-
Notifications
You must be signed in to change notification settings - Fork 1
/
review26.html
1065 lines (1058 loc) · 514 KB
/
review26.html
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
205
206
207
208
209
210
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
231
232
233
234
235
236
237
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
284
285
286
287
288
289
290
291
292
293
294
295
296
297
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
307
308
309
310
311
312
313
314
315
316
317
318
319
320
321
322
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
335
336
337
338
339
340
341
342
343
344
345
346
347
348
349
350
351
352
353
354
355
356
357
358
359
360
361
362
363
364
365
366
367
368
369
370
371
372
373
374
375
376
377
378
379
380
381
382
383
384
385
386
387
388
389
390
391
392
393
394
395
396
397
398
399
400
401
402
403
404
405
406
407
408
409
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
417
418
419
420
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
435
436
437
438
439
440
441
442
443
444
445
446
447
448
449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456
457
458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465
466
467
468
469
470
471
472
473
474
475
476
477
478
479
480
481
482
483
484
485
486
487
488
489
490
491
492
493
494
495
496
497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504
505
506
507
508
509
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517
518
519
520
521
522
523
524
525
526
527
528
529
530
531
532
533
534
535
536
537
538
539
540
541
542
543
544
545
546
547
548
549
550
551
552
553
554
555
556
557
558
559
560
561
562
563
564
565
566
567
568
569
570
571
572
573
574
575
576
577
578
579
580
581
582
583
584
585
586
587
588
589
590
591
592
593
594
595
596
597
598
599
600
601
602
603
604
605
606
607
608
609
610
611
612
613
614
615
616
617
618
619
620
621
622
623
624
625
626
627
628
629
630
631
632
633
634
635
636
637
638
639
640
641
642
643
644
645
646
647
648
649
650
651
652
653
654
655
656
657
658
659
660
661
662
663
664
665
666
667
668
669
670
671
672
673
674
675
676
677
678
679
680
681
682
683
684
685
686
687
688
689
690
691
692
693
694
695
696
697
698
699
700
701
702
703
704
705
706
707
708
709
710
711
712
713
714
715
716
717
718
719
720
721
722
723
724
725
726
727
728
729
730
731
732
733
734
735
736
737
738
739
740
741
742
743
744
745
746
747
748
749
750
751
752
753
754
755
756
757
758
759
760
761
762
763
764
765
766
767
768
769
770
771
772
773
774
775
776
777
778
779
780
781
782
783
784
785
786
787
788
789
790
791
792
793
794
795
796
797
798
799
800
801
802
803
804
805
806
807
808
809
810
811
812
813
814
815
816
817
818
819
820
821
822
823
824
825
826
827
828
829
830
831
832
833
834
835
836
837
838
839
840
841
842
843
844
845
846
847
848
849
850
851
852
853
854
855
856
857
858
859
860
861
862
863
864
865
866
867
868
869
870
871
872
873
874
875
876
877
878
879
880
881
882
883
884
885
886
887
888
889
890
891
892
893
894
895
896
897
898
899
900
901
902
903
904
905
906
907
908
909
910
911
912
913
914
915
916
917
918
919
920
921
922
923
924
925
926
927
928
929
930
931
932
933
934
935
936
937
938
939
940
941
942
943
944
945
946
947
948
949
950
951
952
953
954
955
956
957
958
959
960
961
962
963
964
965
966
967
968
969
970
971
972
973
974
975
976
977
978
979
980
981
982
983
984
985
986
987
988
989
990
991
992
993
994
995
996
997
998
999
1000
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html class="story nytapp-vi-article" lang="en" xmlns:og="http://opengraphprotocol.org/schema/">
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8"/>
<title data-rh="true">
Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish - The New York Times
</title>
<meta content="noarchive, max-image-preview:large" data-rh="true" name="robots"/>
<meta content="At Niche, a new restaurant on the Lower East Side, Shigetoshi Nakamura specializes in mazemen, a ramen style that has been slow to catch on locally." data-rh="true" name="description"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html" data-rh="true" property="og:url"/>
<meta content="article" data-rh="true" property="og:type"/>
<meta content="Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish (Published 2019)" data-rh="true" property="og:title"/>
<meta content="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche2/merlin_153211869_5efcc8d4-a22a-4764-9ba7-c515f0caacc0-facebookJumbo.jpg?year=2019&h=550&w=1050&s=326ef8d8d1c87363991395c047808436a51802fa622ff961adce6c7872992db5&k=ZQJBKqZ0VN" data-rh="true" property="og:image"/>
<meta content="In the Russ &amp; Roe mazemen, smoked salmon and roe over ramen noodles, the new Lower East Side bows to the old." data-rh="true" property="og:image:alt"/>
<meta content="At Niche, a new restaurant on the Lower East Side, Shigetoshi Nakamura specializes in mazemen, a ramen style that has been slow to catch on locally." data-rh="true" property="og:description"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html" data-rh="true" property="twitter:url"/>
<meta content="Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish (Published 2019)" data-rh="true" property="twitter:title"/>
<meta content="At Niche, a new restaurant on the Lower East Side, Shigetoshi Nakamura specializes in mazemen, a ramen style that has been slow to catch on locally." data-rh="true" property="twitter:description"/>
<meta content="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche2/16rest-niche2-videoSixteenByNine3000-v2.jpg?year=2019&h=1688&w=3000&s=1efcdcc470892d4da954ddb23d99025b5ac782ad99a12fc5a39c16308e8b51cd&k=ZQJBKqZ0VN&tw=1" data-rh="true" property="twitter:image"/>
<meta content="In the Russ &amp; Roe mazemen, smoked salmon and roe over ramen noodles, the new Lower East Side bows to the old." data-rh="true" property="twitter:image:alt"/>
<meta content="summary_large_image" data-rh="true" property="twitter:card"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html" rel="canonical"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="nyt://article/27ba1464-9a9d-57f4-95d4-a8ad6a6e935d" rel="alternate"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.amp.html" rel="amphtml"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="https://www.nytimes.com/svc/oembed/json/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nytimes.com%2F2019%2F04%2F16%2Fdining%2Fniche-review-mazemen.html" rel="alternate" title="Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish" type="application/json+oembed"/>
<script data-rh="true" type="application/ld+json">
{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","description":"At Niche, a new restaurant on the Lower East Side, Shigetoshi Nakamura specializes in mazemen, a ramen style that has been slow to catch on locally.","image":[{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche2/16rest-niche2-videoSixteenByNineJumbo1600-v2.jpg","height":900,"width":1600,"caption":"In the Russ & Roe mazemen, smoked salmon and roe over ramen noodles, the new Lower East Side bows to the old."},{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche2/merlin_153211869_5efcc8d4-a22a-4764-9ba7-c515f0caacc0-superJumbo.jpg","height":1365,"width":2048,"caption":"In the Russ & Roe mazemen, smoked salmon and roe over ramen noodles, the new Lower East Side bows to the old."}],"mainEntityOfPage":"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html","author":[{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Person","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/by/pete-wells","name":"Pete Wells"}],"dateModified":"2019-04-18T16:58:29.000Z","datePublished":"2019-04-16T15:17:38.000Z","headline":"Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish","publisher":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightHolder":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"sourceOrganization":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightYear":2022,"isAccessibleForFree":false,"hasPart":{"@type":"WebPageElement","isAccessibleForFree":false,"cssSelector":".meteredContent"},"isPartOf":{"@type":["CreativeWork","Product"],"name":"The New York Times","productID":"nytimes.com:basic"}}
</script>
<script data-rh="true" type="application/ld+json">
{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Review","description":"At Niche, a new restaurant on the Lower East Side, Shigetoshi Nakamura specializes in mazemen, a ramen style that has been slow to catch on locally.","mainEntityOfPage":"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html","sameAs":"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html","author":[{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Person","url":"https://www.nytimes.com/by/pete-wells","name":"Pete Wells"}],"dateModified":"2019-04-18T16:58:29.000Z","datePublished":"2019-04-16T15:17:38.000Z","publisher":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightHolder":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"sourceOrganization":{"@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher"},"copyrightYear":2022,"reviewRating":{"@type":"Rating","worstRating":0,"bestRating":4,"ratingValue":1},"itemReviewed":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Restaurant","image":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche2/merlin_153211869_5efcc8d4-a22a-4764-9ba7-c515f0caacc0-thumbWide.jpg","name":"Niche","sameAs":"http://nakamuranyc.com/niche","servesCuisine":["Japanese"],"priceRange":"$$ (moderate)","telephone":"","geo":{"@type":"GeoCoordinates","longitude":-73.9851122,"latitude":40.7179613},"hasMenu":"Avocado crunch; yuzu scallop crudo; umami kombu fries; steak mazemen; Russ & Roe mazemen; mushroom chile tomato mazemen. When available, the duck mazemen and foie gras dipping sauce are worthwhile. Appetizers, $7 to $12; noodles, $16 to $23. The drinks menu has a very brief but surprisingly well-considered selection of wines, along with four sakes and two beers.","openingHours":"Monday to Saturday for dinner.","acceptsReservations":"No","address":{"@type":"PostalAddress","addressCountry":"","addressLocality":"Lower East Side","addressRegion":"","postalCode":"","streetAddress":"172 Delancey Street"}}}
</script>
<script data-rh="true" type="application/ld+json">
{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","name":"The New York Times","logo":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","url":"https://static01.nyt.com/images/misc/NYT_logo_rss_250x40.png","height":40,"width":250},"url":"https://www.nytimes.com/","@id":"https://www.nytimes.com/#publisher","diversityPolicy":"https://www.nytco.com/diversity-and-inclusion-at-the-new-york-times/","ethicsPolicy":"https://www.nytco.com/who-we-are/culture/standards-and-ethics/","masthead":"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2020/09/08/admin/the-new-york-times-masthead.html","foundingDate":"1851-09-18","sameAs":"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_New_York_Times"}
</script>
<meta content="2019-04-16T15:17:38.000Z" data-rh="true" property="article:published_time"/>
<meta content="2019-04-18T16:58:29.000Z" data-rh="true" property="article:modified_time"/>
<meta content="en" data-rh="true" http-equiv="Content-Language"/>
<meta content="100000006457646" data-rh="true" name="articleid"/>
<meta content="nyt://article/27ba1464-9a9d-57f4-95d4-a8ad6a6e935d" data-rh="true" name="nyt_uri"/>
<meta content="pubp://event/3e2cdb3fdcaa4068a57fc531e4e6d436" data-rh="true" name="pubp_event_id"/>
<meta content="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche2/merlin_153211869_5efcc8d4-a22a-4764-9ba7-c515f0caacc0-facebookJumbo.jpg?year=2019&h=550&w=1050&s=326ef8d8d1c87363991395c047808436a51802fa622ff961adce6c7872992db5&k=ZQJBKqZ0VN" data-rh="true" name="image"/>
<meta content="By Pete Wells" data-rh="true" name="byl"/>
<meta content="Noodle,Restaurant,Soup,Chef,Niche,Lower East Side Manhattan,Shigetoshi Nakamura" data-rh="true" name="news_keywords"/>
<meta content="20190416" data-rh="true" name="pdate"/>
<meta content="Food" data-rh="true" property="article:section"/>
<meta content="Noodles" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Restaurants" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Soups" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Chefs" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Niche (Manhattan, NY, Restaurant)" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Lower East Side (Manhattan, NY)" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="Nakamura, Shigetoshi" data-rh="true" property="article:tag"/>
<meta content="false" data-rh="true" property="article:opinion"/>
<meta content="metered" data-rh="true" property="article:content_tier"/>
<meta content="dining" data-rh="true" name="CG"/>
<meta content="" data-rh="true" name="SCG"/>
<meta content="restaurant-review" data-rh="true" name="CN"/>
<meta content="" data-rh="true" name="CT"/>
<meta content="article" data-rh="true" name="PT"/>
<meta content="Review" data-rh="true" name="PST"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html" data-rh="true" name="url"/>
<meta content="https://www.nytimes.com" data-rh="true" name="msapplication-starturl"/>
<meta content="nyt://article/27ba1464-9a9d-57f4-95d4-a8ad6a6e935d" data-rh="true" property="al:android:url"/>
<meta content="com.nytimes.android" data-rh="true" property="al:android:package"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" property="al:android:app_name"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" name="twitter:app:name:googleplay"/>
<meta content="com.nytimes.android" data-rh="true" name="twitter:app:id:googleplay"/>
<meta content="nyt://article/27ba1464-9a9d-57f4-95d4-a8ad6a6e935d" data-rh="true" name="twitter:app:url:googleplay"/>
<meta content="nytimes://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html" data-rh="true" property="al:iphone:url"/>
<meta content="284862083" data-rh="true" property="al:iphone:app_store_id"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" property="al:iphone:app_name"/>
<meta content="nytimes://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html" data-rh="true" property="al:ipad:url"/>
<meta content="357066198" data-rh="true" property="al:ipad:app_store_id"/>
<meta content="NYTimes" data-rh="true" property="al:ipad:app_name"/>
<meta content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1" name="viewport"/>
<meta content="9869919170" property="fb:app_id"/>
<meta content="@nytimes" name="twitter:site"/>
<meta content="A0121HXPPTQ" name="slack-app-id"/>
<script>
const override = (new URL(window.location)).searchParams.get('sentryOverride');
if (override || Math.floor(Math.random() * 100) <= 1) {
document.write('<script src="https://js.sentry-cdn.com/7bc8bccf5c254286a99b11c68f6bf4ce.min.js" crossorigin="anonymous">' + '<' + '/script>');
}
</script>
<script>
if (window.Sentry) {
window.Sentry.onLoad(function() {
window.Sentry.init({
maxBreadcrumbs: 30,
release: '406009e4306a66f29d4a81aea1c595ab893fce5e',
environment: 'prd',
beforeSend: function(e, v) {
if (/amazon-adsystem|ads-us|ampproject|amp4ads|pubads|2mdn|chartbeat|gsi|bk_addPageCtx|yimg|BOOMR|boomerang/.test(v.originalException && v.originalException.stack || '')) return null;
return e;
}
});
});
}
</script>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/favicon-d2483f10ef688e6f89e23806b9700298.ico" rel="shortcut icon"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/apple-touch-icon-28865b72953380a40aa43318108876cb.png" rel="apple-touch-icon"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/ios-ipad-144x144-28865b72953380a40aa43318108876cb.png" rel="apple-touch-icon-precomposed" sizes="144×144"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/ios-iphone-114x144-080e7ec6514fdc62bcbb7966d9b257d2.png" rel="apple-touch-icon-precomposed" sizes="114×114"/>
<link data-rh="true" href="/vi-assets/static-assets/ios-default-homescreen-57x57-43808a4cd5333b648057a01624d84960.png" rel="apple-touch-icon-precomposed"/>
<link href="https://g1.nyt.com/fonts/css/web-fonts.b1c035e4560e0216caf8f03326e0430712b61041.css" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css"/>
<link href="/vi-assets/static-assets/global-a390e9d7a067927dd253742a2f0124d4.css" rel="stylesheet"/>
<style>
[data-timezone] { display: none }
</style>
<style data-lights-css="1dv1kvn 1hyfx7x nuvmzp 1k0lris 9e9ivx hnzl8o 6n7j50 1kj7lfb 10m9xeu 1fe7a5q 1f8er69 10488qs 1e1s8k7 15uy5yv jq1cx6 1g7m0tk vxcmzt 113xjf1 1baulvz 1sirvy4 1xlo06v 79elbk 1uhsiac 1k1icib 1w38vn7 1n60tr3 1wo2tr0 q1aqo6 1dtr3u3 jyqt2x 2urdiw 18um6j6 1tel06d 12fr9lp 18z7m18 k008qs 1aor85t 1hqnpie epjblv fwqvlz 17xtcya x15j1o tvohiw 1iwv8en 1n6z4y 1ly73wi rfqw0c 19vbshk l9onyx s99gbd 53u6y8 13pd83m zjzyr8 z3e15g bsn42l sklrp3 1xhl2m hyytny 5nx6oe 9kcu5u 1e85yo t4350i 1r7ky0e ew4tgv z4hz5 170u9t6 1c4e8vg 83hgbf up6b8e 1q2w90k 1bymuyk ui9rw0 1f7ibof fzvsed 123u7tk tkwi90 1wr3we4 10698na nhjhh0 y3sf94 htw48t fozwf3 1r0gz1j 1o0kkht 1bvtpon 4skfbu 9eyi4s 4wep0k 1dtsvfy swbuts 1vxca1d z1t82k 1vkm6nb n3eewq 1gxs0ky 8qgvsz fb7l6r 11jlzyd 1a48zt4 rq4mmj 13o4bnb 16f3y1r cnj6d5 233int aknsld mrorfa g5piaz 2fttua 1ho5u4o 13o0c9t a7htku 2fg4z9 1xdhyk6 r3fift 1e2jphy c2jxua xt80pu 1u1psjv ccw2r3 129k401 1wa6gzb 1l3p632 1l44abu ky4dag 139djpt 1pv2nfg ref0xf 13m361n name 5j8bii duration delay timing-function">
@-webkit-keyframes animation-5j8bii{from{opacity:0;}to{opacity:1;}}@keyframes animation-5j8bii{from{opacity:0;}to{opacity:1;}}.css-1dv1kvn{border:0;-webkit-clip:rect(0 0 0 0);clip:rect(0 0 0 0);height:1px;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;padding:0;position:absolute;width:1px;}.css-1hyfx7x{display:none;}.css-nuvmzp{font-size:14.25px;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:700;text-transform:uppercase;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.7px;-moz-letter-spacing:0.7px;-ms-letter-spacing:0.7px;letter-spacing:0.7px;line-height:19px;}.css-nuvmzp:hover{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}.css-1k0lris{color:#326891;height:12px;margin-left:8px;padding-left:8px;}.css-9e9ivx{display:none;font-size:10px;margin-left:auto;text-transform:uppercase;}.hasLinks .css-9e9ivx{display:block;}@media (min-width:740px){.hasLinks .css-9e9ivx{margin:none;position:absolute;right:20px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.hasLinks .css-9e9ivx{display:none;}}.css-hnzl8o{display:inline-block;font-size:12px;-webkit-transition:color 0.6s ease;transition:color 0.6s ease;color:#121212;}.css-hnzl8o:hover{color:#666;}.css-6n7j50{display:inline;}.css-1kj7lfb{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1kj7lfb{display:inline-block;margin-right:7px;}}.css-10m9xeu{display:block;width:16px;height:16px;}.css-1fe7a5q{display:inline-block;height:16px;vertical-align:sub;width:16px;}.css-1f8er69{border:0;-webkit-clip:rect(0 0 0 0);clip:rect(0 0 0 0);height:1px;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;padding:0;position:absolute;width:1px;border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;background:#fff;display:inline-block;left:44px;text-transform:uppercase;-webkit-transition:none;transition:none;}.css-1f8er69:active,.css-1f8er69:focus{-webkit-clip:auto;clip:auto;overflow:visible;width:auto;height:auto;}.css-1f8er69::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-1f8er69:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-1f8er69:disabled,.css-1f8er69.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-1f8er69:active,.css-1f8er69.