position:relative;top:-1px;width:82px;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-11jlzyd{width:76px;}}.css-11jlzyd:hover{border-color:#ccc;}@media (hover:none) and (pointer:coarse) and (max-width:600px) and (min-width:375px){.css-11jlzyd{display:inline-block;}}.css-1a48zt4{opacity:1;-webkit-transition:opacity 0.3s 0.2s;transition:opacity 0.3s 0.2s;}.css-rq4mmj{height:auto;width:100%;width:100%;vertical-align:top;}.css-rq4mmj img{width:100%;vertical-align:top;}.css-13o4bnb{color:#666;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;margin:10px 20px 0;text-align:left;}.css-13o4bnb a{color:#326891;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-13o4bnb a:hover,.css-13o4bnb a:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;}}.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;width:calc(50% - 15px);margin:auto 0 15px 15px;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{width:260px;margin-left:15px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:15px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{width:330px;margin-left:15px;}}@media (max-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{margin:auto 0 0 15px;}}.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;margin-top:10px;}.sizeMedium .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;}.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{max-width:none;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:20px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:20px;max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;max-width:720px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeLarge.layoutVertical .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;}}.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:20px;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}}@media print{.css-13o4bnb{display:none;}}.css-16f3y1r{margin-right:7px;color:#666;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-size:0.875rem;line-height:1.125rem;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-16f3y1r{font-size:0.9375rem;line-height:1.25rem;}}.Hybrid.DarkTheme .css-16f3y1r{color:#ccc;}.css-16f3y1r strong{font-weight:700;}.css-16f3y1r em{font-style:italic;}.css-16f3y1r a{color:#326891;}.css-16f3y1r a:visited{color:#326891;}.css-cnj6d5{display:inline;color:#888;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;line-height:1.125rem;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.01em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.01em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.01em;letter-spacing:0.01em;font-size:0.75rem;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-cnj6d5{font-size:0.75rem;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-cnj6d5{font-size:0.8125rem;}}.css-xt80pu{width:100%;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-xt80pu{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-xt80pu{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-xt80pu{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-xt80pu{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-1e2jphy{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;width:100%;-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;margin-bottom:0.25rem;}.css-1e2jphy > img,.css-1e2jphy a > img,.css-1e2jphy div > img{margin-right:10px;}.css-233int{display:inline-block;}.css-aknsld{display:inline-block;margin:0;font-size:0.875rem;line-height:1.125rem;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:700;color:#333;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-aknsld{font-size:0.9375rem;line-height:1.25rem;}}.css-mrorfa{color:#333;-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:1px;-webkit-text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-decoration-thickness:1px;-webkit-text-decoration-color:#ccc;text-decoration-color:#ccc;}.css-mrorfa:hover,.css-mrorfa:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-1u1psjv{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-box-pack:justify;-webkit-justify-content:space-between;-ms-flex-pack:justify;justify-content:space-between;-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;margin:0;-webkit-flex-wrap:nowrap;-ms-flex-wrap:nowrap;flex-wrap:nowrap;}.css-ccw2r3{-webkit-flex-shrink:1;-ms-flex-negative:1;flex-shrink:1;padding-right:1rem;list-style:none;}.css-129k401{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:500;color:#333;margin-bottom:1rem;font-size:0.8125rem;line-height:1rem;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:0;}html.DarkTheme .css-129k401{color:#ccc;}.css-g5piaz{margin-bottom:0.78125rem;margin-top:0;overflow-wrap:break-word;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-size:1.125rem;line-height:1.5625rem;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-g5piaz{margin-bottom:0.9375rem;margin-top:0;}}.css-g5piaz .css-1g7m0tk{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;-webkit-text-decoration-style:solid;text-decoration-style:solid;-webkit-text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-decoration-thickness:1px;-webkit-text-decoration-color:#326891;text-decoration-color:#326891;}.css-g5piaz .css-1g7m0tk:hover,.css-g5piaz .css-1g7m0tk:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-g5piaz{font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1.875rem;}}.css-g5piaz:first-child{margin-top:0;}.css-g5piaz:last-child{margin-bottom:0;}.css-g5piaz.e1h9rw200:last-child{margin-bottom:0.75rem;}.css-g5piaz.eoo0vm40:first-child{margin-top:0.8125rem;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-g5piaz{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-g5piaz{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}.css-g5piaz.eoo0vm40:first-child{margin-top:1.1875rem;}}@media print{.css-g5piaz{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-2fttua{background-color:#f7f7f7;border-bottom:1px solid #f3f3f3;border-top:1px solid #f3f3f3;margin:37px auto;padding-bottom:30px;padding-top:12px;text-align:center;margin-top:60px;min-height:280px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-2fttua{margin:43px auto;}}@media print{.css-2fttua{display:none;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-2fttua{margin-bottom:0;margin-top:0;}}.css-1ho5u4o{list-style:none;margin:0 0 15px;padding:0;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1ho5u4o{display:inline-block;}}.css-13o0c9t{list-style:none;line-height:8px;margin:0 0 35px;padding:0;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-13o0c9t{display:inline-block;}}.css-a7htku{display:inline-block;line-height:20px;padding:0 10px;}.css-a7htku:first-child{border-left:none;}.css-a7htku.desktop{display:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-a7htku.smartphone{display:none;}.css-a7htku.desktop{display:inline-block;}.css-a7htku.mobileOnly{display:none;}}.css-1l3p632{width:100%;max-width:600px;margin:2.3125rem auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1l3p632{width:calc(100% - 40px);}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1l3p632{width:auto;max-width:600px;}}.css-1l3p632 strong{font-weight:700;}.css-1l3p632 em{font-style:italic;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1l3p632{margin:2.6875rem auto;}}.css-1l44abu{font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;color:#666;margin:10px 20px 0 20px;text-align:left;}.css-1l44abu a{color:#326891;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-1l44abu a:hover,.css-1l44abu a:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1l44abu{margin-left:0;margin-right:20px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1l44abu{max-width:px;}}.css-2fg4z9{font-style:italic;}.css-c2jxua{text-transform:uppercase;color:#333;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:500;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05em;letter-spacing:0.05em;font-size:0.8125rem;line-height:1.125rem;margin:35px 20px 3px;text-align:left;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-c2jxua{font-size:0.875rem;line-height:1.25rem;}}.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk{color:#000;border-bottom:2px solid #ccc;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk:hover,.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk:focus{color:#000;border-bottom:2px solid #000;}.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk:visited{color:#000;}@media print{.css-c2jxua{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-c2jxua{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-c2jxua{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-c2jxua{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-c2jxua{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-r3fift{height:auto;width:100%;width:100%;vertical-align:top;}.css-1pv2nfg{margin:37px auto;width:100%;opacity:1;-webkit-transition:opacity 0.15s;transition:opacity 0.15s;-webkit-backface-visibility:hidden;backface-visibility:hidden;z-index:0;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:15px;}.css-1pv2nfg strong{font-weight:700;}.css-1pv2nfg em{font-style:italic;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{width:calc(100% - 40px);display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{width:100%;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:block;}@media print{.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:none;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{width:100%;max-width:600px;margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{width:calc(100% - 40px);}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{max-width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium.layoutVertical{width:420px;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:calc(100% - 40px);}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:310px;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:100%;max-width:1200px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:auto;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:600px;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:945px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:1200px;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:720px;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg{margin:43px auto;}}@media print{.css-1pv2nfg{display:none;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg{margin:15px auto 0;width:100%;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{margin:15px auto 0;width:100%;}}.css-ref0xf{position:relative;margin:37px auto;margin-top:20px;margin-bottom:32px;margin-bottom:20px;}.css-ref0xf:hover .ewenx680{opacity:0.8;}.css-ref0xf:hover .css-t4350i{right:0;}.css-ref0xf strong{font-weight:700;}.css-ref0xf em{font-style:italic;}.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{width:calc(100% - 40px);display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{width:100%;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:block;}@media print{.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:none;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium{width:100%;max-width:600px;margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium{width:calc(100% - 40px);}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium{max-width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium.layoutVertical{width:420px;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:calc(100% - 40px);}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:310px;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:100%;max-width:1200px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:auto;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:600px;}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:945px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:1200px;}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:720px;}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf{margin:43px auto;}}@media print{.css-ref0xf{display:none;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ref0xf{margin-top:25px;}}
</style>
<script type="text/javascript">
// 29.893kB
window.viHeadScriptSize = 29.893;
window.NYTD = {};
window.vi = window.vi || {};
window.vi.pageType = { type: '', edge: 'vi-story'};
(function () { var _f=function(i){window.vi=window.vi||{},window.vi.env=Object.freeze(i),window.hybrid=!1};;_f.apply(null, [{"JKIDD_PATH":"https://a.nytimes.com/svc/nyt/data-layer","ET2_URL":"https://a.et.nytimes.com","ALS_URL":"https://als-svc.nytimes.com","WEDDINGS_PATH":"https://content.api.nytimes.com","GDPR_PATH":"https://us-central1-nyt-dsra-prd.cloudfunctions.net/datagov-dsr-formhandler","RECAPTCHA_SITEKEY":"6LevSGcUAAAAAF-7fVZF05VTRiXvBDAY4vBSPaTF","ABRA_ET_URL":"//et.nytimes.com","NODE_ENV":"production","EXPERIMENTAL_ROUTE_PREFIX":"","ENVIRONMENT":"prd","RELEASE":"406009e4306a66f29d4a81aea1c595ab893fce5e","RELEASE_TAG":"v2449","AUTH_HOST":"https://myaccount.nytimes.com","SWG_PUBLICATION_ID":"nytimes.com","GQL_FETCH_TIMEOUT":"4000","GOOGLE_CLIENT_ID":"1005640118348-amh5tgkq641oru4fbhr3psm3gt2tcc94.apps.googleusercontent.com","STORY_SURROGATE_CONTROL":"max-age=300, stale-if-error=259200, stale-while-revalidate=259200"}]); })();;(function () { var _f=function(){var e=window;e.initWebview=function(e){var i=document.documentElement;if(e.OS){var t=e.OS.toUpperCase();i.classList.add(t)}e.BaseFontSize&&(i.dataset.baseFontSize=e.BaseFontSize)};var i=e.navigator.userAgent.toLowerCase();/iphone|ipod|ipad/.test(i)||void 0===e.config||e.initWebview(e.config)};;_f.apply(null, []); })();;
