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Brined, Smoked, Fried and Then Some: A Cornish Hen Gets the Full Treatment - The New York Times
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<img alt="A Cornish game hen, smoked and fried." class="css-rq4mmj" decoding="async" height="449" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/03/27/dining/26hen1/26hen1-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/03/27/dining/26hen1/26hen1-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/03/27/dining/26hen1/26hen1-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/03/27/dining/26hen1/26hen1-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 2048w" width="600"/>
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A Cornish game hen, smoked and fried.
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Credit...
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Mark Weinberg for The New York Times
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<time class="css-x7rtpa e16638kd0" datetime="2019-03-26T11:41:11-04:00">
March 26, 2019
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Nothing about the appearance of the Cornish game hen at
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/28/dining/restaurant-review-blue-smoke-and-north-end-grill.html" title="">
Blue Smoke
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screams, “I am the best thing you will eat today!” It looks a bit like a deflated football that somebody punctured with a pair of sticks and dragged through the mud.
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In fact, in Blue Smoke’s attempt to bring together the barbecued game hen of
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.cozycornerbbq.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Cozy Corner
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, in Memphis, with the fried hot chicken of places like
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Prince’s,
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in Nashville, the bird has been through a good deal more than that.
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The process goes like this, approximately
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: spatchcocked, brined, rubbed with spices, smoked, chilled, dunked in a frothy batter, tossed in seasoned flour, deep fried, dipped in spicy oil and sprinkled with four kinds of ground pepper.
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“Just a little pop-pop dust right on top” is how Jean-Paul Bourgeois, Blue Smoke’s chef, describes the last step. “That introduction of fresh chile onto that fried chicken, it just brings the zing.” Then came one final touch, he said: “a little swirlybird of Tabasco hot honey.”
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Handily, this can all be shortened to smoked, fried hen when you order ($24 at the Battery Park City location and $26 on East 27th Street). But you’ll know there’s more to it when your jaw smashes through the dark crust with a sonic boom; when the particular forms of heat contributed by habanero, black pepper, Sichuan peppercorn, Aleppo pepper, cayenne and Tabasco sauce all start to pile up and reverberate like
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; when the meat gives up juices that swirl with wood smoke. This is, after all, a barbecue place.
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Blue Smoke, 255 Vesey Street (North End Avenue), Battery Park City, 212-889-2005; and 116 East 27th Street (between Park Avenue South and Lexington Avenue),
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Kips Bay
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, 212-477-7733;
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