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1f8er69:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}.css-1f8er69:focus{margin-top:3px;padding:8px 8px 6px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1f8er69{left:112px;}}.css-10488qs{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-10488qs{display:inline-block;position:relative;}}.css-1e1s8k7{font-size:11px;text-align:center;padding-bottom:25px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1e1s8k7{padding:0 3% 9px;}}.css-1e1s8k7.dockVisible{padding-bottom:45px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1e1s8k7.dockVisible{padding:0 3% 45px;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-1e1s8k7{margin:0 auto;max-width:1200px;}}.NYTApp .css-1e1s8k7{display:none;}@media print{.css-1e1s8k7{display:none;}}.css-15uy5yv{border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:9px;}.css-jq1cx6{color:#666;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;padding:10px 0;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap;}.css-jq1cx6:hover{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}.css-1g7m0tk{color:#326891;}.css-1g7m0tk:visited{color:#326891;}.css-vxcmzt{display:-webkit-inline-box;display:-webkit-inline-flex;display:-ms-inline-flexbox;display:inline-flex;}.css-113xjf1{position:relative;display:-webkit-inline-box;display:-webkit-inline-flex;display:-ms-inline-flexbox;display:inline-flex;vertical-align:top;}.css-1baulvz{display:inline-block;}.css-1sirvy4{padding:0;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-1sirvy4{margin-left:-9px;margin-right:-10px;}}.css-1xlo06v{color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-1xlo06v{margin-right:6px;}}.css-1xlo06v > a,.css-1xlo06v > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-1xlo06v > a:focus,.css-1xlo06v > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-1xlo06v > a:focus,.css-1xlo06v > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-1xlo06v > a:focus-visible,.css-1xlo06v > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1xlo06v > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-1xlo06v:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}.css-79elbk{position:relative;}.css-1uhsiac{height:auto;width:auto;border-radius:100%;background-color:transparent;}.css-1uhsiac:focus{outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-1uhsiac:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-1uhsiac:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1k1icib{display:none;width:215px;position:absolute;background-color:#000;border:1px solid #000;box-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.15);border-radius:4px;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.75rem;line-height:1rem;color:#121212;box-sizing:border-box;top:38px;left:2px;z-index:199;}.css-1k1icib button{width:10px;position:absolute;right:9px;top:9px;background:transparent;}.css-1k1icib svg{stroke:#fff;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-1k1icib{left:-9px;}}.css-1w38vn7{border:9px inset transparent;display:inline-block;height:0;position:absolute;width:0;border-bottom:12px solid #000;left:4%;top:-21px;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-1w38vn7{left:8%;}}.css-1n60tr3{border:10px inset transparent;display:inline-block;height:0;position:absolute;width:0;border-bottom:14px solid #000;bottom:-15px;left:-10px;}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-1n60tr3{border-bottom:14px solid #000;}}.css-1wo2tr0{font-size:0.75rem;line-height:1.0625rem;}.css-1wo2tr0 strong{font-weight:700;}.css-q1aqo6{height:auto;width:auto;border-radius:30px;background-color:transparent;}.css-q1aqo6:focus{outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 4px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-q1aqo6:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-q1aqo6:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 4px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1dtr3u3{color:#000;font-size:0.75rem;line-height:0.75rem;margin-top:auto;}.css-1dtr3u3 a{color:#000;}.css-jyqt2x{background-color:#fff;border:1px #dfdfdf solid;border-radius:30px;padding:6px;padding:8px 10px 7px;display:inline-block;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-jyqt2x{padding:8px 7px 7px;}}.css-jyqt2x:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;border-color:#dfdfdf;opacity:0.8;}.css-2urdiw{vertical-align:middle;margin-top:-1px;margin-right:5px;overflow:visible;}.css-18um6j6{height:auto;width:auto;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;background-color:#fff;border-radius:100%;}.css-18um6j6:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;border:1px solid #dfdfdf;}.css-18um6j6 .hiddenClass{display:none;}.css-1tel06d{display:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1tel06d{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;width:16px;height:31px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1tel06d{display:none;}}@media print{.css-1tel06d{display:none;}}.css-12fr9lp{height:23px;margin-top:6px;}.css-18z7m18{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-18z7m18{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;margin-top:0;}}@media print{.css-18z7m18{display:block;}}.css-k008qs{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}.css-1aor85t{display:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1aor85t{position:fixed;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;opacity:0;z-index:1;-webkit-transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;width:100%;height:32.063px;background:white;padding:5px 0;top:0;text-align:center;font-family:nyt-cheltenham,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;box-shadow:rgba(0,0,0,0.08) 0 0 5px 1px;border-bottom:1px solid #e2e2e2;}}@media print{.css-1aor85t{position:relative;border:none;display:inline-block;opacity:1 !important;visibility:visible !important;}}.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;max-width:1605px;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;position:relative;width:100%;}@media (min-width:1360px){.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}}@media (min-width:1780px){.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media print{.css-1hqnpie{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-epjblv{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:row;-ms-flex-direction:row;flex-direction:row;max-width:1605px;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:56%;margin-left:calc((100% - 56%) / 2);}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-epjblv{width:53%;margin-left:calc((100% - 53%) / 2);}}@media print{.css-epjblv{display:none;}}.css-fwqvlz{font-family:nyt-cheltenham-small,georgia,'times new roman';font-weight:400;font-size:13px;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.015em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.015em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.015em;letter-spacing:0.015em;margin-top:10.5px;margin-right:auto;white-space:nowrap;overflow:hidden;text-overflow:ellipsis;}.css-17xtcya{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:700;font-size:12.5px;text-transform:uppercase;-webkit-letter-spacing:0;-moz-letter-spacing:0;-ms-letter-spacing:0;letter-spacing:0;margin-top:12.5px;margin-bottom:auto;margin-left:auto;white-space:nowrap;}.css-17xtcya:hover{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}.css-x15j1o{display:inline-block;padding-left:7px;padding-right:7px;font-size:13px;margin-top:10px;margin-bottom:auto;color:#ccc;}.css-tvohiw{margin-top:-1px;margin-bottom:auto;margin-left:auto;z-index:50;box-shadow:-14px 2px 7px -2px rgba(255,255,255,0.7);}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1iwv8en{margin-top:1px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1iwv8en{margin-top:0;}}.css-1n6z4y{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#ccc !important;border-left:1px solid #ccc;margin-left:10px;padding:10px;display:none;}@media print{.css-1n6z4y{display:inline-block;}}.css-1ly73wi{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;margin:-1px;padding:0;border:0;-webkit-clip:rect(0 0 0 0);clip:rect(0 0 0 0);overflow:hidden;}.css-rfqw0c{text-align:center;height:100%;display:block;}.css-19vbshk{color:#ccc;display:none;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.5625rem;font-weight:300;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05rem;letter-spacing:0.05rem;line-height:0.5625rem;margin-left:auto;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-19vbshk{display:inline-block;}}.css-19vbshk p{margin-bottom:auto;margin-right:7px;margin-top:auto;text-transform:none;}.css-l9onyx{color:#ccc;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.5625rem;font-weight:300;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05rem;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05rem;letter-spacing:0.05rem;line-height:0.5625rem;margin-bottom:9px;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;}.css-s99gbd{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;margin-bottom:1rem;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-s99gbd{-webkit-flex-direction:row;-ms-flex-direction:row;flex-direction:row;height:100%;width:945px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-s99gbd{width:1110px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1280px){.css-s99gbd{width:1170px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-s99gbd{width:1200px;}}@media print{.css-s99gbd{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media print{.css-s99gbd{margin-bottom:1em;display:block;}}.css-53u6y8{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;width:100%;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-53u6y8{margin-left:calc((100% - 600px) / 2);margin-right:0;width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-53u6y8{max-width:600px;width:600px;margin-left:calc((100% - 600px) / 2);}}@media print{.css-53u6y8{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-13pd83m{top:0;position:-webkit-sticky;position:sticky;background-color:white;z-index:902;}@media print{.css-13pd83m{display:none;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-13pd83m{margin-top:3px;}}.css-zjzyr8{width:100%;background-color:#f7f7f5;}.css-z3e15g{position:fixed;opacity:0;-webkit-scroll-events:none;-moz-scroll-events:none;-ms-scroll-events:none;scroll-events:none;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;-webkit-transition:opacity 0.2s;transition:opacity 0.2s;background-color:#fff;pointer-events:none;}.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:50%;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:300px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:300px;}}@media (max-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-bsn42l{width:50%;}}.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption .css-bsn42l{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutVertical .css-bsn42l{max-width:250px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.sizeSmall.layoutVertical .css-bsn42l{width:250px;}}@media (max-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutVertical .css-bsn42l{max-width:250px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutHorizontal .css-bsn42l{max-width:300px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.sizeSmall.layoutHorizontal .css-bsn42l{width:300px;}}@media (max-width:740px){.sizeSmall.layoutHorizontal .css-bsn42l{max-width:300px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo .css-bsn42l{width:310px;}}.css-sklrp3{margin:28px 0;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1xhl2m{border-top:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.33);padding-top:24px;}}.css-hyytny{width:100%;height:100%;max-height:150px;position:absolute;z-index:1;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(0,0,0,0.7));}@media (max-width:600px){.css-hyytny{background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(0,0,0,0.7));}}.css-5nx6oe{position:absolute;width:90%;bottom:51px;z-index:2;left:0;right:0;margin:auto;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-5nx6oe{bottom:45px;}}.css-9kcu5u{color:#fff;font-family:nyt-cheltenham,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-size:1.375rem;line-height:1.5rem;font-weight:500;margin-bottom:12px;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-9kcu5u{font-size:1.5rem;line-height:1.75rem;margin-bottom:19px;}}.css-1e85yo{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.8125rem;line-height:0.8125rem;color:#fff;font-weight:500;display:inline-block;padding-right:0.75rem;vertical-align:middle;position:relative;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.03em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.03em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.03em;letter-spacing:0.03em;}.css-1e85yo:first-child{background-image:url('/vi-assets/static-assets/icon-slideshow-3b83378d3d0125cb77d5cc6c291072e2.svg');background-repeat:no-repeat;display:inline-block;width:24px;height:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1e85yo:first-child{width:30px;height:25px;font-size:0.9375rem;line-height:0.9375rem;}}.css-1e85yo:last-child{border-left:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.33);padding-left:0.75rem;}.css-t4350i{font-size:1rem;vertical-align:middle;position:absolute;right:4px;bottom:0;-webkit-transition:right 0.18s ease-out;transition:right 0.18s ease-out;}.css-1r7ky0e .e6idgb70 + .e1h9rw200{margin-top:0;}.css-1r7ky0e .eoo0vm40 + .e1gnsphs0{margin-top:-0.3em;}.css-1r7ky0e .e6idgb70 + .eoo0vm40{margin-top:0;}.css-1r7ky0e .eoo0vm40 + figure{margin-top:1.2rem;}.css-1r7ky0e .e1gnsphs0 + figure{margin-top:1.2rem;}.css-ew4tgv{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ew4tgv{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;margin-right:0;margin-left:auto;width:130px;-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-ew4tgv{width:210px;}}@media print{.css-ew4tgv{display:none;}}.css-z4hz5{color:#c5a257;}.css-170u9t6{margin:20px auto;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-170u9t6{max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-170u9t6{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-1c4e8vg{-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:0.875rem;-webkit-box-pack:justify;-webkit-justify-content:space-between;-ms-flex-pack:justify;justify-content:space-between;line-height:1.25rem;min-height:26px;padding:5px 0;}.css-1c4e8vg:first-of-type{border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:10px;}.css-1c4e8vg:last-of-type{border-bottom:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-bottom:10px;}.css-1c4e8vg dt{color:#121212;display:inline-block;font-size:0.875rem;font-weight:700;line-height:1.25rem;margin-right:10px;}.Hybrid.DarkTheme .css-1c4e8vg dt{color:#ebebeb;}.css-1c4e8vg dd{color:#333;font-weight:500;border-right:1px solid #ebebeb;display:inline-block;margin-right:10px;padding-right:10px;}.css-1c4e8vg dd:last-of-type{border:none;}@media print{.css-1c4e8vg dd{border-right:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-right:10px;margin-right:10px;display:inline-block;}.css-1c4e8vg dd:last-of-type{border:none;}}.Hybrid.DarkTheme .css-1c4e8vg dd{color:#ccc;}.css-83hgbf{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;-webkit-box-pack:center;-webkit-justify-content:center;-ms-flex-pack:center;justify-content:center;max-width:100%;width:100%;}.css-up6b8e{display:inline-block;}.css-up6b8e i{background-image:url('data:image/svg+xml;utf8,%0A%20%20%3Csvg%20xmlns%3D%22http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%22%20viewBox%3D%220%200%2016%2016%22%3E%0A%20%20%3Cpath%0A%20%20%20%20fill%3D%22%23c5a257%22%0A%20%20%20%20d%3D%22M14.34%2C8.83%2C16%2C8l-1.66-.83%2C1.38-1.24-1.82-.38%2C1-1.55-1.74.1h0c.66-.57%2C1.15-1%2C2.65-2.18l-2.7-.84c-.48.44-.87.8-1.21%2C1.14L12%2C1.07l-1.55%2C1L10.07.27%2C8.84%2C1.65%2C8%2C0%2C7.16%2C1.65%2C5.93.27%2C5.55%2C2.09%2C4%2C1.07l.1%2C1.85L2.34%2C2.34%2C2.92%2C4.1%2C1.07%2C4l1%2C1.55L.27%2C5.93%2C1.66%2C7.17%2C0%2C8l1.66.83L.27%2C10.07l1.82.38L1.07%2C12l1.85-.1-.58%2C1.76%2C1.76-.58L4%2C14.93l1.55-1%2C.38%2C1.81%2C1.23-1.38L8%2C16l.84-1.65%2C1.23%2C1.38.38-1.81%2C1.55%2C1-.1-1.85%2C1.76.58-.58-1.76%2C1.85.1-1-1.55%2C1.82-.38ZM8%2C13.14a5.14%2C5.14%2C0%2C1%2C1%2C2.67-9.52l-.48.61a27.9%2C27.9%2C0%2C0%2C0-2.56%2C4L6.14%2C6l-1.36.82%2C3.08%2C4.52C9%2C9.42%2C9.5%2C8.56%2C10.07%2C7.7A18.66%2C18.66%2C0%2C0%2C1%2C12.2%2C5%2C5.13%2C5.13%2C0%2C0%2C1%2C8%2C13.14Z%22%20%2F%3E%0A%20%20%3C%2Fsvg%3E%0A');display:inline-block;height:16px;margin-right:4px;margin-top:-3px;vertical-align:middle;width:16px;}.css-1q2w90k{opacity:1;visibility:visible;-webkit-animation-name:animation-5j8bii;animation-name:animation-5j8bii;-webkit-animation-duration:300ms;animation-duration:300ms;-webkit-animation-delay:0ms;animation-delay:0ms;-webkit-animation-timing-function:ease-out;animation-timing-function:ease-out;}@media print{.css-1q2w90k{display:none;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1q2w90k{position:fixed;width:100%;top:0;left:0;z-index:200;background-color:#fff;border-bottom:none;-webkit-transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;transition:all 0.2s ease-in-out;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1bymuyk{position:relative;border-bottom:1px solid #e2e2e2;}}.css-ui9rw0{background:#fff;border-bottom:1px solid #e2e2e2;height:36px;padding:8px 15px 3px;position:relative;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ui9rw0{background:#fff;padding:10px 15px 6px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ui9rw0{background:transparent;border-bottom:0;padding:4px 15px 2px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ui9rw0{margin:0 auto;max-width:1605px;}}.css-1f7ibof{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-box-pack:space-around;-webkit-justify-content:space-around;-ms-flex-pack:space-around;justify-content:space-around;left:10px;position:absolute;}@media print{.css-1f7ibof{display:none;}}.css-fzvsed{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;border:0;padding:8px 9px;text-transform:uppercase;}.css-fzvsed.hidden{opacity:0;visibility:hidden;}.css-fzvsed.hidden:focus{opacity:1;}.css-fzvsed::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-fzvsed:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-fzvsed:disabled,.css-fzvsed.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-fzvsed:active,.css-fzvsed.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-fzvsed:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-fzvsed{display:none;}}.css-123u7tk{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:#fff;border:1px solid #ebebeb;color:#333;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:500;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;text-transform:uppercase;display:none;padding:8px 9px 9px;}.css-123u7tk::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-123u7tk:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-123u7tk:disabled,.css-123u7tk.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-123u7tk:active,.css-123u7tk.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-123u7tk:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-123u7tk{border:0;display:inline-block;margin-right:8px;}}.css-tkwi90{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;border:0;}.css-tkwi90::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-tkwi90:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-tkwi90:disabled,.css-tkwi90.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-tkwi90:active,.css-tkwi90.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-tkwi90:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}.css-tkwi90.activeSearchButton{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-tkwi90{padding:8px 9px 9px;}}.css-1wr3we4{display:none;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1wr3we4{display:block;position:absolute;left:105px;line-height:19px;top:10px;}}.css-10698na{text-align:center;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-10698na{padding-top:0;}}@media print{.css-10698na a[href]::after{content:'';}.css-10698na svg{fill:black;}}.css-nhjhh0{display:block;width:189px;height:26px;margin:5px auto 0;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-nhjhh0{width:225px;height:31px;margin:4px auto 0;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-nhjhh0{width:195px;height:26px;margin:6px auto 0;}}.css-y3sf94{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-box-pack:space-around;-webkit-justify-content:space-around;-ms-flex-pack:space-around;justify-content:space-around;position:absolute;right:10px;top:9px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-y3sf94{top:4px;}}@media print{.css-y3sf94{display:none;}}.css-htw48t{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:#567b95;border:1px solid #326891;color:#fff;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05em;letter-spacing:0.05em;padding:11px 12px 8px;text-transform:uppercase;display:inline-block;}.css-htw48t::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-htw48t:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-htw48t:disabled,.css-htw48t.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-htw48t:hover{background-color:#326891;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-htw48t{padding:11px 12px 8px;height:11px;color:#fff !important;}}.css-htw48t:hover{border:1px solid #326891;}.css-fozwf3{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:transparent;color:#000;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.02em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.02em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.02em;letter-spacing:0.02em;padding:11px 12px 8px;border:0;display:block;padding:7px 9px 9px;}.css-fozwf3.hidden{opacity:0;visibility:hidden;}.css-fozwf3.hidden:focus{opacity:1;}.css-fozwf3::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-fozwf3:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-fozwf3:disabled,.css-fozwf3.