!function(c,t){var s,p,d,u,g,l=[],
_="object"==typeof c.navigator&&"string"==typeof c.navigator.userAgent&&/iP(ad|hone|od)/.test(
c.navigator.userAgent),f="object"==typeof c.navigator&&c.navigator.sendBeacon,
y=f?_?"xhr_ios":"beacon":"xhr";function v(){var t,e,n=c.crypto||c.msCrypto;if(n)e=n.getRandomValues(
new Uint8Array(18));else for(e=[];e.length<18;)e.push(256*Math.random()^255&(t=t||+new Date)),
t=Math.floor(t/256);return btoa(String.fromCharCode.apply(String,e)).replace(/\+/g,"-").replace(
/\//g,"_")}if(c.nyt_et)try{console.warn("et2 snippet should only load once per page")}catch(t
){}else c.nyt_et=function(){var t,e,n,i,r={pv_id:"",ctx_id:"",intra:!1},o=arguments;function a(r){
l.length&&(function(t,e,n){if("beacon"===y||f&&r)return c.navigator.sendBeacon(t,e)
;var i="undefined"!=typeof XMLHttpRequest?new XMLHttpRequest:new ActiveXObject("Microsoft.XMLHTTP")
;i.open("POST",t),i.withCredentials=!0,i.setRequestHeader("Accept","*/*"),
"string"==typeof e?i.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","text/plain;charset=UTF-8"
):"[object Blob]"==={}.toString.call(e)&&e.type&&i.setRequestHeader("Content-Type",e.type);try{
i.send(e)}catch(t){}}(s+"track",JSON.stringify(l)),l.length=0,clearTimeout(g),g=null)}if(
"string"==typeof o[0]&&/init/.test(o[0])&&(r=function(t,e){var n="",i="",r=!1;if(
"string"==typeof t&&"init"==t&&"object"==typeof e&&("boolean"==typeof e.intranet&&1==e.intranet&&(
r="true"),"string"==typeof e.pv_id_override&&"string"==typeof e.ctx_id_override))if(
24<=e.pv_id_override.length&&24<=e.ctx_id_override.length)n=e.pv_id_override,
i=e.ctx_id_override;else try{console.warn("override id(s) must be >= 24 chars long")}catch(t){}
return{pv_id:n,ctx_id:i,intra:r}}(o[0],o[3]),d=r.pv_id||v(),"init"==o[0]&&!p)){if(p=r.ctx_id||v(),
"string"!=typeof o[1]||!/^http/.test(o[1]))throw new Error("init must include an et host url");if(
s=String(o[1]).replace(/([^\/])$/,"$1/"),"string"!=typeof o[2])throw new Error(
"init must include a source app name");u=o[2]}o[o.length-1]&&"object"==typeof o[o.length-1]&&(
t=o[o.length-1]),t||/init/.test(o[0])?t&&!t.subject&&console.warn(
"event data {} must include a subject"):console.warn(
"when invoked without 'init' or 'pageinit', nyt_et() must include a event data"),s&&t&&t.subject&&(
e=t.subject,delete t.subject,i="page_exit"==e||"ob_click"==(t.eventData||{}).type,
n="page"==e||"page_soft"==e?d:v(),l.push({context_id:p,pageview_id:d,event_id:n,client_lib:"v1.1.4",
sourceApp:u,intranet:r.intra?1:void 0,subject:e,how:i&&_&&f?"beacon_ios":y,client_ts:+new Date,
data:JSON.parse(JSON.stringify(t))}),"send"==o[0]||n==d||i?a(i):g||(g=setTimeout(a,5500)))},
c.nyt_et.get_pageview_id=function(){return d},c.nyt_et.get_context_id=function(){return p},
c.nyt_et.get_host=function(){return s}}(window);
;
(function initWebUnifiedTracking(root) {
var _root;
root = root || (typeof window !== 'undefined' ? window : undefined);
var UnifiedTracking = ((_root = root) === null || _root === void 0 ? void 0 : _root.UnifiedTracking) || {};
UnifiedTracking.context = 'web';
if (!root) {
return UnifiedTracking;
}
root.UnifiedTracking = UnifiedTracking;
UnifiedTracking.sendAnalytic = function sendAnalytic(eventName, dataBlob) {
root.dataLayer = root.dataLayer || [];
if (Array.isArray(root.dataLayer)) {
// Don't use a spread operator here for babel reasons
dataBlob.event = dataBlob.event || eventName;
root.dataLayer.push(dataBlob);
}
return Promise.resolve({
success: true
});
};
return UnifiedTracking;
})(window);
;!function(r){var n,t;r=r||self,n=r.Abra,(t=r.Abra=function(){"use strict";var r=Array.isArray,n=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1];if(null==u||""===u)return n;for(var i=String(u).split("."),a=0;a<i.length&&(n=n[i[a]]);a++);return null==n&&(n=o),null!=n?n:null},t=function(r,n,t){return r(t,n).reduce((function(r,n){return parseFloat(r)+parseFloat(n)}),0)},e=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]/e[1]},u=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]%e[1]},o=function(r,n,t){return r(t,n).reduce((function(r,n){return parseFloat(r)*parseFloat(n)}),1)},i=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1];return void 0===o?-u:u-o};function a(n){return!(r(n)&&0===n.length||!n)}var f=function(r,n,t){for(var e,u=0;u<t.length;u++)if(!a(e=r(t[u],n)))return e;return e},c=function(r,n,t){var e;for(e=0;e<t.length-1;e+=2)if(a(r(t[e],n)))return r(t[e+1],n);return t.length===e+1?r(t[e],n):null},l=function(r,n,t){return!a(r(t,n)[0])},v=function(r,n,t){for(var e,u=0;u<t.length;u++)if(a(e=r(t[u],n)))return e;return e},d=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]===e[1]},s=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]!==e[1]},h=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1];return!(!o||void 0===o.indexOf)&&-1!==o.indexOf(u)},g=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]>e[1]},p=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]>=e[1]},b=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1],i=e[2];return void 0===i?u<o:u<o&&o<i},w=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1],i=e[2];return void 0===i?u<=o:u<=o&&o<=i},y=function(r,n,t){var e=t[0],u=t[1],o=t.slice(2),i=r(e,n);if(!i)return null;if(0===o.length)return null;if(1===o.length)return r(o[0],n);if(4294967295===o[0])return r(o[1],n);for(var a=function(r){var n,t,e,u,o,i=[],a=[t=1732584193,e=4023233417,~t,~e,3285377520],f=[],c=unescape(encodeURI(r))+"\x80",l=c.length;for(f[r=--l/4+2|15]=8*l;~l;)f[l>>2]|=c.charCodeAt(l)<<8*~l--;for(n=l=0;n<r;n+=16){for(t=a;l<80;t=[t[4]+(i[l]=l<16?~~f[n+l]:2*c|c<0)+1518500249+[e&u|~e&o,c=341275144+(e^u^o),882459459+(e&u|e&o|u&o),c+1535694389][l++/5>>2]+((c=t[0])<<5|c>>>27),c,e<<30|e>>>2,u,o])c=i[l-3]^i[l-8]^i[l-14]^i[l-16],e=t[1],u=t[2],o=t[3];for(l=5;l;)a[--l]+=t[l]}return a[0]>>>0}(i+" "+r(u,n));o.length>1;){var f=o.splice(0,2),c=f[0],l=f[1];if(a<=r(c,n))return r(l,n)}return 0===o.length?null:r(o[0],n)},k=function(r,n,t){var e=t[0],u=t[1],o=r(e,n);return null==o?null:new RegExp(u).test(o)};return function(a,m,O,A){void 0===a&&(a={}),void 0===m&&(m={}),void 0===O&&(O={}),void 0===A&&(A=!1);var j=function(){var r={},n=function(n){if(n)for(var t,e=decodeURIComponent(n[1]),u=/(?:^|,)([^,=]+)=([^,]*)/g;t=u.exec(e);){var o=t,i=o[1],a=o[2];r[i]=a||null}};n(document.cookie.match(/(?:^|;) *abra-overrides=([^;]+)/)),n(window.location.search.match(/(?:\?|&)abra-overrides=([^&]+)/));var t=/(?:^|;) *abra-nuke=true(?:;|$)/.test(document.cookie)||/(?:\?|&)abra-nuke=true(?:&|$)/.test(window.location.search);return[r,t]}(),x=j[0],E=j[1];Object.keys(O).forEach((function(r){x[r]=O[r]}));var F,C=A||E,R=(F={var:n,if:c,"===":d,"!==":s,and:f,or:v,"!":l,">":g,">=":p,"<":b,"<=":w,"+":t,"-":i,"*":o,"/":e,"%":u,in:h,abtest_partition:y,regex_match:k,ref:function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n)[0];return U(e)}},function n(t,e){if(e||(e={}),r(t))return t.map((function(r){return n(r,e)}));if(!function(n){return"object"==typeof n&&null!==n&&!r(n)&&1===Object.keys(n).length}(t))return t;var u=function(r){return Object.keys(r)[0]}(t),o=t[u];r(o)||(o=[o]);var i=F[u];if(!i)throw new Error("Unrecognized operation "+u);return i(n,e,o)}),U=function(r){if(!r)return null;var n=x[r];if(void 0===n){if(!C){if(Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(x,r))throw new Error("circular logic");x[r]=void 0,n=R(a[r],m)}void 0===n&&(n=null),x[r]=n}return n};return U}}()).noConflict=function(){return r.Abra=n,t}}(this);
;(function () { var NYTD="undefined"!=typeof window&&window.NYTD?window.NYTD:{};function setupTimeZone(){var e='[data-timezone][data-timezone~="'+(new Date).getHours()+'"] { display: block }',t=document.createElement("style");t.innerHTML=e,document.head.appendChild(t)}function getUserAgent(){return window.navigator.userAgent||window.navigator.vendor||window.opera||""}function userAgentIndicatesiOS(e){return-1!==e.indexOf("nytios")}function userAgentIndicatesAndroid(e){return-1!==e.indexOf("nyt_android")}function addNYTAppClass(){var e=getUserAgent(),t=userAgentIndicatesAndroid(e),n=userAgentIndicatesiOS(e);(t||n)&&(document.documentElement.classList.add("NYTApp"),document.documentElement.classList.add(n?"IOS":"ANDROID"))}function addNYTPageTypeClass(){var e=window.vi.pageType.edge;e&&document.documentElement.classList.add("nytapp-"+e)}function setupPageViewId(){NYTD.PageViewId={},NYTD.PageViewId.update=function(){return"undefined"!=typeof nyt_et&&"function"==typeof window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id?(window.nyt_et("pageinit"),NYTD.PageViewId.current=window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id()):NYTD.PageViewId.current="xxxxxxxx-xxxx-4xxx-yxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxx".replace(/[xy]/g,function(e){var t=16*Math.random()|0;return("x"===e?t:3&t|8).toString(16)}),NYTD.PageViewId.current}}var _f=function(e){e=e||{};try{document.domain="nytimes.com"}catch(e){}window.swgUserInfoXhrObject=new XMLHttpRequest,setupPageViewId(),setupTimeZone(),addNYTAppClass(),addNYTPageTypeClass(),window.nyt_et&&"function"==typeof window.nyt_et&&window.nyt_et("init",vi.env.ET2_URL,"nyt-vi",{subject:"page",canonicalUrl:(document.querySelector("link[rel=canonical]")||{}).href,articleId:(document.querySelector("meta[name=articleid]")||{}).content,nyt_uri:(document.querySelector("meta[name=nyt_uri]")||{}).content,pubpEventId:(document.querySelector("meta[name=pubp_event_id]")||{}).content,url:location.href,referrer:document.referrer||void 0,client_tz_offset:(new Date).getTimezoneOffset(),fastly_headers:e.fastlyHeaders||{}}),"undefined"!=typeof nyt_et&&"function"==typeof window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id?NYTD.PageViewId.current=window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id():NYTD.PageViewId.update()};;_f.apply(null, [{"gqlUrlClient":"https://samizdat-graphql.nytimes.com/graphql/v2","gqlRequestHeaders":{"nyt-app-type":"project-vi","nyt-app-version":"0.0.5","nyt-token":"MIIBIjANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAAOCAQ8AMIIBCgKCAQEAs+/oUCTBmD/cLdmcecrnBMHiU/pxQCn2DDyaPKUOXxi4p0uUSZQzsuq1pJ1m5z1i0YGPd1U1OeGHAChWtqoxC7bFMCXcwnE1oyui9G1uobgpm1GdhtwkR7ta7akVTcsF8zxiXx7DNXIPd2nIJFH83rmkZueKrC4JVaNzjvD+Z03piLn5bHWU6+w+rA+kyJtGgZNTXKyPh6EC6o5N+rknNMG5+CdTq35p8f99WjFawSvYgP9V64kgckbTbtdJ6YhVP58TnuYgr12urtwnIqWP9KSJ1e5vmgf3tunMqWNm6+AnsqNj8mCLdCuc5cEB74CwUeQcP2HQQmbCddBy2y0mEwIDAQAB"},"gqlFetchTimeout":4000,"disablePersistedQueries":false,"fastlyHeaders":{},"initialDeviceType":"smartphone","fastlyAbraConfig":{".ver":"8964.000","HOME_chartbeat":"1_variant","INT_cwv_v2_control_split":"","INT_cwv_dfp_deferAds_0322":"","STORY_cwv_abra_alloc_0222":"","VIDEO_cwv_vhs_defer_1121":"","Wirecutter_Growth_DEMO":"2_grow_variant"},"internalPreviewConfig":{},"serviceWorkerFile":"service-worker-test-1648241273083.js"}]); })();;(function () { var NYTD="undefined"!=typeof window&&window.NYTD?window.NYTD:{};var _f=function(a){window.Abra&&"function"==typeof window.Abra&&(NYTD.Abra=function(t){var r=(t.document.cookie.match(/(?:^|;) *nyt-a=([^;]*)/)||[])[1],n=[];t.dataLayer=t.dataLayer||[],l.config=a.abraConfig||{},l.reportedAllocations={},l.reportedExposures={};var e=a.shouldBypassAbraContextAlloc,o=(a.abraURL||"").match(/current[/]([a-zA-Z-]+).json/i);l.integration=o&&o.length>1?o[1]:"";try{l.version=t.Abra(l.config)(".ver")}catch(a){l.version=0}var i=l.config,c={agent_id:r},s=t.Abra(i,c);function l(a){return l.getAbraSync(a).variant}return l.getAbraSync=function(a){var t=l.reportedAllocations[a];if(void 0!==t)return{variant:t,allocated:!0};var r=null,n=!1;try{r=s(a),n=!0}catch(a){}return{variant:r,allocated:n}},l.reportExposure=function(a){var r=l.getAbraSync(a).variant;void 0!==l.reportedExposures[a]&&r===l.reportedExposures[a]||(l.reportedExposures[a]=r,t.dataLayer.push({event:"ab-expose",abtest:{test:a,variant:r||"0",config_ver:l.version,integration:l.integration}}))},l.alloc=function(){Object.keys(l.config).filter(function(a){return!a.includes(".")}).forEach(function(a){var t=l.getAbraSync(a);t.allocated&&(l.reportedAllocations[a]=t.variant,n.push({test:a,variant:t.variant}))}),t.dataLayer.push({event:"ab-alloc",abtest:{batch:n}}),e&&(l.allAllocations=n)},l.alloc(),l}(this))};;_f.apply(null, [{"abraConfig":{".ver":8979,"UXF_cookingstory_0521":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"UXF_cookingstory_0521",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_cookpromo"]},"STYLN_remove_relatedlinks":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_remove_relatedlinks",4252017622,"0_control_STYLN_remove_relatedlinks",4294967295,"1_remove_relatedlinks"]},"STYLN_recirc_sofs":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"STYLN_recirc_sofs",3006477106,"0_control",3435973836,"1_sofs",3865470565,"2_editorial",4294967295,"3_links"]}]},"STYLN_pharmacy_components":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_pharmacy_components",4080218930,"show",4123168603,"hide",4294967295,"show"]},"STYLN_more_in_storylines_recirc":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_more_in_storylines_recirc",42949672,"0_control",85899345,"1_variant"]},"STYLN_live_updates":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_updates",214748364,"0_control",429496729,"2_live_updates",4294967295,"1_live_updates"]},"STYLN_live_transition_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_transition_alerts",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_polling_push":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_polling_push",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_olympics_push":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_olympics_push",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_noreaster_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_noreaster_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_newupdates":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_newupdates",214748364,"control",4294967295,"variant"]},"STYLN_live_messaging":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_messaging",214748364,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_signup"]},"STYLN_live_derek_chauvin_trial_alerts":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},"show"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_derek_chauvin_trial_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]}]},"STYLN_live_chat":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_chat",21474835,"1_use_sse",408021892,"0_Control",429496729,"1_use_sse"]},"STYLN_live_barrett_hearings_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_barrett_hearings_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",2147483647,"1_show",2362232012,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_liveblog_email":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_liveblog_email",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_signup"]},"STYLN_lb_pinned_video":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_lb_pinned_video",4294967295,"1_pin"]},"STYLN_lb_newposts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_lb_newposts",4080218930,"0_control",4294967295,"1_lb_newposts"]},"STYLN_elevate_series_collections":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_elevate_series_collections",4294967295,"1_elevate_series_collections"]},"STYLN_election_2020_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_election_2020_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_daily_question_block":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_daily_question_block",644245093,"0_control",1288490188,"1_variant"]},"styln-trending-primary-asset":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-trending-primary-asset",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]},"styln-top-links2":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},["hide"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-top-links2",2147483647,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]}]},"styln-primary-assets-block":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-primary-assets-block",1073741823,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]},"styln-music-guide":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},"show"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-music-guide",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]}]},"styln-menu-homepage-link":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-menu-homepage-link",4294967295,"1_Show"]},"styln-menu-color":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-menu-color",2147483647,"0_Control",2576980377,"1_BlueLink",4294967295,"0_Control"]},"styln-amy-chua":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},"show"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-amy-chua",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]}]},"STORY_topical_recirc":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STORY_topical_recirc",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_variant"]},"SJ_welcome_subscriber_app_copy_test_0122":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SJ_welcome_subscriber_app_copy_test_0122",858993458,"0_control",1717986917,"1_visual_update",2576980377,"2_emotional",3435973836,"3_content",4294967295,"4_functional"]}]},"SJ_todayspaper_poc":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"SJ_todayspaper_poc",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_variant"]},"SJ_newsletter_list_01_0222":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SJ_newsletter_list_01_0222",1073741823,"0_control",2147483647,"1_backtosite",3221225471,"2_inboxread",4294967295,"3_variety"]},"SEARCH_FACET_DROPDOWN":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"SEARCH_FACET_DROPDOWN",2147483647,"0_FACET_MULTI_SELECT",4294967295,"1_DYNAMIC_FACET_SELECT"]},"SA_Referral_iframe_0520":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"SA_Referral_iframe_0520",4294967295,"1_useiframe"]},"SA_live_onboarding_01_1221":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_live_onboarding_01_1221",858993458,"0_control",1717986917,"1_noimage_teach",2576980377,"2_image_teach",3435973836,"3_noimage_recognize",4294967295,"4_image_recognize"]},"SA_get_started_now_01_0921":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_get_started_now_01_0921",858993458,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]},"SA_get_started_later_01_0621":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_get_started_later_01_0621",2147483647,"0_control",3435973836,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]},"SA_breadth_step_01_0421":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_breadth_step_01_0421",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]},"SA_app_step_01_0521":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_app_step_01_0521",4294967295,"0_control"]},"ON_User_State_API":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"ON_User_State_API",4294967295,"1_user_state"]},"ON_testIgnoreMe_0902":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["sub"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"ON_testIgnoreMe_0902",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_variant"]}]},"ON_regibundle_throttle_0921":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"ON_regibundle_throttle_0921",429496729,"0_control",4294967295,"1_bau"]},"ON_MAPS_audience_split":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"ON_MAPS_audience_split",2147483647,"0_onboarding",4294967295,"1_maps"]},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_regi_final":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["sub"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_regi_final",214748364,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]}]},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_dummy":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["sub"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_dummy",1073741823,"0_control",2147483647,"1_dock_std",3221225471,"2_dock_exp",4294967295,"3_custom_dock"]}]},"MKT_welcome_ad_stp_1120":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_welcome_ad_stp_1120",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_welcome_stp"]},"MKT_segops_regi_bundle_login_test":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_segops_regi_bundle_login_test",4294967295,"1_login"]},"MKT_not_ready_to_sub_survey":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_not_ready_to_sub_survey",4123168603,"0_control",4294967295,"1_survey"]},"MKT_dfp_hd_paywall_zip":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_dfp_hd_paywall_zip",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_zip"]},"MKT_CKGiftLPTest_creativeredesign":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_CKGiftLPTest_creativeredesign",1431942095,"0_control",2863454695,"1_ck_gift_shortlp",4294967295,"2_ck_gift_longlp"]},"MKT_anon_story_page_offer":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_anon_story_page_offer",3650722201,"2_offer"]},"MAPS_subonly_cards_gs_092021":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MAPS_subonly_cards_gs_092021",1073741823,"2_subandfree",4294967295,"2_subandfree"]}]},"MAPS_foryou_optin_0421":{"if":[{"and":[{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["regi"]]},{"===":[{"ref":"ON_MAPS_audience_split"},"1_maps"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MAPS_foryou_optin_0421",1431942095,"0_control",2863454695,"1_interests",4294967295,"2_auto_optin"]}]},"InvolChurn_CopyUpdate":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"InvolChurn_CopyUpdate",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_concisemessage"]},"DFP_Prebid_Priority_0322":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_Prebid_Priority_0322"]},"dfp_messaging_flexframe_ctr":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"dfp_messaging_flexframe_ctr",322122546,"2_noheadnosummary",644245093,"1_msgInv_noCTA",4294967295,"0_control"]},"DFP_Live_0322":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_Live_0322"]},"DFP_EngMetrics":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_EngMetrics",42949672,"0_control",85899345,"1_hover"]},"dfp_disp_incr":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"dfp_disp_incr",429496729,"0_control",4294967295,"1_test"]},"DFP_blockDetect_0221":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_blockDetect_0221",1073741823,"1_network_detection",4294967295,null]},"DFP_amzn":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_amzn",42949672,"0_control",429642757,"0_control",472540891,"1_amzn_fast_fetch",515490564,"2_adslot_priority",901994671,"2_adslot_priority",944892804,"3_no_mnet"]},"DFP_als_home":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_als_home",4294967295,"1_als"]},"DFP_als":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_als",4294967295,"1_als"]},"dfp_adslot4v2":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"dfp_adslot4v2",4294967295,"1_external"]},"DATAGOV_banner_202110":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DATAGOV_banner_202110",3435973836,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_RejectAll"]},"APP_2021H1_SLS":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"APP_2021H1_SLS",1159641169,"1_share",1932735282,"1_share",4294967295,"1_share"]}]}},"abraURL":"https://a1.nyt.com/abra-config/current/vi-prd.json","shouldBypassAbraContextAlloc":false}]); })();;(function () { var _f=function(e){var r=function(){var r=e.url;try{r+=window.location.search.slice(1).split("&").reduce(function(e,r){return"ip-override"===r.split("=")[0]?"?"+r:e},"")}catch(e){console.warn(e)}var n=new XMLHttpRequest;for(var t in n.withCredentials=!0,n.open("POST",r,!0),n.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","application/json"),e.headers)n.setRequestHeader(t,e.headers[t]);return n.send(e.body),n};window.userXhrObject=r(),window.userXhrRefresh=function(){return window.userXhrObject=r(),window.userXhrObject}};;_f.apply(null, [{"url":"https://samizdat-graphql.nytimes.com/graphql/v2","body":"{\"operationName\":\"UserQuery\",\"variables\":{},\"query\":\" query UserQuery { user { __typename profile { displayName email } userInfo { regiId entitlements demographics { emailSubscriptions wat } } subscriptionDetails { bundleType graceStartDate graceEndDate isFreeTrial hasQueuedSub startDate endDate status hasActiveEntitlements entitlements billingSource promotionTierType subscriptionName } } } \"}","headers":{"nyt-app-type":"project-vi","nyt-app-version":"0.0.5","nyt-token":"MIIBIjANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAAOCAQ8AMIIBCgKCAQEAs+/oUCTBmD/cLdmcecrnBMHiU/pxQCn2DDyaPKUOXxi4p0uUSZQzsuq1pJ1m5z1i0YGPd1U1OeGHAChWtqoxC7bFMCXcwnE1oyui9G1uobgpm1GdhtwkR7ta7akVTcsF8zxiXx7DNXIPd2nIJFH83rmkZueKrC4JVaNzjvD+Z03piLn5bHWU6+w+rA+kyJtGgZNTXKyPh6EC6o5N+rknNMG5+CdTq35p8f99WjFawSvYgP9V64kgckbTbtdJ6YhVP58TnuYgr12urtwnIqWP9KSJ1e5vmgf3tunMqWNm6+AnsqNj8mCLdCuc5cEB74CwUeQcP2HQQmbCddBy2y0mEwIDAQAB"}}]); })();;(function () { var registry=window._interactiveRegistry={};function getId(t){for(;(t=t.parentElement)&&!t.matches("[data-sourceid].interactive-body"););return t?t.getAttribute("data-sourceid"):null}window.registerInteractive=function(t){var e={_subs:{cleanup:[],remount:[]},id:t,on:function(t,r){return this._subs[t].push(r),e}};registry[t]=e},window.getInteractiveBridge=function(t){var e="string"==typeof t?t:getId(t);return registry[e]}; })();;(function () { function swgDataLayer(e){return!!window.dataLayer&&((window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push({event:"impression",module:e}),!0)}function checkSwgOptOut(){if(!window.localStorage)return!1;var e=window.localStorage.getItem("nyt-swgOptOut");if(!e)return!1;var t=parseInt(e,10);return((new Date).getTime()-t)/864e5<1||(window.localStorage.removeItem("nyt-swgOptOut"),!1)}function swgDeferredAccount(e,t){return e.completeDeferredAccountCreation({entitlements:t,consent:!1}).then(function(e){var t=vi.env.AUTH_HOST+"/svc/account/auth/v1/swg-dal-web",n=e.purchaseData.raw.data?e.purchaseData.raw.data:e.purchaseData.raw,o=JSON.parse(n),a={package_name:o.packageName,product_id:o.productId,purchase_token:o.purchaseToken,google_id_token:e.userData.idToken,google_user_email:e.userData.email,google_user_id:e.userData.id,google_user_name:e.userData.name},r=new XMLHttpRequest;r.withCredentials=!0,r.open("POST",t,!0),r.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","application/json"),r.send(JSON.stringify(a)),r.onload=function(){200===r.status?(swgDataLayer({name:"swg",context:"Deferred",label:"Seamless Signin",region:"swg-modal"}),e.complete().then(function(){window.location.reload(!0)})):(e.complete(),window.location=encodeURI(vi.env.AUTH_HOST+"/get-started/swg-link?redirect="+encodeURIComponent(window.location.href)))}}).catch(function(){return!!window.localStorage&&(!window.localStorage.getItem("nyt-swgOptOut")&&(window.localStorage.setItem("nyt-swgOptOut",(new Date).getTime()),!0))}),!0}function hasLogoutCookie(){var e=document.cookie.match("(^|;) ?nyt-auth-action=([^;]*)(;|$)")||null;return e&&"logout"===e[2]}function loginWithGoogle(){return"undefined"!