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}.css-fozwf3:active,.css-fozwf3.active{background-color:#f7f7f7;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-fozwf3:hover{background-color:#f7f7f7;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-fozwf3{border:none;line-height:13px;padding:9px 9px 12px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-fozwf3{display:none;}}.css-1r0gz1j{-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px;-webkit-box-pack:space-around;-webkit-justify-content:space-around;-ms-flex-pack:space-around;justify-content:space-around;padding:13px 20px 12px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1r0gz1j{position:relative;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1r0gz1j{-webkit-box-pack:justify;-webkit-justify-content:space-between;-ms-flex-pack:justify;justify-content:space-between;border:none;padding:0;height:0;-webkit-transform:translateY(38px);-ms-transform:translateY(38px);transform:translateY(38px);-webkit-align-items:flex-end;-webkit-box-align:flex-end;-ms-flex-align:flex-end;align-items:flex-end;}}@media print{.css-1r0gz1j{display:none;}}.css-1o0kkht{color:#121212;font-size:0.6875rem;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;display:none;width:auto;font-weight:700;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1o0kkht{text-align:center;width:100%;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1o0kkht{font-size:12px;width:auto;margin-bottom:5px;}}.css-1bvtpon{display:none;}.css-4skfbu{color:#999;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-shrink:0;-ms-flex-negative:0;flex-shrink:0;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:17px;margin-bottom:5px;margin-bottom:0;}@media print{.css-4skfbu{display:none;}}.css-9eyi4s{color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;position:relative;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-9eyi4s{margin-right:6px;}}.css-9eyi4s > a,.css-9eyi4s > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-9eyi4s > a:focus,.css-9eyi4s > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-9eyi4s > a:focus,.css-9eyi4s > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-9eyi4s > a:focus-visible,.css-9eyi4s > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-9eyi4s > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-9eyi4s:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}.css-4wep0k{display:inline-block;vertical-align:middle;width:20px;background-color:#fff;border:1px #dfdfdf solid;border-radius:100%;padding:6px;overflow:initial;vertical-align:middle;height:20px;}.css-4wep0k:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;border:1px solid #dfdfdf;}.css-4wep0k:focus{border-radius:100%;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-4wep0k:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-4wep0k:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-1dtsvfy{direction:ltr;display:inline-block;vertical-align:middle;background-color:#fff;color:#333;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;-webkit-transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;border-radius:30px;padding:6px 10px 6px;font-size:0.75rem;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;line-height:0.9375rem;text-align:right;font-weight:500;background-color:#fff;color:#333;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;-webkit-transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;transition:background-color 0.1s,color 0.1s;}.css-1dtsvfy:hover{background-color:#ebebeb;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-1dtsvfy{padding:6px 7px 5px;}}.css-1dtsvfy svg path{fill:#333;-webkit-transition:fill 0.5s;transition:fill 0.5s;}.css-1dtsvfy svg{margin-right:5px;vertical-align:-6px;height:20px;}.css-1dtsvfy svg path{fill:#333;-webkit-transition:fill 0.5s;transition:fill 0.5s;}.css-swbuts{height:18px;width:18px;padding:7px;overflow:visible;vertical-align:middle;cursor:not-allowed;}.css-swbuts g{stroke-width:0.1px;}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-swbuts:hover g,.css-swbuts:focus g{stroke:#333;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-swbuts:hover g,.css-swbuts:focus g{stroke:#666;opacity:1;}}.css-1vxca1d{position:relative;margin:0 auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1vxca1d{margin:0 auto 20px;}}.css-1vxca1d .relatedcoverage + .recirculation{margin-top:20px;}.css-1vxca1d .wrap + .recirculation{margin-top:20px;}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1vxca1d{padding-top:40px;}}.css-z1t82k{display:none;min-height:280px;}@media (min-width:765px){.css-z1t82k{background-color:#f7f7f7;border-bottom:1px solid #f3f3f3;display:block;padding-bottom:15px;padding-top:15px;margin:0;}}@media print{.css-z1t82k{display:none;}}.css-n3eewq{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-style:normal;font-weight:500;font-size:1rem;line-height:1rem;color:#000;padding:21px 20px 15px 22px;text-align:left;padding:13px 15px 12px 15px;color:#fff;}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-n3eewq{position:static;top:auto;left:auto;overflow-y:hidden;font-size:0.875rem;line-height:0.875rem;padding:14px;}}.css-1gxs0ky{font-size:0.75rem;line-height:1.0625rem;font-size:0.875rem;margin-bottom:4px;}.css-1gxs0ky strong{font-weight:700;}.css-8qgvsz{font-weight:700;}.css-fb7l6r{color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;color:#999;display:inline;margin-right:12px;width:100%;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-fb7l6r{margin-right:6px;}}.css-fb7l6r > a,.css-fb7l6r > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus-visible,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-fb7l6r:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}@media (max-width:420px){.css-fb7l6r{margin-right:6px;}}.css-fb7l6r > a,.css-fb7l6r > button{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{display:inline-block;outline:none;box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}@supports selector(:focus-visible){.css-fb7l6r > a:focus,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus{box-shadow:none;}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus-visible,.css-fb7l6r > button:focus-visible{box-shadow:0 0 2px 1px rgb(0 95 204);}}.css-fb7l6r > a:focus{border-radius:100%;}.css-fb7l6r:last-of-type{margin-right:0;}.css-11jlzyd{background:none;border-radius:10px;background-color:#fff;border:solid 1px #dfdfdf;border-radius:17px;display:none;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;height:34px;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.2px;-moz-letter-spacing:0.2px;-ms-letter-spacing:0.2px;letter-spacing:0.2px;line-height:1;padding:5px 0 3px;position:relative;top:-1px;width:82px;}@media (max-width:600px){.css-11jlzyd{width:76px;}}.css-11jlzyd:hover{border-color:#ccc;}@media (hover:none) and (pointer:coarse) and (max-width:600px) and (min-width:375px){.css-11jlzyd{display:inline-block;}}.css-1a48zt4{opacity:1;-webkit-transition:opacity 0.3s 0.2s;transition:opacity 0.3s 0.2s;}.css-rq4mmj{height:auto;width:100%;width:100%;vertical-align:top;}.css-rq4mmj img{width:100%;vertical-align:top;}.css-13o4bnb{color:#666;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;margin:10px 20px 0;text-align:left;}.css-13o4bnb a{color:#326891;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-13o4bnb a:hover,.css-13o4bnb a:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;}}.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-direction:column;-ms-flex-direction:column;flex-direction:column;width:calc(50% - 15px);margin:auto 0 15px 15px;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{width:260px;margin-left:15px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:15px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{width:330px;margin-left:15px;}}@media (max-width:600px){.sizeSmall .css-13o4bnb{margin:auto 0 0 15px;}}.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;margin-top:10px;}.sizeMedium .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;}.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{max-width:none;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:20px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:20px;max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;max-width:720px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeLarge .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeLarge.layoutVertical .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:0;}}.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{margin-left:20px;}@media (min-width:600px){.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:740px){.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.sizeFull .css-13o4bnb{max-width:900px;}}@media print{.css-13o4bnb{display:none;}}.css-16f3y1r{margin-right:7px;color:#666;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-size:0.875rem;line-height:1.125rem;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-16f3y1r{font-size:0.9375rem;line-height:1.25rem;}}.Hybrid.DarkTheme .css-16f3y1r{color:#ccc;}.css-16f3y1r strong{font-weight:700;}.css-16f3y1r em{font-style:italic;}.css-16f3y1r a{color:#326891;}.css-16f3y1r a:visited{color:#326891;}.css-cnj6d5{display:inline;color:#888;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;line-height:1.125rem;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.01em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.01em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.01em;letter-spacing:0.01em;font-size:0.75rem;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-cnj6d5{font-size:0.75rem;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-cnj6d5{font-size:0.8125rem;}}.css-233int{display:inline-block;}.css-aknsld{display:inline-block;margin:0;font-size:0.875rem;line-height:1.125rem;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:700;color:#333;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-aknsld{font-size:0.9375rem;line-height:1.25rem;}}.css-mrorfa{color:#333;-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:1px;-webkit-text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-decoration-thickness:1px;-webkit-text-decoration-color:#ccc;text-decoration-color:#ccc;}.css-mrorfa:hover,.css-mrorfa:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-g5piaz{margin-bottom:0.78125rem;margin-top:0;overflow-wrap:break-word;font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-size:1.125rem;line-height:1.5625rem;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-g5piaz{margin-bottom:0.9375rem;margin-top:0;}}.css-g5piaz .css-1g7m0tk{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;-webkit-text-decoration-style:solid;text-decoration-style:solid;-webkit-text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-decoration-thickness:1px;-webkit-text-decoration-color:#326891;text-decoration-color:#326891;}.css-g5piaz .css-1g7m0tk:hover,.css-g5piaz .css-1g7m0tk:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-g5piaz{font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1.875rem;}}.css-g5piaz:first-child{margin-top:0;}.css-g5piaz:last-child{margin-bottom:0;}.css-g5piaz.e1h9rw200:last-child{margin-bottom:0.75rem;}.css-g5piaz.eoo0vm40:first-child{margin-top:0.8125rem;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-g5piaz{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-g5piaz{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}.css-g5piaz.eoo0vm40:first-child{margin-top:1.1875rem;}}@media print{.css-g5piaz{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-2fttua{background-color:#f7f7f7;border-bottom:1px solid #f3f3f3;border-top:1px solid #f3f3f3;margin:37px auto;padding-bottom:30px;padding-top:12px;text-align:center;margin-top:60px;min-height:280px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-2fttua{margin:43px auto;}}@media print{.css-2fttua{display:none;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-2fttua{margin-bottom:0;margin-top:0;}}.css-1ho5u4o{list-style:none;margin:0 0 15px;padding:0;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1ho5u4o{display:inline-block;}}.css-13o0c9t{list-style:none;line-height:8px;margin:0 0 35px;padding:0;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-13o0c9t{display:inline-block;}}.css-a7htku{display:inline-block;line-height:20px;padding:0 10px;}.css-a7htku:first-child{border-left:none;}.css-a7htku.desktop{display:none;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-a7htku.smartphone{display:none;}.css-a7htku.desktop{display:inline-block;}.css-a7htku.mobileOnly{display:none;}}.css-2fg4z9{font-style:italic;}.css-r3fift{height:auto;width:100%;width:100%;vertical-align:top;}.css-1e2jphy{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;width:100%;-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;margin-bottom:0.25rem;}.css-1e2jphy > img,.css-1e2jphy a > img,.css-1e2jphy div > img{margin-right:10px;}.css-c2jxua{text-transform:uppercase;color:#333;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:500;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05em;letter-spacing:0.05em;font-size:0.8125rem;line-height:1.125rem;margin:35px 20px 3px;text-align:left;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-c2jxua{font-size:0.875rem;line-height:1.25rem;}}.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk{color:#000;border-bottom:2px solid #ccc;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk:hover,.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk:focus{color:#000;border-bottom:2px solid #000;}.css-c2jxua .css-1g7m0tk:visited{color:#000;}@media print{.css-c2jxua{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-c2jxua{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-c2jxua{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-c2jxua{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-c2jxua{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-xt80pu{width:100%;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-xt80pu{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-xt80pu{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-xt80pu{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-xt80pu{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-1u1psjv{display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-box-pack:justify;-webkit-justify-content:space-between;-ms-flex-pack:justify;justify-content:space-between;-webkit-align-items:center;-webkit-box-align:center;-ms-flex-align:center;align-items:center;margin:0;-webkit-flex-wrap:nowrap;-ms-flex-wrap:nowrap;flex-wrap:nowrap;}.css-ccw2r3{-webkit-flex-shrink:1;-ms-flex-negative:1;flex-shrink:1;padding-right:1rem;list-style:none;}.css-129k401{font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-weight:500;color:#333;margin-bottom:1rem;font-size:0.8125rem;line-height:1rem;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:0;}html.DarkTheme .css-129k401{color:#ccc;}.css-1wa6gzb{color:#999;display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;-webkit-flex-shrink:0;-ms-flex-negative:0;flex-shrink:0;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-size:17px;margin-bottom:5px;border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:20px;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media print{.css-1wa6gzb{display:none;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1wa6gzb{border-top:1px solid #ebebeb;padding-top:20px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1wa6gzb{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1wa6gzb{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1wa6gzb{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-1wa6gzb{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-1l3p632{width:100%;max-width:600px;margin:2.3125rem auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1l3p632{width:calc(100% - 40px);}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1l3p632{width:auto;max-width:600px;}}.css-1l3p632 strong{font-weight:700;}.css-1l3p632 em{font-style:italic;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1l3p632{margin:2.6875rem auto;}}.css-1l44abu{font-family:nyt-imperial,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;color:#666;margin:10px 20px 0 20px;text-align:left;}.css-1l44abu a{color:#326891;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;}.css-1l44abu a:hover,.css-1l44abu a:focus{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1l44abu{margin-left:0;margin-right:20px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1l44abu{max-width:px;}}.css-ky4dag{margin-top:1.5625rem;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag{margin-top:3.75rem;}}.css-ky4dag .e6idgb70{color:#121212;font-weight:700;line-height:0.75rem;margin-bottom:1.25rem;margin-top:0;}@media print{.css-ky4dag .e6idgb70{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-ky4dag .e1h9rw200{margin-bottom:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag .e1h9rw200{position:relative;}}.css-ky4dag .ezdmqqa0{margin-bottom:3px;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ky4dag .ezdmqqa0{margin-bottom:0;}}.css-ky4dag .e1wiw3jv0{color:#333;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag .e1wiw3jv0{text-align:left;}}.css-ky4dag .e16638kd0{display:inline-block;}.css-ky4dag .eakwutd0{margin-bottom:20px;color:#121212;}@media print{.css-ky4dag .eakwutd0{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ky4dag .eakwutd0{text-align:left;}}.css-139djpt{color:#121212;font-family:nyt-cheltenham,georgia,'times new roman',times,serif;font-weight:200;font-style:normal;font-size:2.25rem;line-height:2.5rem;margin:0 20px 20px;position:relative;width:calc(100% - 40px);max-width:600px;margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-139djpt{font-size:2.75rem;line-height:3.125rem;}}@media (min-width:1150px){.css-139djpt{font-size:2.9375rem;line-height:3.4375rem;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-139djpt{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media print{.css-139djpt{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-139djpt{margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-139djpt{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-139djpt{width:600px;max-width:600px;}}@media print{.css-139djpt{margin-left:0;margin-right:0;width:100%;max-width:100%;}}.css-1pv2nfg{margin:37px auto;width:100%;opacity:1;-webkit-transition:opacity 0.15s;transition:opacity 0.15s;-webkit-backface-visibility:hidden;backface-visibility:hidden;z-index:0;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:15px;}.css-1pv2nfg strong{font-weight:700;}.css-1pv2nfg em{font-style:italic;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{width:calc(100% - 40px);display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{width:100%;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:block;}@media print{.css-1pv2nfg.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:none;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{width:100%;max-width:600px;margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{width:calc(100% - 40px);}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{max-width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium.layoutVertical{width:420px;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:calc(100% - 40px);}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:310px;}}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:100%;max-width:1200px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:auto;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:600px;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:945px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge{width:1200px;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:720px;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg{margin:43px auto;}}@media print{.css-1pv2nfg{display:none;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-1pv2nfg{margin:15px auto 0;width:100%;}.css-1pv2nfg.sizeMedium{margin:15px auto 0;width:100%;}}.css-ref0xf{position:relative;margin:37px auto;margin-top:20px;margin-bottom:32px;margin-bottom:20px;}.css-ref0xf:hover .ewenx680{opacity:0.8;}.css-ref0xf:hover .css-t4350i{right:0;}.css-ref0xf strong{font-weight:700;}.css-ref0xf em{font-style:italic;}.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{width:calc(100% - 40px);display:-webkit-box;display:-webkit-flex;display:-ms-flexbox;display:flex;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{width:100%;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall{max-width:600px;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:block;}@media print{.css-ref0xf.sizeSmall.sizeSmallNoCaption{display:none;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium{width:100%;max-width:600px;margin-right:auto;margin-left:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium{width:calc(100% - 40px);}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium{max-width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium.layoutVertical{width:420px;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:calc(100% - 40px);}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeMedium.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:310px;}}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:100%;max-width:1200px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:auto;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:600px;}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:1024px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:945px;}}@media (min-width:1440px){.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge{width:1200px;}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical{width:720px;}.css-ref0xf.sizeLarge.layoutVertical.verticalVideo{width:600px;}}@media (min-width:600px){.css-ref0xf{margin:43px auto;}}@media print{.css-ref0xf{display:none;}}@media (min-width:740px){.css-ref0xf{margin-top:25px;}}.css-13m361n{border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer;font-family:nyt-franklin,helvetica,arial,sans-serif;-webkit-transition:ease 0.6s;transition:ease 0.6s;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;background-color:#567b95;border:1px solid #326891;color:#fff;font-size:11px;line-height:11px;font-weight:700;-webkit-letter-spacing:0.05em;-moz-letter-spacing:0.05em;-ms-letter-spacing:0.05em;letter-spacing:0.05em;padding:11px 12px 8px;text-transform:uppercase;}.Hybrid.DarkTheme .css-13m361n{color:#fff;}.css-13m361n::-moz-focus-inner{padding:0;border:0;}.css-13m361n:-moz-focusring{outline:1px dotted;}.css-13m361n:disabled,.css-13m361n.disabled{opacity:0.5;cursor:default;}@media (min-width:740px){.css-13m361n:hover{background-color:#326891;}}