=typeof window&&(-1===document.cookie.indexOf("NYT-S")&&(!0!==checkSwgOptOut()&&(!!window.SWG&&((window.SWG=window.SWG||[]).push(function(e){return e.init(vi.env.SWG_PUBLICATION_ID),!0!==hasLogoutCookie()&&(e.getEntitlements().then(function(t){if(void 0===t||!t.raw)return!1;window.SwGEntitlement=!0;var n={entitlements_token:t.raw};return window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.withCredentials=!0,window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.open("POST",vi.env.AUTH_HOST+"/svc/account/auth/v1/login-swg-web",!0),window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","application/json"),window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.send(JSON.stringify(n)),window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.onload=function(){switch(window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.status){case 200:return swgDataLayer({name:"swg",context:"Seamless",label:"Seamless Signin",region:"login"}),window.location.reload(!0),!0;case 412:return swgDeferredAccount(e,t);default:return!1}},t}).catch(function(){return!1}),!0)}),!0))))}var _f=function(){if(window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.checkSwgResponse=!1,window.SwGEntitlement=!1,-1===document.cookie.indexOf("NYT-S")){var e=document.createElement("script");e.src="https://news.google.com/swg/js/v1/swg.js",e.setAttribute("subscriptions-control","manual"),e.setAttribute("async",!0),e.onload=function(){loginWithGoogle()},document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0].appendChild(e)}};;_f.apply(null, [{"gqlUrlClient":"https://samizdat-graphql.nytimes.com/graphql/v2","gqlRequestHeaders":{"nyt-app-type":"project-vi","nyt-app-version":"0.0.5","nyt-token":"MIIBIjANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAAOCAQ8AMIIBCgKCAQEAs+/oUCTBmD/cLdmcecrnBMHiU/pxQCn2DDyaPKUOXxi4p0uUSZQzsuq1pJ1m5z1i0YGPd1U1OeGHAChWtqoxC7bFMCXcwnE1oyui9G1uobgpm1GdhtwkR7ta7akVTcsF8zxiXx7DNXIPd2nIJFH83rmkZueKrC4JVaNzjvD+Z03piLn5bHWU6+w+rA+kyJtGgZNTXKyPh6EC6o5N+rknNMG5+CdTq35p8f99WjFawSvYgP9V64kgckbTbtdJ6YhVP58TnuYgr12urtwnIqWP9KSJ1e5vmgf3tunMqWNm6+AnsqNj8mCLdCuc5cEB74CwUeQcP2HQQmbCddBy2y0mEwIDAQAB"},"gqlFetchTimeout":4000,"disablePersistedQueries":false,"fastlyHeaders":{},"initialDeviceType":"smartphone","fastlyAbraConfig":{".ver":"8964.000","HOME_chartbeat":"1_variant","INT_cwv_v2_control_split":"","INT_cwv_dfp_deferAds_0322":"","STORY_cwv_abra_alloc_0222":"","VIDEO_cwv_vhs_defer_1121":"","Wirecutter_Growth_DEMO":"2_grow_variant"},"internalPreviewConfig":{},"serviceWorkerFile":"service-worker-test-1648241273083.js"}]); })();;(function () { var _f=function(){"function"!=typeof window.onInitNativeAds&&(window.onInitNativeAds=function(){})};;_f.apply(null, []); })();
</script>
<script>
!function(e){function t(t){for(var n,a,i=t[0],l=t[1],f=t[2],c=0,s=[];c<i.length;c++)a=i[c],Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(o,a)&&o[a]&&s.push(o[a][0]),o[a]=0;for(n in l)Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(l,n)&&(e[n]=l[n]);for(p&&p(t);s.length;)s.shift()();return u.push.apply(u,f||[]),r()}function r(){for(var e,t=0;t<u.length;t++){for(var r=u[t],n=!0,i=1;i<r.length;i++){var l=r[i];0!==o[l]&&(n=!1)}n&&(u.splice(t--,1),e=a(a.s=r[0]))}return e}var n={},o={78:0},u=[];function a(t){if(n[t])return n[t].exports;var r=n[t]={i:t,l:!1,exports:{}};return e[t].call(r.exports,r,r.exports,a),r.l=!0,r.exports}a.m=e,a.c=n,a.d=function(e,t,r){a.o(e,t)||Object.defineProperty(e,t,{enumerable:!0,get:r})},a.r=function(e){"undefined"!=typeof Symbol&&Symbol.toStringTag&&Object.defineProperty(e,Symbol.toStringTag,{value:"Module"}),Object.defineProperty(e,"__esModule",{value:!0})},a.t=function(e,t){if(1&t&&(e=a(e)),8&t)return e;if(4&t&&"object"==typeof e&&e&&e.__esModule)return e;var r=Object.create(null);if(a.r(r),Object.defineProperty(r,"default",{enumerable:!0,value:e}),2&t&&"string"!=typeof e)for(var n in e)a.d(r,n,function(t){return e[t]}.bind(null,n));return r},a.n=function(e){var t=e&&e.__esModule?function(){return e.default}:function(){return e};return a.d(t,"a",t),t},a.o=function(e,t){return Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(e,t)},a.p="/vi-assets/static-assets/";var i=window.webpackJsonp=window.webpackJsonp||[],l=i.push.bind(i);i.push=t,i=i.slice();for(var f=0;f<i.length;f++)t(i[f]);var p=l;r()}([]);
//# sourceMappingURL=runtime~adslot-5dd6d16a504aff085540.js.map
</script>
<script async="" src="/vi-assets/static-assets/adslot-8db91333d85a08f170f7.js">
</script>
<script data-rh="true">
(function () { var _f=function(){const n="1_block";window.adClientUtils={hasActiveToggle:function(o){return i=o,(window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra?window.NYTD.Abra(i):"")!==n;var i}}};;_f.apply(null, []); })();
(function () { var _f=function(n){try{if(!(s=n,!!(window&&window.adClientUtils&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle)&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle(s)))return;if(void 0===e)var e=function(n){var e=document.cookie.match(new RegExp(n+"=([^;]+)"));if(e)return e[1]};!function(){var n=e("nyt-purr");if(!n||"s"!==n.substring(10,11)){var t=document.createElement("script");t.async="async",t.src="//securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js",document.head.appendChild(t)}}();var t=e("nyt-purr"),i=i||{};i.cmd=i.cmd||[],t&&"n"===t.substring(10,11)&&i.cmd.push(function(){i.pubads().setRequestNonPersonalizedAds(1)})}catch(n){console.log(n)}var s};;_f.apply(null, ["dfp_story_toggle"]); })();
(function () { var _f=function(){var t,e,o=50,n=50;function i(t){if(!document.getElementById("3pCheckIframeId")){if(t||(t=1),!document.body){if(t>o)return;return t+=1,setTimeout(i.bind(null,t),n)}var e,a,r;e="https://static01.nyt.com/ads/tpc-check.html",a=document.body,(r=document.createElement("iframe")).src=e,r.id="3pCheckIframeId",r.style="display:none;",r.height=0,r.width=0,a.insertBefore(r,a.firstChild)}}function a(t){if("https://static01.nyt.com"===t.origin)try{"3PCookieSupported"===t.data&&googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","true")}),"3PCookieNotSupported"===t.data&&googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","false")})}catch(t){}}function r(){if(function(){if(Object.prototype.toString.call(window.HTMLElement).indexOf("Constructor")>0)return!0;if("[object SafariRemoteNotification]"===(!window.safari||safari.pushNotification).toString())return!0;try{return window.localStorage&&/Safari/.test(window.navigator.userAgent)}catch(t){return!1}}()){try{window.openDatabase(null,null,null,null)}catch(e){return t(),!0}try{localStorage.length?e():(localStorage.x=1,localStorage.removeItem("x"),e())}catch(o){navigator.cookieEnabled?t():e()}return!0}}!function(){try{googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","unknown")})}catch(t){}}(),t=function(){try{googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","private")})}catch(t){}}||function(){},e=function(){window.addEventListener("message",a,!1),i(0)}||function(){},function(){if(window.webkitRequestFileSystem)return window.webkitRequestFileSystem(window.TEMPORARY,1,e,t),!0}()||r()||function(){if(!window.indexedDB&&(window.PointerEvent||window.MSPointerEvent))return t(),!0}()||e()};;_f.apply(null, ["dfp_story_toggle"]); })();
</script>
<script data-rh="true" id="als-svc">
(function () { var _f=function(e,t,a){var n;if(!(n=a,!!(window&&window.adClientUtils&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle)&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle(n)))return;!function(e){window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra&&window.NYTD.Abra.reportExposure(e)}(a);let i=()=>{var e=new Date,t=e.getFullYear();return e.getMonth()<9&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getMonth()+1,e.getDate()<10&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getDate(),e.getHours()<10&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getHours(),e.getMinutes()<10&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getMinutes(),e.getSeconds()<10&&(t+="0"),t+e.getSeconds()};window.googletag=window.googletag||{},googletag.cmd=googletag.cmd||[];let o=new URLSearchParams(location.search).get("alice_rules_test");var l,s=new XMLHttpRequest,r=window.vi.env.ALS_URL,d=document.querySelector('[name="nyt_uri"]');if(t)l="uri="+(g=t);else if("/"===location.pathname){var g=encodeURIComponent("https://www.nytimes.com/pages/index.html");l="uri="+g}else if(void 0===d||""===d||null===d){var c=e||location.protocol+"//"+location.hostname+location.pathname;l="url="+encodeURIComponent(c)}else{g=encodeURIComponent(d.content);l="uri="+g}var u=document.querySelector('[name="template"]'),w=document.querySelector('[name="prop"]'),m=document.querySelector('[name="plat"]'),p=null==u||null==u.content?"":u.content,_=null==w||null==w.content?"nyt":w.content,b=null==m||null==m.content?"web":m.content;window.innerWidth<740&&(_="mnyt",b="mweb");var v=window.localStorage.getItem("als_test_clientside"),f=null;window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=v&&0!==v.length?v:"empty_empty_empty_empty_empty_"+i(),t=f||e;googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",t)});var y=window.localStorage.getItem("mktg"),h=null;window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=h||y;e&&googletag.pubads().setTargeting("mktg",e)});var U,L=window.localStorage.getItem("bt");window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=U||L;e&&googletag.pubads().setTargeting("bt",e)});var T=window.localStorage.getItem("sub"),S=null;window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=S||T;e&&googletag.pubads().setTargeting("sub",e)}),l=null==o?l:l+"&alice_rules_test="+o,s.open("GET",r+"/als?"+l+"&typ="+p+"&prop="+_+"&plat="+b,!0),s.withCredentials=!0,s.send(),s.onerror=function(){var e="reqfailed_reqfailed_reqfailed_reqfailed_reqfailed_"+i();f=e,window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",e)});var t={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-reqfail-"+l}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(t)},s.onreadystatechange=function(){if(4===s.readyState)if(200===s.status){var e=JSON.parse(s.responseText);f=e.als_test_clientside&&0!==e.als_test_clientside.length?e.als_test_clientside:"bou_bou_bou_bou_bou_"+i(),void 0!==e.User&&(void 0!==e.User.mktg&&(h=e.User.mktg,window.localStorage.setItem("mktg",e.User.mktg)),void 0!==e.User.bt&&(U=e.User.bt,window.localStorage.setItem("bt",e.User.bt)),void 0!==e.User.sub&&(S=e.User.sub,window.localStorage.setItem("sub",e.User.sub))),window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){if(e.als_test_clientside&&0!==e.als_test_clientside.length)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",e.als_test_clientside),window.localStorage.setItem("als_test_clientside","ls-"+e.als_test_clientside);else{var t=void 0===e.als_test_clientside?"undefined_undefined_undefined_undefined_undefined_"+i():"blank_blank_blank_blank_blank_"+i();googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",t);var a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-test-client-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(void 0!==e.User){if(h)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("mktg",h);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-mktg-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(void 0!==U)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("bt",U);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-bt-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(S)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("sub",S);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-sub-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}(e.User.lucidC1||e.User.lucidC2||e.User.lucidC3||e.User.lucidC4||e.User.lucidC5)&&dataLayer.push({event:"lucidtest",c1_val:e.User.lucidC1,c2_val:e.User.lucidC2,c3_val:e.User.lucidC3,c4_val:e.User.lucidC4,c5_val:e.User.lucidC5})}else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-user-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(void 0!==e.Asset)for(var n in e.Asset){var o=e.Asset[n];if(o)googletag.pubads().setTargeting(n,o);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-"+n+"-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}}else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-asset-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}})}else{s.responseText.substring(0,40);var t="error_error_"+s.status+"_error_error_"+i();window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",t)});var a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-ajaxreq-"+s.status+"-"+l}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}}};;_f.apply(null, [null,null,"als_toggle"]); })();
</script>
<script data-rh="true" id="adslot-config">
(function() {
var AdSlot4=function(){"use strict";function i(){return window.AdSlot4=window.AdSlot4||{},window.AdSlot4.cmd=window.AdSlot4.cmd||[],window.AdSlot4}function n(){return!("undefined"==typeof window||!window.document||!window.document.createElement)}function t(e){return-1!==document.cookie.indexOf(e)}function o(e){var n={PURR_AcceptableTrackers:0,PURR_AdConfiguration:5,PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI:2,PURR_DataProcessingConsentUI:3,PURR_AcceptableTrackers_v2:4,PURR_AdConfiguration_v2:5,PURR_DataProcessingPreferenceUI:6,PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI_v2:7,PURR_CaliforniaNoticesUI:8,PURR_EmailMarketingOptInUI:9,PURR_DeleteIPAddress:10,PURR_AdConfiguration_v3:11},t=function(e){e=("; "+document.cookie).split("; "+e+"=");return 2===e.length?e.pop().split(";").shift():null}(e),o={};return Object.keys(n).forEach(function(e){o[e]=function(e,n){n=new RegExp("^.{"+n+"}(.)"),n=e.match(n);return(null==n?void 0:n[1])||""}(t,n[e])}),d.forEach(function(n){Object.keys(n.valueMapping).forEach(function(e){n.valueMapping[e]===o[n.name]&&(o[n.name]=e)})}),o}function a(){var e;try{return function(){if("undefined"==typeof window)return!1;var e=window.navigator.userAgent||window.navigator.vendor,n=-1!==e.indexOf("nyt_android"),t=-1!==e.indexOf("nytios"),o=-1!==e.indexOf("nyt_xwords_ios"),e=-1!==e.indexOf("Crosswords");return n||t||o||e}()?null!==(e=null===window||void 0===window?void 0:window.config)&&void 0!==e&&e.PurrDirectives?window.config.PurrDirectives:t("override-purr")?o("override-purr"):r({},c):t("nyt-purr")?o("nyt-purr"):r({},c)}catch(e){return console.warn("can’t get directives from cookie or config",e),r({},c)}}var r=function(){return(r=Object.assign||function(e){for(var n,t=1,o=arguments.length;t<o;t++)for(var i in n=arguments[t])Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(n,i)&&(e[i]=n[i]);return e}).apply(this,arguments)},d=[{name:"PURR_AcceptableTrackers",valueMapping:{controllers:"c",processors:"p"}},{name:"PURR_AdConfiguration",valueMapping:{full:"f",npa:"n","adluce-socrates":"s"}},{name:"PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s"}},{name:"PURR_DataProcessingConsentUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s"}},{name:"PURR_AcceptableTrackers_v2",valueMapping:{controllers:"c",processors:"p",essentials:"e"}},{name:"PURR_AdConfiguration_v2",valueMapping:{full:"f",rdp:"r",npa:"n",adluce:"a","adluce-socrates":"s"}},{name:"PURR_DataProcessingPreferenceUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h","allow-opt-out":"o","allow-opt-in":"i","allow-opt-in-or-out":"a"}},{name:"PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI_v2",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s","show-opted-out":"o"}},{name:"PURR_CaliforniaNoticesUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s"}},{name:"PURR_EmailMarketingOptInUI",valueMapping:{checked:"c",unchecked:"u"}},{name:"PURR_DeleteIPAddress",valueMapping:{delete:"d",keep:"k"}},{name:"PURR_AdConfiguration_v3",valueMapping:{full:"f",rdp:"r",npa:"n",ltd:"l","adluce-socrates":"s"}}],c={PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI:"hide",PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI_v2:"hide",PURR_CaliforniaNoticesUI:"hide",PURR_DataProcessingConsentUI:"hide",PURR_DataProcessingPreferenceUI:"hide",PURR_AcceptableTrackers_v2:"controllers",PURR_AcceptableTrackers:"controllers",PURR_AdConfiguration_v2:"full",PURR_AdConfiguration:"full",PURR_EmailMarketingOptInUI:"checked",PURR_DeleteIPAddress:"delete",PURR_AdConfiguration_v3:"full"};function e(){return"full"===(e={},n()&&(e=a().PURR_AdConfiguration_v3||a().PURR_AdConfiguration_v2),e);var e}function s(){return!(!!n()&&null!==window.navigator.userAgent.match(/nyt[-_]?(?:ios|android)/i))&&e()}function u(e,n,t){var o=document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0],i=document.createElement("script");n&&(i.onload=n),t&&(i.onerror=t),i.src=e,i.async=!0,o.appendChild(i)}function l(){i().cmd.push(function(){var e="".concat("GeoEdge"," failed to load");i().events.publish({name:h,value:{message:e}})})}function p(){return!window.grumi&&(u("//rumcdn.geoedge.be/b3960cc6-bfd2-4adc-910c-6e917e8a6a0e/grumi-ip.js",null,l),window.grumi={key:"b3960cc6-bfd2-4adc-910c-6e917e8a6a0e",cfg:{advs:v}})}function m(){var e;window.apstag||(e="".concat(b," not loading properly"),console.warn(e))}function f(){i().cmd.push(function(){var e="".concat(b," failed to load");i().events.publish({name:U,value:{type:b,message:e}})})}function w(){window.apstag&&window.apstag.setDisplayBids&&function(){var e=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:window;return e.googletag=e.googletag||{},e.googletag.cmd=e.googletag.cmd||[],e.googletag}().cmd.push(window.apstag.setDisplayBids())}function g(e){return!(!window.apstag||!window.apstag.fetchBids)&&(window.apstag.fetchBids({slots:e},w()),!0)}var v={32074718:!0,4792640386:!0,21966278:!0,4558311760:!0,4552626466:!0,4400775978:!0,39318518:!0,4874174581:!0,33597638:!0,38636678:!0,38637278:!0,33597998:!0,33613118:!0},h="script_loader_error",b="A9",_=[[300,250],[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]],R="large",y="medium",P="small",U="BidderError",A="AdEmpty",k="AdBlockOn",x="AdDefined",I="AdRefreshed";function D(e,n){var t;return(e=[].concat((t=n,[].concat(e).slice().sort(function(e,n){return n[0]-e[0]}).find(function(e){return!Number.isNaN(e[0])&&e[0]<t}))).pop())&&e.length?e:null}function C(i){return function(){var e,n=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:{},t=n.sizes,o=void 0===t?[]:t,t=n.truePosition,n=n.id,o=D(o,window.innerWidth);if(o){o=(e=o,Array.isArray(e)?_.filter(function(n){return e.some(function(e){return e[0]===n[0]&&e[1]===n[1]})}):(console.warn("filterSizes() did not receive an array"),[])),o=[{slotID:t||n,slotName:"".concat(t||n,"_").concat(i,"_web"),sizes:o}];return g(o),!0}return!1}}function O(e,n,t){return n in e?Object.defineProperty(e,n,{value:t,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):e[n]=t,e}function z(t,o){return T.map(function(e){var n=e.id,e=e.sizes;return{slotID:n,slotName:"".concat(n,"_").concat(o,"_web"),sizes:(e=e)[t]||e[P]}})}function S(n,t){i().cmd.push(function(){var e;n&&g(z(740<(e=window.innerWidth)?R:600<e?y:P,t)),i().events.subscribe({name:x,scope:"all",callback:C(t)})})}function M(e,n,t){(function(){var e,t=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:"apstag",o=1<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[1]?arguments[1]:window;return o[t]||(e=function(e,n){return o[t]._Q.push([e,n])},o[t]={_Q:[],init:function(){e("i",arguments)},fetchBids:function(){e("f",arguments)},setDisplayBids:function(){},targetingKeys:function(){return[]}}),o[t]})("apstag",window).init({pubID:"3030",adServer:"googletag",params:{si_section:n}}),S(e,t)}function E(e,n){var t,o={openx:V,rubicon:N,medianet:F}[e];switch(n.includes("mid")?"mid":n){case"top":t=o.top;break;case"mid":t=o.mid;break;case"bottom":t=o.bottom;break;default:t=o.default}return t}function j(e){var n;switch(e){case"livebl":n="hp";break;case"int":n="art";break;case"coll":n="sf";break;default:n=e}return n in B||(n="default"),n}var T=[{id:"dfp-ad-top",sizes:(O(te={},R,[[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]]),O(te,y,[[728,90],[300,250]]),O(te,P,[[300,250],[300,420]]),te)},{id:"top",sizes:(O(ne={},R,[[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]]),O(ne,y,[[728,90],[300,250]]),O(ne,P,[[300,250],[300,420]]),ne)}],B={art:{id:["top","story-ad-1","story-ad-2","story-ad-3","story-ad-4","story-ad-5","story-ad-6","bottom"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2","mid3","mid4","mid5","mid6","bottom"]},hp:{id:["dfp-ad-top","dfp-ad-mid1","dfp-ad-mid2","dfp-ad-mid3","dfp-ad-bottom"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2","mid3","bottom"]},ss:{id:["right-0","right-1","right-2","right-3"],pos:["mid1","mid1","mid1","mid1"],size:{small:[[300,250]],medium:[[300,250]],large:[[300,250]]}},sf:{id:["top","mid1","mid2"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2"]},default:{id:["top","mid1","mid2"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2"],size:{small:[[300,250],[300,420]],medium:[[728,90]],large:[[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]]}}},N={top:2088370,mid:2088372,bottom:2088374,default:2088376},V={top:544112060,mid:544112063,bottom:544112062,default:544112065},F={top:684296214,mid:190706820,bottom:932254072,default:153468583};function q(o,e){var i=j(e);return B[i].pos.reduce(function(e,n,t){t={code:B[i].id[t],mediaTypes:{banner:{sizeConfig:[{minViewPort:[970,0],sizes:(B[i].size?B[i]:B.default).size.large},{minViewPort:[728,0],sizes:(B[i].size?B[i]:B.default).size.medium},{minViewPort:[0,0],sizes:(B[i].size?B[i]:B.default).size.small}]}},bids:(t=n,[{bidder:"appnexus",params:{member:3661,invCode:"nyt_".concat(n=o,"_").concat(t)}},{bidder:"medianet",params:{cid:"8CU4WQK98",crid:E("medianet",t)}},{bidder:"rubicon",params:{accountId:12330,siteId:378266,inventory:{invCode:["nyt_".concat(n,"_").concat(t)]},zoneId:E("rubicon",t)}},{bidder:"openx",params:{unit:E("openx",t),delDomain:"nytimes-d.openx.net",customParams:{invCode:"nyt_".concat(n,"_").concat(t)}}},{bidder:"triplelift",params:{inventoryCode:function(e){e=e.includes("top")||e.includes("bottom")?e:"mid";return"NYTimes_728x90_970_".concat(e="bottom"===e?"bot":e,"_PB")}(t)}}])};return e.push(t),e},[])}function G(t){window.pbjs&&window.pbjs.initAdserverSet||(window.pbjs.initAdserverSet=!0,i().cmd.push(function(){i().events.subscribe({name:"AdDefined",scope:"all",callback:function(n){window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e;(e=j(e=t),B[e].id).includes(n.id)&&window.pbjs.setTargetingForGPTAsync([n.id])})}})}))}function H(t,e,n){function o(e,n){window.pbjs.initAdserverSet=!1,t.requestBids({bidsBackHandler:function(){G(e)},timeout:n})}i().cmd.push(function(){t.que.push(function(){t.addAdUnits(q(e,n)),o(n,1e4),i().events.subscribe({name:I,scope:"all",callback:function(){o(n,800)}})})})}function Y(o,i){return function(){var e,n,t;window.pbjs||console.log("prebid did not load"),e=o,n=i,(t=window.googletag||{}).cmd=t.cmd||[],(t=window.pbjs||{}).que=t.que||[],t.setConfig({priceGranularity:{buckets:[{max:10,increment:.05},{max:20,increment:.1},{max:50,increment:.5},{max:101,increment:1}]}}),H(t,e,n)}}function Q(){i().cmd.push(function(){var e="".concat("PreBid"," failed to load");i().events.publish({name:U,value:{type:"PreBid",message:e}})})}function W(){try{var e=((n=document.createElement("div")).innerHTML=" ",n.className="ad adsbox pub_300x250 pub_300x250m pub_728x90 text-ad textAd text_ad ad-server",n.style="width: 1px !important; height: 1px !important; position: absolute !important; left: -10000px !important; top: -1000px !important;",document.body.prepend(n),document.getElementsByClassName("ad adsbox")[0]),n=!(!(n=e)||0!==n.offsetHeight&&0!==n.clientHeight)||function(e){if(void 0!==window.getComputedStyle){e=window.getComputedStyle(e,null);if(e&&("none"===e.getPropertyValue("display")||"hidden"===e.getPropertyValue("visibility")))return!0}return!1}(e);return e=e,document.body.removeChild(e),n}catch(e){console.error("ad class check failed",e)}var n;return!1}function Z(){return!(window&&window.AdSlot&&window.AdSlot.AdSlotReady)||(!(window&&window.googletag&&window.googletag.apiReady)||W())}function K(){var e=window&&window.nyt_et&&window.nyt_et.get_host&&window.nyt_et.get_host();return e?fetch("".concat(e,"/.status"),{credentials:"include",headers:{accept:"*/*","content-type":"text/plain;charset=UTF-8"},mode:"no-cors"}).then(function(){return{success:!0}}).catch(function(e){return console.error("et track blocked",e),{success:!1}}):Promise.resolve({success:!1})}function L(e,n,t){var o=(i="nyt-a",(document&&document.cookie&&document.cookie.match&&(i=document.cookie.match(new RegExp("".concat(i,"=([^;]+)"))))?i[1]:"")||null),i=!!(window&&window.matchMedia&&window.matchMedia("(max-width: 739px)").matches);return"".concat("https://a-reporting.nytimes.com/report.jpg","?mobile=").concat(i,"&block=").concat(t,"&aid=").concat(o,"&pvid=").concat(e,"&et=").concat(n)}function J(e,n,t){return!!(window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra&&"1_network_detection"===window.NYTD.Abra("DFP_blockDetect_0221"))&&((new Image).src=L(e,n,t),!0)}function X(e,n){n&&i().cmd.push(function(){var e=i();e.events&&e.events.publish({name:A,value:{type:k}})});var t=!1;return K().then(function(){t=(0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:{success:!1}).success}).catch(function(){}).finally(function(){J(e,t,n)})}function $(e){var n;window.addEventListener("load",(n=e,function(){X(n,Z())}))}var ee,ne,te=function(){var e=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:{};if(ee)return!1;var n=e.loadAmazon,t=void 0===n||n,o=e.loadPrebid,i=void 0===o||o,a=e.setFastFetch,r=void 0!==a&&a,d=e.loadGeoEdge,c=void 0===d||d,n=e.section,o=void 0===n?"none":n,a=e.pageViewId,d=void 0===a?"":a,n=e.pageType,a=void 0===n?"":n;return e=document.referrer||"",!(n=/([a-zA-Z0-9_\-.]+)(@|%40)([a-zA-Z0-9_\-.]+).([a-zA-Z]{2,5})/).test(e)&&!n.test(window.location.href)&&(s()&&(a=new RegExp(/art/).test(a)?"art":a,c&&p(),t&&(c=r,t=o,r=a,window.apstag||(u("//c.amazon-adsystem.com/aax2/apstag.js",m,f),M(c,t,r))),i&&(o=o,a=a,window.pbjs||u("https://www.nytimes.com/ads/prebid6.8.0.js",Y(o,a),Q))),$(d),ee=!0)};return(ne=i()).loadScripts=ne.loadScripts||te,window.AdSlot4=ne}();
(function () { var _f=function(e={}){const o=window&&window.AdSlot4;try{const{adToggleMap:i,pageType:t,section:n,isSectionHbEligible:d,setFastFetch:w}=e,a=Object.keys(i).reduce((e,o)=>{const t=i[o]||"";return e[o]=function(e){return!!(window&&window.adClientUtils&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle)&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle(e)}(t),e},{}),{amazon:c,geoedge:s}=a,l=c&&d;"function"==typeof o.loadScripts&&o.loadScripts({loadAmazon:l,loadPrebid:d,setFastFetch:w,section:n,pageType:t,pageViewId:window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.PageViewId&&window.NYTD.PageViewId.current?window.NYTD.PageViewId.current:"",loadGeoEdge:s})}catch(e){console.error(e)}};;_f.apply(null, [{"adToggleMap":{"amazon":"amazon_story_toggle","medianet":"medianet_story_toggle","dfp":"dfp_story_toggle","geoedge":"geoedge_toggle"},"pageType":"artrev","section":"dining","isSectionHbEligible":true,"setFastFetch":true}]); })();