</style>
<script type="text/javascript">
// 29.893kB
window.viHeadScriptSize = 29.893;
window.NYTD = {};
window.vi = window.vi || {};
window.vi.pageType = { type: '', edge: 'vi-story'};
(function () { var _f=function(i){window.vi=window.vi||{},window.vi.env=Object.freeze(i),window.hybrid=!1};;_f.apply(null, [{"JKIDD_PATH":"https://a.nytimes.com/svc/nyt/data-layer","ET2_URL":"https://a.et.nytimes.com","ALS_URL":"https://als-svc.nytimes.com","WEDDINGS_PATH":"https://content.api.nytimes.com","GDPR_PATH":"https://us-central1-nyt-dsra-prd.cloudfunctions.net/datagov-dsr-formhandler","RECAPTCHA_SITEKEY":"6LevSGcUAAAAAF-7fVZF05VTRiXvBDAY4vBSPaTF","ABRA_ET_URL":"//et.nytimes.com","NODE_ENV":"production","EXPERIMENTAL_ROUTE_PREFIX":"","ENVIRONMENT":"prd","RELEASE":"406009e4306a66f29d4a81aea1c595ab893fce5e","RELEASE_TAG":"v2449","AUTH_HOST":"https://myaccount.nytimes.com","SWG_PUBLICATION_ID":"nytimes.com","GQL_FETCH_TIMEOUT":"4000","GOOGLE_CLIENT_ID":"1005640118348-amh5tgkq641oru4fbhr3psm3gt2tcc94.apps.googleusercontent.com","STORY_SURROGATE_CONTROL":"max-age=300, stale-if-error=259200, stale-while-revalidate=259200"}]); })();;(function () { var _f=function(){var e=window;e.initWebview=function(e){var i=document.documentElement;if(e.OS){var t=e.OS.toUpperCase();i.classList.add(t)}e.BaseFontSize&&(i.dataset.baseFontSize=e.BaseFontSize)};var i=e.navigator.userAgent.toLowerCase();/iphone|ipod|ipad/.test(i)||void 0===e.config||e.initWebview(e.config)};;_f.apply(null, []); })();;
!function(c,t){var s,p,d,u,g,l=[],
_="object"==typeof c.navigator&&"string"==typeof c.navigator.userAgent&&/iP(ad|hone|od)/.test(
c.navigator.userAgent),f="object"==typeof c.navigator&&c.navigator.sendBeacon,
y=f?_?"xhr_ios":"beacon":"xhr";function v(){var t,e,n=c.crypto||c.msCrypto;if(n)e=n.getRandomValues(
new Uint8Array(18));else for(e=[];e.length<18;)e.push(256*Math.random()^255&(t=t||+new Date)),
t=Math.floor(t/256);return btoa(String.fromCharCode.apply(String,e)).replace(/\+/g,"-").replace(
/\//g,"_")}if(c.nyt_et)try{console.warn("et2 snippet should only load once per page")}catch(t
){}else c.nyt_et=function(){var t,e,n,i,r={pv_id:"",ctx_id:"",intra:!1},o=arguments;function a(r){
l.length&&(function(t,e,n){if("beacon"===y||f&&r)return c.navigator.sendBeacon(t,e)
;var i="undefined"!=typeof XMLHttpRequest?new XMLHttpRequest:new ActiveXObject("Microsoft.XMLHTTP")
;i.open("POST",t),i.withCredentials=!0,i.setRequestHeader("Accept","*/*"),
"string"==typeof e?i.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","text/plain;charset=UTF-8"
):"[object Blob]"==={}.toString.call(e)&&e.type&&i.setRequestHeader("Content-Type",e.type);try{
i.send(e)}catch(t){}}(s+"track",JSON.stringify(l)),l.length=0,clearTimeout(g),g=null)}if(
"string"==typeof o[0]&&/init/.test(o[0])&&(r=function(t,e){var n="",i="",r=!1;if(
"string"==typeof t&&"init"==t&&"object"==typeof e&&("boolean"==typeof e.intranet&&1==e.intranet&&(
r="true"),"string"==typeof e.pv_id_override&&"string"==typeof e.ctx_id_override))if(
24<=e.pv_id_override.length&&24<=e.ctx_id_override.length)n=e.pv_id_override,
i=e.ctx_id_override;else try{console.warn("override id(s) must be >= 24 chars long")}catch(t){}
return{pv_id:n,ctx_id:i,intra:r}}(o[0],o[3]),d=r.pv_id||v(),"init"==o[0]&&!p)){if(p=r.ctx_id||v(),
"string"!=typeof o[1]||!/^http/.test(o[1]))throw new Error("init must include an et host url");if(
s=String(o[1]).replace(/([^\/])$/,"$1/"),"string"!=typeof o[2])throw new Error(
"init must include a source app name");u=o[2]}o[o.length-1]&&"object"==typeof o[o.length-1]&&(
t=o[o.length-1]),t||/init/.test(o[0])?t&&!t.subject&&console.warn(
"event data {} must include a subject"):console.warn(
"when invoked without 'init' or 'pageinit', nyt_et() must include a event data"),s&&t&&t.subject&&(
e=t.subject,delete t.subject,i="page_exit"==e||"ob_click"==(t.eventData||{}).type,
n="page"==e||"page_soft"==e?d:v(),l.push({context_id:p,pageview_id:d,event_id:n,client_lib:"v1.1.4",
sourceApp:u,intranet:r.intra?1:void 0,subject:e,how:i&&_&&f?"beacon_ios":y,client_ts:+new Date,
data:JSON.parse(JSON.stringify(t))}),"send"==o[0]||n==d||i?a(i):g||(g=setTimeout(a,5500)))},
c.nyt_et.get_pageview_id=function(){return d},c.nyt_et.get_context_id=function(){return p},
c.nyt_et.get_host=function(){return s}}(window);
;
(function initWebUnifiedTracking(root) {
var _root;
root = root || (typeof window !== 'undefined' ? window : undefined);
var UnifiedTracking = ((_root = root) === null || _root === void 0 ? void 0 : _root.UnifiedTracking) || {};
UnifiedTracking.context = 'web';
if (!root) {
return UnifiedTracking;
}
root.UnifiedTracking = UnifiedTracking;
UnifiedTracking.sendAnalytic = function sendAnalytic(eventName, dataBlob) {
root.dataLayer = root.dataLayer || [];
if (Array.isArray(root.dataLayer)) {
// Don't use a spread operator here for babel reasons
dataBlob.event = dataBlob.event || eventName;
root.dataLayer.push(dataBlob);
}
return Promise.resolve({
success: true
});
};
return UnifiedTracking;
})(window);
;!function(r){var n,t;r=r||self,n=r.Abra,(t=r.Abra=function(){"use strict";var r=Array.isArray,n=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1];if(null==u||""===u)return n;for(var i=String(u).split("."),a=0;a<i.length&&(n=n[i[a]]);a++);return null==n&&(n=o),null!=n?n:null},t=function(r,n,t){return r(t,n).reduce((function(r,n){return parseFloat(r)+parseFloat(n)}),0)},e=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]/e[1]},u=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]%e[1]},o=function(r,n,t){return r(t,n).reduce((function(r,n){return parseFloat(r)*parseFloat(n)}),1)},i=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1];return void 0===o?-u:u-o};function a(n){return!(r(n)&&0===n.length||!n)}var f=function(r,n,t){for(var e,u=0;u<t.length;u++)if(!a(e=r(t[u],n)))return e;return e},c=function(r,n,t){var e;for(e=0;e<t.length-1;e+=2)if(a(r(t[e],n)))return r(t[e+1],n);return t.length===e+1?r(t[e],n):null},l=function(r,n,t){return!a(r(t,n)[0])},v=function(r,n,t){for(var e,u=0;u<t.length;u++)if(a(e=r(t[u],n)))return e;return e},d=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]===e[1]},s=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]!==e[1]},h=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1];return!(!o||void 0===o.indexOf)&&-1!==o.indexOf(u)},g=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]>e[1]},p=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n);return e[0]>=e[1]},b=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1],i=e[2];return void 0===i?u<o:u<o&&o<i},w=function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n),u=e[0],o=e[1],i=e[2];return void 0===i?u<=o:u<=o&&o<=i},y=function(r,n,t){var e=t[0],u=t[1],o=t.slice(2),i=r(e,n);if(!i)return null;if(0===o.length)return null;if(1===o.length)return r(o[0],n);if(4294967295===o[0])return r(o[1],n);for(var a=function(r){var n,t,e,u,o,i=[],a=[t=1732584193,e=4023233417,~t,~e,3285377520],f=[],c=unescape(encodeURI(r))+"\x80",l=c.length;for(f[r=--l/4+2|15]=8*l;~l;)f[l>>2]|=c.charCodeAt(l)<<8*~l--;for(n=l=0;n<r;n+=16){for(t=a;l<80;t=[t[4]+(i[l]=l<16?~~f[n+l]:2*c|c<0)+1518500249+[e&u|~e&o,c=341275144+(e^u^o),882459459+(e&u|e&o|u&o),c+1535694389][l++/5>>2]+((c=t[0])<<5|c>>>27),c,e<<30|e>>>2,u,o])c=i[l-3]^i[l-8]^i[l-14]^i[l-16],e=t[1],u=t[2],o=t[3];for(l=5;l;)a[--l]+=t[l]}return a[0]>>>0}(i+" "+r(u,n));o.length>1;){var f=o.splice(0,2),c=f[0],l=f[1];if(a<=r(c,n))return r(l,n)}return 0===o.length?null:r(o[0],n)},k=function(r,n,t){var e=t[0],u=t[1],o=r(e,n);return null==o?null:new RegExp(u).test(o)};return function(a,m,O,A){void 0===a&&(a={}),void 0===m&&(m={}),void 0===O&&(O={}),void 0===A&&(A=!1);var j=function(){var r={},n=function(n){if(n)for(var t,e=decodeURIComponent(n[1]),u=/(?:^|,)([^,=]+)=([^,]*)/g;t=u.exec(e);){var o=t,i=o[1],a=o[2];r[i]=a||null}};n(document.cookie.match(/(?:^|;) *abra-overrides=([^;]+)/)),n(window.location.search.match(/(?:\?|&)abra-overrides=([^&]+)/));var t=/(?:^|;) *abra-nuke=true(?:;|$)/.test(document.cookie)||/(?:\?|&)abra-nuke=true(?:&|$)/.test(window.location.search);return[r,t]}(),x=j[0],E=j[1];Object.keys(O).forEach((function(r){x[r]=O[r]}));var F,C=A||E,R=(F={var:n,if:c,"===":d,"!==":s,and:f,or:v,"!":l,">":g,">=":p,"<":b,"<=":w,"+":t,"-":i,"*":o,"/":e,"%":u,in:h,abtest_partition:y,regex_match:k,ref:function(r,n,t){var e=r(t,n)[0];return U(e)}},function n(t,e){if(e||(e={}),r(t))return t.map((function(r){return n(r,e)}));if(!function(n){return"object"==typeof n&&null!==n&&!r(n)&&1===Object.keys(n).length}(t))return t;var u=function(r){return Object.keys(r)[0]}(t),o=t[u];r(o)||(o=[o]);var i=F[u];if(!i)throw new Error("Unrecognized operation "+u);return i(n,e,o)}),U=function(r){if(!r)return null;var n=x[r];if(void 0===n){if(!C){if(Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(x,r))throw new Error("circular logic");x[r]=void 0,n=R(a[r],m)}void 0===n&&(n=null),x[r]=n}return n};return U}}()).noConflict=function(){return r.Abra=n,t}}(this);
;(function () { var NYTD="undefined"!=typeof window&&window.NYTD?window.NYTD:{};function setupTimeZone(){var e='[data-timezone][data-timezone~="'+(new Date).getHours()+'"] { display: block }',t=document.createElement("style");t.innerHTML=e,document.head.appendChild(t)}function getUserAgent(){return window.navigator.userAgent||window.navigator.vendor||window.opera||""}function userAgentIndicatesiOS(e){return-1!==e.indexOf("nytios")}function userAgentIndicatesAndroid(e){return-1!==e.indexOf("nyt_android")}function addNYTAppClass(){var e=getUserAgent(),t=userAgentIndicatesAndroid(e),n=userAgentIndicatesiOS(e);(t||n)&&(document.documentElement.classList.add("NYTApp"),document.documentElement.classList.add(n?"IOS":"ANDROID"))}function addNYTPageTypeClass(){var e=window.vi.pageType.edge;e&&document.documentElement.classList.add("nytapp-"+e)}function setupPageViewId(){NYTD.PageViewId={},NYTD.PageViewId.update=function(){return"undefined"!=typeof nyt_et&&"function"==typeof window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id?(window.nyt_et("pageinit"),NYTD.PageViewId.current=window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id()):NYTD.PageViewId.current="xxxxxxxx-xxxx-4xxx-yxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxx".replace(/[xy]/g,function(e){var t=16*Math.random()|0;return("x"===e?t:3&t|8).toString(16)}),NYTD.PageViewId.current}}var _f=function(e){e=e||{};try{document.domain="nytimes.com"}catch(e){}window.swgUserInfoXhrObject=new XMLHttpRequest,setupPageViewId(),setupTimeZone(),addNYTAppClass(),addNYTPageTypeClass(),window.nyt_et&&"function"==typeof window.nyt_et&&window.nyt_et("init",vi.env.ET2_URL,"nyt-vi",{subject:"page",canonicalUrl:(document.querySelector("link[rel=canonical]")||{}).href,articleId:(document.querySelector("meta[name=articleid]")||{}).content,nyt_uri:(document.querySelector("meta[name=nyt_uri]")||{}).content,pubpEventId:(document.querySelector("meta[name=pubp_event_id]")||{}).content,url:location.href,referrer:document.referrer||void 0,client_tz_offset:(new Date).getTimezoneOffset(),fastly_headers:e.fastlyHeaders||{}}),"undefined"!=typeof nyt_et&&"function"==typeof window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id?NYTD.PageViewId.current=window.nyt_et.get_pageview_id():NYTD.PageViewId.update()};;_f.apply(null, [{"gqlUrlClient":"https://samizdat-graphql.nytimes.com/graphql/v2","gqlRequestHeaders":{"nyt-app-type":"project-vi","nyt-app-version":"0.0.5","nyt-token":"MIIBIjANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAAOCAQ8AMIIBCgKCAQEAs+/oUCTBmD/cLdmcecrnBMHiU/pxQCn2DDyaPKUOXxi4p0uUSZQzsuq1pJ1m5z1i0YGPd1U1OeGHAChWtqoxC7bFMCXcwnE1oyui9G1uobgpm1GdhtwkR7ta7akVTcsF8zxiXx7DNXIPd2nIJFH83rmkZueKrC4JVaNzjvD+Z03piLn5bHWU6+w+rA+kyJtGgZNTXKyPh6EC6o5N+rknNMG5+CdTq35p8f99WjFawSvYgP9V64kgckbTbtdJ6YhVP58TnuYgr12urtwnIqWP9KSJ1e5vmgf3tunMqWNm6+AnsqNj8mCLdCuc5cEB74CwUeQcP2HQQmbCddBy2y0mEwIDAQAB"},"gqlFetchTimeout":4000,"disablePersistedQueries":false,"fastlyHeaders":{},"initialDeviceType":"smartphone","fastlyAbraConfig":{".ver":"8964.000","HOME_chartbeat":"0_Control","INT_cwv_v2_control_split":"","INT_cwv_dfp_deferAds_0322":"","STORY_cwv_abra_alloc_0222":"","VIDEO_cwv_vhs_defer_1121":"","Wirecutter_Growth_DEMO":"2_grow_variant"},"internalPreviewConfig":{},"serviceWorkerFile":"service-worker-test-1648241273083.js"}]); })();;(function () { var NYTD="undefined"!=typeof window&&window.NYTD?window.NYTD:{};var _f=function(a){window.Abra&&"function"==typeof window.Abra&&(NYTD.Abra=function(t){var r=(t.document.cookie.match(/(?:^|;) *nyt-a=([^;]*)/)||[])[1],n=[];t.dataLayer=t.dataLayer||[],l.config=a.abraConfig||{},l.reportedAllocations={},l.reportedExposures={};var e=a.shouldBypassAbraContextAlloc,o=(a.abraURL||"").match(/current[/]([a-zA-Z-]+).json/i);l.integration=o&&o.length>1?o[1]:"";try{l.version=t.Abra(l.config)(".ver")}catch(a){l.version=0}var i=l.config,c={agent_id:r},s=t.Abra(i,c);function l(a){return l.getAbraSync(a).variant}return l.getAbraSync=function(a){var t=l.reportedAllocations[a];if(void 0!==t)return{variant:t,allocated:!0};var r=null,n=!1;try{r=s(a),n=!0}catch(a){}return{variant:r,allocated:n}},l.reportExposure=function(a){var r=l.getAbraSync(a).variant;void 0!==l.reportedExposures[a]&&r===l.reportedExposures[a]||(l.reportedExposures[a]=r,t.dataLayer.push({event:"ab-expose",abtest:{test:a,variant:r||"0",config_ver:l.version,integration:l.integration}}))},l.alloc=function(){Object.keys(l.config).filter(function(a){return!a.includes(".")}).forEach(function(a){var t=l.getAbraSync(a);t.allocated&&(l.reportedAllocations[a]=t.variant,n.push({test:a,variant:t.variant}))}),t.dataLayer.push({event:"ab-alloc",abtest:{batch:n}}),e&&(l.allAllocations=n)},l.alloc(),l}(this))};;_f.apply(null, [{"abraConfig":{".ver":8979,"UXF_cookingstory_0521":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"UXF_cookingstory_0521",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_cookpromo"]},"STYLN_remove_relatedlinks":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_remove_relatedlinks",4252017622,"0_control_STYLN_remove_relatedlinks",4294967295,"1_remove_relatedlinks"]},"STYLN_recirc_sofs":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"STYLN_recirc_sofs",3006477106,"0_control",3435973836,"1_sofs",3865470565,"2_editorial",4294967295,"3_links"]}]},"STYLN_pharmacy_components":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_pharmacy_components",4080218930,"show",4123168603,"hide",4294967295,"show"]},"STYLN_more_in_storylines_recirc":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_more_in_storylines_recirc",42949672,"0_control",85899345,"1_variant"]},"STYLN_live_updates":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_updates",214748364,"0_control",429496729,"2_live_updates",4294967295,"1_live_updates"]},"STYLN_live_transition_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_transition_alerts",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_polling_push":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_polling_push",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_olympics_push":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_olympics_push",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_noreaster_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_noreaster_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_live_newupdates":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_newupdates",214748364,"control",4294967295,"variant"]},"STYLN_live_messaging":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_messaging",214748364,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_signup"]},"STYLN_live_derek_chauvin_trial_alerts":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},"show"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_derek_chauvin_trial_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]}]},"STYLN_live_chat":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_chat",21474835,"1_use_sse",408021892,"0_Control",429496729,"1_use_sse"]},"STYLN_live_barrett_hearings_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_live_barrett_hearings_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",2147483647,"1_show",2362232012,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_liveblog_email":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_liveblog_email",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_signup"]},"STYLN_lb_pinned_video":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_lb_pinned_video",4294967295,"1_pin"]},"STYLN_lb_newposts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_lb_newposts",4080218930,"0_control",4294967295,"1_lb_newposts"]},"STYLN_elevate_series_collections":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_elevate_series_collections",4294967295,"1_elevate_series_collections"]},"STYLN_election_2020_alerts":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_election_2020_alerts",214748364,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]},"STYLN_daily_question_block":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STYLN_daily_question_block",644245093,"0_control",1288490188,"1_variant"]},"styln-trending-primary-asset":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-trending-primary-asset",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]},"styln-top-links2":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},["hide"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-top-links2",2147483647,"0_hide",4294967295,"1_show"]}]},"styln-primary-assets-block":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-primary-assets-block",1073741823,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]},"styln-music-guide":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},"show"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-music-guide",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]}]},"styln-menu-homepage-link":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-menu-homepage-link",4294967295,"1_Show"]},"styln-menu-color":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-menu-color",2147483647,"0_Control",2576980377,"1_BlueLink",4294967295,"0_Control"]},"styln-amy-chua":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"ref":"STYLN_pharmacy_components"},"show"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"styln-amy-chua",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_Show"]}]},"STORY_topical_recirc":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"STORY_topical_recirc",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_variant"]},"SJ_welcome_subscriber_app_copy_test_0122":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SJ_welcome_subscriber_app_copy_test_0122",858993458,"0_control",1717986917,"1_visual_update",2576980377,"2_emotional",3435973836,"3_content",4294967295,"4_functional"]}]},"SJ_todayspaper_poc":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"SJ_todayspaper_poc",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_variant"]},"SJ_newsletter_list_01_0222":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SJ_newsletter_list_01_0222",1073741823,"0_control",2147483647,"1_backtosite",3221225471,"2_inboxread",4294967295,"3_variety"]},"SEARCH_FACET_DROPDOWN":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"SEARCH_FACET_DROPDOWN",2147483647,"0_FACET_MULTI_SELECT",4294967295,"1_DYNAMIC_FACET_SELECT"]},"SA_Referral_iframe_0520":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"SA_Referral_iframe_0520",4294967295,"1_useiframe"]},"SA_live_onboarding_01_1221":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_live_onboarding_01_1221",858993458,"0_control",1717986917,"1_noimage_teach",2576980377,"2_image_teach",3435973836,"3_noimage_recognize",4294967295,"4_image_recognize"]},"SA_get_started_now_01_0921":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_get_started_now_01_0921",858993458,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]},"SA_get_started_later_01_0621":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_get_started_later_01_0621",2147483647,"0_control",3435973836,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]},"SA_breadth_step_01_0421":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_breadth_step_01_0421",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]},"SA_app_step_01_0521":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"SA_app_step_01_0521",4294967295,"0_control"]},"ON_User_State_API":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"ON_User_State_API",4294967295,"1_user_state"]},"ON_testIgnoreMe_0902":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["sub"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"ON_testIgnoreMe_0902",2147483647,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_variant"]}]},"ON_regibundle_throttle_0921":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"ON_regibundle_throttle_0921",429496729,"0_control",4294967295,"1_bau"]},"ON_MAPS_audience_split":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"ON_MAPS_audience_split",2147483647,"0_onboarding",4294967295,"1_maps"]},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_regi_final":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["sub"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_regi_final",214748364,"0_control",4294967295,"0_control"]}]},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_dummy":{"if":[{"and":[{"!":{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["sub"]]}}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"ON_app_dl_mweb_hp_dummy",1073741823,"0_control",2147483647,"1_dock_std",3221225471,"2_dock_exp",4294967295,"3_custom_dock"]}]},"MKT_welcome_ad_stp_1120":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_welcome_ad_stp_1120",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_welcome_stp"]},"MKT_segops_regi_bundle_login_test":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_segops_regi_bundle_login_test",4294967295,"1_login"]},"MKT_not_ready_to_sub_survey":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_not_ready_to_sub_survey",4123168603,"0_control",4294967295,"1_survey"]},"MKT_dfp_hd_paywall_zip":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_dfp_hd_paywall_zip",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_zip"]},"MKT_CKGiftLPTest_creativeredesign":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_CKGiftLPTest_creativeredesign",1431942095,"0_control",2863454695,"1_ck_gift_shortlp",4294967295,"2_ck_gift_longlp"]},"MKT_anon_story_page_offer":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MKT_anon_story_page_offer",3650722201,"2_offer"]},"MAPS_subonly_cards_gs_092021":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MAPS_subonly_cards_gs_092021",1073741823,"2_subandfree",4294967295,"2_subandfree"]}]},"MAPS_foryou_optin_0421":{"if":[{"and":[{"in":[{"var":"user_type"},["regi"]]},{"===":[{"ref":"ON_MAPS_audience_split"},"1_maps"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"MAPS_foryou_optin_0421",1431942095,"0_control",2863454695,"1_interests",4294967295,"2_auto_optin"]}]},"InvolChurn_CopyUpdate":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"InvolChurn_CopyUpdate",2147483647,"0_control",4294967295,"1_concisemessage"]},"DFP_Prebid_Priority_0322":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_Prebid_Priority_0322"]},"dfp_messaging_flexframe_ctr":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"dfp_messaging_flexframe_ctr",322122546,"2_noheadnosummary",644245093,"1_msgInv_noCTA",4294967295,"0_control"]},"DFP_Live_0322":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_Live_0322"]},"DFP_EngMetrics":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_EngMetrics",42949672,"0_control",85899345,"1_hover"]},"dfp_disp_incr":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"dfp_disp_incr",429496729,"0_control",4294967295,"1_test"]},"DFP_blockDetect_0221":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_blockDetect_0221",1073741823,"1_network_detection",4294967295,null]},"DFP_amzn":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_amzn",42949672,"0_control",429642757,"0_control",472540891,"1_amzn_fast_fetch",515490564,"2_adslot_priority",901994671,"2_adslot_priority",944892804,"3_no_mnet"]},"DFP_als_home":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_als_home",4294967295,"1_als"]},"DFP_als":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DFP_als",4294967295,"1_als"]},"dfp_adslot4v2":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"dfp_adslot4v2",4294967295,"1_external"]},"DATAGOV_banner_202110":{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"agent_id"},"DATAGOV_banner_202110",3435973836,"0_Control",4294967295,"1_RejectAll"]},"APP_2021H1_SLS":{"if":[{"and":[{"===":[{"var":"user_type"},"sub"]}]},{"abtest_partition":[{"var":"regi_id"},"APP_2021H1_SLS",1159641169,"1_share",1932735282,"1_share",4294967295,"1_share"]}]}},"abraURL":"https://a1.nyt.com/abra-config/current/vi-prd.json","shouldBypassAbraContextAlloc":false}]); })();;(function () { var _f=function(e){var r=function(){var r=e.url;try{r+=window.location.search.slice(1).split("&").reduce(function(e,r){return"ip-override"===r.split("=")[0]?"?"+r:e},"")}catch(e){console.warn(e)}var n=new XMLHttpRequest;for(var t in n.withCredentials=!0,n.open("POST",r,!0),n.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","application/json"),e.headers)n.setRequestHeader(t,e.headers[t]);return n.send(e.body),n};window.userXhrObject=r(),window.userXhrRefresh=function(){return window.userXhrObject=r(),window.userXhrObject}};;_f.apply(null, [{"url":"https://samizdat-graphql.nytimes.com/graphql/v2","body":"{\"operationName\":\"UserQuery\",\"variables\":{},\"query\":\" query UserQuery { user { __typename profile { displayName email } userInfo { regiId entitlements demographics { emailSubscriptions wat } } subscriptionDetails { bundleType graceStartDate graceEndDate isFreeTrial hasQueuedSub startDate endDate status hasActiveEntitlements entitlements billingSource promotionTierType subscriptionName } } } \"}","headers":{"nyt-app-type":"project-vi","nyt-app-version":"0.0.5","nyt-token":"MIIBIjANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAAOCAQ8AMIIBCgKCAQEAs+/oUCTBmD/cLdmcecrnBMHiU/pxQCn2DDyaPKUOXxi4p0uUSZQzsuq1pJ1m5z1i0YGPd1U1OeGHAChWtqoxC7bFMCXcwnE1oyui9G1uobgpm1GdhtwkR7ta7akVTcsF8zxiXx7DNXIPd2nIJFH83rmkZueKrC4JVaNzjvD+Z03piLn5bHWU6+w+rA+kyJtGgZNTXKyPh6EC6o5N+rknNMG5+CdTq35p8f99WjFawSvYgP9V64kgckbTbtdJ6YhVP58TnuYgr12urtwnIqWP9KSJ1e5vmgf3tunMqWNm6+AnsqNj8mCLdCuc5cEB74CwUeQcP2HQQmbCddBy2y0mEwIDAQAB"}}]); })();;(function () { var registry=window._interactiveRegistry={};function getId(t){for(;(t=t.parentElement)&&!t.matches("[data-sourceid].interactive-body"););return t?t.getAttribute("data-sourceid"):null}window.registerInteractive=function(t){var e={_subs:{cleanup:[],remount:[]},id:t,on:function(t,r){return this._subs[t].push(r),e}};registry[t]=e},window.getInteractiveBridge=function(t){var e="string"==typeof t?t:getId(t);return registry[e]}; })();;(function () { function swgDataLayer(e){return!!window.dataLayer&&((window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push({event:"impression",module:e}),!0)}function checkSwgOptOut(){if(!window.localStorage)return!1;var e=window.localStorage.getItem("nyt-swgOptOut");if(!e)return!1;var t=parseInt(e,10);return((new Date).getTime()-t)/864e5<1||(window.localStorage.removeItem("nyt-swgOptOut"),!1)}function swgDeferredAccount(e,t){return e.completeDeferredAccountCreation({entitlements:t,consent:!1}).then(function(e){var t=vi.env.AUTH_HOST+"/svc/account/auth/v1/swg-dal-web",n=e.purchaseData.raw.data?e.purchaseData.raw.data:e.purchaseData.raw,o=JSON.parse(n),a={package_name:o.packageName,product_id:o.productId,purchase_token:o.purchaseToken,google_id_token:e.userData.idToken,google_user_email:e.userData.email,google_user_id:e.userData.id,google_user_name:e.userData.name},r=new XMLHttpRequest;r.withCredentials=!0,r.open("POST",t,!0),r.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","application/json"),r.send(JSON.stringify(a)),r.onload=function(){200===r.status?(swgDataLayer({name:"swg",context:"Deferred",label:"Seamless Signin",region:"swg-modal"}),e.complete().then(function(){window.location.reload(!0)})):(e.complete(),window.location=encodeURI(vi.env.AUTH_HOST+"/get-started/swg-link?redirect="+encodeURIComponent(window.location.href)))}}).catch(function(){return!!window.localStorage&&(!window.localStorage.getItem("nyt-swgOptOut")&&(window.localStorage.setItem("nyt-swgOptOut",(new Date).getTime()),!0))}),!0}function hasLogoutCookie(){var e=document.cookie.match("(^|;) ?nyt-auth-action=([^;]*)(;|$)")||null;return e&&"logout"===e[2]}function loginWithGoogle(){return"undefined"!=typeof window&&(-1===document.cookie.indexOf("NYT-S")&&(!0!==checkSwgOptOut()&&(!!window.SWG&&((window.SWG=window.SWG||[]).push(function(e){return e.init(vi.env.SWG_PUBLICATION_ID),!0!==hasLogoutCookie()&&(e.getEntitlements().then(function(t){if(void 0===t||!t.raw)return!1;window.SwGEntitlement=!0;var n={entitlements_token:t.raw};return window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.withCredentials=!0,window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.open("POST",vi.env.AUTH_HOST+"/svc/account/auth/v1/login-swg-web",!0),window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.setRequestHeader("Content-Type","application/json"),window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.send(JSON.stringify(n)),window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.onload=function(){switch(window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.status){case 200:return swgDataLayer({name:"swg",context:"Seamless",label:"Seamless Signin",region:"login"}),window.location.reload(!0),!0;case 412:return swgDeferredAccount(e,t);default:return!1}},t}).catch(function(){return!1}),!0)}),!0))))}var _f=function(){if(window.swgUserInfoXhrObject.checkSwgResponse=!1,window.SwGEntitlement=!1,-1===document.cookie.indexOf("NYT-S")){var e=document.createElement("script");e.src="https://news.google.com/swg/js/v1/swg.js",e.setAttribute("subscriptions-control","manual"),e.setAttribute("async",!0),e.onload=function(){loginWithGoogle()},document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0].appendChild(e)}};;_f.apply(null, [{"gqlUrlClient":"https://samizdat-graphql.nytimes.com/graphql/v2","gqlRequestHeaders":{"nyt-app-type":"project-vi","nyt-app-version":"0.0.5","nyt-token":"MIIBIjANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAAOCAQ8AMIIBCgKCAQEAs+/oUCTBmD/cLdmcecrnBMHiU/pxQCn2DDyaPKUOXxi4p0uUSZQzsuq1pJ1m5z1i0YGPd1U1OeGHAChWtqoxC7bFMCXcwnE1oyui9G1uobgpm1GdhtwkR7ta7akVTcsF8zxiXx7DNXIPd2nIJFH83rmkZueKrC4JVaNzjvD+Z03piLn5bHWU6+w+rA+kyJtGgZNTXKyPh6EC6o5N+rknNMG5+CdTq35p8f99WjFawSvYgP9V64kgckbTbtdJ6YhVP58TnuYgr12urtwnIqWP9KSJ1e5vmgf3tunMqWNm6+AnsqNj8mCLdCuc5cEB74CwUeQcP2HQQmbCddBy2y0mEwIDAQAB"},"gqlFetchTimeout":4000,"disablePersistedQueries":false,"fastlyHeaders":{},"initialDeviceType":"smartphone","fastlyAbraConfig":{".ver":"8964.000","HOME_chartbeat":"0_Control","INT_cwv_v2_control_split":"","INT_cwv_dfp_deferAds_0322":"","STORY_cwv_abra_alloc_0222":"","VIDEO_cwv_vhs_defer_1121":"","Wirecutter_Growth_DEMO":"2_grow_variant"},"internalPreviewConfig":{},"serviceWorkerFile":"service-worker-test-1648241273083.js"}]); })();;(function () { var _f=function(){"function"!=typeof window.onInitNativeAds&&(window.onInitNativeAds=function(){})};;_f.apply(null, []); })();
</script>
<script>
!function(e){function t(t){for(var n,a,i=t[0],l=t[1],f=t[2],c=0,s=[];c<i.length;c++)a=i[c],Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(o,a)&&o[a]&&s.push(o[a][0]),o[a]=0;for(n in l)Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(l,n)&&(e[n]=l[n]);for(p&&p(t);s.length;)s.shift()();return u.push.apply(u,f||[]),r()}function r(){for(var e,t=0;t<u.length;t++){for(var r=u[t],n=!0,i=1;i<r.length;i++){var l=r[i];0!==o[l]&&(n=!1)}n&&(u.splice(t--,1),e=a(a.s=r[0]))}return e}var n={},o={78:0},u=[];function a(t){if(n[t])return n[t].exports;var r=n[t]={i:t,l:!1,exports:{}};return e[t].call(r.exports,r,r.exports,a),r.l=!0,r.exports}a.m=e,a.c=n,a.d=function(e,t,r){a.o(e,t)||Object.defineProperty(e,t,{enumerable:!0,get:r})},a.r=function(e){"undefined"!=typeof Symbol&&Symbol.toStringTag&&Object.defineProperty(e,Symbol.toStringTag,{value:"Module"}),Object.defineProperty(e,"__esModule",{value:!0})},a.t=function(e,t){if(1&t&&(e=a(e)),8&t)return e;if(4&t&&"object"==typeof e&&e&&e.__esModule)return e;var r=Object.create(null);if(a.r(r),Object.defineProperty(r,"default",{enumerable:!0,value:e}),2&t&&"string"!=typeof e)for(var n in e)a.d(r,n,function(t){return e[t]}.bind(null,n));return r},a.n=function(e){var t=e&&e.__esModule?function(){return e.default}:function(){return e};return a.d(t,"a",t),t},a.o=function(e,t){return Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(e,t)},a.p="/vi-assets/static-assets/";var i=window.webpackJsonp=window.webpackJsonp||[],l=i.push.bind(i);i.push=t,i=i.slice();for(var f=0;f<i.length;f++)t(i[f]);var p=l;r()}([]);
//# sourceMappingURL=runtime~adslot-5dd6d16a504aff085540.js.map
</script>
<script async="" src="/vi-assets/static-assets/adslot-8db91333d85a08f170f7.js">
</script>
<script data-rh="true">
(function () { var _f=function(){const n="1_block";window.adClientUtils={hasActiveToggle:function(o){return i=o,(window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra?window.NYTD.Abra(i):"")!==n;var i}}};;_f.apply(null, []); })();
(function () { var _f=function(n){try{if(!(s=n,!!(window&&window.adClientUtils&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle)&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle(s)))return;if(void 0===e)var e=function(n){var e=document.cookie.match(new RegExp(n+"=([^;]+)"));if(e)return e[1]};!function(){var n=e("nyt-purr");if(!n||"s"!==n.substring(10,11)){var t=document.createElement("script");t.async="async",t.src="//securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/tag/js/gpt.js",document.head.appendChild(t)}}();var t=e("nyt-purr"),i=i||{};i.cmd=i.cmd||[],t&&"n"===t.substring(10,11)&&i.cmd.push(function(){i.pubads().setRequestNonPersonalizedAds(1)})}catch(n){console.log(n)}var s};;_f.apply(null, ["dfp_story_toggle"]); })();
(function () { var _f=function(){var t,e,o=50,n=50;function i(t){if(!document.getElementById("3pCheckIframeId")){if(t||(t=1),!document.body){if(t>o)return;return t+=1,setTimeout(i.bind(null,t),n)}var e,a,r;e="https://static01.nyt.com/ads/tpc-check.html",a=document.body,(r=document.createElement("iframe")).src=e,r.id="3pCheckIframeId",r.style="display:none;",r.height=0,r.width=0,a.insertBefore(r,a.firstChild)}}function a(t){if("https://static01.nyt.com"===t.origin)try{"3PCookieSupported"===t.data&&googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","true")}),"3PCookieNotSupported"===t.data&&googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","false")})}catch(t){}}function r(){if(function(){if(Object.prototype.toString.call(window.HTMLElement).indexOf("Constructor")>0)return!0;if("[object SafariRemoteNotification]"===(!window.safari||safari.pushNotification).toString())return!0;try{return window.localStorage&&/Safari/.test(window.navigator.userAgent)}catch(t){return!1}}()){try{window.openDatabase(null,null,null,null)}catch(e){return t(),!0}try{localStorage.length?e():(localStorage.x=1,localStorage.removeItem("x"),e())}catch(o){navigator.cookieEnabled?t():e()}return!0}}!function(){try{googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","unknown")})}catch(t){}}(),t=function(){try{googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("cookie","private")})}catch(t){}}||function(){},e=function(){window.addEventListener("message",a,!1),i(0)}||function(){},function(){if(window.webkitRequestFileSystem)return window.webkitRequestFileSystem(window.TEMPORARY,1,e,t),!0}()||r()||function(){if(!window.indexedDB&&(window.PointerEvent||window.MSPointerEvent))return t(),!0}()||e()};;_f.apply(null, ["dfp_story_toggle"]); })();
</script>
<script data-rh="true" id="als-svc">
(function () { var _f=function(e,t,a){var n;if(!(n=a,!!(window&&window.adClientUtils&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle)&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle(n)))return;!function(e){window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra&&window.NYTD.Abra.reportExposure(e)}(a);let i=()=>{var e=new Date,t=e.getFullYear();return e.getMonth()<9&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getMonth()+1,e.getDate()<10&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getDate(),e.getHours()<10&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getHours(),e.getMinutes()<10&&(t+="0"),t+=e.getMinutes(),e.getSeconds()<10&&(t+="0"),t+e.getSeconds()};window.googletag=window.googletag||{},googletag.cmd=googletag.cmd||[];let o=new URLSearchParams(location.search).get("alice_rules_test");var l,s=new XMLHttpRequest,r=window.vi.env.ALS_URL,d=document.querySelector('[name="nyt_uri"]');if(t)l="uri="+(g=t);else if("/"===location.pathname){var g=encodeURIComponent("https://www.nytimes.com/pages/index.html");l="uri="+g}else if(void 0===d||""===d||null===d){var c=e||location.protocol+"//"+location.hostname+location.pathname;l="url="+encodeURIComponent(c)}else{g=encodeURIComponent(d.content);l="uri="+g}var u=document.querySelector('[name="template"]'),w=document.querySelector('[name="prop"]'),m=document.querySelector('[name="plat"]'),p=null==u||null==u.content?"":u.content,_=null==w||null==w.content?"nyt":w.content,b=null==m||null==m.content?"web":m.content;window.innerWidth<740&&(_="mnyt",b="mweb");var v=window.localStorage.getItem("als_test_clientside"),f=null;window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=v&&0!==v.length?v:"empty_empty_empty_empty_empty_"+i(),t=f||e;googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",t)});var y=window.localStorage.getItem("mktg"),h=null;window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=h||y;e&&googletag.pubads().setTargeting("mktg",e)});var U,L=window.localStorage.getItem("bt");window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=U||L;e&&googletag.pubads().setTargeting("bt",e)});var T=window.localStorage.getItem("sub"),S=null;window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e=S||T;e&&googletag.pubads().setTargeting("sub",e)}),l=null==o?l:l+"&alice_rules_test="+o,s.open("GET",r+"/als?"+l+"&typ="+p+"&prop="+_+"&plat="+b,!0),s.withCredentials=!0,s.send(),s.onerror=function(){var e="reqfailed_reqfailed_reqfailed_reqfailed_reqfailed_"+i();f=e,window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",e)});var t={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-reqfail-"+l}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(t)},s.onreadystatechange=function(){if(4===s.readyState)if(200===s.status){var e=JSON.parse(s.responseText);f=e.als_test_clientside&&0!==e.als_test_clientside.length?e.als_test_clientside:"bou_bou_bou_bou_bou_"+i(),void 0!==e.User&&(void 0!==e.User.mktg&&(h=e.User.mktg,window.localStorage.setItem("mktg",e.User.mktg)),void 0!==e.User.bt&&(U=e.User.bt,window.localStorage.setItem("bt",e.User.bt)),void 0!==e.User.sub&&(S=e.User.sub,window.localStorage.setItem("sub",e.User.sub))),window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){if(e.als_test_clientside&&0!==e.als_test_clientside.length)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",e.als_test_clientside),window.localStorage.setItem("als_test_clientside","ls-"+e.als_test_clientside);else{var t=void 0===e.als_test_clientside?"undefined_undefined_undefined_undefined_undefined_"+i():"blank_blank_blank_blank_blank_"+i();googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",t);var a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-test-client-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(void 0!==e.User){if(h)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("mktg",h);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-mktg-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(void 0!==U)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("bt",U);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-bt-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(S)googletag.pubads().setTargeting("sub",S);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-sub-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}(e.User.lucidC1||e.User.lucidC2||e.User.lucidC3||e.User.lucidC4||e.User.lucidC5)&&dataLayer.push({event:"lucidtest",c1_val:e.User.lucidC1,c2_val:e.User.lucidC2,c3_val:e.User.lucidC3,c4_val:e.User.lucidC4,c5_val:e.User.lucidC5})}else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-user-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}if(void 0!==e.Asset)for(var n in e.Asset){var o=e.Asset[n];if(o)googletag.pubads().setTargeting(n,o);else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-"+n+"-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}}else{a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-asset-undefined"}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}})}else{s.responseText.substring(0,40);var t="error_error_"+s.status+"_error_error_"+i();window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.pubads().setTargeting("als_test_clientside",t)});var a={event:"impression",module:{name:"alice-timing",context:"script-load",label:"alice-error-ajaxreq-"+s.status+"-"+l}};(window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[]).push(a)}}};;_f.apply(null, [null,null,"als_toggle"]); })();