(function () { var _f=function(t={}){window.AdSlot4=window.AdSlot4||{},window.AdSlot4.cmd=window.AdSlot4.cmd||[],window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements={mergeObjects:function(t,...e){return e.reduce(function(t,e){return Object.entries(e).reduce(function(t,[e,n]){return t[e]&&null==n?t:Object.assign({},t,{[e]:n})},t)},t)},isFunction:function(t){return"[object Function]"===Object.prototype.toString.call(t)},getAbraVariant:function(t){if(!(window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra&&window.NYTD.Abra.getAbraSync&&this.isFunction(window.NYTD.Abra.getAbraSync)))return void console.warn("Abra does not exist or is not a function");const e=window.NYTD.Abra.getAbraSync(t);return e&&e.variant},shouldHaltDFP:function(t){return"1_block"===this.getAbraVariant(t)},getSov:function(t={}){return t.sov=t.sov||(Math.floor(4*Math.random())+1).toString(),{sov:t.sov}},getPageViewId:function(t){return{page_view_id:t&&t.current}},getUserData:function(t="{}"){try{const e=JSON.parse(t).data;return e&&e.user}catch(t){console.warn("userinfo data unavailable")}},getEm:function(t){return t&&t.length?{em:t.toString().toLowerCase()}:{}},getWat:function(t){return t?{wat:t.toLowerCase()}:{}},getDemographics:function(t){return this.mergeObjects(this.getEm(t&&t.emailSubscriptions),this.getWat(t&&t.wat))},isValidDfpVariant:function(t){return t.toLowerCase().indexOf("dfp")>-1||t.indexOf("redbird")>-1},joinArgumentsForVariant:function(){if(arguments.length)return[].slice.call(arguments).join("_").toLowerCase()},reduceAbraConfigKeysToDfpVariants:function(t=[],e=""){const n=this.getAbraVariant(e),i=this.joinArgumentsForVariant(e,n);return n&&i?t.concat(i):t},getDFPTestNames:function(t={}){if(!t)return[];const e=this.isValidDfpVariant;return Object.keys(t).filter(function(t){return e(t)})},getAbraDfpVariants:function(t={}){this.isValidDfpVariant;let e="";if(t.config){e=this.getDFPTestNames(t.config).reduce(this.reduceAbraConfigKeysToDfpVariants,[])}return{abra_dfp:e}},isMobile:function(t){const e=t.matchMedia("(max-width: 739px)");return e&&e.matches},isManualRefresh:function(t={}){return!(!t.navigation||1!==t.navigation.type)},getAltLangFromPathname:function(t=""){return 0===t.indexOf("/es/")?"es":""},getAdTargetingProperty:function(t=!1,e=""){let n=t?"m":"";return{prop:(n+=e)+"nyt"}},getAdTargetingPlatform:function(t=!1){return{plat:(t?"m":"")+"web"}},getAdTargetingEdition:function(t=""){return t.length?{edn:t}:{}},getAdTargetingVersion:function(t=!1){return{ver:(t?"m":"")+"vi"}},getAdTargetingHome:function(t,e,n){let i={},o={};return"hp"===t&&(i=e?{topRef:e}:{},o=n?{refresh:"manual"}:{}),this.mergeObjects(i,o)},getAdTargeting:function(t={},e={}){const n=this.isMobile(window),i=this.getAltLangFromPathname(window.location.pathname),o=this.isManualRefresh(performance);return this.mergeObjects(t,this.getDemographics(e),this.getAdTargetingProperty(n,i),this.getAdTargetingPlatform(n),this.getAdTargetingEdition(i),this.getAdTargetingVersion(n),this.getAdTargetingHome(t.typ,document.referrer,o),this.getAbraDfpVariants(window.NYTD.Abra),this.getSov(window),this.getPageViewId(window.NYTD.PageViewId))},init:function(t){window.AdSlot4.init&&this.isFunction(window.AdSlot4.init)?window.AdSlot4.init&&window.AdSlot4.init(t):console.warn("AdSlot4.init does not exist or is not a function")},reportExposure:function(t){window.NYTD.Abra&&this.isFunction(window.NYTD.Abra.reportExposure)?window.NYTD.Abra.reportExposure(t):console.warn("Abra.reportExposure does not exist or is not a function")},generateConfig:function(t={},e={},n={}){const i=n&&n.userInfo&&n.userInfo.demographics;return this.mergeObjects(t,e,{adTargeting:this.getAdTargeting(e.adTargeting,i),haltDFP:this.shouldHaltDFP(e.dfpToggleName||t.dfpToggleName)})}};for(let t in window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements)window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements[t]=window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements[t].bind(window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements);const e={adUnitPath:"/29390238/nyt/homepage",offset:400,hideTopAd:AdSlot4.clientRequirements.isMobile(window),lockdownAds:!1,sizeMapping:{top:[[970,["fluid",[728,90],[970,90],[970,250],[1605,300]]],[728,["fluid",[728,90],[1605,300]]],[0,[]]],fp1:[[0,[[195,250],[215,270]]]],fp2:[[0,[[195,250],[215,270]]]],fp3:[[0,[[195,250],[215,270]]]],feat1:[[0,["fluid"]]],feat2:[[0,["fluid"]]],feat3:[[0,["fluid"]]],feat4:[[0,["fluid"]]],mktg:[[1020,[300,250]],[0,[]]],pencil:[[728,[[336,46]],[0,[]]]],pp_edpick:[[0,["fluid"]]],pp_morein:[[0,["fluid"],[210,218]]],ribbon:[[0,["fluid"]]],sponsor:[[765,[150,50]],[0,[320,25]]],supplemental:[[1020,[[300,250],[300,600]]],[0,[]]],chat:[[0,[[300,250],[300,420]]]],column:[[0,[[300,250],[300,420]]]],default:[[970,["fluid",[728,90],[970,90],[970,250],[1605,300]]],[728,["fluid",[728,90],[300,250],[1605,300]]],[0,["fluid",[300,250],[300,420]]]]},adTargeting:{},haltDFP:!1,dfpToggleName:t.dfpToggleName||"dfp_home_toggle",lazyApi:t.lazyApi||{}};window.AdSlot4.cmd.push(function(){const n=window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements,i=n.getUserData(window&&window.userXhrObject&&window.userXhrObject.responseText),o=n.generateConfig(e,t,i);n.init(o),n.reportExposure("dfp_adslot4v2")})};;_f.apply(null, [{"adTargeting":{"edn":"us","test":"projectvi","ver":"vi","template":"article","hasVideo":"false","vp":"small","als_test":"1648344072343","prop":"mnyt","plat":"mweb","brandsensitive":"false","per":"hanmihyun,kimkey","org":"hwabanmanhattannyrestaurant","geo":"chelseamanhattanny","des":"restaurants,koreanfoodcuisine","auth":"petewells","col":"restaurantreview","coll":"restaurantreview,food,newyork,multimedia,food","artlen":"medium","ledemedsz":"none","typ":"artrev","section":"dining","si_section":"dining","id":"100000006281515","pt":"nt11,nt13,nt17,nt3,nt4,nt5,nt7,pt1,pt10,pt6","gscat":"gs_food,neg_mastercard,gs_food_misc,gs_food_estab,gs_fashion,gs_tech,gs_tech_computing,gv_safe,gs_t"},"adUnitPath":"/29390238/nyt/dining","dfpToggleName":"dfp_story_toggle"}]); })();
})();
</script>
</head>
<body>
<div id="app">
<div>
<div class="">
<div>
<div class="NYTAppHideMasthead css-1q2w90k e1m0pzr40">
<header class="css-1bymuyk e1m0pzr41">
<section class="css-ui9rw0 e1m0pzr42">
<div class="css-1f7ibof ea180rp0">
<div class="css-6n7j50">
<button aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="Sections Navigation & Search" class="ea180rp1 css-fzvsed" data-testid="nav-button" type="button">
<svg class="css-1fe7a5q" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="3">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="7">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="11">
</rect>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
<button aria-label="Sections Navigation" class="css-123u7tk ea180rp2" data-testid="desktop-section-button" id="desktop-sections-button">
<span class="css-1dv1kvn">
Sections
</span>
<svg class="css-1fe7a5q" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="3">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="7">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="11">
</rect>
</svg>
</button>
<div class="css-10488qs">
<button class="css-tkwi90 e1iflr850" data-test-id="search-button">
<span class="css-1dv1kvn">
SEARCH
</span>
<svg class="css-1fe7a5q" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<path d="M11.3,9.2C11.7,8.4,12,7.5,12,6.5C12,3.5,9.5,1,6.5,1S1,3.5,1,6.5S3.5,12,6.5,12c1,0,1.9-0.3,2.7-0.7l3.3,3.3c0.3,0.3,0.7,0.4,1.1,0.4s0.8-0.1,1.1-0.4c0.6-0.6,0.6-1.5,0-2.1L11.3,9.2zM6.5,10.3c-2.1,0-3.8-1.7-3.8-3.8c0-2.1,1.7-3.8,3.8-3.8c2.1,0,3.8,1.7,3.8,3.8C10.3,8.6,8.6,10.3,6.5,10.3z" fill="#333">
</path>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
<a class="css-1f8er69" href="#site-content">
Skip to content
</a>
<a class="css-1f8er69" href="#site-index">
Skip to site index
</a>
</div>
<div class="css-1wr3we4 ek6sfxi0" id="masthead-section-label">
<a class="css-nuvmzp" href="https://www.nytimes.com/section/food">
Food
</a>
</div>
<div class="css-10698na ell52qj0">
<a aria-label="New York Times Logo. Click to visit the homepage" class="css-nhjhh0 ell52qj1" data-testid="masthead-mobile-logo" href="/">
<svg fill="#000" viewbox="0 0 184 25">
<path d="M13.8 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8C6.2 1.4 5 1 4 1 2 1 .6 2.5.6 4.2c0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.5-.4-.5-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8v3.1L9 10.2v.1l1.5 1.3v4.3c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2C3.6 6.9 4.7 6 5.8 5.4l-.1-.3c-3 .8-5.7 3.6-5.7 7 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1l-1.6-1.3V5.8c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7 0-1.5.2-2.1l2.1-.9v6.2zm10.6 2.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.2-.8.5-1-1V9.4l.8-.6 1.7 1.4v6.1c0 3.8-.8 4.4-2.5 5v.3c2.8.1 5.4-.8 5.4-5.7V9.3l.9-.7-.2-.2-.8.6-2.5-2.1L18.5 9V.8h-.2l-3.5 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .4 1 1.5l-.1 11.3zM34 15.1L31.5 17 29 15v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM53.1 2c0-.3-.1-.6-.2-.9h-.2c-.3.8-.7 1.2-1.7 1.2-.9 0-1.5-.5-1.9-.9l-2.9 3.3.2.2 1-.9c.6.5 1.1.9 2.5 1v8.3L44 3.2c-.5-.8-1.2-1.9-2.6-1.9-1.6 0-3 1.4-2.8 3.6h.3c.1-.6.4-1.3 1.1-1.3.5 0 1 .5 1.3 1v3.3c-1.8 0-3 .8-3 2.3 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2.3v-.2c-.2-.2-.3-.4-.3-.7 0-.5.4-.9 1.1-.9h.5v4.2c-2.1 0-3.8 1.2-3.8 3.2 0 1.9 1.6 2.8 3.4 2.7v-.2c-1.1-.1-1.6-.6-1.6-1.3 0-.9.6-1.3 1.4-1.3.8 0 1.5.5 2 1.1l2.9-3.2-.2-.2-.7.8c-1.1-1-1.7-1.3-3-1.5V5l8 14h.6V5c1.5-.1 2.9-1.3 2.9-3zm7.3 13.1L57.9 17l-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM76.7 8l-.7.5-1.9-1.6-2.2 2 .9.9v7.5l-2.4-1.5V9.6l.8-.5-2.3-2.2-2.2 2 .9.9V17l-.3.2-2.1-1.5v-6c0-1.4-.7-1.8-1.5-2.3-.7-.5-1.1-.8-1.1-1.5 0-.6.6-.9.9-1.1v-.2c-.8 0-2.9.8-2.9 2.7 0 1 .5 1.4 1 1.9s1 .9 1 1.8v5.8l-1.1.8.2.2 1-.8 2.3 2 2.5-1.7 2.8 1.7 5.3-3.1V9.2l1.3-1-.2-.2zm18.6-5.5l-1 .9-2.2-2-3.3 2.4V1.6h-.3l.1 16.2c-.3 0-1.2-.2-1.9-.4l-.2-13.5c0-1-.7-2.4-2.5-2.4s-3 1.4-3 2.8h.3c.1-.6.4-1.1 1-1.1s1.1.4 1.1 1.7v3.9c-1.8.1-2.9 1.1-2.9 2.4 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2V13c-.4-.2-.5-.5-.5-.7 0-.6.5-.8 1.3-.8h.4v6.2c-1.5.5-2.1 1.6-2.1 2.8 0 1.7 1.3 2.9 3.3 2.9 1.4 0 2.6-.2 3.8-.5 1-.2 2.3-.5 2.9-.5.8 0 1.1.4 1.1.9 0 .7-.3 1-.7 1.1v.2c1.6-.3 2.6-1.3 2.6-2.8s-1.5-2.4-3.1-2.4c-.8 0-2.5.3-3.7.5-1.4.3-2.8.5-3.2.5-.7 0-1.5-.3-1.5-1.3 0-.8.7-1.5 2.4-1.5.9 0 2 .1 3.1.4 1.2.3 2.3.6 3.3.6 1.5 0 2.8-.5 2.8-2.6V3.7l1.2-1-.2-.2zm-4.1 6.1c-.3.3-.7.6-1.2.6s-1-.3-1.2-.6V4.2l1-.7 1.4 1.3v3.8zm0 3c-.2-.2-.7-.5-1.2-.5s-1 .3-1.2.5V9c.2.2.7.5 1.2.5s1-.3 1.2-.5v2.6zm0 4.7c0 .8-.5 1.6-1.6 1.6h-.8V12c.2-.2.7-.5 1.2-.5s.9.3 1.2.5v4.3zm13.7-7.1l-3.2-2.3-4.9 2.8v6.5l-1 .8.1.2.8-.6 3.2 2.4 5-3V9.2zm-5.4 6.3V8.3l2.5 1.8v7.1l-2.5-1.7zm14.9-8.4h-.2c-.3.2-.6.4-.9.4-.4 0-.9-.2-1.1-.5h-.2l-1.7 1.9-1.7-1.9-3 2 .1.2.8-.5 1 1.1v6.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.4 2 3.1-2.1-.1-.2-.9.5-1.2-1V9c.5.5 1.1 1 1.8 1 1.4.1 2.2-1.3 2.3-2.9zm12 9.6L123 19l-4.6-7 3.3-5.1h.2c.4.4 1 .8 1.7.8s1.2-.4 1.5-.8h.2c-.1 2-1.5 3.2-2.5 3.2s-1.5-.5-2.1-.8l-.3.5 5 7.4 1-.6v.1zm-11-.5l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.2-.2-.8.5-1-1V.8h-.1l-3.6 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .3 1 1.5v11.3zM143 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8-1.3-.4-2.5-.8-3.5-.8-2 0-3.4 1.5-3.4 3.2 0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.3-.2-.6-.4-.6-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8V9l-1.5 1.3v.1l1.5 1.3V16c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2c.5-1.3 1.6-2.2 2.6-2.9l-.1-.2c-3 .8-5.7 3.5-5.7 6.9 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1L140 8.8v-3c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7.1-1.5.3-2.1l2.1-.9-.1 6.2zm12.2-12h-.1l-2 1.7v.1l1.7 1.9h.2l2-1.7v-.1l-1.8-1.9zm3 14.8l-.8.5-1-1V9.3l1-.7-.2-.2-.7.6-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .2.3.7-.5.9 1.1v6.5l-1.3 1 .1.2.7-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.3zm16.7-.1l-.7.5-1.1-1V9.3l1-.8-.2-.2-.8.7-2.3-2.1-3 2.1-2.3-2.1L154 9l-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .1.3.7-.5 1 1.1v6.5l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.9-.6 1.5 1.4v6l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.8-.5 1.6 1.4v6l-.7.7 2.3 2.1 3.1-2.1v-.3zm8.7-1.5l-2.5 1.9-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.8l3.5 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.3zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zm14.1-.9l-1.9-1.5c1.3-1.1 1.8-2.6 1.8-3.6v-.6h-.2c-.2.5-.6 1-1.4 1-.8 0-1.3-.4-1.8-1L176 9.3v3.6l1.7 1.3c-1.7 1.5-2 2.5-2 3.3 0 1 .5 1.7 1.3 2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.4-.8 0-.3.4-.8 1.2-.8 1 0 1.6.7 1.9 1l4.3-2.6v-3.6h-.1zm-1.1-3c-.7 1.2-2.2 2.4-3.1 3l-1.1-.9V8.1c.4 1 1.5 1.8 2.6 1.8.7 0 1.1-.1 1.6-.4zm-1.7 8c-.5-1.1-1.7-1.9-2.9-1.9-.3 0-1.1 0-1.9.5.5-.8 1.8-2.2 3.5-3.2l1.2 1 .1 3.6z">
</path>
</svg>
</a>
</div>
<div class="css-y3sf94 e1j3jvdr1">