</script>
<script data-rh="true" id="adslot-config">
(function() {
var AdSlot4=function(){"use strict";function i(){return window.AdSlot4=window.AdSlot4||{},window.AdSlot4.cmd=window.AdSlot4.cmd||[],window.AdSlot4}function n(){return!("undefined"==typeof window||!window.document||!window.document.createElement)}function t(e){return-1!==document.cookie.indexOf(e)}function o(e){var n={PURR_AcceptableTrackers:0,PURR_AdConfiguration:5,PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI:2,PURR_DataProcessingConsentUI:3,PURR_AcceptableTrackers_v2:4,PURR_AdConfiguration_v2:5,PURR_DataProcessingPreferenceUI:6,PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI_v2:7,PURR_CaliforniaNoticesUI:8,PURR_EmailMarketingOptInUI:9,PURR_DeleteIPAddress:10,PURR_AdConfiguration_v3:11},t=function(e){e=("; "+document.cookie).split("; "+e+"=");return 2===e.length?e.pop().split(";").shift():null}(e),o={};return Object.keys(n).forEach(function(e){o[e]=function(e,n){n=new RegExp("^.{"+n+"}(.)"),n=e.match(n);return(null==n?void 0:n[1])||""}(t,n[e])}),d.forEach(function(n){Object.keys(n.valueMapping).forEach(function(e){n.valueMapping[e]===o[n.name]&&(o[n.name]=e)})}),o}function a(){var e;try{return function(){if("undefined"==typeof window)return!1;var e=window.navigator.userAgent||window.navigator.vendor,n=-1!==e.indexOf("nyt_android"),t=-1!==e.indexOf("nytios"),o=-1!==e.indexOf("nyt_xwords_ios"),e=-1!==e.indexOf("Crosswords");return n||t||o||e}()?null!==(e=null===window||void 0===window?void 0:window.config)&&void 0!==e&&e.PurrDirectives?window.config.PurrDirectives:t("override-purr")?o("override-purr"):r({},c):t("nyt-purr")?o("nyt-purr"):r({},c)}catch(e){return console.warn("can’t get directives from cookie or config",e),r({},c)}}var r=function(){return(r=Object.assign||function(e){for(var n,t=1,o=arguments.length;t<o;t++)for(var i in n=arguments[t])Object.prototype.hasOwnProperty.call(n,i)&&(e[i]=n[i]);return e}).apply(this,arguments)},d=[{name:"PURR_AcceptableTrackers",valueMapping:{controllers:"c",processors:"p"}},{name:"PURR_AdConfiguration",valueMapping:{full:"f",npa:"n","adluce-socrates":"s"}},{name:"PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s"}},{name:"PURR_DataProcessingConsentUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s"}},{name:"PURR_AcceptableTrackers_v2",valueMapping:{controllers:"c",processors:"p",essentials:"e"}},{name:"PURR_AdConfiguration_v2",valueMapping:{full:"f",rdp:"r",npa:"n",adluce:"a","adluce-socrates":"s"}},{name:"PURR_DataProcessingPreferenceUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h","allow-opt-out":"o","allow-opt-in":"i","allow-opt-in-or-out":"a"}},{name:"PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI_v2",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s","show-opted-out":"o"}},{name:"PURR_CaliforniaNoticesUI",valueMapping:{hide:"h",show:"s"}},{name:"PURR_EmailMarketingOptInUI",valueMapping:{checked:"c",unchecked:"u"}},{name:"PURR_DeleteIPAddress",valueMapping:{delete:"d",keep:"k"}},{name:"PURR_AdConfiguration_v3",valueMapping:{full:"f",rdp:"r",npa:"n",ltd:"l","adluce-socrates":"s"}}],c={PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI:"hide",PURR_DataSaleOptOutUI_v2:"hide",PURR_CaliforniaNoticesUI:"hide",PURR_DataProcessingConsentUI:"hide",PURR_DataProcessingPreferenceUI:"hide",PURR_AcceptableTrackers_v2:"controllers",PURR_AcceptableTrackers:"controllers",PURR_AdConfiguration_v2:"full",PURR_AdConfiguration:"full",PURR_EmailMarketingOptInUI:"checked",PURR_DeleteIPAddress:"delete",PURR_AdConfiguration_v3:"full"};function e(){return"full"===(e={},n()&&(e=a().PURR_AdConfiguration_v3||a().PURR_AdConfiguration_v2),e);var e}function s(){return!(!!n()&&null!==window.navigator.userAgent.match(/nyt[-_]?(?:ios|android)/i))&&e()}function u(e,n,t){var o=document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0],i=document.createElement("script");n&&(i.onload=n),t&&(i.onerror=t),i.src=e,i.async=!0,o.appendChild(i)}function l(){i().cmd.push(function(){var e="".concat("GeoEdge"," failed to load");i().events.publish({name:h,value:{message:e}})})}function p(){return!window.grumi&&(u("//rumcdn.geoedge.be/b3960cc6-bfd2-4adc-910c-6e917e8a6a0e/grumi-ip.js",null,l),window.grumi={key:"b3960cc6-bfd2-4adc-910c-6e917e8a6a0e",cfg:{advs:v}})}function m(){var e;window.apstag||(e="".concat(b," not loading properly"),console.warn(e))}function f(){i().cmd.push(function(){var e="".concat(b," failed to load");i().events.publish({name:U,value:{type:b,message:e}})})}function w(){window.apstag&&window.apstag.setDisplayBids&&function(){var e=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:window;return e.googletag=e.googletag||{},e.googletag.cmd=e.googletag.cmd||[],e.googletag}().cmd.push(window.apstag.setDisplayBids())}function g(e){return!(!window.apstag||!window.apstag.fetchBids)&&(window.apstag.fetchBids({slots:e},w()),!0)}var v={32074718:!0,4792640386:!0,21966278:!0,4558311760:!0,4552626466:!0,4400775978:!0,39318518:!0,4874174581:!0,33597638:!0,38636678:!0,38637278:!0,33597998:!0,33613118:!0},h="script_loader_error",b="A9",_=[[300,250],[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]],R="large",y="medium",P="small",U="BidderError",A="AdEmpty",k="AdBlockOn",x="AdDefined",I="AdRefreshed";function D(e,n){var t;return(e=[].concat((t=n,[].concat(e).slice().sort(function(e,n){return n[0]-e[0]}).find(function(e){return!Number.isNaN(e[0])&&e[0]<t}))).pop())&&e.length?e:null}function C(i){return function(){var e,n=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:{},t=n.sizes,o=void 0===t?[]:t,t=n.truePosition,n=n.id,o=D(o,window.innerWidth);if(o){o=(e=o,Array.isArray(e)?_.filter(function(n){return e.some(function(e){return e[0]===n[0]&&e[1]===n[1]})}):(console.warn("filterSizes() did not receive an array"),[])),o=[{slotID:t||n,slotName:"".concat(t||n,"_").concat(i,"_web"),sizes:o}];return g(o),!0}return!1}}function O(e,n,t){return n in e?Object.defineProperty(e,n,{value:t,enumerable:!0,configurable:!0,writable:!0}):e[n]=t,e}function z(t,o){return T.map(function(e){var n=e.id,e=e.sizes;return{slotID:n,slotName:"".concat(n,"_").concat(o,"_web"),sizes:(e=e)[t]||e[P]}})}function S(n,t){i().cmd.push(function(){var e;n&&g(z(740<(e=window.innerWidth)?R:600<e?y:P,t)),i().events.subscribe({name:x,scope:"all",callback:C(t)})})}function M(e,n,t){(function(){var e,t=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:"apstag",o=1<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[1]?arguments[1]:window;return o[t]||(e=function(e,n){return o[t]._Q.push([e,n])},o[t]={_Q:[],init:function(){e("i",arguments)},fetchBids:function(){e("f",arguments)},setDisplayBids:function(){},targetingKeys:function(){return[]}}),o[t]})("apstag",window).init({pubID:"3030",adServer:"googletag",params:{si_section:n}}),S(e,t)}function E(e,n){var t,o={openx:V,rubicon:N,medianet:F}[e];switch(n.includes("mid")?"mid":n){case"top":t=o.top;break;case"mid":t=o.mid;break;case"bottom":t=o.bottom;break;default:t=o.default}return t}function j(e){var n;switch(e){case"livebl":n="hp";break;case"int":n="art";break;case"coll":n="sf";break;default:n=e}return n in B||(n="default"),n}var T=[{id:"dfp-ad-top",sizes:(O(te={},R,[[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]]),O(te,y,[[728,90],[300,250]]),O(te,P,[[300,250],[300,420]]),te)},{id:"top",sizes:(O(ne={},R,[[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]]),O(ne,y,[[728,90],[300,250]]),O(ne,P,[[300,250],[300,420]]),ne)}],B={art:{id:["top","story-ad-1","story-ad-2","story-ad-3","story-ad-4","story-ad-5","story-ad-6","bottom"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2","mid3","mid4","mid5","mid6","bottom"]},hp:{id:["dfp-ad-top","dfp-ad-mid1","dfp-ad-mid2","dfp-ad-mid3","dfp-ad-bottom"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2","mid3","bottom"]},ss:{id:["right-0","right-1","right-2","right-3"],pos:["mid1","mid1","mid1","mid1"],size:{small:[[300,250]],medium:[[300,250]],large:[[300,250]]}},sf:{id:["top","mid1","mid2"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2"]},default:{id:["top","mid1","mid2"],pos:["top","mid1","mid2"],size:{small:[[300,250],[300,420]],medium:[[728,90]],large:[[728,90],[970,90],[970,250]]}}},N={top:2088370,mid:2088372,bottom:2088374,default:2088376},V={top:544112060,mid:544112063,bottom:544112062,default:544112065},F={top:684296214,mid:190706820,bottom:932254072,default:153468583};function q(o,e){var i=j(e);return B[i].pos.reduce(function(e,n,t){t={code:B[i].id[t],mediaTypes:{banner:{sizeConfig:[{minViewPort:[970,0],sizes:(B[i].size?B[i]:B.default).size.large},{minViewPort:[728,0],sizes:(B[i].size?B[i]:B.default).size.medium},{minViewPort:[0,0],sizes:(B[i].size?B[i]:B.default).size.small}]}},bids:(t=n,[{bidder:"appnexus",params:{member:3661,invCode:"nyt_".concat(n=o,"_").concat(t)}},{bidder:"medianet",params:{cid:"8CU4WQK98",crid:E("medianet",t)}},{bidder:"rubicon",params:{accountId:12330,siteId:378266,inventory:{invCode:["nyt_".concat(n,"_").concat(t)]},zoneId:E("rubicon",t)}},{bidder:"openx",params:{unit:E("openx",t),delDomain:"nytimes-d.openx.net",customParams:{invCode:"nyt_".concat(n,"_").concat(t)}}},{bidder:"triplelift",params:{inventoryCode:function(e){e=e.includes("top")||e.includes("bottom")?e:"mid";return"NYTimes_728x90_970_".concat(e="bottom"===e?"bot":e,"_PB")}(t)}}])};return e.push(t),e},[])}function G(t){window.pbjs&&window.pbjs.initAdserverSet||(window.pbjs.initAdserverSet=!0,i().cmd.push(function(){i().events.subscribe({name:"AdDefined",scope:"all",callback:function(n){window.googletag.cmd.push(function(){var e;(e=j(e=t),B[e].id).includes(n.id)&&window.pbjs.setTargetingForGPTAsync([n.id])})}})}))}function H(t,e,n){function o(e,n){window.pbjs.initAdserverSet=!1,t.requestBids({bidsBackHandler:function(){G(e)},timeout:n})}i().cmd.push(function(){t.que.push(function(){t.addAdUnits(q(e,n)),o(n,1e4),i().events.subscribe({name:I,scope:"all",callback:function(){o(n,800)}})})})}function Y(o,i){return function(){var e,n,t;window.pbjs||console.log("prebid did not load"),e=o,n=i,(t=window.googletag||{}).cmd=t.cmd||[],(t=window.pbjs||{}).que=t.que||[],t.setConfig({priceGranularity:{buckets:[{max:10,increment:.05},{max:20,increment:.1},{max:50,increment:.5},{max:101,increment:1}]}}),H(t,e,n)}}function Q(){i().cmd.push(function(){var e="".concat("PreBid"," failed to load");i().events.publish({name:U,value:{type:"PreBid",message:e}})})}function W(){try{var e=((n=document.createElement("div")).innerHTML=" ",n.className="ad adsbox pub_300x250 pub_300x250m pub_728x90 text-ad textAd text_ad ad-server",n.style="width: 1px !important; height: 1px !important; position: absolute !important; left: -10000px !important; top: -1000px !important;",document.body.prepend(n),document.getElementsByClassName("ad adsbox")[0]),n=!(!(n=e)||0!==n.offsetHeight&&0!==n.clientHeight)||function(e){if(void 0!==window.getComputedStyle){e=window.getComputedStyle(e,null);if(e&&("none"===e.getPropertyValue("display")||"hidden"===e.getPropertyValue("visibility")))return!0}return!1}(e);return e=e,document.body.removeChild(e),n}catch(e){console.error("ad class check failed",e)}var n;return!1}function Z(){return!(window&&window.AdSlot&&window.AdSlot.AdSlotReady)||(!(window&&window.googletag&&window.googletag.apiReady)||W())}function K(){var e=window&&window.nyt_et&&window.nyt_et.get_host&&window.nyt_et.get_host();return e?fetch("".concat(e,"/.status"),{credentials:"include",headers:{accept:"*/*","content-type":"text/plain;charset=UTF-8"},mode:"no-cors"}).then(function(){return{success:!0}}).catch(function(e){return console.error("et track blocked",e),{success:!1}}):Promise.resolve({success:!1})}function L(e,n,t){var o=(i="nyt-a",(document&&document.cookie&&document.cookie.match&&(i=document.cookie.match(new RegExp("".concat(i,"=([^;]+)"))))?i[1]:"")||null),i=!!(window&&window.matchMedia&&window.matchMedia("(max-width: 739px)").matches);return"".concat("https://a-reporting.nytimes.com/report.jpg","?mobile=").concat(i,"&block=").concat(t,"&aid=").concat(o,"&pvid=").concat(e,"&et=").concat(n)}function J(e,n,t){return!!(window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra&&"1_network_detection"===window.NYTD.Abra("DFP_blockDetect_0221"))&&((new Image).src=L(e,n,t),!0)}function X(e,n){n&&i().cmd.push(function(){var e=i();e.events&&e.events.publish({name:A,value:{type:k}})});var t=!1;return K().then(function(){t=(0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:{success:!1}).success}).catch(function(){}).finally(function(){J(e,t,n)})}function $(e){var n;window.addEventListener("load",(n=e,function(){X(n,Z())}))}var ee,ne,te=function(){var e=0<arguments.length&&void 0!==arguments[0]?arguments[0]:{};if(ee)return!1;var n=e.loadAmazon,t=void 0===n||n,o=e.loadPrebid,i=void 0===o||o,a=e.setFastFetch,r=void 0!==a&&a,d=e.loadGeoEdge,c=void 0===d||d,n=e.section,o=void 0===n?"none":n,a=e.pageViewId,d=void 0===a?"":a,n=e.pageType,a=void 0===n?"":n;return e=document.referrer||"",!(n=/([a-zA-Z0-9_\-.]+)(@|%40)([a-zA-Z0-9_\-.]+).([a-zA-Z]{2,5})/).test(e)&&!n.test(window.location.href)&&(s()&&(a=new RegExp(/art/).test(a)?"art":a,c&&p(),t&&(c=r,t=o,r=a,window.apstag||(u("//c.amazon-adsystem.com/aax2/apstag.js",m,f),M(c,t,r))),i&&(o=o,a=a,window.pbjs||u("https://www.nytimes.com/ads/prebid6.8.0.js",Y(o,a),Q))),$(d),ee=!0)};return(ne=i()).loadScripts=ne.loadScripts||te,window.AdSlot4=ne}();
(function () { var _f=function(e={}){const o=window&&window.AdSlot4;try{const{adToggleMap:i,pageType:t,section:n,isSectionHbEligible:d,setFastFetch:w}=e,a=Object.keys(i).reduce((e,o)=>{const t=i[o]||"";return e[o]=function(e){return!!(window&&window.adClientUtils&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle)&&window.adClientUtils.hasActiveToggle(e)}(t),e},{}),{amazon:c,geoedge:s}=a,l=c&&d;"function"==typeof o.loadScripts&&o.loadScripts({loadAmazon:l,loadPrebid:d,setFastFetch:w,section:n,pageType:t,pageViewId:window&&window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.PageViewId&&window.NYTD.PageViewId.current?window.NYTD.PageViewId.current:"",loadGeoEdge:s})}catch(e){console.error(e)}};;_f.apply(null, [{"adToggleMap":{"amazon":"amazon_story_toggle","medianet":"medianet_story_toggle","dfp":"dfp_story_toggle","geoedge":"geoedge_toggle"},"pageType":"artrev","section":"dining","isSectionHbEligible":true,"setFastFetch":true}]); })();
(function () { var _f=function(t={}){window.AdSlot4=window.AdSlot4||{},window.AdSlot4.cmd=window.AdSlot4.cmd||[],window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements={mergeObjects:function(t,...e){return e.reduce(function(t,e){return Object.entries(e).reduce(function(t,[e,n]){return t[e]&&null==n?t:Object.assign({},t,{[e]:n})},t)},t)},isFunction:function(t){return"[object Function]"===Object.prototype.toString.call(t)},getAbraVariant:function(t){if(!(window.NYTD&&window.NYTD.Abra&&window.NYTD.Abra.getAbraSync&&this.isFunction(window.NYTD.Abra.getAbraSync)))return void console.warn("Abra does not exist or is not a function");const e=window.NYTD.Abra.getAbraSync(t);return e&&e.variant},shouldHaltDFP:function(t){return"1_block"===this.getAbraVariant(t)},getSov:function(t={}){return t.sov=t.sov||(Math.floor(4*Math.random())+1).toString(),{sov:t.sov}},getPageViewId:function(t){return{page_view_id:t&&t.current}},getUserData:function(t="{}"){try{const e=JSON.parse(t).data;return e&&e.user}catch(t){console.warn("userinfo data unavailable")}},getEm:function(t){return t&&t.length?{em:t.toString().toLowerCase()}:{}},getWat:function(t){return t?{wat:t.toLowerCase()}:{}},getDemographics:function(t){return this.mergeObjects(this.getEm(t&&t.emailSubscriptions),this.getWat(t&&t.wat))},isValidDfpVariant:function(t){return t.toLowerCase().indexOf("dfp")>-1||t.indexOf("redbird")>-1},joinArgumentsForVariant:function(){if(arguments.length)return[].slice.call(arguments).join("_").toLowerCase()},reduceAbraConfigKeysToDfpVariants:function(t=[],e=""){const n=this.getAbraVariant(e),i=this.joinArgumentsForVariant(e,n);return n&&i?t.concat(i):t},getDFPTestNames:function(t={}){if(!t)return[];const e=this.isValidDfpVariant;return Object.keys(t).filter(function(t){return e(t)})},getAbraDfpVariants:function(t={}){this.isValidDfpVariant;let e="";if(t.config){e=this.getDFPTestNames(t.config).reduce(this.reduceAbraConfigKeysToDfpVariants,[])}return{abra_dfp:e}},isMobile:function(t){const e=t.matchMedia("(max-width: 739px)");return e&&e.matches},isManualRefresh:function(t={}){return!(!t.navigation||1!==t.navigation.type)},getAltLangFromPathname:function(t=""){return 0===t.indexOf("/es/")?"es":""},getAdTargetingProperty:function(t=!1,e=""){let n=t?"m":"";return{prop:(n+=e)+"nyt"}},getAdTargetingPlatform:function(t=!1){return{plat:(t?"m":"")+"web"}},getAdTargetingEdition:function(t=""){return t.length?{edn:t}:{}},getAdTargetingVersion:function(t=!1){return{ver:(t?"m":"")+"vi"}},getAdTargetingHome:function(t,e,n){let i={},o={};return"hp"===t&&(i=e?{topRef:e}:{},o=n?{refresh:"manual"}:{}),this.mergeObjects(i,o)},getAdTargeting:function(t={},e={}){const n=this.isMobile(window),i=this.getAltLangFromPathname(window.location.pathname),o=this.isManualRefresh(performance);return this.mergeObjects(t,this.getDemographics(e),this.getAdTargetingProperty(n,i),this.getAdTargetingPlatform(n),this.getAdTargetingEdition(i),this.getAdTargetingVersion(n),this.getAdTargetingHome(t.typ,document.referrer,o),this.getAbraDfpVariants(window.NYTD.Abra),this.getSov(window),this.getPageViewId(window.NYTD.PageViewId))},init:function(t){window.AdSlot4.init&&this.isFunction(window.AdSlot4.init)?window.AdSlot4.init&&window.AdSlot4.init(t):console.warn("AdSlot4.init does not exist or is not a function")},reportExposure:function(t){window.NYTD.Abra&&this.isFunction(window.NYTD.Abra.reportExposure)?window.NYTD.Abra.reportExposure(t):console.warn("Abra.reportExposure does not exist or is not a function")},generateConfig:function(t={},e={},n={}){const i=n&&n.userInfo&&n.userInfo.demographics;return this.mergeObjects(t,e,{adTargeting:this.getAdTargeting(e.adTargeting,i),haltDFP:this.shouldHaltDFP(e.dfpToggleName||t.dfpToggleName)})}};for(let t in window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements)window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements[t]=window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements[t].bind(window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements);const e={adUnitPath:"/29390238/nyt/homepage",offset:400,hideTopAd:AdSlot4.clientRequirements.isMobile(window),lockdownAds:!1,sizeMapping:{top:[[970,["fluid",[728,90],[970,90],[970,250],[1605,300]]],[728,["fluid",[728,90],[1605,300]]],[0,[]]],fp1:[[0,[[195,250],[215,270]]]],fp2:[[0,[[195,250],[215,270]]]],fp3:[[0,[[195,250],[215,270]]]],feat1:[[0,["fluid"]]],feat2:[[0,["fluid"]]],feat3:[[0,["fluid"]]],feat4:[[0,["fluid"]]],mktg:[[1020,[300,250]],[0,[]]],pencil:[[728,[[336,46]],[0,[]]]],pp_edpick:[[0,["fluid"]]],pp_morein:[[0,["fluid"],[210,218]]],ribbon:[[0,["fluid"]]],sponsor:[[765,[150,50]],[0,[320,25]]],supplemental:[[1020,[[300,250],[300,600]]],[0,[]]],chat:[[0,[[300,250],[300,420]]]],column:[[0,[[300,250],[300,420]]]],default:[[970,["fluid",[728,90],[970,90],[970,250],[1605,300]]],[728,["fluid",[728,90],[300,250],[1605,300]]],[0,["fluid",[300,250],[300,420]]]]},adTargeting:{},haltDFP:!1,dfpToggleName:t.dfpToggleName||"dfp_home_toggle",lazyApi:t.lazyApi||{}};window.AdSlot4.cmd.push(function(){const n=window.AdSlot4.clientRequirements,i=n.getUserData(window&&window.userXhrObject&&window.userXhrObject.responseText),o=n.generateConfig(e,t,i);n.init(o),n.reportExposure("dfp_adslot4v2")})};;_f.apply(null, [{"adTargeting":{"edn":"us","test":"projectvi","ver":"vi","template":"article","hasVideo":"false","vp":"small","als_test":"1648344512927","prop":"mnyt","plat":"mweb","brandsensitive":"false","per":"nakamurashigetoshi","org":"nichemanhattannyrestaurant","geo":"lowereastsidemanhattanny","des":"noodles,restaurants,soups,chefs","auth":"petewells","col":"restaurantreview","coll":"restaurantreview,newyork,multimedia,food","artlen":"medium","ledemedsz":"none","typ":"artrev","section":"dining","si_section":"dining","id":"100000006457646","pt":"nt11,nt15,nt17,nt4,nt5,nt7,nt8,pt1,pt10,pt13,pt9","gscat":"gs_food,gs_food_misc,neg_citi_aa,neg_mastercard,neg_aramco,gs_event_blackfriday,gs_food_estab,gv_safe,gs_t","mt":"MT1,MT4,MT6"},"adUnitPath":"/29390238/nyt/dining","dfpToggleName":"dfp_story_toggle"}]); })();
})();
</script>
</head>
<body>
<div id="app">
<div>
<div class="">
<div>
<div class="NYTAppHideMasthead css-1q2w90k e1m0pzr40">
<header class="css-1bymuyk e1m0pzr41">
<section class="css-ui9rw0 e1m0pzr42">
<div class="css-1f7ibof ea180rp0">
<div class="css-6n7j50">
<button aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="Sections Navigation & Search" class="ea180rp1 css-fzvsed" data-testid="nav-button" type="button">
<svg class="css-1fe7a5q" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="3">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="7">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="11">
</rect>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
<button aria-label="Sections Navigation" class="css-123u7tk ea180rp2" data-testid="desktop-section-button" id="desktop-sections-button">
<span class="css-1dv1kvn">
Sections
</span>
<svg class="css-1fe7a5q" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="3">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="7">
</rect>
<rect fill="#333" height="2" width="14" x="1" y="11">
</rect>
</svg>
</button>
<div class="css-10488qs">
<button class="css-tkwi90 e1iflr850" data-test-id="search-button">
<span class="css-1dv1kvn">
SEARCH
</span>
<svg class="css-1fe7a5q" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<path d="M11.3,9.2C11.7,8.4,12,7.5,12,6.5C12,3.5,9.5,1,6.5,1S1,3.5,1,6.5S3.5,12,6.5,12c1,0,1.9-0.3,2.7-0.7l3.3,3.3c0.3,0.3,0.7,0.4,1.1,0.4s0.8-0.1,1.1-0.4c0.6-0.6,0.6-1.5,0-2.1L11.3,9.2zM6.5,10.3c-2.1,0-3.8-1.7-3.8-3.8c0-2.1,1.7-3.8,3.8-3.8c2.1,0,3.8,1.7,3.8,3.8C10.3,8.6,8.6,10.3,6.5,10.3z" fill="#333">
</path>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
<a class="css-1f8er69" href="#site-content">
Skip to content
</a>
<a class="css-1f8er69" href="#site-index">
Skip to site index
</a>
</div>
<div class="css-1wr3we4 ek6sfxi0" id="masthead-section-label">
<a class="css-nuvmzp" href="https://www.nytimes.com/section/food">
Food
</a>
</div>
<div class="css-10698na ell52qj0">
<a aria-label="New York Times Logo. Click to visit the homepage" class="css-nhjhh0 ell52qj1" data-testid="masthead-mobile-logo" href="/">
<svg fill="#000" viewbox="0 0 184 25">
<path d="M13.8 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8C6.2 1.4 5 1 4 1 2 1 .6 2.5.6 4.2c0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.5-.4-.5-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8v3.1L9 10.2v.1l1.5 1.3v4.3c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2C3.6 6.9 4.7 6 5.8 5.4l-.1-.3c-3 .8-5.7 3.6-5.7 7 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1l-1.6-1.3V5.8c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7 0-1.5.2-2.1l2.1-.9v6.2zm10.6 2.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.2-.8.5-1-1V9.4l.8-.6 1.7 1.4v6.1c0 3.8-.8 4.4-2.5 5v.3c2.8.1 5.4-.8 5.4-5.7V9.3l.9-.7-.2-.2-.8.6-2.5-2.1L18.5 9V.8h-.2l-3.5 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .4 1 1.5l-.1 11.3zM34 15.1L31.5 17 29 15v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM53.1 2c0-.3-.1-.6-.2-.9h-.2c-.3.8-.7 1.2-1.7 1.2-.9 0-1.5-.5-1.9-.9l-2.9 3.3.2.2 1-.9c.6.5 1.1.9 2.5 1v8.3L44 3.2c-.5-.8-1.2-1.9-2.6-1.9-1.6 0-3 1.4-2.8 3.6h.3c.1-.6.4-1.3 1.1-1.3.5 0 1 .5 1.3 1v3.3c-1.8 0-3 .8-3 2.3 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2.3v-.2c-.2-.2-.3-.4-.3-.7 0-.5.4-.9 1.1-.9h.5v4.2c-2.1 0-3.8 1.2-3.8 3.2 0 1.9 1.6 2.8 3.4 2.7v-.2c-1.1-.1-1.6-.6-1.6-1.3 0-.9.6-1.3 1.4-1.3.8 0 1.5.5 2 1.1l2.9-3.2-.2-.2-.7.8c-1.1-1-1.7-1.3-3-1.5V5l8 14h.6V5c1.5-.1 2.9-1.3 2.9-3zm7.3 13.1L57.9 17l-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM76.7 8l-.7.5-1.9-1.6-2.2 2 .9.9v7.5l-2.4-1.5V9.6l.8-.5-2.3-2.2-2.2 2 .9.9V17l-.3.2-2.1-1.5v-6c0-1.4-.7-1.8-1.5-2.3-.7-.5-1.1-.8-1.1-1.5 0-.6.6-.9.9-1.1v-.2c-.8 0-2.9.8-2.9 2.7 0 1 .5 1.4 1 1.9s1 .9 1 1.8v5.8l-1.1.8.2.2 1-.8 2.3 2 2.5-1.7 2.8 1.7 5.3-3.1V9.2l1.3-1-.2-.2zm18.6-5.5l-1 .9-2.2-2-3.3 2.4V1.6h-.3l.1 16.2c-.3 0-1.2-.2-1.9-.4l-.2-13.5c0-1-.7-2.4-2.5-2.4s-3 1.4-3 2.8h.3c.1-.6.4-1.1 1-1.1s1.1.4 1.1 1.7v3.9c-1.8.1-2.9 1.1-2.9 2.4 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2V13c-.4-.2-.5-.5-.5-.7 0-.6.5-.8 1.3-.8h.4v6.2c-1.5.5-2.1 1.6-2.1 2.8 0 1.7 1.3 2.9 3.3 2.9 1.4 0 2.6-.2 3.8-.5 1-.2 2.3-.5 2.9-.5.8 0 1.1.4 1.1.9 0 .7-.3 1-.7 1.1v.2c1.6-.3 2.6-1.3 2.6-2.8s-1.5-2.4-3.1-2.4c-.8 0-2.5.3-3.7.5-1.4.3-2.8.5-3.2.5-.7 0-1.5-.3-1.5-1.3 0-.8.7-1.5 2.4-1.5.9 0 2 .1 3.1.4 1.2.3 2.3.6 3.3.6 1.5 0 2.8-.5 2.8-2.6V3.7l1.2-1-.2-.2zm-4.1 6.1c-.3.3-.7.6-1.2.6s-1-.3-1.2-.6V4.2l1-.7 1.4 1.3v3.8zm0 3c-.2-.2-.7-.5-1.2-.5s-1 .3-1.2.5V9c.2.2.7.5 1.2.5s1-.3 1.2-.5v2.6zm0 4.7c0 .8-.5 1.6-1.6 1.6h-.8V12c.2-.2.7-.5 1.2-.5s.9.3 1.2.5v4.3zm13.7-7.1l-3.2-2.3-4.9 2.8v6.5l-1 .8.1.2.8-.6 3.2 2.4 5-3V9.2zm-5.4 6.3V8.3l2.5 1.8v7.1l-2.5-1.7zm14.9-8.4h-.2c-.3.2-.6.4-.9.4-.4 0-.9-.2-1.1-.5h-.2l-1.7 1.9-1.7-1.9-3 2 .1.2.8-.5 1 1.1v6.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.4 2 3.1-2.1-.1-.2-.9.5-1.2-1V9c.5.5 1.1 1 1.8 1 1.4.1 2.2-1.3 2.3-2.9zm12 9.6L123 19l-4.6-7 3.3-5.1h.2c.4.4 1 .8 1.7.8s1.2-.4 1.5-.8h.2c-.1 2-1.5 3.2-2.5 3.2s-1.5-.5-2.1-.8l-.3.5 5 7.4 1-.6v.1zm-11-.5l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.2-.2-.8.5-1-1V.8h-.1l-3.6 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .3 1 1.5v11.3zM143 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8-1.3-.4-2.5-.8-3.5-.8-2 0-3.4 1.5-3.4 3.2 0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.3-.2-.6-.4-.6-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8V9l-1.5 1.3v.1l1.5 1.3V16c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2c.5-1.3 1.6-2.2 2.6-2.9l-.1-.2c-3 .8-5.7 3.5-5.7 6.9 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1L140 8.8v-3c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7.1-1.5.3-2.1l2.1-.9-.1 6.2zm12.2-12h-.1l-2 1.7v.1l1.7 1.9h.2l2-1.7v-.1l-1.8-1.9zm3 14.8l-.8.5-1-1V9.3l1-.7-.2-.2-.7.6-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .2.3.7-.5.9 1.1v6.5l-1.3 1 .1.2.7-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.3zm16.7-.1l-.7.5-1.1-1V9.3l1-.8-.2-.2-.8.7-2.3-2.1-3 2.1-2.3-2.1L154 9l-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .1.3.7-.5 1 1.1v6.5l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.9-.6 1.5 1.4v6l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.8-.5 1.6 1.4v6l-.7.7 2.3 2.1 3.1-2.1v-.3zm8.7-1.5l-2.5 1.9-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.8l3.5 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.3zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zm14.1-.9l-1.9-1.5c1.3-1.1 1.8-2.6 1.8-3.6v-.6h-.2c-.2.5-.6 1-1.4 1-.8 0-1.3-.4-1.8-1L176 9.3v3.6l1.7 1.3c-1.7 1.5-2 2.5-2 3.3 0 1 .5 1.7 1.3 2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.4-.8 0-.3.4-.8 1.2-.8 1 0 1.6.7 1.9 1l4.3-2.6v-3.6h-.1zm-1.1-3c-.7 1.2-2.2 2.4-3.1 3l-1.1-.9V8.1c.4 1 1.5 1.8 2.6 1.8.7 0 1.1-.1 1.6-.4zm-1.7 8c-.5-1.1-1.7-1.9-2.9-1.9-.3 0-1.1 0-1.9.5.5-.8 1.8-2.2 3.5-3.2l1.2 1 .1 3.6z">
</path>
</svg>
</a>
</div>
<div class="css-y3sf94 e1j3jvdr1">
<a class="css-1kj7lfb" href="https://myaccount.nytimes.com/auth/login?response_type=cookie&client_id=vi&redirect_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nytimes.com%2Fsubscription%2Fmultiproduct%2Flp8KQUS.html%3FcampaignId%3D7JFJX&asset=masthead">
<span class="css-htw48t e1j3jvdr0">
Log in
</span>
</a>
<div class="css-6n7j50">
<button aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="Account" class="e1j3jvdr4 css-fozwf3" data-testid="user-settings-button" type="button">
<svg class="css-10m9xeu" fill="#333" viewbox="0 0 16 16">
<path d="M8,10c-2.5,0-7,1.1-7,3.5V16h14v-2.5C15,11.1,10.5,10,8,10z">
</path>
<circle cx="8" cy="4" r="4">
</circle>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</section>
<section class="hasLinks css-1r0gz1j e1pjtsj63" id="masthead-bar-one">
<div>
<div class="css-1o0kkht e1pjtsj60">
</div>
<div class="css-1bvtpon e1pjtsj62">
<a class="css-hnzl8o" href="https://www.nytimes.com/section/todayspaper">
Today’s Paper
</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-9e9ivx">
<a class="css-1k0lris" data-testid="login-link" href="https://myaccount.nytimes.com/auth/login?response_type=cookie&client_id=vi&redirect_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nytimes.com%2Fsubscription%2Fmultiproduct%2Flp8KQUS.html%3FcampaignId%3D7JFJX&asset=masthead">
</a>
</div>
</section>
</header>
</div>
</div>
<div aria-hidden="false">
<main id="site-content">
<div>
<div class="css-1aor85t" id="in-story-masthead" style="opacity:0.000000001;z-index:-1;visibility:hidden">
<div class="css-1hqnpie">
<div class="css-epjblv">
<span class="css-17xtcya">
<a href="/section/food">
Food
</a>
</span>
<span class="css-x15j1o">
|
</span>
<span class="css-fwqvlz">
Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish
</span>
</div>
<div class="css-k008qs">
<div class="css-1iwv8en">
<a href="/">
<svg class="css-1tel06d" viewbox="0 0 16 22">
<path d="M15.863 13.08c-.687 1.818-1.923 3.147-3.64 3.916v-3.917l2.129-1.958-2.129-1.889V6.505c1.923-.14 3.228-1.609 3.228-3.358C15.45.84 13.32 0 12.086 0c-.275 0-.55 0-.962.14v.14h.481c.824 0 1.51.42 1.51 1.189 0 .63-.48 1.189-1.304 1.189-2.129 0-4.6-1.749-7.279-1.749C2.13.91.481 2.728.481 4.546c0 1.819 1.03 2.448 2.128 2.798v-.14c-.343-.21-.618-.63-.618-1.189 0-.84.756-1.469 1.648-1.469 2.267 0 5.906 1.959 8.172 1.959h.206v2.727l-2.129 1.889 2.13 1.958v3.987c-.894.35-1.786.49-2.748.49-3.502 0-5.768-2.169-5.768-5.806 0-.839.137-1.678.344-2.518l1.785-.769v7.973l3.57-1.608V6.575L3.984 8.953c.55-1.61 1.648-2.728 2.953-3.358v-.07C3.433 6.295 0 9.023 0 13.08c0 4.686 3.914 7.974 8.446 7.974 4.807 0 7.485-3.288 7.554-7.974h-.137z" fill="#000">
</path>
</svg>
</a>
<span class="css-18z7m18">
<a aria-label="New York Times Logo. Click to visit the homepage" data-testid="masthead-logo" href="/">
<svg class="css-12fr9lp" fill="#000" viewbox="0 0 184 25">
<path d="M13.8 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8C6.2 1.4 5 1 4 1 2 1 .6 2.5.6 4.2c0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.5-.4-.5-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8v3.1L9 10.2v.1l1.5 1.3v4.3c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2C3.6 6.9 4.7 6 5.8 5.4l-.1-.3c-3 .8-5.7 3.6-5.7 7 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1l-1.6-1.3V5.8c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7 0-1.5.2-2.1l2.1-.9v6.2zm10.6 2.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.2-.8.5-1-1V9.4l.8-.6 1.7 1.4v6.1c0 3.8-.8 4.4-2.5 5v.3c2.8.1 5.4-.8 5.4-5.7V9.3l.9-.7-.2-.2-.8.6-2.5-2.1L18.5 9V.8h-.2l-3.5 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .4 1 1.5l-.1 11.3zM34 15.1L31.5 17 29 15v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM53.1 2c0-.3-.1-.6-.2-.9h-.2c-.3.8-.7 1.2-1.7 1.2-.9 0-1.5-.5-1.9-.9l-2.9 3.3.2.2 1-.9c.6.5 1.1.9 2.5 1v8.3L44 3.2c-.5-.8-1.2-1.9-2.6-1.9-1.6 0-3 1.4-2.8 3.6h.3c.1-.6.4-1.3 1.1-1.3.5 0 1 .5 1.3 1v3.3c-1.8 0-3 .8-3 2.3 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2.3v-.2c-.2-.2-.3-.4-.3-.7 0-.5.4-.9 1.1-.9h.5v4.2c-2.1 0-3.8 1.2-3.8 3.2 0 1.9 1.6 2.8 3.4 2.7v-.2c-1.1-.1-1.6-.6-1.6-1.3 0-.9.6-1.3 1.4-1.3.8 0 1.5.5 2 1.1l2.9-3.2-.2-.2-.7.8c-1.1-1-1.7-1.3-3-1.5V5l8 14h.6V5c1.5-.1 2.9-1.3 2.9-3zm7.3 13.1L57.9 17l-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.6l-1 .8.2.2.9-.7 3.4 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.4zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zM76.7 8l-.7.5-1.9-1.6-2.2 2 .9.9v7.5l-2.4-1.5V9.6l.8-.5-2.3-2.2-2.2 2 .9.9V17l-.3.2-2.1-1.5v-6c0-1.4-.7-1.8-1.5-2.3-.7-.5-1.1-.8-1.1-1.5 0-.6.6-.9.9-1.1v-.2c-.8 0-2.9.8-2.9 2.7 0 1 .5 1.4 1 1.9s1 .9 1 1.8v5.8l-1.1.8.2.2 1-.8 2.3 2 2.5-1.7 2.8 1.7 5.3-3.1V9.2l1.3-1-.2-.2zm18.6-5.5l-1 .9-2.2-2-3.3 2.4V1.6h-.3l.1 16.2c-.3 0-1.2-.2-1.9-.4l-.2-13.5c0-1-.7-2.4-2.5-2.4s-3 1.4-3 2.8h.3c.1-.6.4-1.1 1-1.1s1.1.4 1.1 1.7v3.9c-1.8.1-2.9 1.1-2.9 2.4 0 .8.4 2 1.6 2V13c-.4-.2-.5-.5-.5-.7 0-.6.5-.8 1.3-.8h.4v6.2c-1.5.5-2.1 1.6-2.1 2.8 0 1.7 1.3 2.9 3.3 2.9 1.4 0 2.6-.2 3.8-.5 1-.2 2.3-.5 2.9-.5.8 0 1.1.4 1.1.9 0 .7-.3 1-.7 1.1v.2c1.6-.3 2.6-1.3 2.6-2.8s-1.5-2.4-3.1-2.4c-.8 0-2.5.3-3.7.5-1.4.3-2.8.5-3.2.5-.7 0-1.5-.3-1.5-1.3 0-.8.7-1.5 2.4-1.5.9 0 2 .1 3.1.4 1.2.3 2.3.6 3.3.6 1.5 0 2.8-.5 2.8-2.6V3.7l1.2-1-.2-.2zm-4.1 6.1c-.3.3-.7.6-1.2.6s-1-.3-1.2-.6V4.2l1-.7 1.4 1.3v3.8zm0 3c-.2-.2-.7-.5-1.2-.5s-1 .3-1.2.5V9c.2.2.7.5 1.2.5s1-.3 1.2-.5v2.6zm0 4.7c0 .8-.5 1.6-1.6 1.6h-.8V12c.2-.2.7-.5 1.2-.5s.9.3 1.2.5v4.3zm13.7-7.1l-3.2-2.3-4.9 2.8v6.5l-1 .8.1.2.8-.6 3.2 2.4 5-3V9.2zm-5.4 6.3V8.3l2.5 1.8v7.1l-2.5-1.7zm14.9-8.4h-.2c-.3.2-.6.4-.9.4-.4 0-.9-.2-1.1-.5h-.2l-1.7 1.9-1.7-1.9-3 2 .1.2.8-.5 1 1.1v6.3l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.4 2 3.1-2.1-.1-.2-.9.5-1.2-1V9c.5.5 1.1 1 1.8 1 1.4.1 2.2-1.3 2.3-2.9zm12 9.6L123 19l-4.6-7 3.3-5.1h.2c.4.4 1 .8 1.7.8s1.2-.4 1.5-.8h.2c-.1 2-1.5 3.2-2.5 3.2s-1.5-.5-2.1-.8l-.3.5 5 7.4 1-.6v.1zm-11-.5l-1.3 1 .2.2.6-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.2-.2-.8.5-1-1V.8h-.1l-3.6 2.4v.2c.4.2 1 .3 1 1.5v11.3zM143 2.9c0-2-1.9-2.5-3.4-2.5v.3c.9 0 1.6.3 1.6 1 0 .4-.3 1-1.2 1-.7 0-2.2-.4-3.3-.8-1.3-.4-2.5-.8-3.5-.8-2 0-3.4 1.5-3.4 3.2 0 1.5 1.1 2 1.5 2.2l.1-.2c-.3-.2-.6-.4-.6-1 0-.4.4-1.1 1.4-1.1.9 0 2.1.4 3.7.9 1.4.4 2.9.7 3.7.8V9l-1.5 1.3v.1l1.5 1.3V16c-.8.5-1.7.6-2.5.6-1.5 0-2.8-.4-3.9-1.6l4.1-2V6l-5 2.2c.5-1.3 1.6-2.2 2.6-2.9l-.1-.2c-3 .8-5.7 3.5-5.7 6.9 0 4 3.3 7 7 7 4 0 6.6-3.2 6.6-6.5h-.2c-.6 1.3-1.5 2.5-2.6 3.1v-4.1l1.6-1.3v-.1L140 8.8v-3c1.5 0 3-1 3-2.9zm-8.7 11l-1.2.6c-.7-.9-1.1-2.1-1.1-3.8 0-.7.1-1.5.3-2.1l2.1-.9-.1 6.2zm12.2-12h-.1l-2 1.7v.1l1.7 1.9h.2l2-1.7v-.1l-1.8-1.9zm3 14.8l-.8.5-1-1V9.3l1-.7-.2-.2-.7.6-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .2.3.7-.5.9 1.1v6.5l-1.3 1 .1.2.7-.5 2.2 2 3-2-.1-.3zm16.7-.1l-.7.5-1.1-1V9.3l1-.8-.2-.2-.8.7-2.3-2.1-3 2.1-2.3-2.1L154 9l-1.8-2.1-2.9 2 .1.3.7-.5 1 1.1v6.5l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.9-.6 1.5 1.4v6l-.8.8 2.3 1.9 2.2-2-.9-.9V9.3l.8-.5 1.6 1.4v6l-.7.7 2.3 2.1 3.1-2.1v-.3zm8.7-1.5l-2.5 1.9-2.5-2v-1.2l4.7-3.2v-.1l-2.4-3.6-5.2 2.8v6.8l3.5 2.5 4.5-3.6-.1-.3zm-5-1.7V8.5l.2-.1 2.2 3.5-2.4 1.5zm14.1-.9l-1.9-1.5c1.3-1.1 1.8-2.6 1.8-3.6v-.6h-.2c-.2.5-.6 1-1.4 1-.8 0-1.3-.4-1.8-1L176 9.3v3.6l1.7 1.3c-1.7 1.5-2 2.5-2 3.3 0 1 .5 1.7 1.3 2l.1-.2c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.4-.8 0-.3.4-.8 1.2-.8 1 0 1.6.7 1.9 1l4.3-2.6v-3.6h-.1zm-1.1-3c-.7 1.2-2.2 2.4-3.1 3l-1.1-.9V8.1c.4 1 1.5 1.8 2.6 1.8.7 0 1.1-.1 1.6-.4zm-1.7 8c-.5-1.1-1.7-1.9-2.9-1.9-.3 0-1.1 0-1.9.5.5-.8 1.8-2.2 3.5-3.2l1.2 1 .1 3.6z">
</path>
</svg>
</a>
</span>
</div>
<span class="css-1n6z4y">
https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html
</span>
<div class="css-tvohiw">
<div aria-label="Social Media Share buttons, Save button, and Comments Panel with current comment count" data-testid="share-tools" role="toolbar">
<div class="css-4skfbu">
<ul class="css-1sirvy4">
<li class="css-9eyi4s">
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="unlockShareTooltip" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="" class="css-q1aqo6" type="button">
<span class="gift-article-button css-1dtsvfy">
<svg height="19" viewbox="0 0 19 19" width="19">
<path d="M18.04 5.293h-2.725c.286-.34.493-.74.606-1.17a2.875 2.875 0 0 0-.333-2.322A2.906 2.906 0 0 0 13.64.48a3.31 3.31 0 0 0-2.372.464 3.775 3.775 0 0 0-1.534 2.483l-.141.797-.142-.847A3.745 3.745 0 0 0 7.927.923 3.31 3.31 0 0 0 5.555.459 2.907 2.907 0 0 0 3.607 1.78a2.877 2.877 0 0 0-.333 2.321c.117.429.324.828.606 1.171H1.155a.767.767 0 0 0-.757.757v3.674a.767.767 0 0 0 .757.757h.424v7.53A1.01 1.01 0 0 0 2.588 19h14.13a1.01 1.01 0 0 0 1.01-.959v-7.56h.424a.758.758 0 0 0 .757-.757V6.05a.759.759 0 0 0-.868-.757Zm-7.196-1.625a2.665 2.665 0 0 1 1.01-1.736 2.24 2.24 0 0 1 1.574-.313 1.817 1.817 0 0 1 1.211.818 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202 1.453 2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838 1.191h-3.431l.272-1.413ZM4.576 2.386a1.837 1.837 0 0 1 1.221-.817 2.23 2.23 0 0 1 1.565.313 2.624 2.624 0 0 1 1.01 1.736l.242 1.453H5.182a2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838-1.19 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202-1.495h.03ZM1.548 6.424h7.54V9.39h-7.58l.04-2.967Zm1.181 4.128h6.359v7.287H2.729v-7.287Zm13.777 7.287h-6.348v-7.307h6.348v7.307Zm1.181-8.468h-7.53V6.404h7.53V9.37Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
Give this article
</span>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v">
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="More sharing options ..." class="css-1uhsiac" type="button">
<svg class="css-4wep0k" height="18" viewbox="0 0 23 18" width="23">
<path d="M1.357 17.192a.663.663 0 0 1-.642-.81c1.82-7.955 6.197-12.068 12.331-11.68V1.127a.779.779 0 0 1 .42-.653.726.726 0 0 1 .78.106l8.195 6.986a.81.81 0 0 1 .253.557.82.82 0 0 1-.263.547l-8.196 6.955a.83.83 0 0 1-.779.105.747.747 0 0 1-.42-.663V11.29c-8.418-.905-10.974 5.177-11.08 5.45a.662.662 0 0 1-.6.453Zm10.048-7.26a16.37 16.37 0 0 1 2.314.158.81.81 0 0 1 .642.726v3.02l6.702-5.682-6.702-5.692v2.883a.767.767 0 0 1-.242.536.747.747 0 0 1-.547.18c-4.808-.537-8.364 1.85-10.448 6.922a11.679 11.679 0 0 1 8.28-3.093v.042Z" fill="#000" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v save-button">
<button aria-checked="false" aria-label="Save article for reading later..." class="css-18um6j6" disabled="" role="switch" type="button">
<svg class="css-swbuts" height="18" viewbox="0 0 12 18" width="12">
<g fill="none" fill-rule="nonzero" stroke="#666">
<path d="M1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268z" fill="none">
</path>
<path d="m12 18-5.9-4.756L0 17.98V1.014C0 .745.095.487.265.297.435.107.664 0 .904 0h10.192c.24 0 .47.107.64.297.169.19.264.448.264.717V18ZM1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268H1.158Z" fill="#121212">
</path>
</g>
</svg>
</button>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v commentAdjustClass">
<span class="">
<div class="css-jyqt2x">
<svg class="css-2urdiw" height="18" viewbox="0 0 21 18" width="21">
<path d="m14.52 17.831-5.715-4.545H2.4a1.468 1.468 0 0 1-1.468-1.469V1.894A1.471 1.471 0 0 1 2.4.405h16.583a1.469 1.469 0 0 1 1.469 1.469v9.923a1.469 1.469 0 0 1-1.47 1.47H14.58l-.06 4.564ZM2.4 1.645a.228.228 0 0 0-.228.229v9.923a.228.228 0 0 0 .228.229h6.811l4.06 3.235v-3.235h5.652a.228.228 0 0 0 .229-.229V1.874a.228.228 0 0 0-.229-.229H2.4Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
<span class="css-1dtr3u3">
<a href="/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html">
68
</a>
</span>
</div>
</span>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<article class="css-1vxca1d e1lmdhsb0" id="story">
<div class="css-13pd83m">
</div>
<div class="css-z1t82k" id="top-wrapper">
<div class="css-l9onyx" id="top-slug">
<p>
Advertisement
</p>
</div>
<a class="css-1ly73wi" href="#after-top">
Continue reading the main story
</a>
<div class="ad top-wrapper css-rfqw0c">
<div class="place-ad" data-position="top" data-size-key="top" id="top">
</div>
</div>
<div id="after-top">
</div>
</div>
<header class="css-ky4dag e12qa4dv0">
<div class="css-1hyfx7x" id="sponsor-wrapper">
<div class="css-19vbshk" id="sponsor-slug">
<p>
Supported by
</p>
</div>
<a class="css-1ly73wi" href="#after-sponsor">
Continue reading the main story
</a>
<div class="ad sponsor-wrapper css-rfqw0c" id="sponsor">
</div>
<div id="after-sponsor">
</div>
</div>
<p class="css-c2jxua e6idgb70">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="/column/restaurant-review" title="Restaurant Review">
Restaurant Review
</a>
</p>
<div class="css-1vkm6nb ehdk2mb0">
<h1 class="css-139djpt e1h9rw200" data-testid="headline" id="link-79212452">
Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish
</h1>
</div>
<div aria-label="Social Media Share buttons, Save button, and Comments Panel with current comment count" data-testid="share-tools" role="toolbar">
<div class="css-1wa6gzb">
<ul class="css-1sirvy4">
<li class="css-9eyi4s">
<div aria-hidden="true" aria-labelledby="dialogMessage" class="css-1k1icib" id="unlockShareTooltip" role="tooltip" tabindex="0">
<div class="css-n3eewq">
<p class="css-1gxs0ky">
<strong>
Send any friend a story
</strong>
</p>
<p class="css-1wo2tr0" id="dialogMessage">
As a subscriber, you have
<strong class="css-8qgvsz ebyp5n10">
10 gift articles
</strong>
to give each month. Anyone can read what you share.