<a class="css-1kj7lfb" href="https://myaccount.nytimes.com/auth/login?response_type=cookie&client_id=vi&redirect_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nytimes.com%2Fsubscription%2Fmultiproduct%2Flp8KQUS.html%3FcampaignId%3D7JFJX&asset=masthead">
<span class="css-htw48t e1j3jvdr0">
Log in
</span>
</a>
<div class="css-6n7j50">
<button aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="Account" class="e1j3jvdr4 css-fozwf3" data-testid="user-settings-button" type="button">
<svg class="css-10m9xeu" fill="#333" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<path d="M8,10c-2.5,0-7,1.1-7,3.5V16h14v-2.5C15,11.1,10.5,10,8,10z">
</path>
<circle cx="8" cy="4" r="4">
</circle>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</section>
<section class="hasLinks css-1r0gz1j e1pjtsj63" id="masthead-bar-one">
<div>
<div class="css-1o0kkht e1pjtsj60">
</div>
<div class="css-1bvtpon e1pjtsj62">
<a class="css-hnzl8o" href="https://www.nytimes.com/section/todayspaper">
Today’s Paper
</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-9e9ivx">
<a class="css-1k0lris" data-testid="login-link" href="https://myaccount.nytimes.com/auth/login?response_type=cookie&client_id=vi&redirect_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nytimes.com%2Fsubscription%2Fmultiproduct%2Flp8KQUS.html%3FcampaignId%3D7JFJX&asset=masthead">
</a>
</div>
</section>
</header>
</div>
</div>
<div aria-hidden="false">
<main id="site-content">
<div>
<div class="css-1aor85t" id="in-story-masthead" style="opacity:0.000000001;z-index:-1;visibility:hidden">
<div class="css-1hqnpie">
<div class="css-epjblv">
<span class="css-17xtcya">
<a href="/section/food">
Food
</a>
</span>
<span class="css-x15j1o">
|
</span>
<span class="css-fwqvlz">
Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother
</span>
</div>
<div class="css-k008qs">
<div class="css-1iwv8en">
<a href="/">
<svg class="css-1tel06d" viewbox="0 0 16 22">
<path d="M15.863 13.08c-.687 1.818-1.923 3.147-3.64 3.916v-3.917l2.129-1.958-2.129-1.889V6.505c1.923-.14 3.228-1.609 3.228-3.358C15.45.84 13.32 0 12.086 0c-.275 0-.55 0-.962.14v.14h.481c.824 0 1.51.42 1.51 1.189 0 .63-.48 1.189-1.304 1.189-2.129 0-4.6-1.749-7.279-1.749C2.13.91.481 2.728.481 4.546c0 1.819 1.03 2.448 2.128 2.798v-.14c-.343-.21-.618-.63-.618-1.189 0-.84.756-1.469 1.648-1.469 2.267 0 5.906 1.959 8.172 1.959h.206v2.727l-2.129 1.889 2.13 1.958v3.987c-.894.35-1.786.49-2.748.49-3.502 0-5.768-2.169-5.768-5.806 0-.839.137-1.678.344-2.518l1.785-.769v7.973l3.57-1.608V6.575L3.984 8.953c.55-1.61 1.648-2.728 2.953-3.358v-.07C3.433 6.295 0 9.023 0 13.08c0 4.686 3.914 7.974 8.446 7.974 4.807 0 7.485-3.288 7.554-7.974h-.137z" fill="#000">
</path>
</svg>
</a>
<span class="css-18z7m18">
<a aria-label="New York Times Logo. Click to visit the homepage" data-testid="masthead-logo" href="/">
<svg class="css-12fr9lp" fill="#000" viewbox="0 0 184 25">
<path d="M13.8 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8C6.2 1.4 5 1 4 1 2 1 .6 2.5.6 4.2c0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.5-.4-.5-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8v3.1L9 10.2v.1l1.5 1.3v4.3c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2C3.6 6.9 4.7 6 5.8 5.4l-.1-.3c-3 .8-5.7 3.6-5.7 7 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1l-1.6-1.3V5.8c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7 0-1.5.2-2.1l2.1-.9v6.2zm10.6 2.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.2-.8.5-1-1V9.4l.8-.6 1.7 1.4v6.1c0 3.8-.8 4.4-2.5 5v.3c2.8.1 5.4-.8 5.4-5.7V9.3l.9-.7-.2-.2-.8.6-2.5-2.1L18.5 9V.8h-.2l-3.5 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .4 1 1.5l-.1 11.3zM34 15.1L31.5 17 29 15v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM53.1 2c0-.3-.1-.6-.2-.9h-.2c-.3.8-.7 1.2-1.7 1.2-.9 0-1.5-.5-1.9-.9l-2.9 3.3.2.2 1-.9c.6.5 1.1.9 2.5 1v8.3L44 3.2c-.5-.8-1.2-1.9-2.6-1.9-1.6 0-3 1.4-2.8 3.6h.3c.1-.6.4-1.3 1.1-1.3.5 0 1 .5 1.3 1v3.3c-1.8 0-3 .8-3 2.3 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2.3v-.2c-.2-.2-.3-.4-.3-.7 0-.5.4-.9 1.1-.9h.5v4.2c-2.1 0-3.8 1.2-3.8 3.2 0 1.9 1.6 2.8 3.4 2.7v-.2c-1.1-.1-1.6-.6-1.6-1.3 0-.9.6-1.3 1.4-1.3.8 0 1.5.5 2 1.1l2.9-3.2-.2-.2-.7.8c-1.1-1-1.7-1.3-3-1.5V5l8 14h.6V5c1.5-.1 2.9-1.3 2.9-3zm7.3 13.1L57.9 17l-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM76.7 8l-.7.5-1.9-1.6-2.2 2 .9.9v7.5l-2.4-1.5V9.6l.8-.5-2.3-2.2-2.2 2 .9.9V17l-.3.2-2.1-1.5v-6c0-1.4-.7-1.8-1.5-2.3-.7-.5-1.1-.8-1.1-1.5 0-.6.6-.9.9-1.1v-.2c-.8 0-2.9.8-2.9 2.7 0 1 .5 1.4 1 1.9s1 .9 1 1.8v5.8l-1.1.8.2.2 1-.8 2.3 2 2.5-1.7 2.8 1.7 5.3-3.1V9.2l1.3-1-.2-.2zm18.6-5.5l-1 .9-2.2-2-3.3 2.4V1.6h-.3l.1 16.2c-.3 0-1.2-.2-1.9-.4l-.2-13.5c0-1-.7-2.4-2.5-2.4s-3 1.4-3 2.8h.3c.1-.6.4-1.1 1-1.1s1.1.4 1.1 1.7v3.9c-1.8.1-2.9 1.1-2.9 2.4 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2V13c-.4-.2-.5-.5-.5-.7 0-.6.5-.8 1.3-.8h.4v6.2c-1.5.5-2.1 1.6-2.1 2.8 0 1.7 1.3 2.9 3.3 2.9 1.4 0 2.6-.2 3.8-.5 1-.2 2.3-.5 2.9-.5.8 0 1.1.4 1.1.9 0 .7-.3 1-.7 1.1v.2c1.6-.3 2.6-1.3 2.6-2.8s-1.5-2.4-3.1-2.4c-.8 0-2.5.3-3.7.5-1.4.3-2.8.5-3.2.5-.7 0-1.5-.3-1.5-1.3 0-.8.7-1.5 2.4-1.5.9 0 2 .1 3.1.4 1.2.3 2.3.6 3.3.6 1.5 0 2.8-.5 2.8-2.6V3.7l1.2-1-.2-.2zm-4.1 6.1c-.3.3-.7.6-1.2.6s-1-.3-1.2-.6V4.2l1-.7 1.4 1.3v3.8zm0 3c-.2-.2-.7-.5-1.2-.5s-1 .3-1.2.5V9c.2.2.7.5 1.2.5s1-.3 1.2-.5v2.6zm0 4.7c0 .8-.5 1.6-1.6 1.6h-.8V12c.2-.2.7-.5 1.2-.5s.9.3 1.2.5v4.3zm13.7-7.1l-3.2-2.3-4.9 2.8v6.5l-1 .8.1.2.8-.6 3.2 2.4 5-3V9.2zm-5.4 6.3V8.3l2.5 1.8v7.1l-2.5-1.7zm14.9-8.4h-.2c-.3.2-.6.4-.9.4-.4 0-.9-.2-1.1-.5h-.2l-1.7 1.9-1.7-1.9-3 2 .1.2.8-.5 1 1.1v6.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.4 2 3.1-2.1-.1-.2-.9.5-1.2-1V9c.5.5 1.1 1 1.8 1 1.4.1 2.2-1.3 2.3-2.9zm12 9.6L123 19l-4.6-7 3.3-5.1h.2c.4.4 1 .8 1.7.8s1.2-.4 1.5-.8h.2c-.1 2-1.5 3.2-2.5 3.2s-1.5-.5-2.1-.8l-.3.5 5 7.4 1-.6v.1zm-11-.5l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.2-.2-.8.5-1-1V.8h-.1l-3.6 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .3 1 1.5v11.3zM143 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8-1.3-.4-2.5-.8-3.5-.8-2 0-3.4 1.5-3.4 3.2 0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.3-.2-.6-.4-.6-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8V9l-1.5 1.3v.1l1.5 1.3V16c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2c.5-1.3 1.6-2.2 2.6-2.9l-.1-.2c-3 .8-5.7 3.5-5.7 6.9 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1L140 8.8v-3c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7.1-1.5.3-2.1l2.1-.9-.1 6.2zm12.2-12h-.1l-2 1.7v.1l1.7 1.9h.2l2-1.7v-.1l-1.8-1.9zm3 14.8l-.8.5-1-1V9.3l1-.7-.2-.2-.7.6-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .2.3.7-.5.9 1.1v6.5l-1.3 1 .1.2.7-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.3zm16.7-.1l-.7.5-1.1-1V9.3l1-.8-.2-.2-.8.7-2.3-2.1-3 2.1-2.3-2.1L154 9l-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .1.3.7-.5 1 1.1v6.5l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.9-.6 1.5 1.4v6l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.8-.5 1.6 1.4v6l-.7.7 2.3 2.1 3.1-2.1v-.3zm8.7-1.5l-2.5 1.9-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.8l3.5 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.3zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zm14.1-.9l-1.9-1.5c1.3-1.1 1.8-2.6 1.8-3.6v-.6h-.2c-.2.5-.6 1-1.4 1-.8 0-1.3-.4-1.8-1L176 9.3v3.6l1.7 1.3c-1.7 1.5-2 2.5-2 3.3 0 1 .5 1.7 1.3 2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.4-.8 0-.3.4-.8 1.2-.8 1 0 1.6.7 1.9 1l4.3-2.6v-3.6h-.1zm-1.1-3c-.7 1.2-2.2 2.4-3.1 3l-1.1-.9V8.1c.4 1 1.5 1.8 2.6 1.8.7 0 1.1-.1 1.6-.4zm-1.7 8c-.5-1.1-1.7-1.9-2.9-1.9-.3 0-1.1 0-1.9.5.5-.8 1.8-2.2 3.5-3.2l1.2 1 .1 3.6z">
</path>
</svg>
</a>
</span>
</div>
<span class="css-1n6z4y">
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html
</span>
<div class="css-tvohiw">
<div aria-label="Social Media Share buttons, Save button, and Comments Panel with current comment count" data-testid="share-tools" role="toolbar">
<div class="css-4skfbu">
<ul class="css-1sirvy4">
<li class="css-9eyi4s">
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="unlockShareTooltip" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="" class="css-q1aqo6" type="button">
<span class="gift-article-button css-1dtsvfy">
<svg height="19" viewbox="0 0 19 19" width="19">
<path d="M18.04 5.293h-2.725c.286-.34.493-.74.606-1.17a2.875 2.875 0 0 0-.333-2.322A2.906 2.906 0 0 0 13.64.48a3.31 3.31 0 0 0-2.372.464 3.775 3.775 0 0 0-1.534 2.483l-.141.797-.142-.847A3.745 3.745 0 0 0 7.927.923 3.31 3.31 0 0 0 5.555.459 2.907 2.907 0 0 0 3.607 1.78a2.877 2.877 0 0 0-.333 2.321c.117.429.324.828.606 1.171H1.155a.767.767 0 0 0-.757.757v3.674a.767.767 0 0 0 .757.757h.424v7.53A1.01 1.01 0 0 0 2.588 19h14.13a1.01 1.01 0 0 0 1.01-.959v-7.56h.424a.758.758 0 0 0 .757-.757V6.05a.759.759 0 0 0-.868-.757Zm-7.196-1.625a2.665 2.665 0 0 1 1.01-1.736 2.24 2.24 0 0 1 1.574-.313 1.817 1.817 0 0 1 1.211.818 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202 1.453 2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838 1.191h-3.431l.272-1.413ZM4.576 2.386a1.837 1.837 0 0 1 1.221-.817 2.23 2.23 0 0 1 1.565.313 2.624 2.624 0 0 1 1.01 1.736l.242 1.453H5.182a2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838-1.19 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202-1.495h.03ZM1.548 6.424h7.54V9.39h-7.58l.04-2.967Zm1.181 4.128h6.359v7.287H2.729v-7.287Zm13.777 7.287h-6.348v-7.307h6.348v7.307Zm1.181-8.468h-7.53V6.404h7.53V9.37Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
Give this article
</span>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v">
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="More sharing options ..." class="css-1uhsiac" type="button">
<svg class="css-4wep0k" height="18" viewbox="0 0 23 18" width="23">
<path d="M1.357 17.192a.663.663 0 0 1-.642-.81c1.82-7.955 6.197-12.068 12.331-11.68V1.127a.779.779 0 0 1 .42-.653.726.726 0 0 1 .78.106l8.195 6.986a.81.81 0 0 1 .253.557.82.82 0 0 1-.263.547l-8.196 6.955a.83.83 0 0 1-.779.105.747.747 0 0 1-.42-.663V11.29c-8.418-.905-10.974 5.177-11.08 5.45a.662.662 0 0 1-.6.453Zm10.048-7.26a16.37 16.37 0 0 1 2.314.158.81.81 0 0 1 .642.726v3.02l6.702-5.682-6.702-5.692v2.883a.767.767 0 0 1-.242.536.747.747 0 0 1-.547.18c-4.808-.537-8.364 1.85-10.448 6.922a11.679 11.679 0 0 1 8.28-3.093v.042Z" fill="#000" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v save-button">
<button aria-checked="false" aria-label="Save article for reading later..." class="css-18um6j6" disabled="" role="switch" type="button">
<svg class="css-swbuts" height="18" viewbox="0 0 12 18" width="12">
<g fill="none" fill-rule="nonzero" stroke="#666">
<path d="M1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268z" fill="none">
</path>
<path d="m12 18-5.9-4.756L0 17.98V1.014C0 .745.095.487.265.297.435.107.664 0 .904 0h10.192c.24 0 .47.107.64.297.169.19.264.448.264.717V18ZM1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268H1.158Z" fill="#121212">
</path>
</g>
</svg>
</button>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v commentAdjustClass">
<span class="">
<div class="css-jyqt2x">
<svg class="css-2urdiw" height="18" viewbox="0 0 21 18" width="21">
<path d="m14.52 17.831-5.715-4.545H2.4a1.468 1.468 0 0 1-1.468-1.469V1.894A1.471 1.471 0 0 1 2.4.405h16.583a1.469 1.469 0 0 1 1.469 1.469v9.923a1.469 1.469 0 0 1-1.47 1.47H14.58l-.06 4.564ZM2.4 1.645a.228.228 0 0 0-.228.229v9.923a.228.228 0 0 0 .228.229h6.811l4.06 3.235v-3.235h5.652a.228.228 0 0 0 .229-.229V1.874a.228.228 0 0 0-.229-.229H2.4Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
<span class="css-1dtr3u3">
<a href="/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html">
25
</a>
</span>
</div>
</span>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<article class="css-1vxca1d e1lmdhsb0" id="story">
<div class="css-13pd83m">
</div>
<div class="css-z1t82k" id="top-wrapper">
<div class="css-l9onyx" id="top-slug">
<p>
Advertisement
</p>
</div>
<a class="css-1ly73wi" href="#after-top">
Continue reading the main story
</a>
<div class="ad top-wrapper css-rfqw0c">
<div class="place-ad" data-position="top" data-size-key="top" id="top">
</div>
</div>
<div id="after-top">
</div>
</div>
<header class="css-ky4dag e12qa4dv0">
<div class="css-1hyfx7x" id="sponsor-wrapper">
<div class="css-19vbshk" id="sponsor-slug">
<p>
Supported by
</p>
</div>
<a class="css-1ly73wi" href="#after-sponsor">
Continue reading the main story
</a>
<div class="ad sponsor-wrapper css-rfqw0c" id="sponsor">
</div>
<div id="after-sponsor">
</div>
</div>
<p class="css-c2jxua e6idgb70">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="/column/restaurant-review" title="Restaurant Review">
Restaurant Review
</a>
</p>
<div class="css-1vkm6nb ehdk2mb0">
<h1 class="css-139djpt e1h9rw200" data-testid="headline" id="link-695a0d39">
Hwaban Is the Modern Korean Restaurant Where You’d Take Your Mother
</h1>
</div>
<div aria-label="Social Media Share buttons, Save button, and Comments Panel with current comment count" data-testid="share-tools" role="toolbar">
<div class="css-1wa6gzb">
<ul class="css-1sirvy4">
<li class="css-9eyi4s">
<div aria-hidden="true" aria-labelledby="dialogMessage" class="css-1k1icib" id="unlockShareTooltip" role="tooltip" tabindex="0">
<div class="css-n3eewq">
<p class="css-1gxs0ky">
<strong>
Send any friend a story
</strong>
</p>
<p class="css-1wo2tr0" id="dialogMessage">
As a subscriber, you have
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
10 gift articles
</strong>
to give each month. Anyone can read what you share.