</p>
</div>
<button aria-label="close sharing tooltip" type="button">
<svg class="" stroke="#000" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-width="1.5" style="opacity:0.95" viewbox="0 0 12 12">
<line x1="11" x2="1" y1="1" y2="11">
</line>
<line x1="1" x2="11" y1="1" y2="11">
</line>
</svg>
</button>
<div class="css-1w38vn7">
<div class="css-1n60tr3">
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="unlockShareTooltip" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="" class="css-q1aqo6" type="button">
<span class="gift-article-button css-1dtsvfy">
<svg height="19" viewbox="0 0 19 19" width="19">
<path d="M18.04 5.293h-2.725c.286-.34.493-.74.606-1.17a2.875 2.875 0 0 0-.333-2.322A2.906 2.906 0 0 0 13.64.48a3.31 3.31 0 0 0-2.372.464 3.775 3.775 0 0 0-1.534 2.483l-.141.797-.142-.847A3.745 3.745 0 0 0 7.927.923 3.31 3.31 0 0 0 5.555.459 2.907 2.907 0 0 0 3.607 1.78a2.877 2.877 0 0 0-.333 2.321c.117.429.324.828.606 1.171H1.155a.767.767 0 0 0-.757.757v3.674a.767.767 0 0 0 .757.757h.424v7.53A1.01 1.01 0 0 0 2.588 19h14.13a1.01 1.01 0 0 0 1.01-.959v-7.56h.424a.758.758 0 0 0 .757-.757V6.05a.759.759 0 0 0-.868-.757Zm-7.196-1.625a2.665 2.665 0 0 1 1.01-1.736 2.24 2.24 0 0 1 1.574-.313 1.817 1.817 0 0 1 1.211.818 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202 1.453 2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838 1.191h-3.431l.272-1.413ZM4.576 2.386a1.837 1.837 0 0 1 1.221-.817 2.23 2.23 0 0 1 1.565.313 2.624 2.624 0 0 1 1.01 1.736l.242 1.453H5.182a2.2 2.2 0 0 1-.838-1.19 1.857 1.857 0 0 1 .202-1.495h.03ZM1.548 6.424h7.54V9.39h-7.58l.04-2.967Zm1.181 4.128h6.359v7.287H2.729v-7.287Zm13.777 7.287h-6.348v-7.307h6.348v7.307Zm1.181-8.468h-7.53V6.404h7.53V9.37Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
Give this article
</span>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v">
<div class="css-vxcmzt">
<div class="css-113xjf1">
<button aria-describedby="" aria-expanded="false" aria-haspopup="true" aria-label="More sharing options ..." class="css-1uhsiac" type="button">
<svg class="css-4wep0k" height="18" viewbox="0 0 23 18" width="23">
<path d="M1.357 17.192a.663.663 0 0 1-.642-.81c1.82-7.955 6.197-12.068 12.331-11.68V1.127a.779.779 0 0 1 .42-.653.726.726 0 0 1 .78.106l8.195 6.986a.81.81 0 0 1 .253.557.82.82 0 0 1-.263.547l-8.196 6.955a.83.83 0 0 1-.779.105.747.747 0 0 1-.42-.663V11.29c-8.418-.905-10.974 5.177-11.08 5.45a.662.662 0 0 1-.6.453Zm10.048-7.26a16.37 16.37 0 0 1 2.314.158.81.81 0 0 1 .642.726v3.02l6.702-5.682-6.702-5.692v2.883a.767.767 0 0 1-.242.536.747.747 0 0 1-.547.18c-4.808-.537-8.364 1.85-10.448 6.922a11.679 11.679 0 0 1 8.28-3.093v.042Z" fill="#000" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
</button>
</div>
</div>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v save-button">
<button aria-checked="false" aria-label="Save article for reading later..." class="css-18um6j6" disabled="" role="switch" type="button">
<svg class="css-swbuts" height="18" viewbox="0 0 12 18" width="12">
<g fill="none" fill-rule="nonzero" stroke="#666">
<path d="M1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268z" fill="none">
</path>
<path d="m12 18-5.9-4.756L0 17.98V1.014C0 .745.095.487.265.297.435.107.664 0 .904 0h10.192c.24 0 .47.107.64.297.169.19.264.448.264.717V18ZM1.157 1.268v14.288l4.96-3.813 4.753 3.843V1.268H1.158Z" fill="#121212">
</path>
</g>
</svg>
</button>
</li>
<li class="css-1xlo06v commentAdjustClass">
<span class="">
<div class="css-jyqt2x">
<svg class="css-2urdiw" height="18" viewbox="0 0 21 18" width="21">
<path d="m14.52 17.831-5.715-4.545H2.4a1.468 1.468 0 0 1-1.468-1.469V1.894A1.471 1.471 0 0 1 2.4.405h16.583a1.469 1.469 0 0 1 1.469 1.469v9.923a1.469 1.469 0 0 1-1.47 1.47H14.58l-.06 4.564ZM2.4 1.645a.228.228 0 0 0-.228.229v9.923a.228.228 0 0 0 .228.229h6.811l4.06 3.235v-3.235h5.652a.228.228 0 0 0 .229-.229V1.874a.228.228 0 0 0-.229-.229H2.4Z" fill="#121212" fill-rule="nonzero">
</path>
</svg>
<span class="css-1dtr3u3">
<a href="/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html">
68
</a>
</span>
</div>
</span>
</li>
<li class="css-fb7l6r">
<button class="css-11jlzyd" data-testid="getstarted-magic-link" type="button">
Read in app
</button>
<form action="https://nytimes.app.goo.gl/?link=https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html&apn=com.nytimes.android&amv=9837&ibi=com.nytimes.NYTimes&isi=284862083" data-testid="MagicLinkForm" method="post" style="visibility:hidden">
<input name="client_id" type="hidden" value="web.fwk.vi"/>
<input name="redirect_uri" type="hidden" value="https://nytimes.app.goo.gl/?link=https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/16/dining/niche-review-mazemen.html&apn=com.nytimes.android&amv=9837&ibi=com.nytimes.NYTimes&isi=284862083"/>
<input name="response_type" type="hidden" value="code"/>
<input name="state" type="hidden" value="no-state"/>
<input name="scope" type="hidden" value="default"/>
</form>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<div class="sizeMedium layoutHorizontal css-ref0xf ewenx681">
<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2019/04/16/dining/niche-mazemen-ramen.html">
<div class="css-5nx6oe">
<h2 class="css-9kcu5u">
A New Kind of Noodle Shop
</h2>
<div class="css-1xhl2m">
<p class="css-1e85yo">
</p>
<p class="css-1e85yo">
10 Photos
</p>
<p class="css-1e85yo">
View Slide Show
<span class="css-t4350i">
›
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-79elbk">
<div class="css-hyytny">
</div>
<figure aria-label="media" class="sizeMedium layoutHorizontal ewenx680 css-1pv2nfg" role="group">
<div class="css-bsn42l">
<img alt="" class="css-rq4mmj" decoding="async" height="400" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4/12HUNGRY-slide-V6I4-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 2048w" width="600"/>
</div>
<figcaption class="css-13o4bnb e1maroi60">
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</a>
<div class="css-13o4bnb efyb8hk0">
<span class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Daniel Krieger for The New York Times
</span>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-170u9t6">
<div class="css-1c4e8vg" data-testid="restaurant-review-header">
<div class="css-83hgbf">
<dl>
<dt>
Niche
</dt>
<dd class="css-up6b8e">
<i>
</i>
<span>
NYT Critic's Pick
</span>
</dd>
<dd>
<span class="css-z4hz5">
★
</span>
</dd>
<dd class="cuisines">
Japanese
</dd>
<dd>
$$
</dd>
<dd class="address">
<span>
172 Delancey Street
</span>
</dd>
<dd>
</dd>
</dl>
</div>
<aside>
<a class="css-13m361n" href="tel:+">
Call
</a>
</aside>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-xt80pu eakwutd0" data-testid="byline-timestamp">
<div class="css-sklrp3">
<div class="css-1e2jphy epjyd6m1">
<div class="css-233int epjyd6m0">
<p class="css-aknsld e1jsehar1">
<span class="byline-prefix">
By
</span>
<span class="css-1baulvz last-byline" itemprop="name">
<a class="css-mrorfa e1jsehar0" href="https://www.nytimes.com/by/pete-wells">
Pete Wells
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
<ul class="css-1u1psjv epjyd6m3">
<li class="css-ccw2r3 epjyd6m2">
<time class="css-129k401 e16638kd0" datetime="2019-04-16T11:17:38-04:00">
April 16, 2019
</time>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</header>
<section class="meteredContent css-1r7ky0e" name="articleBody">
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
In 2012 and 2013, when people were lining up at Smorgasburg and then on the second floor of the Houston Street Whole Foods Market for biodegradable bowls of Yuji Haraguchi’s mazemen — noodles that might be dressed with crisped twigs of bacon and a jiggling onsen egg, say, or yuzu-cured salmon and some Camembert soft enough to transform into a sauce — I was sure the crowds would multiply and fan out, demanding more of this strange brothless ramen.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
And they did, in a sense. Soon Mr. Haraguchi had established his own free-standing establishment,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.okonomibk.com/yuji-ramen" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Yuji Ramen
</a>
in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where he serves that bacon-and-egg mazemen along with his possibly visionary “tunakotsu” ramen. In 2014, when Ivan Orkin
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/06/dining/restaurant-review-ivan-ramen.html" title="">
came to New York
</a>
, he brought along his own mazemen recipes. Over the next few years mazemen turned up in other restaurants, too, but all of them remained better known for soup ramen, and sold more of it. It began to look as if mazemen would never be more than a sideshow act, the one-armed ax-catcher of the ramen circus.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Then at the start of the year, the chef Shigetoshi Nakamura, who operates an
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.nakamuranyc.com/menu" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
intimate ramen shop
</a>
on the Lower East Side, opened an annex next door that is dedicated to mazemen. All the seating at this new place,
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://www.nakamuranyc.com/niche" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Niche
</a>
, is at a dozen or so stools arranged around one long, narrow table. When the dining room is fully occupied, the only way to get from one end to the other is to walk sideways while holding your breath and picking up all the coats that you are going to knock off their wall pegs as you go.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Not that there is much reason to roam around. Orders are taken from and delivered to the table, and there is no public restroom on the premises. As is the case next door at Nakamura, seats by the window offer a close-up view of the stone walls that support the last few yards of the Williamsburg Bridge before it empties onto Delancey Street.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
<div class="css-79elbk" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper">
<div class="css-z3e15g" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper-hidden">
</div>
<div class="css-1a48zt4 e11si9ry5" data-testid="photoviewer-children">
<figure aria-label="media" class="img-sz-medium css-1l3p632 e1g7ppur0" role="group">
<div class="css-1xdhyk6 erfvjey0">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Image
</span>
<img alt="Stools and a communal table take up most of the dining room." class="css-r3fift" decoding="async" height="400" sizes="((min-width: 600px) and (max-width: 1004px)) 84vw, (min-width: 1005px) 60vw, 100vw" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche1/16rest-niche1-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale" srcset="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche1/16rest-niche1-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 600w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche1/16rest-niche1-jumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 1024w,https://static01.nyt.com/images/2019/04/17/dining/16rest-niche1/16rest-niche1-superJumbo.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp 2048w" width="600"/>
</div>
<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
Stools and a communal table take up most of the dining room.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Daniel Krieger for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Before he came to New York, Mr. Nakamura was already well known in Tokyo, where he proved to have a theatrical streak. Before filling a bowl with noodles, he would
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7_BzdiZ5pk" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
yank them from the boiling water
</a>
with his left hand and then hold them high in the air for a few seconds, letting them drain while standing completely motionless. Suddenly he would drop his arm and the basket would plunge toward the water again, before stopping just in time and getting one quick, emphatic shake. When Mr. Nakamura was
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://japanhk.blogspot.com/2005/06/ramen-devas-ramen-enlightenment.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
immortalized as one of four “ramen gods”
</a>
in a set of Hello Kitty notepads and phone straps, Kitty was posed with her left paw raised high in emulation of the Nakamura Shake.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
If Mr. Nakamura has been practicing his choreography on the spaghetti-like, crinkly noodles at Niche, I haven’t seen it yet. The Nakamura Shake seems designed to extract cooking water as quickly as possible before the noodles cool, and temperature is not especially critical in mazemen.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The idea of noodle soup without the soup has been on the loose in Japan for decades. Broth is the most expensive and labor-intensive part of a bowl of ramen; in the 1950s, a Tokyo noodle shop, in the pitiless logic of the restaurant business, began omitting the broth when ladling out noodles at staff meals, or so the story goes. This “abura soba” — oil noodle, because it was moistened with lard along with the seasoning sauce called tare — wasn’t half bad, so it went on the menu at a discounted price. As an even cheaper version of an already cheap and filling meal, abura soba was quickly embraced, especially by students.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
As food ideas tend to do in Japan, it evolved rapidly. Today, abura soba tends to refer to dry soups that have more or less the same toppings you’d find in a bowl of normal ramen, while mazemen generally has toppings that are rarely seen in soup and often would not respond well to being submerged in hot liquid.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
There is Italian-style mazemen, with anchovies, salami, olives and tomatoes. Some mazemen shops specialize in fried beef cutlets. At a Tokyo restaurant called
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="http://beefst.com/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Beefst
</a>
, the centerpiece of each bowl is sliced roast beef, served rare.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Mr. Nakamura has an answer to that: steak mazemen. The steak is rib-eye, in cubes that have been browned with a kitchen torch. When you stir them with the noodles and a smooth, creamy spoonful of something the menu simply calls “pork sauce,” their juices and flecks of char flavor the whole bowl. Plain spinach and fermented bamboo, meanwhile, keep the total effect from being queasy-making. Novel, straightforward, refined, unruly and impure of heart, steak mazemen has the makings of a classic New York dish.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
<div class="css-79elbk" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper">
<div class="css-z3e15g" data-testid="photoviewer-wrapper-hidden">
</div>
<div class="css-1a48zt4 e11si9ry5" data-testid="photoviewer-children">
<figure aria-label="media" class="img-sz-medium css-1l3p632 e1g7ppur0" role="group">
<div class="css-1xdhyk6 erfvjey0">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Image
</span>
<div class="css-zjzyr8" data-testid="lazy-image">
<div data-testid="lazyimage-container" style="height:257.77777777777777px">
</div>
</div>
</div>
<figcaption class="css-1l44abu ewdxa0s0">
<span aria-hidden="true" class="css-16f3y1r e13ogyst0">
In the Russ & Roe mazemen, smoked salmon and roe over ramen noodles, the new Lower East Side bows to the old.
</span>
<span class="css-cnj6d5 e1z0qqy90">
<span class="css-1ly73wi e1tej78p0">
Credit...
</span>
<span>
Daniel Krieger for The New York Times
</span>
</span>
</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
So does the duck, a common special. A sliced breast of moulard duck cooked to a deep violet-pink, it is served with a bright, focused sauce built on soy and enough warm duck juices to lubricate the whole-wheat noodles. It is not an austere dish by any means, but it is balanced and restrained.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
The same cannot be said for another special that is always offered on the same nights: a bowl of liquefied foie gras topped with pistachios and truffle oil. It is not clear what will happen to anyone who tries to eat this with a spoon, but the prognosis does not seem good. Instead, everybody orders it with the duck mazemen and dips the noodles into the foie gras, after which conscious thought tends to stop for a minute or two. When cerebral activity resumes, you might wonder why the sauce doesn’t come with its own noodles.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
No other mazemen is such a joy ride, but the vaguely Italian one with tomatoes, mushrooms, kombu and an angry red soak of chile oil is not the kind of thing you want to turn your back on. Even the tribute to
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/03/t-magazine/russ-and-daughters-new-york-history.html" title="">
Russ & Daughters
</a>
, where the noodles are coated with spicy cod roe and the topping is sliced smoked salmon, can sneak up on you.
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Niche is one of the few ramen-yas in town where the appetizers are worth noticing. Sea urchin perched on tiny corners of toast is a strange and awkward affair, but the sardines on toast, dressed with chile flakes, are very good, as are the raw scallops with yuzu juice and the avocado salad showered with tempura flakes.
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div class="css-s99gbd StoryBodyCompanionColumn">
<div class="css-53u6y8">
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
Should fries be an appetizer? Maybe not, particularly Niche’s “umami kombu fries,” which have been sprinkled with powdered shio kombu until they are almost subliminally green. Apart from the color, they look like the fries at McDonald’s. The difference is that the shio kombu makes them almost diabolically hard to stop eating. And if you don’t eat them before the mazemen arrives, then when will you?
</p>
<p class="css-g5piaz evys1bk0">
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
Follow
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://twitter.com/nytfood" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
NYT Food on Twitter
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
and
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.instagram.com/nytcooking/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
NYT Cooking on Instagram
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
,
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.facebook.com/nytcooking/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Facebook
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
and
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.pinterest.com/nytcooking/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" title="">
Pinterest
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
.
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
<a class="css-1g7m0tk" href="https://www.nytimes.com/newsletters/cooking" title="">
Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice
</a>
</em>
<em class="css-2fg4z9 e1gzwzxm0">
.
</em>
</p>
</div>
<aside aria-label="companion column" class="css-ew4tgv">
</aside>
</div>
</section>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="css-2fttua" id="bottom-wrapper">
<div class="css-l9onyx" id="bottom-slug">
<p>
Advertisement
</p>
</div>
<a class="css-1ly73wi" href="#after-bottom">
Continue reading the main story
</a>
<div class="ad bottom-wrapper css-rfqw0c" id="bottom" style="min-height:90px">
</div>
<div id="after-bottom">
</div>
</div>
</div>
</article>
</div>
</main>
<div>
</div>
<footer class="css-1e1s8k7" role="contentinfo">
<nav class="css-15uy5yv" data-testid="footer">
<h2 class="css-1dv1kvn">
Site Information Navigation
</h2>
<ul class="css-1ho5u4o edvi3so0">
<li data-testid="copyright">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115014792127-Copyright-notice">
©
<span>
2022
</span>
<span>
The New York Times Company
</span>
</a>
</li>
</ul>
<ul class="css-13o0c9t edvi3so1">
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytco.com/">
NYTCo
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115015385887-Contact-Us">
Contact Us
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115015727108-Accessibility">
Accessibility
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytco.com/careers/">
Work with us
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://nytmediakit.com/">
Advertise
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.tbrandstudio.com/">
T Brand Studio
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/privacy/cookie-policy#how-do-i-manage-trackers">
Your Ad Choices
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/privacy/privacy-policy">
Privacy Policy
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115014893428-Terms-of-service">
Terms of Service
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://help.nytimes.com/hc/en-us/articles/115014893968-Terms-of-sale">
Terms of Sale
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="/sitemap/">
Site Map
</a>
</li>
<li class="mobileOnly css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/ca/?action=click&region=Footer&pgtype=Homepage">
Canada
</a>
</li>
<li class="mobileOnly css-a7htku edvi3so2">
<a class="css-jq1cx6" data-testid="footer-link" href="https://www.nytimes.com/international/?action=click&region=Footer&pgtype=Homepage">
International
</a>
</li>
<li class="css-a7htku edvi3so2">