</p>
</div>
<button aria-label="close sharing tooltip" type="button">
<svg class="" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-width="1.5" style="opacity:0.95" viewbox="0 0 12 12">
<line x1="11" x2="1" y1="1" y2="11">
</line>
<line x1="1" x2="11" y1="1" y2="11">
</line>
</svg>
</button>
<div class="css-1w38vn7">
<div class="css-1n60tr3">
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="unlockShareTooltip" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="" class="css-q1aqo6" type="button">
<span class="gift-article-button css-1dtsvfy">
<svg height="19" viewbox="0 0 19 19" width="19">
<path d="M18.04 5.293h-2.725c.286-.34.493-.74.606-1.17a2.875 2.875 0 0 0-.333-2.322A2.906 2.906 0 0 0 13.64.48a3.31 3.31 0 0 0-2.372.464 3.775 3.775 0 0 0-1.534 2.483l-.141.797-.142-.847A3.745 3.745 0 0 0 7.927.923 3.31 3.31 0 0 0 5.555.459 2.907 2.907 0 0 0 3.607 1.78a2.877 2.877 0 0 0-.333 2.321c.117.429.324.828.606 1.171H1.155a.767.767 0 0 0-.757.757v3.674a.767.767 0 0 0 .757.757h.424v7.53A1.01 1.01 0 0 0 2.588 19h14.13a1.01 1.01 0 0 0 1.01-.959v-7.56h.424a.758.758 0 0 0 .757-.757V6.05a.759.759 0 0 0-.868-.757Zm-7.196-1.625a2.665 2.665 0 0 1 1.01-1.736 2.24 2.24 0 0 1 1.574-.313 1.817 1.817 0 0 1 1.211.818 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202 1.453 2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838 1.191h-3.431l.272-1.413ZM4.576 2.386a1.837 1.837 0 0 1 1.221-.817 2.23 2.23 0 0 1 1.565.313 2.624 2.624 0 0 1 1.01 1.736l.242 1.453H5.182a2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838-1.19 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202-1.495h.03ZM1.548 6.424h7.54V9.39h-7.58l.04-2.967Zm1.181 4.128h6.359v7.287H2.729v-7.287Zm13.777 7.287h-6.348v-7.307h6.348v7.307Zm1.181-8.468h-7.53V6.404h7.53V9.37Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
Give this article
</span>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v">
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="More sharing options ..." class="css-1uhsiac" type="button">
<svg class="css-4wep0k" height="18" viewbox="0 0 23 18" width="23">
<path d="M1.357 17.192a.663.663 0 0 1-.642-.81c1.82-7.955 6.197-12.068 12.331-11.68V1.127a.779.779 0 0 1 .42-.653.726.726 0 0 1 .78.106l8.195 6.986a.81.81 0 0 1 .253.557.82.82 0 0 1-.263.547l-8.196 6.955a.83.83 0 0 1-.779.105.747.747 0 0 1-.42-.663V11.29c-8.418-.905-10.974 5.177-11.08 5.45a.662.662 0 0 1-.6.453Zm10.048-7.26a16.37 16.37 0 0 1 2.314.158.81.81 0 0 1 .642.726v3.02l6.702-5.682-6.702-5.692v2.883a.767.767 0 0 1-.242.536.747.747 0 0 1-.547.18c-4.808-.537-8.364 1.85-10.448 6.922a11.679 11.679 0 0 1 8.28-3.093v.042Z" fill="#000" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v save-button">
<button aria-checked="false" aria-label="Save article for reading later..." class="css-18um6j6" disabled="" role="switch" type="button">
<svg class="css-swbuts" height="18" viewbox="0 0 12 18" width="12">
<g fill="none" fill-rule="nonzero" stroke="#666">
<path d="M1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268z" fill="none">
</path>
<path d="m12 18-5.9-4.756L0 17.98V1.014C0 .745.095.487.265.297.435.107.664 0 .904 0h10.192c.24 0 .47.107.64.297.169.19.264.448.264.717V18ZM1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268H1.158Z" fill="#121212">
</path>
</g>
</svg>
</button>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v commentAdjustClass">
<span class="">
<div class="css-jyqt2x">
<svg class="css-2urdiw" height="18" viewbox="0 0 21 18" width="21">
<path d="m14.52 17.831-5.715-4.545H2.4a1.468 1.468 0 0 1-1.468-1.469V1.894A1.471 1.471 0 0 1 2.4.405h16.583a1.469 1.469 0 0 1 1.469 1.469v9.923a1.469 1.469 0 0 1-1.47 1.47H14.58l-.06 4.564ZM2.4 1.645a.228.228 0 0 0-.228.229v9.923a.228.228 0 0 0 .228.229h6.811l4.06 3.235v-3.235h5.652a.228.228 0 0 0 .229-.229V1.874a.228.228 0 0 0-.229-.229H2.4Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
<span class="css-1dtr3u3">
<a href="/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html">
25
</a>
</span>
</div>
</span>
</li>
<li class="css-fb7l6r">
<button class="css-11jlzyd" data-testid="getstarted-magic-link" type="button">
Read in app
</button>
<form action="https://nytimes.app.goo.gl/?link=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html&apn=com.nytimes.android&amv=9837&ibi=com.nytimes.NYTimes&isi=284862083" data-testid="MagicLinkForm" method="post" style="visibility:hidden">
<input name="client_id" type="hidden" value="web.fwk.vi"/>
<input name="redirect_uri" type="hidden" value="https://nytimes.app.goo.gl/?link=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-restaurant-review.html&apn=com.nytimes.android&amv=9837&ibi=com.nytimes.NYTimes&isi=284862083"/>
<input name="response_type" type="hidden" value="code"/>
<input name="state" type="hidden" value="no-state"/>
<input name="scope" type="hidden" value="default"/>
</form>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<div class="sizeMedium layoutHorizontal css-ref0xf ewenx681">
<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2018/12/31/dining/hwaban-korean-nyc.html">
<div class="css-5nx6oe">
<h2 class="css-9kcu5u">
In Chelsea, a Refined Approach to Korean Dining
</h2>
<div class="css-1xhl2m">
<p class="css-1e85yo">
</p>
<p class="css-1e85yo">
10 Photos
</p>
<p class="css-1e85yo">
View Slide Show
<span class="css-t4350i">
›
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-79elbk">
<div class="css-hyytny">
</div>
<figure aria-label="media" class="sizeMedium layoutHorizontal ewenx680 css-1pv2nfg" role="group">
<div class="css-bsn42l">
<img alt="" class="css-rq4mmj" decoding="async" height="400" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02REST-slide-MSLR/02REST-slide-MSLR-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 2048w" width="600"/>
</div>
<figcaption class="css-13o4bnb e1maroi60">
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</a>
<div class="css-13o4bnb efyb8hk0">
<span class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Evan Sung for The New York Times
</span>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-170u9t6">
<div class="css-1c4e8vg" data-testid="restaurant-review-header">
<div class="css-83hgbf">
<dl>
<dt>
Hwaban
</dt>
<dd class="css-up6b8e">
<i>
</i>
<span>
NYT Critic's Pick
</span>
</dd>
<dd>
<span class="css-z4hz5">
★★
</span>
</dd>
<dd class="isClosed">
Closed
</dd>
</dl>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-xt80pu eakwutd0" data-testid="byline-timestamp">
<div class="css-sklrp3">
<div class="css-1e2jphy epjyd6m1">
<div class="css-233int epjyd6m0">
<p class="css-aknsld e1jsehar1">
<span class="byline-prefix">
By
</span>
<span class="css-1baulvz last-byline" itemprop="name">
<a class="css-mrorfa e1jsehar0" href="https://www.nytimes.com/by/pete-wells">
Pete Wells
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<ul class="css-1u1psjv epjyd6m3">
<li class="css-ccw2r3 epjyd6m2">
<time class="css-129k401 e16638kd0" datetime="2018-12-31T13:34:57-05:00">
Dec. 31, 2018
</time>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</header>
<section class="meteredContent css-1r7ky0e" name="articleBody">
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Americans who weren’t born into Korean cuisine have discovered it in many ways and many locales over the past decade or two. Bulgogi folded into tortillas has been handed out through the window of
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.laweekly.com/restaurants/the-korean-taco-justice-league-kogi-rolls-into-la-2158048" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
a roving truck
</a>
. Smoked kimchi has been draped over pulled pork between halves of a cheese-glazed doughnut to make an outdoor food-stall sandwich called
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://gothamist.com/2015/07/12/ribs_ramen_and_the_chonut_all_big_h.php#photo-1" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
the Chonut
</a>
. Hwe, raw fish eaten with condiments that typically spread across an entire table, has been streamlined to one or two bites in
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/16/dining/atomix-review-korean.html" title="">
a tasting menu
</a>
administered by servers in sci-fi tunics. The pork belly dish bo ssam has been reimagined as
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://ssambar.momofuku.com/large-group-dining/bo-ssam/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
a whole roasted pork shoulder
</a>
that a gang of hungry people could use in a bonding ritual involving heads of lettuce, a platter of oysters and a pair of tongs.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
More often than not, the audience for these items is young. Youth, in fact, has been a key part of the story of how kimchi and other dishes spread from immigrants’ kitchens to the Instagram feeds of diners without a single Korean ancestor. You might get a Chonut at Smorgasburg with your roommate, take down a bo ssam at Momofuku Ssam Bar with your friends from college and sit at Atomix’s U-shaped counter to celebrate your first anniversary.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://hwaban.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Hwaban
</a>
, which opened in Chelsea in August, is something different. It’s the modern Korean restaurant where you’d take your mother.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The dining room is spare, sleek and uncontroversial. The brick walls have a recent coat of white paint, and there is plenty of light by which to read the menus. The banquettes and benches have gentle curves and soothing neutral colors. The only vaguely menacing items in sight are the canteloupe-size eyeballs hanging on the walls, but they turn out to be high-tech speakers, and the cocktail jazz they play never rises above a murmur.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Just inside the front door is a lattice of shelves holding simple, geometric bowls and teaware. These give Hwaban the look of a cloistered Parisian salon de thé, which it resembles in other ways as well. Exceptional green tea from South Korea is brewed along with tisanes — made from mulberry leaves, mistletoe stems or dried wild pears — that Korean mothers brew in winter for sneezing and sniffling children.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
<div class="css-79elbk" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper">
<div class="css-z3e15g" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper-hidden">
</div>
<div class="css-1a48zt4 e11si9ry5" data-testid="photoviewer-children">
<figure aria-label="media" class="img-sz-medium css-1l3p632 e1g7ppur0" role="group">
<div class="css-1xdhyk6 erfvjey0">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Image
</span>
<img alt="Lotus roots and microgreens are dressed in a “five-flavor-fruit” vinaigrette." class="css-r3fift" decoding="async" height="400" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02Rest7/merlin_148453050_f7d8d1ea-a3c1-43a2-96d4-be64a07f9b3b-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02Rest7/merlin_148453050_f7d8d1ea-a3c1-43a2-96d4-be64a07f9b3b-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02Rest7/merlin_148453050_f7d8d1ea-a3c1-43a2-96d4-be64a07f9b3b-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/01/02/dining/02Rest7/merlin_148453050_f7d8d1ea-a3c1-43a2-96d4-be64a07f9b3b-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 2048w" width="600"/>
</div>
<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Lotus roots and microgreens are dressed in a “five-flavor-fruit” vinaigrette.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Evan Sung for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
And while some restaurants are saving money by doing without pastry chefs, Hwaban needs two of them to keep up with its obsession with Western-style sweets. One, Ahram Song, is
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.aramcakeboutique.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
a buttercream specialist
</a>
who tints and shapes frosting into botanically detailed flower arrangements decorating chocolate or honey-pecan cakes. Another, Lauren Kim, makes the fleecy cheesecake that is carved into slivers the length of a dinner plate; pretty, well-tailored French numbers like a passion-fruit Pavlova or a drum of white cake filled with fresh strawberries and frosted with whipped cream; and the cookies and toffees that are sold by the box, for takeout.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The illusion that you’ve wandered into a tearoom somewhere on the Right Bank is extended by the drinks list, which has only two Korean sojus and a handful of Japanese sakes but several pages of wines from France. The rest of the menu is unmistakably Korean, and very often it is based on Korean family cooking.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
“This is my mother’s recipe,” Mihyun Han, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Key Kim, will say on one of her frequent circuits around the tables.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
She said it one night about the shaggy white meatball of chicken, tofu and mushrooms — the menu calls it a dumpling — sitting in a warm and transfixing soy-milk broth. Another time, she was talking about what she calls “snowy bibimbap,” a gentle, agreeable wintertime variation on the classic rice dish made with strands of mung bean jelly and shaved burdock, bellflower root, and other vegetables in shades of ivory, cream and bone.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The chef, Woong Jang, does very fine work in white. One of Hwaban’s most luxurious dishes is a length of king crab leg with spinach and a poached egg, all surrounded in a rich pine-nut sauce the color of hotel sheets.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Like the Manhattan restaurants Atomix and
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/29/dining/reviews/jungsik-intribeca-reinterprets-korean-cuisine.html" title="">
Jungsik
</a>
, Hwaban de-emphasizes the sweeter and spicier side of the Korean palate so other flavors can come through. Coins of poached pollock roe are sliced over a block of soft tofu in a clear, subtle dried-seafood broth. Soy-braised abalone is served in an anchovy broth that is, if not exactly subtle, at least soft-spoken.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
<div class="css-79elbk" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper">
<div class="css-z3e15g" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper-hidden">
</div>
<div class="css-1a48zt4 e11si9ry5" data-testid="photoviewer-children">
<figure aria-label="media" class="img-sz-medium css-1l3p632 e1g7ppur0" role="group">
<div class="css-1xdhyk6 erfvjey0">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Image
</span>
<div class="css-zjzyr8" data-testid="lazy-image">
<div data-testid="lazyimage-container" style="height:257.77777777777777px">
</div>
</div>
</div>
<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Hwaban imports cakes made by a specialist in buttercream decoration.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Evan Sung for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
One of two pork belly dishes on the menu involves ssamjang, the potent soy-chile paste now sold in supermarkets throughout the land, but the other does not. In that one, you eat a slice of simmered pork belly together with a pickled mushroom and a square of cabbage kimchi.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
There is, of course, a sharp little kick to the spicy fish stew known as maeun-tang, and a fair amount of chile paste in the
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019612-korean-spicy-chicken-stew-dakdori-tang" title="">
daktori-tang
</a>
, a spin on the classic braised chicken and vegetable dish, both of which Mr. Jang makes very well. But there is also the surprise of tasting ginger and carrots along with the chiles in a bright orange sauce for seared salmon.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Ms. Han and Mr. Kim also own
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://kosakanyc.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Kosaka
</a>
, a chiaroscuro lair for omakase sushi on West 13th Street. I was a little put off by how active the servers were there; just as I was focusing on the piece of fish in front of me, somebody would dart in at one elbow or the other to ask how I was enjoying it all.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The service style is similar at Hwaban, but it plays better there. A meal at Hwaban is also about three times less expensive, at $55 for an appetizer and two main courses. The mains are served at the same time, which Ms. Han says is her attempt to reproduce the abundance of Korean family tables like her mother’s.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Her mother also gets credit for the two-sided fritters of minced shrimp pressed against zucchini coins on the short à la carte menu. They’re served with a crisp pair of fried shrimp and little cubes of jelly that melt into dipping sauce on contact with the warm fritters. The same soy jelly accompanies a kimchi-jeon that’s topped with browned mozzarella — in other words, a kimchi pizza. It would fit right in at Smorgasburg.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
Follow
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://twitter.com/nytfood" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
NYT Food on Twitter
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
and
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.instagram.com/nytcooking/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
NYT Cooking on Instagram
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
,
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.facebook.com/nytcooking/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Facebook
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
and
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.pinterest.com/nytcooking/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Pinterest
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
.
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/newsletters/cooking" title="">
Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
.
</em>
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
</section>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="css-2fttua" id="bottom-wrapper">
<div class="css-l9onyx" id="bottom-slug">
<p>
Advertisement
</p>
</div>
<a class="css-1ly73wi" href="#after-bottom">
Continue reading the main story
</a>
<div class="ad bottom-wrapper css-rfqw0c" id="bottom" style="min-height:90px">
</div>
<div id="after-bottom">
</div>
</div>
</div>
</article>
</div>
</main>
<div>
</div>
<footer class="css-1e1s8k7" role="contentinfo">
<nav class="css-15uy5yv" data-testid="footer">
<h2 class="css-1dv1kvn">
Site Information Navigation
</h2>
<ul class="css-1ho5u4o edvi3so0">
<li data-testid="copyright">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115014792127-Copyright-notice">
©
<span>
2022
</span>
<span>
The New York Times Company
</span>
</a>
</li>
</ul>
<ul class="css-13o0c9t edvi3so1">
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytco.com/">
NYTCo
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115015385887-Contact-Us">
Contact Us
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115015727108-Accessibility">
Accessibility
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytco.com/careers/">
Work with us
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://nytmediakit.com/">
Advertise
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.tbrandstudio.com/">
T Brand Studio
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/privacy/cookie-policy#how-do-i-manage-trackers">
Your Ad Choices
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/privacy/privacy-policy">
Privacy Policy
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115014893428-Terms-of-service">
Terms of Service
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115014893968-Terms-of-sale">
Terms of Sale
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="/sitemap/">
Site Map
</a>
</li>
<li class="mobileOnly css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/ca/?action=click&region=Footer&pgtype=Homepage">
Canada
</a>
</li>
<li class="mobileOnly css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/international/?action=click&region=Footer&pgtype=Homepage">
International
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us">
Help
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/subscription?campaignId=37WXW">
Subscriptions
</a>
</li>
</ul>